Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine
• Doña Ana & Luna Counties
• U.S. Department of Agriculture
• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences
Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office
530 North Church Street, Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
MG Program Administrator: Jeff Anderson
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Magazines can be downloaded at the NMSU Website @ Link:
http://aces.nmsu.edu/county/donaana/mastergardener/monthlymagazines.html
& the Luna County Website @ Link:
http://www.lunacountynm.us
ŸOCTOBER 2016Ÿ
Beginning our 8th Year of Providing
Gardening-Related Information & News
CONTENTS:
• Plant-of-the-Month: Cholla Cactus
• Water-Wise Plant-of-the-Month:
Beargrass
…Other Species & Cultivars
• Tropical Plants: Anthurium
• Small Space Garden Ideas
• How To Plant New Roses in Fall
• Basics of Light, Soil Type & Soil pH
...Testing Soil Types
...Adjusting Soil pH
• Oldest Trees on Earth?
• Perennial Vegetables (Book) 15 Veggies You
PLANT-OF-THE-MONTH
Page
1-5
Cholla Cactus
6
6
7-8
http://www.desertusa.com/cactus/chollacactus.html
Source: Desert USA @ Link:
9
10
11-13
12
12
13
14
Plant Once & Harvest Forever
• Top Six Gardening Apps (Gardening App)
(Info on #1 and #2 apps)
• Honey-Do List for October 2016
• October 2016 MG Birthdays
• NMSU Plant Diagnostic Clinic
• October Event Schedule
14
15-16
17
17
17
• Sunflowers Sway To Sun’s Rhythm
• How Sunflowers Follow the Sun
18-19
19-20
INSECTS & BEES
• Native Bees in Backyard
• Attract Pollinators All Season
20-21
22
• Small Yuccas Enhance Any Garden Style 23-24
WILDLIFE
• Stopping Cats in the Garden
25
FRUIT, VEGGIES & HERBS
• Fruits & (Nuts) for New Mexico Orchards 26-29
U.S.D.A. INVASIVE PLANTS:
• Texas Blueweed (Nelianthus cillaris)
30
RANGELAND TREES & SHRUBS:
… True Mountain Mahogany
… Yucca
31
31
• MG Monthly Meeting Minutes
• MG Hotline Duty Information
Vol. 17, Issue 10
32-33
33
Cholla Cactus represents more
than 20 species of the Opuntia genus
(Family: Cactacea) in North American
deserts. Cholla is a term applied to
various shrubby cacti of this genus
with cylindrical stems composed of
segmented joints.
These stems are actually modified branches that serve several functions—water
storage, photosynthesis and flower production.
Like most cactus, Chollas have tubercles—small, wart-like projections on the stems—
from which sharp spines—actually modified leaves—grow. But Chollas are the only cactus
with papery sheaths covering their spines. These sheaths are often bright and colorful,
providing the cactus with its distinctive appearance.
Prickly Pears are also members of the Opuntia genus, but their branches are
manifested as pads rather than cylindrical joints. Opuntia are unique because of their
clusters of fine, tiny, barbed spines called glochids. Found just above the cluster of regular
spines, glochids are yellow or red in color and detach easily from the pads or stems.
Glochids are often difficult to see and more difficult to remove, once lodged in the skin.
Range & Habitat
Cholla Cactus are found in all of the hot deserts of the American Southwest, with
different species having adapted to different locale and elevation ranges. Most require
coarse, well-drained soil in dry, rocky flats or slopes. Some have adapted to mountain
forests, while others require steep, rocky slopes in mountain foothills.
Article Continues on Page 2
Master Gardener Hotline Contact Data
(August 27 through September 27, 2016)
# Total Contacts
24
# Total Issues Addressed 57
Ethnicity of Contacts
Hispanic Females
1
Hispanic Males
2
Non-Hispanic Females 14
Non-Hispanic Males
6
Asian Female or Male
0
Black/African Male
1
Geographic Area
Las Cruces
17
Anthony
1
Mesilla Park
1
Mesquite
1
Silver City
1
T or C
1
Palm Springs, CA 1
Subject of Inquiry
Animals
2 Irrigation
Disease
9 Lawns
Fertilizer
3 Shrubs
Flowers
2 Soil
General Info 1 Trees
Herbicides 3 Veggies
Insecticides 5 Weeds
Insects
7 Misc.*
4
0
0
0
14
2
3
2
(*hail damage (1), law on pruning at property line (1)
Thank you to Certified Master Gardener Laurie Davidson for collecting this data.
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 2
Cholla Cactus—Continued from Front Page
CANE CHOLLA
Description
Most Cholla Cactus have orange or greenish-yellow flowers with a
variety of colors, even among the same species. Most species bloom
April through June, depending on local conditions. Stems and joints
vary in width, length, shape, and color, as well as in the profusion of
spines and glochids. Chollas may appear as ground creepers, shrubs
or trees, varying in height from less than a foot (Club or Devil Cholla)
to as much as 15 feet (Chain-Fruit Cholla).
