FOSTER HANDBOOK
Vancouver Orphan Kitten Rescue Association
VOKRA
Updated November, 2013
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Welcome to Fostering! ............................................................................................................................... 4
Meet your VOKRA Support Team ............................................................................................................... 5
Taking a Break ......................................................................................................................................... 5
Preparing to Foster ..................................................................................................................................... 6
Join our Facebook groups ....................................................................................................................... 6
Access the Foster Website ...................................................................................................................... 6
Mixing VOKRA kitties with your cat(s)..................................................................................................... 6
Kitty-proof your home ............................................................................................................................ 7
Checklist .................................................................................................................................................. 8
The Kitties are Coming, the Kitties are Coming! ......................................................................................... 8
Picking up Kitties ..................................................................................................................................... 9
Your foster kitty’s “passport” .................................................................................................................. 9
Supplies................................................................................................................................................... 9
Medications .......................................................................................................................................... 10
Where to keep your foster kittie(s) ....................................................................................................... 10
Can I name my foster kittens? .............................................................................................................. 10
Checklist ................................................................................................................................................ 11
Care of foster cats ..................................................................................................................................... 11
Your responsibilities.............................................................................................................................. 11
Collars ................................................................................................................................................... 11
Training good behaviour ....................................................................................................................... 12
How much should my kitty eat?............................................................................................................ 12
Litter Box............................................................................................................................................... 12
Bedding ................................................................................................................................................. 13
Health Care ........................................................................................................................................... 13
Warning Signs of Illness ........................................................................................................................ 14
Pictures and Bios ................................................................................................................................... 15
Adoption process ...................................................................................................................................... 16
Adoption Application ............................................................................................................................ 16
How does the adoption process work? ................................................................................................. 16
Can I advertise my foster as well? ......................................................................................................... 17
VOKRA Adoption Events ....................................................................................................................... 19
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
2
Can I adopt my foster? .......................................................................................................................... 19
Retiring from Fostering ............................................................................................................................. 19
Special Circumstances ............................................................................................................................... 19
My Kitty’s Escaped ................................................................................................................................ 19
Pregnant Cats ........................................................................................................................................ 21
Bottle Feeding ....................................................................................................................................... 23
Feral Cats or Very Scared Kitties ........................................................................................................... 27
Draft – Foster Reference Guide ................................................................................................................ 28
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
3
Welcome to Fostering!
As a volunteer for VOKRA, we’d like to thank you for joining a large group of people dedicated to the
rescue of homeless cats and kittens in Vancouver. In 2012, we took in 1820 cats. Imagine 3 cats in
every seat in the Vancouver Playhouse! We adopted out 1345 to forever homes, and helped nearly 300
feral cats. This organization runs entirely on volunteer staff. As a “no kill” rescue, we believe that every
cat should have a chance. We rely entirely on donations, grants, and revenue from adoptions to support
VOKRA.
You are joining a network of over 250 foster homes in the Lower Mainland. Thank you! The care and
love that our cats receive with you means that they will go to their forever home healthy, well socialized
and happy. This is a gift of life for these kitties.
While your foster kitties are with you, we encourage you to make them part of the family – it’s practice
for their forever home.
When you agree to take on a foster kitty, we cannot guarantee the length of time you will have with
kitties in your care, as each case is different. Older kitties sometimes take longer to adopt. Kittens are
available for adoption at 8 weeks of age and may go immediately or be with you for a longer period,
depending on the time of year. The kittens must be fully litter trained, with no accidents, before they
can be adopted.
VOKRA supplies all the supplies, litter, equipment, toys and medical care for the foster kitties. This is for
two reasons:
So that we control the quality of care that they are getting, and
To ensure that foster kitties are not a burden to their foster family
Some fosters would like to contribute to the cost of care for their fosters. We suggest a monthly
tax deductible donation through CanadaHelps. Please remember, scratching posts, toys, blankets, etc.
VOKRA receives by donation. Anything you or your friends and family can donate is appreciated.
Thank you so much for opening your home to foster cats. We hope you enjoy the experience and will
want to do it all over again! If you would like to be more involved with VOKRA, we are always looking
for more volunteers to do driving or phone work, help at fundraisers, update our database, etc. Contact
your foster coordinator for opportunities.
Thanks again from your entire Foster Care team
Michele Carrington
Director, Foster Care
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
4
Meet your VOKRA Support Team
In the course of fostering, you will interact with a number of volunteers with specialized roles. We are
all volunteers, so please respond promptly to any requests. Here’s who you are likely to encounter:
Role
Foster Coordinator
What this person means to you
First point of contact for all questions
Manages the placement of foster kitties in your home
Assigned Emergency Contact
You will be assigned an emergency contact based on the city that
you live in.
Will visit your home to give your foster kitties their vaccines at 12
weeks
Will contact you to set up viewings for your foster kitty
If you’ve asked for delivery of supplies, you will meet some of our
volunteer drivers
Audits the health entries in the database and ensure that your foster
kitties are vaccinated, de-flead, de-wormed and either spayed or
neutered once they are 5 months old
Contact point for bios and photos if your foster kitties have been
with us for a while
Vaccine team
Adoptions team
Drivers
Health coordinator
Database manager
In all cases except medical emergencies, your first point of contact should be your foster coordinator.
With the growth that VOKRA has experienced recently, we need to triage calls to make best use of our
volunteer resources.
Taking a Break
Summer is an extremely busy time for us. If you are planning a holiday, please let your foster
coordinator know the dates as soon as you can. For short periods of time, it might be easier for us to
come into your home to care for the kittens on a daily basis. Do not leave foster kitties to be cared for
by friends or neighbors without first clearing it with us and giving your foster coordinator their contact
information. For longer holidays, we may transfer the kitties to another foster home.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
5
Preparing to Foster
Join our Facebook groups
To keep informed on what’s going on:
1. Please “like” the main VOKRA Facebook page
(https://www.facebook.com/groups/154920484540931/#!/VOKRA), and
2. Join the appropriate facebook group
If you are in….
Vancouver, Burnaby, New
Westminster, North Vancouver,
West Vancouver,
Surrey, White Rock, Delta, Mission,
Aldergrove, Langley
Anywhere – and just want some
light hearted cat stories
Join this Facebook Group
VOKRA Foster Parents’ Group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/154920484540931/
VOKRA Surrey Fosters and Volunteers
https://www.facebook.com/groups/surreytnr/
VOKRA Fun & Chit Chat
https://www.facebook.com/groups/154920484540931/#!/?sk=nf
Access the Foster Website
A key support tool for our fosters is the new Foster Website or
http://vokrafosterhandbook.weebly.com/. The password is vokrafoster2013
We have invested a lot of time to collect information onto this website to support you in making the
fostering process easier. Please check the website first for any questions you might have, then if you
don’t find the answer there, ask your foster coordinator.
Mixing VOKRA kitties with your cat(s)
VOKRA must advise you against mixing your cat with foster kitties. The background and health of
the VOKRA cat/kitten(s) is not known. VOKRA cats are not tested for Feline Infectious Peritonitis,
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus, Feline Leukemia, or any other condition, illness or disease. They
do, however, receive FVRCP vaccine (for Chlamydia, Calici, and Rhinotracheitis) if over the age of
10-12 weeks, and are treated for medical conditions as they arise. If you decide that you would like
to mix your cats, then you must do so with full understanding of the risks involved. Please advise
your foster co-ordinator if you are mixing kitties. Remember, this is your cat’s home and sometimes
they do not like to share.
As part of the foster onboarding process, you will have been asked to sign a Liability Waiver. Please read
it carefully. It is for both yours and our protection. VOKRA is not responsible for any costs that may
occur if your cat gets ill during mixing of kitties. That includes medication and vet costs.
Keep your foster kitties from eating your own cat’s food, even if it’s the same food.
Bacteria is spread through sharing litter boxes, food, and water dishes.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
6
Clay clumping litter and crystal litter are very dangerous for all cats and kittens, as they will become very
ill if the litter is ingested. Please do not use this litter around VOKRA foster kitties.
Kitty-proof your home
Young, lively kittens can be a big danger to themselves. To be safe, kittens should never have the run
of the house unsupervised. Confine them to a small room at night or when you are not at home.
***This is also important for consistent litter training***
If blocking a door or a corner of a room, make sure the barrier is secure and cannot be tipped over.
Some older kitties that are scared should also not be left alone and are safer in a bathroom when no one
is home. These kitties may find places to hide or escape when left unattended. Also, stress can cause
accidents. Be safe and leave them in a safe room until you return.