Opuntia spinosior
Grows from desert floors to grasslands to lower mountain slopes,
developing a thick trunk and with purple jointed joints.
Desert:
Chihuahuan Desert of Southern Arizona and
Southwestern New Mexico
Height:
Up to 8 feet
Joints:
Thick, tubercled, covered with gray spines
Flowers: From deep purple to yellow and white
Fruit:
Flesh, spineless, yellow in winter
Elevation: 2,000-7,000 feet
Information on the species below is based on wild, non-cultivated
samples.
BUCKHORN CHOLLA / MAJOR CHOLLA /
YELLOW-FLOWERED CANE CACTUS
Opuntia acanthocarpa
This light green Cholla is widespread, appearing in different
locales. Spine sheaths are inconspicuous and light colored.
Five variations include Acanthocarpa, Coloradensis, Gander,
Major and Thornberi.
Desert:
Sonoran Desert
Height:
3-10 feet
Joints:
Long & straggly
Flowers:
Bright yellow, orange, pink or red
Fruit:
Spiny & dry
Elevation: 500-4,000 feet
CHAIN-FRUIT CHOLLA
/ CHAIN CHOLLA / JUMPING CHOLLA
Opuntia fulgida
The largest of the Chollas, up to 15 feet tall, is a very spiny cactus, usually
a shrub, but sometimes more like a tree. New fruits are added to those from
previous seasons, creating a chain up to 2 feet long—hence the name "chain
fruit."
Desert:
Sonoran Desert of Central and South Arizona and
Northwest Mexico
Height:
Up to 15 feet
Joints:
Small, oblong, yellow-green with short, colored spines
Flowers: White and pink petals streaked with lavender
Fruit:
1 1/2 inch green, spineless, pear-shaped berries grow in
clusters and hang in long, branched chains
Elevation: 0-4,000 feet
Article Continues on Page 3
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Cholla Cactus—Continued From Page 2
CHRISTMAS CHOLLA/ HOLYCROSS CHOLLA /
DESERT CHRISTMAS CACTUS
Opuntia leptocaulis
The most slender of all Chollas, and the mostly widely distributed
in the Chihuahuan Desert. Red berries give it a seasonal
appearance.
Desert:
Chihuahuan Desert of Southern Arizona,
New Mexico and Texas
Height:
4-6 feet
Joints:
Slender and smooth, uninterrupted by tubercles
Flowers: Yellow to bronze
Fruit:
Bright-red, grape-sized berries last throughout
the winter
Elevation: 200-5,000 feet
DEVIL CHOLLA / CLUB CHOLLA
Opunria clavata, Opucia parishii, Opuntia schotti, Opuntia stanlyi
The various species of Devil Cholla are all Club Cholla, so-called
because they have club-shaped joints with well-defined tubercles.
Devil Cholla have no sheaths on spines. All are low-growing, often
forming thick mats that can be impenetrable. Spines come in all
colors, but can be sharp as daggers.
Page 3
DEVIL CHOLLA / CLUB CHOLLA (Continued)
u Opuntia parishii
Desert:
Mojave Desert of Eastern California, Southern
Nevada and Eastern Arizona
Height:
Up to 4 inches
Joints:
Obovoid segments; to 1-inch in diameter
Flowers: Lemon-yellow with greenish centers
Fruit:
Fleshy, smooth, yellow, to 3 inches long
Elevation: 6,000-8,000 feet
uOpuntia schotti
Desert:
Height:
Joints:
Flowers:
Fruit:
Elevation:
Chihuahuan Desert of West Texas
Up to 12 inches
Form at base of older joints; lies on ground
Lemon-yellow to greenish
Yellow, spiny, 3 inches long
1,000-5,000 feet
uOpuntia stanlyi
Sonoran & Chihuahuan Deserts from Southern
California to Southwestern New Mexico
Height:
Up to 12 inches
Joints:
Form at base of older joints; and lies on ground
Flowers: Lemon-yellow to greenish
Fruit:
Yellow, spiny, 3 inches long
Elevation: 300-4,000 feet
Desert:
u Opuntia clavata
Desert:
Chihuahuan of Central New Mexico
Height:
Up to 4 inches
Joints:
Form at base of older joints & lies on the ground
Flowers: Lemon-yellow to greenish
Fruit:
Yellow, spiny, 3 inches long
Elevation: 6,000-8,000 feet
Article Continues on Page 4
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 4
Cholla Cactus—Continued From Page 3
DIAMOND CHOLLA / PENCIL CACTUS
Opuntia ramoissima
Usually a low shrub growing in the driest
deserts, prominent yellow or tan spine
sheaths have an orange tip. The only Cholla
with a grooved surface.
Desert:
Sonoran Desert of Southeastern
California, Southern Nevada
and Southwestern Arizona
Height:
Up to 5 feet
Joints:
Pencil-sized, gray stems are
grooved, producing diamondshaped tubercles.
Flowers: Dark pink to apricot
Fruit:
Spiny, dry burrs
Elevation: 100-3,000 feet
Opuntia arbuscula
Similar to Klein's and Christmas Chollas,
Pencil Cholla grows with a trunk instead of as
a sprawling shrub. Enjoys sandy and gravelly
plains, valleys and washes.
Desert: Sonoran Desert of Southeastern
California and Southwestern
Arizona
Height: 2-5 feet
Joints: Long, thin, deep green pencil-sized
without tubercles
Flowers: Yellow to orange
Fruit:
Fleshy and green
Elevation: 1,000-4,500 feet
KLEIN'S CHOLLA
SAND CHOLLA
Opuntia kleiniae
This trunkless Cholla is similar to Pencil
and Christmas Chollas, but has thicker
stems. Spines grow four to a cluster and
point down.
Desert: Sonoran and Chihuahuan
Deserts from Central Arizona to
Western Texas.
Height: 3-7 feet
Joints: Thick and tuberculate
Flowers: Pink to purple
Fruit:
Smooth red or orange
Elevation: 2,000-6,500 feet
PENCIL CHOLLA
Opuntia pulchella
This Cholla grows in a clump from a bristledcovered tuber, favoring higher elevation drylake borders and sandy flats.
Desert: Northern Mojave Desert from
Eastern California to Southern Utah
Height: Up to 10 inches
Joints: Narrowly club-shaped to cylindrical,
1-inch diameter
Flowers: Pink to magenta with yellow-green
filaments
Fruit:
Smooth, red, fleshy and barbed,
up to 1 inch long
Elevation: 4,500-7,000 feet
SILVER CHOLLA / GOLD CHOLLA
Opuntia echinocarpa
White or yellow sheaths provide this Cholla both the
common names Silver and Gold. This bushy, shorttrunked species has many short terminal joints at the
ends of longer ones.
Desert:
Sonoran Desert of Western Arizona,
Southern Nevada and SE California
Height:
Up to 5 feet
Joints:
Small, oblong, yellow-green with short,
colored spines
Flowers: Greenish yellow, out portions red streaked
Fruit:
Spiny and dry up when ripe
Elevation: 1,000-5,000 feet
STAGHORN CHOLLA /
TREE CHOLLA / DEERHORN CHOLLA
Opuntia versicolor
With forked branches resembling deer antlers this
tree-like cactus hybridizes easily with Buckhorn and
Cane Chollas, making identification difficult.
Desert:
Sonoran Desert within 100 miles of
Tucson, Arizona, and south into Mexico
Height:
3-15 feet
Joints:
Dull green forming very long stems
Flowers: All varieties (versicolor)
Fruit:
Green, pear-shaped, fleshy, sometimes
forming chains
Elevation: 1,000-4,000 feet
Article Continues on Page 5
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 5
Cholla Cactus—Continued From Page 4
TEDDY BEAR CHOLLA /
JUMPING CHOLLA
Opuntia bigelovii
Said to resemble the fuzzy arms and legs of a
Teddy Bear, it can be distinguished by its dense,
straw-colored spines and yellow to green flowers.
Desert: Sonoran Desert of Western Arizona,
Southern Nevada and Southeastern
California
Height: 5 -9 feet
Joints: Small, oblong, yellow-green with short,
colored spines
Flowers: Greenish to yellow with lavender streaks
Fruit:
Egg-shaped, yellow to 1 inch long
Elevation: 100-5,000 feet
WHIPPLE CHOLLA
Opuntia whipplei
This Cholla often grows as shrubs or in mats on
plains and grasslands.
Desert: Chihuahuan Desert of Eastern Arizona and
Western New Mexico
Height: Up to 30 inches
Joints: Green, cylindrical to 6 inches long
Flowers: Pale to lemon yellow
Fruit:
Yellow, spineless round to ovoid, about 1½
inches long
Elevation: 4,500-7,000 feet
TREE CHOLLA
Opuntia imbricata
Green and somewhat spineless, this Cholla
resembles the Cane Cholla, which also turns
purplish in colder weather.
Prevalent in desert flats, and in Pinyon and
Juniper stands.
Desert:
Chihuahuan Desert of New Mexico and
Texas north to semi-desert areas of
Eastern Colorado and Western
Oklahoma.
Height:
Up to 7 feet
Joints:
Very fat with tubercles
Flowers: Deep lavender to red
Fruit:
2-inch-long, yellow, oval
Elevation: 2,000 -7,000 feet
WOLF'S CHOLLA
Opuntia wolfii
This common Cholla of the Colorado Desert has
brown, 1-inch spines with translucent sheaths.