View your Home from a Kitty's Eyes
o First, take a good look around your home. Try to see it from a playful kitten or even a fullygrown cat's view. Go on, get down on the floor! You’ll be amazed what you see that’s
different.
Don’t underestimate a kitty
o Kitties can wriggle into spaces so small that you would swear they have to break the law of
physics. Look for any holes, even in cupboards, and be sure they are SECURELY blocked. VOKRA
kitties have been known to crawl under fridges and dishwashers, down heating vents (after
prying them up), up into ceilings, up chimneys, down holes under a sink (pipes leading to a
vanity), into air conditioning vents, etc. Never under-estimate the curiosity of a kitty! Cats
can also jump 5 times their own height due to specialized muscles and bones in the cat’s
hind legs. So think about counters, any holes that may be above upper cupboards, etc. It’s
guaranteed that your kitty will find any hole that exists.
Remove other hazards
o Electrical cords look like snakes or worms through an intrigued cat's eyes. Your kitty does
not know anything about electrical current, and can’t tell whether something is plugged inor
not. Tie up loose wires, purchase cord-hiding containers, or tuck wires behind furniture and
make sure kitty can't venture behind.
o Blinds and other draperies are a huge temptation and danger to curious little paws and
mouths.
Houseplants
o See the list of dangerous houseplants on the VOKRA website at
http://www.orphankittenrescue.com/plants_toxic_to_cats_1
o

We recently lost a kitty that ate cut flowers, so please be extra-careful when bringing
bouquets into the home.
o It is best to keep kitties away from all plants so they do not become a litter box. Another
trick is to cover the potting soil with tin foil or rocks. A dangling fern is an invitation to play,
with potentially disastrous results, so please try not to have any plants within reach.
Small items that can be swallowed
o Even a paperclip can be the source of endless amusement for a cat, but it could be fatal if
ingested. Rubber bands or hair elastics are particular chewy favourites, but can do serious
harm to the kitty’s digestive tract. If you’re kitty-proofing your bathroom, make sure the
dental floss is put away from kitty thieves.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
7

Secure furniture
o You think we’re kidding, don’t you? Don’t we wish. We have seen kitties tip over
bookshelves, bring curtain rods down, knock paintings off the walls, etc. They can injure
themselves critically or fatally by dragging table cloths and subsequent heavy centerpieces onto
themselves or each other. Secure everything. Think like you have a curious 2 year old in the