Desert: Western edge of Sonoran Desert to Baja
California
Height: Up to 6 feet
Joints: Branched from base in cylindrical segments
Flowers: Pale brown with purple filaments
Fruit:
Dry, tubercled, 1 inch long
Elevation: 1,000-4,000 feet ¢
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 6
WATER-WISE PLANTS
Nolina microcarpa
BEARGRASS
(Nolina species)
Sources: Beargrass in ‘Water-Wise Plants for the SW by
N. Sterman, M. Irish, J. Phillips and J. Lamp’l, Cool Springs Press, 2007.
And NM Gardener’s Guide, by J. Phillips, Cool Springs Press, 2004
Zones:
5-11; hardy to Zone 5
Form:
Broad clumps with tall flower spikes in spring or summer
Growth & Mature Size: Quick-growing perennial grass to 2 x 5 feet x 4 to 10 feet.
Uses:
Slopes, dry streambed, boulder accent, succulent and native plant
gardens, mass
Soil:
Fast-draining soil
Pests:
When plant is stressed by overwatering
Description:
Young seedlings of Beargrass look like rather coarse-bladed
clumps of grass, but unlike true grasses, the foliage is thick and fleshy. Beargrass leaves
are slender, less than 1-inch wide and 3 to 5 feet long. Triangular if viewed as a cross
section, the leaves arch gracefully to form clumps. Tiny individual flowers appear by the
hundreds on densely branched, plume-like flower spikes.
Nolina texana leaves are ½ inch wide, up to 3 feet long in clumps 4 to 5 feet wide.
Densely clustered flowers are massed on 6-inch heads. It’s hardy to Zone 5 if established
early in summer and kept dry in winter. Many are protected species so do not collect
seeds from wild plants.
Cultivation:
• Usually transplanted from 1- to 5-gallon-sized containers into the garden in early spring
through fall in warmer climates and in spring through summer in higher elevations.
• Loosen soil well and don’t let plants settle by burying the crown deeper than they had
been growing.
• Mulch with gravel.
• Water transplants sparingly, just often enough that the soil doesn’t dry out completely
between waterings.
• When plants are well rooted after a few years, water deeply during the growing season
once or twice a month.
• Keep plants dry in winter to avoid root rot.
• No fertilizer is needed.
• If plants are growing where seed litter might be a problem, prune off the flower stems
after the plants bloom.
• If feeding wildlife is priority, leave seedheads on until the birds have harvested their fill.
• Trim the dried basal leaves off in more cultivated garden settings.
Nolina erumpens
Shared Spaces
o Native to the Southwest, Beargrass is almost
always found on slopes in large groups in rocky
terrain.
o Plant Beargrass among boulders in accent
groupings with other succulents and cacti as well as
mesquite, Live Oaks, Prostrate Sumac, Cliffrose,
Fernbush, Desert Marigold, and Sand Lovegrass.
o Because the leaves are not sharp, Beargrass is
often used for a tropical look around swimming
pools.
Nolina Texana
Other Species and Cultivars:
• Nolina erumpens has stiffer leaves that Nolina
texana with flower stems almost as tall as Nolina
microcarpa.¢
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 7
TROPICAL PLANTS of INTEREST
Anthurium
(Anthurium andraeanum)
Source: Hawaiian Plants and Tropical Flowers @ Link:
http://wildlifeofhawaii.com/flowers/1458/anthurium-andraeanum-anthurium/
Scientific Name:
Common Names:
Anthurium andraeanum
Anthurium, Flamingo-lily, Flamingo Flower,
Oilcloth-flower, Tail Flower
Plant Characteristics
Duration:
Perennial
Growth Habit:
Herb/Forb
Hardiness:
Zones 10 and above; to 40°F
Hawaii Native Status: Cultivated. This ornamental garden plant and
house plant native to Colombia and Ecuador.
Flower Color:
White, yellowish. The much more conspicuous
floral spathes are red, pink, green, white,
cream, or multicolored.
Flowering Season: Year-round
Height:
Up to 3 feet tall
Description:
The tiny flowers grow on a slender, finger-like or tail-like spadix above
a very shiny, waxy, colorful, crinkled, heart-shaped spathe. The flowers
are sometimes followed by small, fleshy berries. The leaves are large,
glossy dark green or even black in some varieties, leathery, alternate, and
oblong-heart-shaped to arrow-shaped. The plants are epiphytes but can
be grown in loose rock, bark, and fiber soil mixtures.
In Hawaii, Anthuriums are grown in shady, humid tropical gardens or
grown commercially for export and cut flowers. The showy inflorescences
make very long-lasting cut flowers in tropical flower arrangements.
Special Characteristics
Poisonous –Plants are poisonous and contain calcium oxalate
crystals, which can cause severe mouth irritation and swelling if
ingested.
❖Anthuriums❖
Anthuriums are one of the most popular tropical flowers with a long vase
life of about six weeks and even more depending on the variety and season.
Here are some facts about this beautiful plant:
• Herbaceous epiphytes that is native to tropical America.
• A genus of more than 800 species found in the New World tropics from
Mexico to northern Argentina and Uruguay.
• Also known as Painted Tongue, Flamingo Flower (Flamingo Lily) or Tail
Flower.
• Grown for their brightly colored flower spathes and their ornamental
leaves.
Description: The red, heart-shaped flower of Anthuriums is really a spathe
or a waxy, modified leaf flaring out from the base of a fleshy spike (spadix)
where the tiny real flowers grow. The Anthurium flowers appear as a
roughness on the spadix as compared to a smooth spadix. Most common
colors of Anthuriums are red and shades of red.
In Greek, the name Anthurium means ‘tail flower’. The plant's stem
lengths may grow to a height of 15-20 inches depending on the size of the
spathe, i.e., the bigger the spathe, the longer the stem. Its leaves are
usually simple, large, attractively colored and borne on long stalks. The
flowering stalk is slender, ending in a fleshy column crowded with many
unisexual flowers. They have leafy bracts that may be white, yellow, red,
pink, orange or green.
Article Continues on Page 8
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 8
Anthuriums –- Continued From Page 7
Description (Continued)
Being popular foliage plants, Anthuriums are grown for their attractive flowering
bracts that are popular with the cut flower trade.
All parts of the Anthurium plant, are poisonous. If ingested, may cause mild
stomach disorders. The Anthurium plant's sap can cause skin irritation.
Anthuriums grow well in pots, but they require plenty of care and maintenance to
keep them healthy and blooming all year round. They prefer slightly moist, soilless
potting medium and warmer temperatures with moderate humidity levels. They grow
in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness Zones 10 through 12.
Growing Anthuriums In Pots
• Anthuriums can be grown by four methods: 1) vegetative reproduction, 2) seeds,
3) tissue culture, and 4) fertilization.
• Grow Anthurium where temps are between 60°F and 80°F.
• Anthuriums can grow on a wide range of soil types ranging from sandy loams to
heavy clays. They need a highly organic soil with good water retention capability
and good drainage. A well-drained soil is important to prevent the rotting of stems
and roots.
• Stake the anthurium after planting for support.
• Place these plants in areas with partial shade outdoors or bright, indirect sunlight
indoors, such as 5 to 8 feet from a window. Avoid direct sunlight.
Growing Anthuriums In Pots (Continued)
• Spray all parts of the plant thoroughly with insecticidal soap
once a week if you notice aphids, mites, scales, thrips or
mealybugs. Another method for targeting scale is dabbing the
insects with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol and
wiping them gently with a cloth to remove them from the plant.
• Mulching is needed for the Anthuriums plants. The plant’s roots
will grow into the mulch and spread.
Anthurium Plant Care
Remove dead and unsightly foliage and faded or brown flowers.
Use a peat moss base.
Anthuriums need a high light but not direct sunlight.
Water your Anthurium thoroughly, but allow it to dry slightly
between waterings. Do not over-water Anthuriums as it may
cause root damage and yellowing of the leaves.
• Fertilize the Anthurium plant about every other month.
• Avoid draughts and strong temperature fluctuations.
• In winter, Anthurium plants need a 6-week rest period with little
water. This allows the plant to flower profusely again in the
following season.
•
•
•
•
• Cover the roots and stems with a layer of moss or peat as the plant grows and the
root level rises. This layer protects the stems and maintains moisture in the plant.
• Water Anthurium immediately after planting. Water when the soil feels dry at a
depth of 1-inch. Water outdoor plants only during hot, dry periods or when the soil
dries out at a depth of 1 inch. Water deeply enough so that it drips through the
bottom of the pot. Drain out the excess water so the plant doesn't stand in it.
• Mist the leaves of indoor Anthurium plants with water once a week to help
maintain humidity levels around the plant.
• Fertilize Anthuriums every other watering with a 9-3-6 or 12-12-12 water-soluble
fertilizer mixed at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. Use this solution in
place of water once every one to three months. A layer of coconut husks, semirotted wood, or sugar cane bagasse may be used.
• Repot Anthuriums as needed when the roots fill up the container. Use a pot with
drainage holes, and increase the pot size by 1 or 2 inches at a time. Fill it halfway
with pebbles, then use a mixture of three parts orchid peat, one part leaf mold and
one part sphagnum moss. Mix in a handful of coarse sand, crushed charcoal or
crushed brick.