house!
Screen your windows
o All windows must have secure screens on them if you plan to open the windows! There
will be plans available on the foster website soon for making your own screens. Some cats
are just desperate to get outside and will swing on your screens, attempt to push them
open, eat a hole through your screen or squeeze out through impossibly narrow spaces.
Screening your windows is especially important if you live in a high-rise. Cats do not have a
sense of danger and will throw themselves out a window to follow a bird. As perverse as it
sounds, kitties can do more harm to themselves by jumping out a 3rd storey window than
jumping out a 12th floor window. The highest recorded “kitty skydive” is 32 storeys. The
kitty sustained minor, minor injuries. However, let’s just not let them have that
opportunity! Never leave kitties alone when windows are open, and this includes those
with screens. If you have a very quick, sneaky kitty, post a note on the windowswill
reminding family to be alert when entering or exiting.
Never, never allow your foster kitties onto a balcony or outside space at any time unless it is
securely enclosed. Contact your foster coordinator for suggestions, if you want to build a safe cat
enclosure. If a cat gets out, call VOKRA IMMEDIATELY! See the section on “If your cat gets out” for
tips on how to get it back quickly.
Checklist
You should have…
Joined the appropriate FaceBook groups
Accessed the Foster website
Signed the Liability Waiver form
Prepared your home for kittens!
The Kitties are Coming, the Kitties are Coming!
During your foster application and interview, you indicated your preference for the type of cat you’d like
to foster (kittens, pregnant moms, etc). Your foster coordinator does their best to match you with a
kitty that reflects your desires and your experience. While the thought of bottle-feeding kittens is very
romantic, it’s a special skill. And unless you’re willing to get up every two hours for weeks on end, feed
the kitties and then (ahem) help them excrete, it might not be for you. We also are trapping an
increased number of lost and abandoned tame street cats. They are usually with us for a while as we
work with them to get them back into health. Can you consider opening your heart to one (or two) of
them?
We always want you to be happy with the kitties that you foster, so provide feedback at any time to
your foster coordinator.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
8
Picking up Kitties
Foster kitties may be coming from a number of locations – one of our intake centres, a vet, or another
foster home. If you are unable to pick up, then a driver can be arranged, but volunteer driving resources
are scarce, so the more self-sufficient you can be in terms of kitty transport and supply pickup, the
smoother it is for everyone. Some of our fosters post in the appropriate Facebook group to ask for help;
another foster may volunteer to assist.
Your foster kitty’s “passport”
You will be given an “intake form” when receiving your kittie(s). This form is to record all
medical information on each kitty: worming dates, tattoo number, spay/neuter date, vets,
medical information and medications. It is your responsibility to make sure all medications and vaccines
are entered on the form and that the information is also emailed to [email protected]. This form goes
with kittie(s) to foster homes until adoption. Please return the intake sheet to your foster coordinator as
a permanent record of care.
Keep this very important form in the plastic envelope supplied. Attach the envelope to the transport
kennel for easy reference and to ensure it moves with the kitty. Our phone numbers for emergencies
are on the form. If you do not have this form when you receive your kittie(s) then notify your foster coordinator immediately.
Supplies
All food, litter, and litter boxes that you need will be supplied. They are the property of VOKRA.
Never change food or litter without consulting your foster coordinator
Supplies (food and litter) are available at several locations around the Lower Mainland. If you need
delivery, let us know well in advance. If at all possible, please be self-sufficient in terms of
transportation. Volunteer driving resources are challenging to schedule. Friends, family or other fosters
can assist. Some of our foster parents post in the appropriate Facebook group seeking assistance and it
is usually offered.
Food
We spend a large percentage of our annual budget on quality food for our kitties - $120,000 in 2012.
Each flat costs us around $25. To predict our consumption, we are going to be introducing an ordering
system for fosters to reserve food. Details of the process and the order form will be on the foster
website. Please order only 2 weeks worth of food at a time.
VOKRA purchases supplies at wholesale prices, so please do not make your own purchases from a retail
shop unless you have permission from one of us to do so. If food must be purchased, then be sure this
is Wellness or FirstMate, available at Bosleys, Tisol, or Petfood ’n’ More.
Under no circumstances, unless under the direction of VOKRA, should you feed your kittie(s) dry food.
This include treats. Through years of experience, we know that dry food will cause urinary infections,
crystals, and obesity. This is the number one problem VOKRA experiences with their kitties. Special
foods are sometimes used to help kitties with some of these medical issues. Please follow instructions
carefully. Raw food can be used under special circumstances. We keep small amounts of a number of
foods on hand to handle these special cases.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
9
If you run out of food or litter, you can purchase (with authorization from your foster coordinator) a
small amount of the SAME food or litter, for which you will be reimbursed, so please keep the receipts.
Litter
For litter we use pine pellets, which can be purchased at Rona hardware store. A bag of pine pellets (40
pounds) will typically last a loooooooooong time.
Clumping litter is deadly to kittens (and none too good for adult cats) as it can be easily ingested and will
turn into a rock-hard substance in their intestinal tracts and can cause death. If your own cat uses this,
please be sure the kittens do not use it. Silica crystals are also very dangerous.
Feline Fresh clumping pine litter may be approved by a VOKRA representative. We also keep small
quantities of other litters – such as Swheat scoop and Cat Attract for special circumstances. Your foster
coordinator will help you if you need to use anything other than pine pellets.
Medications
Depending on the age and condition of your kitty, you may also get worming and flea medications.
Check with your foster coordinator if medication is required and confirm instructions on how to apply it.
Where to keep your foster kittie(s)
When you first get your kittie(s), keep them in a small, secured area, like a bathroom, until you are
confident they are litter trained and socialized. This includes older kitties. Some scared or younger
kitties should be kept in the bathroom or a secure room while the foster is away from the home. They
should only be let out when under supervision.
You may gradually allow more space as they get more familiar with the area. If kittie(s) hide or have an
accident outside the litter box, please contact your foster coodinator and be sure to return the kitten to
the small space immediately. Urine Off or Nature’s Miracle must be used to clean up pee or poop, as the
cats can smell it and return to the same spot.
Watch for “accidents” in areas behind furniture or on laundry. Kitties love feather comforters. We do
not recommend rooms with beds that kitties can hide under or pee on. Peeing on furniture and
comforters is the most common problem for kitties being turned in to shelters. Please make sure you
follow instructions and notify your foster coordinator immediately of any problems.
Please let us know if your kitty is hiding. We will advise you on what to do. Sometimes a trap is
required if a kitty will not come out.
Can I name my foster kittens?
Yes, we would like you to name any kittens born with you, but all names must be positive. Do not use
names such as Scaredy, Cougar, Killer, Shadow etc. It has been shown that pets live up to their names
and we want only positive thoughts going to these guys when they are called.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
10
Our fosters have had fun recently with “theme” names for a litter – wines, Star Trek, First Nations name.
Be creative! We want to have only one cat with a name in our database at any given time, so please
review the list of names that have been already used. The list is on the foster website as well as a file
on the FB groups.
Please do not change the name once you settled on something and have informed VOKRA. Renaming
cats in our database creates havoc! Names and positive descriptions on the site are very helpful in
finding adoptive homes. The adopters may not keep the name you give but that first name is important!
If we send you to the vet, you must give the cat code of that kitten or cat, as well as its VOKRA name
and name you have called it.
Update the intake sheet with the kitty’s name and ensure that your foster co-ordinator is aware of your
foster name to record in our data base.
Checklist
You should have…
The foster kitty or kitties
Intake sheets for each foster kitty – very important!
Supplies – food and litter for two weeks
Cat collar marked with “Indoor Cat” and VOKRA’s phone number if the cat is a known escape
risk!
Litter box, toys, etc
Contact information for your foster coordinator
Care of foster cats
Your responsibilities
As fosters, we are asking you to care for the kitties and get them ready for adoption. To be adoptable,
they must be:




At least 8 weeks old
Have had all the appropriate shots for their age
Be completely litterbox trained, and
Have no bad habits
In addition to the normal care and feeding and loving, we ask you to take good pictures and write up a
bio for your kitties. This is your “sales pitch” for your kitty. Good pictures and an engaging bio are
often the differentiator for an adopter picking your foster over similar cats available.
Collars
Please ensure your foster cat wears a collar with INDOOR CAT and VOKRA’S phone number on it (604418-4008) if your kitty is a known escape risk. Please get the collar back to us when the cat is adopted
and stress to the adoptive family the importance of a collar. This is for older kittens and adult cats only;
kittens tend to get hung up on collars.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
11
Training good behaviour
It is very important for the kittens to learn good manners while at your home. Even if you don’t
mind scratching at carpets or furniture, the new home may not like those habits. Climbing up on
tables or counters must be discouraged, for the kittens as well as mom cats. If the kittens or mom
are displaying bad behavior, grasp them by the scruff of the neck gently, push down, and growl at
them loudly. Be persistent and use a spray bottle, if needed. Use a wand and toys to play with, not
hands. Do not allow them to bite or scratch. Absolutely no climbing up on your pant leg!
Please notify your foster coordinator right away if the there are any problems with litter training or
persistent bad
behavior.
Training good behavior is very important to the future of your foster cat. Problems with bad behavior
that cannot be controlled should be reported to your foster co-ordinator. This is one of the most
common reasons that kitties are returned and we must deal with any problems while they are in the
foster home.
How much should my kitty eat?
VOKRA supplies the food for your foster cat. Here’s an approximate expectation of what your foster
kitty should eat. If they want more, give it to them. If they are not eating at least this amount, notify
your foster coordinator
If your kitty is
Less than 6 weeks old
Then they should be eating….
They should be on mother’s milk or being bottlefed
6 weeks to 12 weeks
Typically a kitty at this stage will eat approximately
¼ can at each of 4 daily meals – so a total of a can
a day
12 weeks to 1 year
Depending on the kitty, somewhere between ½ to
1 can daily, spread over 4 meals
1 year and older
¼ can twice a day - so a total of half a can daily
Larger cats may eat more.
These are approximate guidelines that can be used to place your food order. Make sure to adjust up or
down for your kitty’s needs.
Transitioning Small Kittens onto Solid Food
At 4 to 5 weeks old baby kittens will start to be interested in their mother's food. By 5 weeks kittens
should be starting solid food and nursing less and less. You can help the little ones along by watering
down the mother's food a little or providing another low dish of mushy, watered down food. Some
kittens take longer to transition on to solid food. Contact your Foster Coordinator if you have any
concerns.
Litter Box
Scoop the litter box at least twice a day and wash 3 or 4 times per week or as needed. Clean the
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
12
area around the box to keep the cat’s feet clean of bacteria and infection.
Litter Training Kittens
Cats and kittens are generally easy to litter train and should be trained by 5 weeks of age. We provide
you with pine pellet litter. Clumping litter is extremely dangerous to kittens, please do not use it! Put
enough to fill the bottom of the litter box, scoop out the poops daily, and then change the whole litter
box to fresh litter whenever necessary, depending on the number of kittens.
To train small babies, provide a few low litter boxes (ask your Foster Coordinator to provide these) and
place a small amount of litter in each. If the kitten has an accident, wipe it up with a tissue and put the
tissue in the litter box, so the kitten knows where s/he should go. If the kittens are just learning and are
very tiny you can dampen the litter slightly to soften it. As bad litter habits are hard to break, the easiest
way to maintain good habits is to keep the kittens contained in a small area until they are having
absolutely no accidents. If you take them to a different area to play with them, be sure the litter box is
always handy. Blockading a corner so that kittens stay in and mom can hop in and out is great. Another
suggestion is putting up a barrier that mom can jump over at the bathroom door. A huge appliance box
with one side cut down a bit for mom also works.
Kittens' poop will change in colour and consistency as they transition onto solid food. Contact your
foster coordinator if you have any concerns.
Contact your foster coordinator immediately for advice if the kittens are having accidents. Kittens and
cats who soil outside of the box are the ones we have trouble placing or are returned to VOKRA...so
make sure they are not doing sneaky pees or poops under beds or other furniture.
Bedding
Provide clean bedding and a safe place for kittie(s) to sleep and feel secure. A separate room is best
while you are away from the home. A bathroom is preferred. Rooms with beds, especially those with
feather comforters, are not advisable.
Health Care
There are a few major milestones in health care for all our cats.
On an ongoing basis, keep an eye out for rough skin, missing patches of hair, diarrhea, runny eyes,
sneezing, fleas, grainy dirt in ears, etc. All are signs of illness that we need to address right away.
Treatment Milestones
5 weeks old
Flea treatments
 Kittens get ½ cc of Revolution once a week for a period of 2-3 weeks.
 Mom cats get 1 cc of Revolution once a week for a period of 2-3 weeks
Worming treatments
 Kittens get one kitten tab of Milbemax (pink) and then another kitten tab 15
days later
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
13

Adults get a red Milbemax (adult) tablet and then another 15 days later.
If you did not receive medication with your foster kit or have any questions, please
contact your foster coordinator.
12 weeks old
5 months
3 in 1 FVRCP vaccination
Request a visit from the vaccination team by using the form on the Foster Website. A
trained volunteer will come and administer the vaccination. This is a lot less stressful
for the cat. A quick shot, a treat, and we’re done…
The kitty should be spayed or neutered.
You will be asked to take the kitty in to one of our vets. The operation is usually same
day “in and out”. Expect that your kitty might be a little grumpy afterwards. A few
days of being safe at home, a little extra attention, and a few treats never hurt. If you
see any unusual behavior, such as lethargy or not eating, please contact your foster
coordinator immediately.
TIP: Female cats going into heat
It is our policy to get kitties fixed at 5 months unless the kitty has a health condition or
has just had kittens and we are waiting for her milk to dry up. Occasionally, cats with
kittens go into heat before we get the opportunity to have them spayed. Signs of this
are excessive affection, yowling, and elevating the rear quarters. Please contact your
foster coordinator immediately if you are concerned with any behavior, and be extra
careful about escape routes, as she will be extremely determined to get out.
Any medical treatments should be recorded on the intake sheet. Provide the information for us to
update the database by emailing the information to [email protected] and to your foster
coordinator. Before adoption, the information on this sheet should be double-checked to ensure that all
health records are up to date.
Warning Signs of Illness
We are experienced at caring and treating the various illnesses that cats and kittens can get. Please
watch your kittens carefully for any of the signs below. They can become seriously ill quickly if not
treated right away. An ounce of prevention definitely applies.
Please DO NOT administer any medication or flea treatment except what VOKRA gives you. Some
commercial brands on the market have been known to have fatal effects.
*** You MUST receive authorization prior to taking a kitty to the vet as this may be something we can
handle in-house. If an animal requires veterinary care you will be given the vet info for one we use
closest to your home.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
14
What to watch for
If you have any health concerns regarding the care of your fosters, please contact your foster
coordinator first, or if urgent, an emergency contact. If your foster cat is getting sick and may need to
see a vet, PLEASE contact your assigned emergency number before closing time at the vet offices or
before a long weekend or holiday, when the vets may be closed.













Lethargy (especially in a once active kitten) - A drop of corn syrup on the tongue can sometimes
bring a kitten out of this so please keep a little on hand. Follow that up with a bit of protein, as
lack of energy could be a sign of low blood sugar. Adult cats can also show lack of energy when
ill. Please notify your foster coordinator immediately
Stinky/runny poop - Many cats come to us on poor diets or from scavenging outside, they often
have stinky or soft stools when transitioning on to our good food. This is normal and can be
treated with pumpkin, probiotics and homeopathic remedies. Consult with your foster
coordinator if your cat or kitten has any diarrhea. Stinky/runny poop can also be due to worms,
or to Coccidia in kittens and cats that had been living outside and drinking from puddles. Even if
kittens are nursing, the mom passes it on to them. All poop is stinky, but if Coccidia is present
the smell can clear the room! Contact us right away if this is happening. We will give medication
right away that should start clearing it up in one to two days. Clean the litter box often and
thoroughly.
Loss of appetite or energy
o This is very important, as a cat should never go more than a day without eating. If you
notice this, it is urgent you contact us at once. It is, however, very common for a new cat
or kitten to not eat its first day in your home. This is nothing to panic about. Try putting
a bit of tuna juice on their food to make it more appealing, but don’t try any other food
than what we’ve suggested.
Drinking excessive amounts of water
Sneezing
Gummy eyes
Ear mites (coffee ground-like substance visible inside the ear)
Constant scratching
Residual fleas
Worms: thin thread-like worms in feces or rice–shaped deposits around the anus.
Constipation or bloating (hard tummy)
Diarrhea
Rough spots on skin or missing patches of fur
Pictures and Bios
While a cat is in your care, they may be in either “available” – meaning they are ready for adoption - or
in “coming soon” – meaning that they do not yet meet all the criteria of being adoptable. As soon as
you get your foster kitty, you should either create a new bio with pictures (if it doesn’t exist) or update
their bio and pictures.
Pictures and bios should be submitted via the forms on the foster website. The database team will
adjust photos as necessary, and may re-write portions of the bio. Based on the information you send in,
symbols indicating whether or not the cats would be good with children, should be adopted with a
buddy, etc will be assigned.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
15
A handbook on writing bios is under development and will be posted on the Foster website.
Information Package
You need photos and a writeup for your kitty