Sources:
Anthuriums on ‘The Flower Expert’ at link:
http://www.theflowerexpert.com/content/aboutflowers/exoticflowers/a
nthuriums
Caring For Anthurium Growing In The Garden Or Home by
Heather Rhoades, on ‘GardeningKnowHow.com’ at link:
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/houseplants/anthurium/an
thurium-care.htm
How To Grow Anthurium in Pots by Shelley Marie on SF Home
Guides at link: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/grow-anthuriumpots-90015.html
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Small-Space Garden Ideas
Source: Birds & Blooms @ link: http://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/smallspace-gardening/small-space-garden-ideas/
Transform small-space gardens into lush backyards with the right plants
by using these top ten tips for small-space gardening.
o Layering helps make the most of a small yard. Work from ground level
upward, filling each layer with plants. Start with ground covers, annuals
and perennials, then work up to shrubs, vines and trees.
o Plant flowering vines along fences, arbors and trellises for maximum
visual impact without eating up lots of precious garden space. Brighten
privacy fences with trellises and flat-backed planters.
o Mix bulbs with perennials. This provides spring color as the bulbs
emerge and summer color when the perennials bloom.
o Try a tabletop garden. Select a sturdy table that can hold about 50
pounds, and fill it with pots of flowers, veggies and herbs. Upkeep is
minimal, and you’ll save your knees and back.
o Containers are a quick and easy way to add flowers anywhere,
especially in small spaces. To minimize watering, choose droughtresistant plants and larger pots, which don’t dry out as quickly.
o Even the tiniest yard needs trees or evergreens for a sense of structure.
Many varieties of dwarf trees are ideal for small landscapes. Check out
your local garden center…and make sure a plant marked “dwarf” is truly
small enough for your backyard.
o Choosing plants that are too big for your garden can make it look even
smaller and more crowded. Stick to plants with a compact growth habit.
Don’t be fooled because a young plant looks petite. It’s the plant’s
mature size that you’ll have to live with.
Page 9
o Make room to relax. No matter how small your garden is,
create an area for a bench or a chair or two. After all,
gardening isn’t just about planning, planting and maintaining.
It’s also about enjoying your hard work and effort!
o Make the most of your planting space and minimize watering
chores at the same time by placing container plants directly
beneath hanging baskets. When you water the pots on top,
the overflow will water the ones below.
o Tuck tomatoes and peppers among sun-loving flowers,
and train sprawling veggies like cucumbers and pole beans to
climb up a trellis. Use lettuce as a border plant, or combine
several varieties to make a low-growing bed. Think small—
compact squares work just as well as long rows.■
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
PLANTING NEW ROSES IN FALL:
Yes or No?
Fall clearance at the local garden center? Take advantage.
Autumn is a great time to invest in new shrubs—even in shrub roses.
While these bloomers have a reputation for being finicky in cold,
there’s an easy way to ensure they’ll live to see spring.
The general rule of thumb says that fall is an excellent time to plant
new flowers in your garden, but when it comes to the delicate nature
of roses, this may not be the ideal time when to plant roses. Whether
you should be planting rose bushes in the fall depends on several
factors. Let’s take a look at these factors.
Page 10
How to Plant Roses in the Fall (Continued)
! Choose an area that has at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. And if
the spot is protected from wind by a wall or fence, then that will give your
new roses a better chance of surviving the winter.
! Plant only dormant – One of the top things to remember when
considering how to plant roses in the fall is that you should only be
planting dormant roses (without leaves). Transplanting active roses or
planting rose bushes that come from the nursery in active growth will not
work as well when planting in the fall.
Bareroot Roses or Container Roses?
The first thing to consider is what kind of packaging your roses are
in. If your roses come as bareroot plants, you should not be planting
your rose bushes in the fall. Bareroot plants take longer to establish
themselves and will most likely not survive the winter if planted in the
fall. Container packaged roses establish themselves much more
quickly and can be planted in the fall.
Winter Temperatures Affect When to Plant Roses
Another factor in deciding when to plant roses is what your lowest
average winter temperature is. If the winter temperature in your area
drops down to -10 F or lower on average, then wait until spring for
planting rose bushes. The rose plants will not have enough time to
establish themselves before the ground freezes.
Leave Enough Time to Time to First Frost When Planting
Make sure that there is at least one month before your first frost
date if you will be planting rose bushes. This will ensure that there is
enough time for the roses to establish themselves. While it does take
longer than a month for a rose bush to become established, the roots
of a rose bush will continue to grow after the first frost.
What you are really looking for at is time to when the ground
freezes. This normally occurs a few months after your first frost (in
areas where the ground freezes). The first frost date is just the
easiest way to calculate when to plant roses with ground freezes in
mind.
How to Plant Roses in the Fall
If you have determined that fall is a good time for you to be
planting rose bushes, there are a few things you should keep in mind
about how to plant roses in the fall.
! Dig a hole that’s a few inches wider than the rose’s root ball, and
deep enough to cover the “union” (the knobby bump where the roses’
stems and roots meet) by an inch or two.
! While the soil is still warm enough to work, take time to protect the
new rose. Build a mound of mulch, compost, soil or a combination up
over the rose’s base and into its canes, covering the roots. It should be
10 to 12 inches tall. This mound of soil will protect the rose from
fluctuation in weather, so it doesn’t leaf out during a warm spell in
January.
! Once that mound freezes and as the plant starts to drop its leaves, you
can add up to 12 inches more to the mound for added insulation.
! Do not fertilize – Fertilizing may weaken a rose plant and it needs to be
as strong as possible to survive the coming winter.
! Do not prune – A fall-planted rose bush has enough to contend with
without having to deal with open wounds. Do not prune roses after you
have planted them in the fall. Wait until spring.
! In late spring, as the ground warms, pull the mounded soil away over
time (just spread it out over the bed.) Now, the rose can get ready for
summer.■
Sources:
How To Plant New Roses in Fall in ‘Garden Gate: Gardening Ideas’ at link:
www.GardenGateGardenIdeas.ocm
Planting Rose Bushes in the Fall on ‘GardeningKnowHow’ at link:
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/plantingrose-bushes-in-the-fall.htm
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 11
A plant that receives too much sun quickly suffers. No matter how much
you water, the plant appears wilted even after the sun goes down. Leaves
turn yellow from sun-bleaching or from over-watering. If shade isn’t
provided, the plant grows poorly and the leaves drop off or burn,
eventually leading to the plant’s death.
On the opposite end of the spectrum are full-sun plants in too much
shade. As they stretch toward any light available, these sun lovers grow
tall and lanky with distorted leaf development. Because many plants rely
on light cues to bloom, any plant in the wrong light conditions will fail to
flower well and fruiting will be less productive or non-existent.
BACK TO BASICS:
Garden Success When We Respect Three Key Conditions
Tammie Painter | Horticulture Magazine | July/August 2016
The health of any garden starts with keeping plants in their proper growing
conditions. Trying to grow plants in the wrong soil type, soil pH or light
quality will turn even a low-maintenance species into one that requires extra
work and extra resources to help it survive.
Like people, plants prefer living in certain conditions; in the wrong
conditions they become stressed. As with people, too much stress leads to
poor health, reduced vigor and opens a door to pests and diseases.
Although resilient plant species can adapt to less than ideal situations,
most face a struggle for survival when placed in the wrong garden location.
Besides taking a toll on the plants themselves, siting them in the wrong
conditions gobbles up valuable resources. According to a 2013 survey by
the National Gardening Association, we spend $29.5 billion on our gardens
every year. While some plants, like annuals and vegetable starts, can be
obtained inexpensively, shrubs and mature perennials come with hefty price
tags. Putting these investments in the wrong soil type or light quality wastes
those hard-earned dollars and leads to additional expenses, such as
fertilizers and water; not to mention the hours you spend tending to plants
that are suffering.
An understanding of three plant conditions that strongly affect your
garden’s health will keep your plants thriving and allow you to solve problems
when they arise.
✹ QUALITY OF LIGHT
Light is one of the easiest planting conditions to determine. Most plants
come with tags stating their light requirements; if they don’t, you can easily
find the information online or in a book. To figure out your garden’s light
conditions, you only need to look out your window during the growing
season.
Botanically speaking, light requirements range from full sun (at least six
hours per day, partial sun (four to six hours per day), partial shade (one
and one-half to four hours per day) or full shade (less than ninety minutes
per day).
Timing also matters. Some plants—Coral Bells (Heuchera cvs.) and False
Spiraea (Astilbe spp.) for example—tolerate full morning and evening sun,
but cannot withstand direct afternoon sun in summer.
The solution is fairly simple. Observe your garden before you fall in love
with a certain type of plant. If the sun blasts your garden beds most of the
day, a fern garden dotted with Hostas and Hellebores will not work.
Likewise, if your garden leans toward the shady side, dreams of a cactus
garden should be reconsidered.
✹ TYPE OF SOIL
In many cases your garden’s soil type comes predetermined, unless
you install raised beds or take on the task of changing your soil by
regularly amending it.
Your soil type is important because it affects how well your soil holds
water and nutrients. It also determines which plants will do well in your
garden. For example, most Rhododendrons have no problem with clay
soil, but Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) suffers in this heavy
medium.
C
The basic soil types are clay, loam, and sand. Clay soil is
characterized by being heavy, holding a great deal of water and nutrients,
draining poorly and hardening during dry spells. Light, loose sandy soil
drains quickly, but this rapid drainage leaches nutrients. Loam possesses
a Goldilocks mix of fine and coarse particles, which means good drainage
while still retaining nutrients. Your soil may also be a mix of types, such as
sandy loam.
The difficulty with soil type is that plants rarely come with tags letting
you know which soil they prefer (although many garden species will do
well in loam). While you may be tempted to grow anything that catches
your eye, a healthy garden requires evaluating soil type before planting
time (see “Testing, Testing” on Page 12).