Photos => Send in 4–5 digital photos of your kittens around 6 weeks of age or as soon as your
kitty arrives. Try to get an individual, close-up head shot and a couple of the whole body. Action
shots, sleeping, etc. are just as important as posed shots. Please do not crop the pictures, as
the person putting pictures on our site will make any necessary adjustments. No pictures taken
outside! If you have a mom cat, please take a picture of her alone and with the kitten she hangs
around with most (preferably a male). If you don’t have a digital camera, or can’t borrow one,
please let your foster coordinator know. Pictures are very important in having kittens adopted.
Writeup => The biography should describe the cat’s personality and any recommendations
(e.g., quiet, other cats ok, dogs ok, kids ok), and ensure you identify which cat/kitten each
description is referring to. We will then put them up on our “Kittens for Adoption” or “Cats for
Adoption” page on our website. A questionnaire can be sent to help you answer these
questions.
If your kitty is already on the website then check their profile for updating. New pictures as kitties
grow are very important. They grow very quickly and this makes a difference when getting adopted. For
older cats, it may be necessary to complete rewrite the bio and have new pictures taken. A “makeover”
for older kitties has been shown to be very successful.
Adoption process
One of the most frequent things we are asked is: how can you give them up? It is not easy, but it’s
impossible to keep them all and we need you to take care of more kittens for us, as it seems to be a
never-ending stream. Is it sad? You bet! But you can take satisfaction in knowing that if it weren’t
for you, these kittens would have met a terrible end instead of going off to a safe, loving home.
(Keep the Kleenex box handy!)
Adoption Application
It is not up to you to find homes for the kittens, but if you know of someone who would like to adopt,
please have them fill out an application on-line mentioning which kitty and who is fostering it.
(http://www.orphankittenrescue.com/adoption_application ) (NO, they cannot phone us!!)
Applicants are screened, but it is a phone interview, so we count on you to let us know whether this is a
suitable person. Never, ever promise a cat or kitten to any of your friends and family. They must first fill
out the application and be approved to adopt – and we may have a waiting list. We adopt in strict order
of application date. Remind them that the kittens go to indoor homes only. By leaving this part up to
our Adoption team you stay out of it and any bad feelings if we turn them down.
How does the adoption process work?
All people wanting to adopt from us must fill out an application on-line. Adoption applicants are
interviewed by a VOKRA adoptions team member to narrow down exactly the kind of kitty they want –
temperament, whether or not it is a buddy for another cat, etc. Fosters wanting to adopt their kitties
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
16
must also apply as adopters, and should submit an application as soon as possible. We cannot give
fosters priority over other adopters.
1. An email will be sent to you to notify you that someone would like to view your
kitty. REMEMBER: you cannot adopt your foster kitty at this stage, adopters are given priority
according to date of application.
2. You arrange with the potential adopter for a mutually convenient time.
3. You host the potential adopter for a “play date” where the adopter can be introduced to the
kitty and decide whether or not they want to adopt. If your foster is a mom and kittens, then
please remind the adopter that kittens only go as a pair or to a buddy. No single kittens unless
approved by our Adoptions team due to special circumstances, eg: a stay at home parent and
kids to keep the kitten company.
4. If we send you someone who wants to adopt and you feel it is not the right match, tell them
they need to think about it and get back to you the next day. Email the adoption counselor and
your Foster Coordinator right away and let us know what is wrong. We always give our fosters'
opinions serious consideration, but you must have a reason for refusing an adopter. We cannot
refuse someone based on personal preferences. We will take your concerns up with the adopter
and try to resolve any issues you may have.
5. If you feel good about the match, then ask the person viewing if they plan to adopt. After the
kitties have been viewed, then the adopter must fill out the adoption contract and pay the
adoption fee. This will be arranged by the adoption counselor. We have people to do “papers”
all over the Lower Mainland, so we will arrange something convenient for the adopter. Adopters
cannot reserve kitties and must do papers within a couple of days or the kitties will go back to
being viewable by other potential adopters.
6. Once the “papers” have been done, you will be contacted by the adopter to make arrangements
to pick up the cat. Do not release a kitten unless you see the adoption papers or are authorized
by your foster coordinator or adoptions team member. Kittens must go in a proper carrier. Do
not allow a kitten to go home in a cardboard container. When the adopter phones to arrange
pick-up, please remind them of this. Kennels and boxes, plus food and litter are the property of
VOKRA and must be returned to us after fostering. Do not give any of these items to an adopter
unless you are specifically instructed. Be sure the adopter has purchased the appropriate
canned food and pine litter before picking up the Kitty. Only if instructed can you give one can of
food and a small bag of litter.
7. Notify your foster co-ordinator of your immediate plans. If you are going to dive right into
fostering again – terrific! But if you are taking a break, please ensure that your foster coordinator knows.
If you have any questions during the adoption process, please call your foster coordinator or the
adoption counselor.
Can I advertise my foster as well?
If you would like to put posters up about your kittens, please do so. We have a pre-approved template
that can be used for inspiration – see below. A soft copy in editable format is posted on the Foster
website.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
17
Please include:
 That the cats must go to indoor homes only,
 That there is an adoption fee,
 A brief description of the home they would do best in (e.g., no kids, good with dogs, etc.).
 Make sure the kittens’ names and your first name are on the poster.
Our website www.vokra.ca should be clearly marked on the poster as well as our name. The message
line (604)731-2913 can be used but please do not put your or any of our personal phone numbers down.
People will be told to fill in an application on-line and state which kitten or foster home is involved.
Posters should go up at vets, churches, work place, local pet stores, community centers, etc. We need all
the help we can get to have the word out on our kittens/cats.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
18
VOKRA Adoption Events
Periodically we hold special events to promote adoptions in pet stores, fairs, or other venues. Just
before the event, the foster coordinators will send out a call for adoptable kitties that would be okay in
a busy, noisy environment. Some kitties aren’t suitable, but the ones that are will be hugged and
smooched for a few hours that day. All you need to do is bring your kitty to the event at the appropriate
time. Everything else – setup, supplies, volunteers – will all be arranged by the events team. If you are
interested in participating, that would be great. Talk up your kitty and see if you can get him or her
adopted!
Can I adopt my foster?
If you think you are ready for this big commitment, then you must also go through the normal adoption
steps. Fill out an application to adopt and the adoption team will contact you to arrange for the
signature of the adoption contract. Make sure your foster coordinator knows immediately so your kitty
can be taken off the website. You have 5 days to sign the contract and call the kitty your own. Fosters do
not get a reduced rate as the adoption fee is needed to offset the costs of spay/neuter, vaccinations and
supplies while in our care. Remember to return all VOKRA property or pay our reduced purchase price
when signing the contract.
Retiring from Fostering
Want to take a break from fostering? No problem! Thank you for the kitties that you’ve helped.
Here’s what you need to do:
Inform your foster coordinator. She will “de-activate” you in the database.
Return all food, litter boxes, toys, etc. We will use them for other kitties.
All supplies should be returned to VOKRA if you have adopted or are no longer able to foster.
These supplies are available for purchase at a cost of $25.00 for the transport kennel and $10.00
for the litter box.
And if you change your mind and want to foster again, then email [email protected].
Special Circumstances
My Kitty’s Escaped
If your kitty somehow escapes, CALL YOUR ASSIGNED EMERGENCY NUMBER IMMEDIATELY. What you
do in the hours immediately after the escape will impact our chances of getting the kitty back
unharmed.
1. Don't depend on other people to find your cat for you, or for it to wander home itself.
You have to get out there and search yourself --- the first 48 hours are critical, so take time off
work if you have to. Get your partner or a friend to help you so you can cover more territory
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
19
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
faster. If you don't find your cat quickly, the search can take hundreds of hours later, so consider
this time spent as an investment.
Leave a dish of dry food and water out close to your building, and monitor/change it once a day.
If you can, leave it's litter box outside along with an unwashed article of your clothing, or
sprinkle some litter discretely around the bushes on your property.
Search close to home, especially if your cat was an indoor-only cat. This means stay tight to your
block, across the street and across the lane. If your cat was an indoor-outdoor cat, expand your
search to a 4-5 block range. Look for crawl spaces, garages, sheds, under decks and balconies
and any sheltered spot a cat can get into. Meaning there's a space 4-5" high. Even after you've
searched likely places once, return to them repeatedly. (We had searched the spot where Tasia,
a recent escapee, was hiding a few times, and visited it repeatedly. It was only by being there
often that we saw her one day by accident.)
Put up lots of neighbourhood posters on your block, and radiating out 1 block in all directions.
(4-6 blocks for indoor-outdoor cats) protected in plastic from the elements. Include a photo
(colour is best), cats' name, where & when lost (date & cross streets), brief identifying
decription, and a phone number where you can be reached 24/7. Make sure you are available
24/7 to respond to calls.
Follow up on every lead, to see if the cat the person called you about is your cat. Start by
hanging around where the cat was seen, and asking neighbours if they know if a cat meeting the
description given, lives there. This is the "process of elimination" --- if the cat described lives
there, it's not your cat, but if you can find nothing about it or cannot find it yourself, include the
location on your list of search places. After awhile, you'll know which cats belong where, and
you won't have to go out on every call, because you'll know by experience that the cat the
person is calling about is probably not yours.
Search mostly after dark and at dawn, especially if you have limited time. 11:00 PM through
2:00 AM is prime time for lost cats to come out, as is just before sunrise. Use daylight hours for
sussing out likely hiding spots, getting familiar with what looks safe to a cat, postering, and for
talking to neighbours.
Once you locate your cat's hiding place, arrange to get access to the property or space through
its owner or tenant. Rent or borrow a humane trap to capture it - through VOKRA or
Petsearchers. Even the most friendly cat will be wary after a few days outdoors and may not
respond to you at all. It has learned that silence keeps it safe. A humane trap baited with tuna is
the quickest, easiest and safest way to capture it. Once set, stay close by and monitor the trap at
least every 2 hours. Prepare yourself by learning how to safely release an "accidental capture;"
call Animal Control if you've accidentally captured a skunk or raccoon.
Above all, don't give up --- your foster is depending on you to bring it home!
Don't be persuaded that a coyote or raccoon got your foster, unless you find physical or eyewitness evidence of that.
Don't assume someone else took it in --- that very rarely happens. Do check with the SPCA and
Animal Control every couple of weeks, as well as on Craigslist daily.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
20
Pregnant Cats
If we have placed a pregnant cat with you, we will give you as much information as we can on the
anticipated birth date of the litter, but it is very difficult to determine, so at best it is a guess.
Signs of Labour:
 Excessive neediness, wanting to be massaged
 Restlessness
 Pulling things from drawers etc. to make bed: nesting
 Leaking nipples
 Vaginal discharge, any colour
 Compulsive cleaning of vaginal area
 Either large appetite or none at all
The birthing process may go on for many hours, so set yourself up to be comfortable if you plan to
share this experience with the mom. The first and sometimes the second kittens often come quickly,
with a substantial wait after that. As each cat is a little different, please respect her “wishes” regarding
company at this time. Do not allow the whole family in the room if mom appears anxious and tries to
hide from the crowd. Usually she is happy with one person to provide comfort and massage. Do not
have any other animals in the room.
Some cats, especially first-time moms, panic a bit after the first births and will sometimes try to run. This
is why we encourage your presence during early delivery to keep mom calm. Speak softly to her and
massage her.
If at any time you feel the cat is pushing without results for too long, please don’t hesitate to contact
your foster coordinator.
If labour goes on more than 5 hours, please call your assigned emergency contact anytime you are
worried. If you think labor is starting, please call during the day to give a heads up.
Things to have on hand:
 Small sterile scissors (just boil them)
 Olive oil or KY Jelly
 Lots of old towels, sheets or cloths
 Pedialyte, unflavored
 Small feeding syringe
 Latex gloves
 Have a couple of “momma beds (nests)” prepared for her to choose
o Get the low-front boxes at Costco. Fold a large towel and place it into a pillowcase.
 Rescue Remedy
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
21
During the birth
 Encourage her to use her “momma bed” box. This low-front box will keep the kittens corralled
but enable the mom to move in and out easily.
 Be sure the litter box is very near the nest as she will be reluctant to travel far from her babies at
this time.
 Offer mom mushy food and water as she is lying in the nest (mix clear Pedialyte or warm water
in with food, or syringe into her mouth straight). Encourage her to stay put with the new kittens.
Use a little Rescue Remedy, if you have it, on the head and ears of the mom cat and try to keep
her still with gentle massage and soothing words.
 Placenta and umbilical cord
o A placenta should follow each kitten. The mom will digest these. If she leaves one, you
can dispose of it.
o As each kitten is born, keep note that the placenta is delivered each time as a retained
placenta can cause serious infection. If in the days following the birth mom loses her
appetite, shows signs of fever or you feel her breast tissue (not nipples) is hardened or
very warm, call your foster coordinator or assigned emergency contact immediately.
o Never pull the kitten or the placenta as it is coming out. The mother will bite the cord
about an inch from the kitten’s belly. The only time we cut the cord is if mom is anxious
and the cord is tight with little clearance between the kitten and the birth canal.
o If you can’t calm down the mom while waiting for the placenta to come out, you may
pinch the cord hard with your forefinger and thumbnail about an inch from the kitten
(this is the important end), and then again another inch further. Cut carefully in
between the pinched areas. Immediately check that the cut cord on the kitten side is
not bleeding. If so, pinch it until bleeding stops.
 Helping the kittens breathe
o If the sac is off the kitten’s head, give the kitten to mom headfirst and have her clean it.
o It is very important that the nose is the first area to be cleaned, so the kitten can
breathe.
 Sometimes, mothers need to stand up and move around to deliver the next kitten. Pull the
delivered kittens into your lap and keep a warm towel standing by to keep them warm and
covered while mom is trudging around.
 Generally the mother cat keeps things pretty clean, but you may need to remove a layer of the
bedding if it gets particularly soiled. We like to have a large bath towel inside two pillowcases
open at opposite ends as the main bed. Layer a number of towels on top of that and as they are
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
22
soiled, pull them out from under mom and kittens. Once they are all born, a pillow case covered
towel is the best bed as kittens have very sharp nails that get caught up in toweling.
Things that can go wrong
 Mom not cleaning the kitten and removing the sac
o Clear it away from the kitten’s mouth and nose. Run your finger gently through the
mouth to insure it is clear. Place the kitten directly under the mother’s mouth. If she
does nothing and the kitten appears to be struggling, cut the cord (see above
instructions), clear the mouth and nose again, briskly rub the kitten’s body up and
down.
 Kitten not breathing
o Wrap the kitten in a small cloth, hold it securely in your hands face up with your fingers
locked securely behind its head and your thumbs crossed over its chest. Raise kitten
high over your head, its head up and “whoosh” it with a swinging motion toward the
floor, straight down, ensuring there is no furniture or impediment in the way. This is to
help clear the airway and stimulate breathing. Do this a couple of times and then rub
the kitten’s chest and back and check that it is breathing. If not you may next try
blowing wee puffs of air into the kitten’s nose and mouth, simultaneously for 3 breaths
and then tiny pumps on its chest for five compressions, then check again. Try this a few
times. If still not successful, try a drop of Rescue Remedy on the inside of the kitten’s
mouth and then repeat the above procedures. If you are not able to revive the kitten,
please do not blame yourself. It is likely an internal problem with the kitten and it
wouldn’t have survived anyway. WE CANNOT SAVE THEM ALL. If the mother is not
paying any attention to the kitten, quietly remove it from her line of sight. If she has
seen it, wait until she is distracted before taking it away.
 Kittens not nursing
o Particularly in long-haired cats, you may want to clean away some of the fur from the
nipple area to make feeding easier.
o Check kitten for cleft palate – a common birth defect that will affect the kitty’s ability to
ear.
In the event that the kitten dies, wrap the body in a bit of tissue or paper towel, put into a plastic bag
and store in the freezer so we can collect it for potential analysis or cremation. Please feel free to call
those of us on your contact list if you are feeling anxious or overwhelmed. We are here to help. Sadly,
about 20% of kittens die when very young, so while it is a tragic event, it is not uncommon.
Bottle Feeding
(Thank you, Franny Syufy, for these great instructions in “How to Bottle Feed a Newborn Kitten” on
about.com)
Occasionally, even kittens with moms need the supplement of a bottle. In the event that we are
bringing you orphaned kittens, we will go over the feeding procedures with you on site.
The best way to raise a litter of orphaned kittens is to keep them in a small, enclosed space (shut
bathroom or large kennel) for the first weeks.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
23
What you need:







Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR)
Nursing Bottles & Nipples
Soft towels
Coarse wash rag
Paper Towels
Kitchen Scale
Corn Syrup (for emergencies)
Instructions:

Prepare your supplies. Sterilize the kitten-sized baby bottles and nipples in a boiling water
bath for about 5 minutes. Cool before using. Place a large towel, a rough-textured washcloth
and a bowl of warm water on a table next to a comfortable chair.
TIP: Buy several bottles and nipples, then sterilize and fill a number of them at once,
and refrigerate. Warm as needed, following the directions above.

Fill bottle with desired amount of commercial kitten milk replacement such as KMR. Warm the
formula by placing the bottle in a bowl of very hot water, then test it against your forearm.
Never microwave the formula. It should be 95° to 100° F, or approximately body
temperature. Test the nipple to ensure the flow is just right (one drop at a time).

Sit in the chair with the towel folded in your lap. Place the kitten prone (face down) on
your lap. Never bottle-feed a kitten on its back like a human baby. Hold with one hand
under the belly with the head between your thumb and forefinger to steady the head. Think
of the kitten’s position when it is feeding from a mother cat and try to copy this as closely as
possible. It also helps to have them wrapped in a small, soft cloth ( “a kitten burrito”) to
prevent distraction and wriggling, and minimize mess.

If the kitten does not start nursing right away, or if he seems to have trouble getting the
milk, check the nipple again. It should not drip milk when held upside down, but should
drip given a small amount of pressure. Ensure the hole in the nipple is of sufficient size
(snip off a sliver only large enough to allow a drop of formula to come out when bottle is
turned upside down). Then, squeeze the bottle away from the kitten’s mouth just to get a
drop onto the end of the nipple to encourage feeding. It may also be helpful to stroke his
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
24
head or gently pet his back to start his nursing reflexes, but once he gets the idea, he will
nurse readily. Never squeeze the milk into the kitten’s mouth. If too much milk is going into
the kitten’s tiny mouth too quickly, aspiration can occur, causing death.

Much like human babies, kittens may need "burping" after nursing. This is best accomplished
by holding one hand under his abdomen and gently patting his upper back. Not too hard - you
don't want him to vomit. If he doesn't burp right away, go to step #7.

The mother cat will stimulate her kitten's elimination by licking his anus and genital area with
her rough tongue. You can emulate this process with a warm, damp, rough washcloth or
dampened paper towel. It may take a couple of feedings to see results, so don't despair if he
doesn't defecate right away. Urinating may take a bit longer.

Your kitten will want to sleep after nursing, so put him back into his bed to let him sleep
undisturbed.

Your newborn kitten will need approximately 32 cc (1.1 oz.) of formula a day, divided into 9 12 feedings a day, depending on his size and condition. Count on feeding him every two hours
or so, around the clock, for starters. Yes, it's a demanding job, but intensely rewarding to
watch your newborn develop and grow.
Never allow anyone to feed the kittens, especially children, without proper training.
Feeding Schedule
It’s a good idea to weigh the kittens every day and record their weights. They should be steadily
increasing. If not, call your foster coordinator.
When the kittens
are….
0-7 days old
1 – 3 weeks old
4 weeks old
Mix one measure of dry KMR to two measures of Pedialyte. They are fed
every 2 hours around the clock for the first week and a half. This can be
stretched out a little at night.
Use the Pedialyte clear for half of the wet mix when making formula.
If your kittens develop diarrhea, keep the bum rinsed with warm water and
use a zinc cream to sooth it. Contact your foster coordinator or your
assigned emergency contact ASAP.
Every 2 – 3 hours, with the longer interval as they grow a little older
You can start to encourage them to eat and drink on their own at 4 weeks of
age. Put a little bit of the food on your finger and let the kitten sniff the food.
You can put the food right in their mouth. Don’t worry if they don’t seem
interested at first, keep trying every time it is feeding time and they will
eventually eat. Small amounts of goat milk can be given, but no cow milk or
“kitty milk”.
Start to mix in goats’ milk in the formula. Just go gradually and see
how they react. We usually get the milk from Safeway in a carton; the
bottled ones are a bit too rich. For a few days use more and more goat and
less KMR. Then add a bit of chicken or beef baby food (the plain kind). This
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
25
gets their stomachs used to meat gently and goes through the bottle nipple
easily (keep the receipts for reimbursement).
Extra goat’s milk can be frozen in ice cube trays and defrosted for use at a
later date.
WARNING: When kittens first start to eat on their own, they can become
hypoglycemic very easily. THIS COMES ON VERY QUICKLY AND CAN RESULT
IN DEATH. Kittens with dehydration show lack of energy and no interest in
eating. Dehydration can be tested by pulling the skin on the back of neck up;
if it goes down very slowly, there is dehydration.
Keep a bottle of corn syrup handy. If you find a kitten flat or very sluggish,
put a drop or two of corn syrup in its mouth right away. Follow with some
water and contact your assigned emergency contact immediately.
Hypoglycemia can be avoided by closely monitoring the kittens when first
eating, to ensure that each one is getting a good amount of food at each
meal. Even if being fed by mom cats this can happen (cats can suddenly run
out of milk or have their milk go bad).
5 – 6 weeks
7 weeks
8 weeks
Start to offer a bit of Wellness canned food on your finger. Some
kittens catch on very quickly and dive in. Some stick to the bottle for a while
longer. Just try it each day until they get the idea. You can mix in goats’ milk
with the canned and that usually goes over well.
By now they should not be using a bottle, but eating gloppy mix off
a plate. They should have a meal 4 to 5 times a day.
You can bring down the number of feeds at this point, as their stomachs
can hold more. Likely 3 to 4 meals a day
Elimination
After every feeding it is vital that the kitten is helped to eliminate. The mother does this by stimulating
the genitals and anus through gentle licking. No, we do not ask that you do this. (You were worried,
weren’t you?).
Instead, have a bowl of warm water and tissues handy. After the kitten feeds, dip the tissue in the
water and very gently massage repeatedly from the stomach to the tail. Urine is easily produced but it
sometimes takes a bit more effort to encourage a bowel movement and it may not occur with every
feeding. If the stomach is tight or bloated or you just think the kitten is having a difficult time having a
movement, contact your foster coordinator. The kitten should have at least one good bowel movement
a day, so you may want to keep a chart if you have difficulty keeping track.
Once the kittens are moving around, they will naturally climb out of the nest to eliminate. When this
begins, divide the containment area to bedding on one end and one of our low litter boxes with
paper towels or pine pellets softened with a bit of water at the other. You may need to continue to
aid their elimination until you are confident they are consistently doing it on their own.
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
26
Keeping kittens warm
After kittens are fed, burped and relieved, all they need is sleep. Return them to their nest and
cover them with a blanket or towel to keep their bed warm and dark. Never use an electric heating
pad or blanket, as this can overheat the babies. We can provide a microwaveable warming device to be
placed under the blanket layers.
Feral Cats or Very Scared Kitties
VOKRA cats are assessed to see whether they have a future in a home or are better off in a barn or
back to their location (if they are safe and well fed). Some of our cats are very fearful and need
more specialized care to socialize.
This is a specialized area of fostering, but working with feral cats to “tame them up” can be incredibly
rewarding. One of our foster specialists has a entire process worked out for socialization. A recent
seminar was held on this topic and videotaped, so we should be able to provide some ongoing
education on the subject.
Basically, the main principles are:
 Every interaction with the kitty should be a positive experience, so if there’s fear or
apprehension, back off.
 Slow movements
 Low, soothing voices
 Gentle movements
 No aggressive actions (ie staring down at the kitty)
 Get down to the kitty’s level
When first brought into the home they may not be familiar with using a litter box. Sprinkle dirt or
leaves on top of the litter. Many scared kitties have only eaten small animals or very bad dry food
and will not take to eating our food at first.
Cats proceed from a small box with a litter box, food and toys to a larger taming cage. The taming cage
is set in the middle of the traffic pattern in the house so that the cats can see and hear everything that is
going on, but still have a place to hide. Gradually, more direct interaction is initiated.
From the taming cage, they go to the bathroom – a successively larger space. More toys are presented
to provide an enrichment experience.
Working with these kitties and getting them a new home is a very crucial part of what VOKRA does,
and is very rewarding. If you are interested in fostering these types of kitties then please notify your
foster co-ordinator. Check out our taming feral video for tips on our website at
http://www.orphankittenrescue.com/videos_and_kitty_cams
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
27
Draft – Foster Reference Guide
FOSTER PARENT
QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
Warning Signs of
Illness
 Lethargy (especially in a once
active kitten)
 Stinky/runny poop
 Loss of appetite or energy
 Drinking excessive amounts of
water
 Sneezing
 Gummy eyes
 Ear mites (coffee ground-like
substance visible inside the
ear)
 Constant scratching
 Residual fleas
 Worms: thin thread-like worms
in feces or rice–shaped
deposits around the anus.
 Constipation or bloating (hard
tummy)
 Diarrhea
 Rough spots on skin or missing
patches of fur
References
 Foster website
 http://vokrafosterhandbo
ok.weebly.com/.
 PW = vokrafoster2013
 The foster website has
 Vaccination request form
 Food pickup request form
 Pictures and bios are sent to
[email protected]
 Any non-urgent questions can be
sent to [email protected]
 VOKRA website is www.vokra.ca
CALL YOUR ASSIGNED EMERGENCY
CONTACT IMMEDIATELY IF
 Your kitty shows one of the
warning signs of serious illness, OR
 If you are worried and can’t get
hold of your foster coordinator
My Assigned Emergency Contact
_______________________
My Foster Coordinator
__________________________
Phone: ____________________
Email: _____________________
My Food and Litter Pickup
Location (every two weeks)
___________________________
VOKRA FOSTER HANDBOOK
November 2013
28