Article Continues on Page 12
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 12
Back To Basics—Continued From Page 11
Adjusting Soil PH
Plants placed in clay soil (see above photo) must be able to handle a
variety of moisture conditions—from super soggy to bone dry. Plants
intolerant of clay can develop root rot from excessive moisture and they will
have trouble extending their roots deep into this dense soil. This shallow root
system leads to unstable plants that can tolerate neither dry nor wet
conditions. Likewise, clay-adapted plants in sandy soil will quickly dry out
and, as the roots delve deeper looking for moisture and nutrients, the plant
will fail to develop lush above-ground growth.
The solution is to understand your soil type and either choose plants
adapted to it, amend it with regular applications of compost or grow plants in
containers or raised beds filled with the soil that they need.
TESTING, TESTING
You don’t need a degree in geology to determine your soil
type. Just perform this simple test.
1) Pick a time when the weather has been mild and dry for
about a week and when rain isn’t predicted for the next 24
hours.
2) Soak a 12 by 12 foot section of a garden bed with water. If
the soil varies across your garden, test several areas at
one.
3) Leave your test area uncovered and undisturbed for 24
hours.
4) Scoop up a small chunk of soil, squeeze it in your hand
and note what happens. If you are left with a ball or direct
that mostly holds its shape (and may still be wet), you
have clay soil. If you can form a ball that hold together but
crumbles when you brush your fingers over it, you have
loam. If the soil crumbles out of your hand as you
squeezed, you have sandy soil.
It’s much easier to simply use plants that prefer your
soil’s natural pH, but if you want to attempt something
different, it’s possible to adjust the pH. Bear in mind, it will
be an ongoing process as the soil will shift back towards its
natural pH over time.
• You can raise the pH of acidic soil by working lime
(calcium carbonate) or pulverized oyster or clamshells
into the soil. Liming agents work most efficiently when
they wash into the soil soon after application, so time
this project when rain is predicted.
• Liming agents generally require three to four months to
change pH. Carefully follow all application directions, as
this change is difficult to reverse is you swing the pH
too far.
• Wood ashes also raise pH, but not as strongly as liming
agents. They are good if a small pH increase is desired.
• Adding any kind of organic matter, such as compost,
shredded leaves, conifer needles or bark mulch, will
lower pH as they decompose. Plan to add organic
matter at least a month or two ahead of planting time to
give the amendments time to work.
✹ SOIL PH
Soil pH may seem too scientific for the home gardener, but it’s a vital
matter for your plants.
As it’s most basic level, soil pH determines your plant’s ability to access
nutrients. In the right pH conditions, a plant’s roots are able to absorb
nutrients from the soil. The wrong pH locks up those nutrients, making
them unavailable to the plant. This has to do with pH affecting the ions on
nutrient molecules in a way that either gives the nutrients a ‘free pass’ into
the roots or puts up a wall to the nutrients’ entry.
A common pH problem can be seen when acid-loving plants, like
blueberries, are planted in neutral or basic soil. At first the shrub does fine,
but over time its leaves yellow as it goes into iron chlorosis. Your
immediate reaction is to give it a dose of fertilizer. The nitrogen in the
fertilizer will give the blueberry s spurt of leaf-producing growth, but this
spurt places additional stress on the nutrient-deficient plant. Left in neutral
soil, the shrub’s health and stamina suffers, you get few blueberries and
eventually the plant dies.
Article Continues on Page 13
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 13
Back To Basics—Continued From Page 12
THE OLDEST TREE IN THE WORLD
✹ SOIL PH (Continued)
Extension Cooperative Services and better gardening books can tell
you a plant’s pH requirements. You can also make some general
assumptions:
• The majority of plants do well in near-neutral soil (pH 6.5 to pH 7.5)
• Plants from rainy areas tend to prefer acidic soils (pH 4.5 to pH 6.5)
• Plants from arid regions do well in the alkaline range (pH 7.5 to pH 8.5)
Keep in mind that these are broad generalizations and they don’t apply
to every plant.
Tests for pH range from full-analysis kits you send to a lab to
inexpensive litmus-strip kits available to most garden centers. If you
suspect your soil has serious problems, opt for the lab-tested kits,
because many of these will also tell you what nutrients your soil is lacking.
For most home gardeners, the inexpensive home tests will suffice.
Kate Goldbaum | Live Science | August 2016
The planet's trees have seen plenty of history pass by their trunks. In
fact, they began to populate Earth 385 million years ago, toward the end of
the Devonian period. Considered living historical records, these organisms
can withstand generations of development and change.
But which tree has been around the longest?
Until 2013, the oldest individual tree in the world was Methuselah, a
4,845-year-old Great Basin bristlecone pine (Pinus longaeva) in the White
Mountains of California. Researchers at the Rocky Mountain Tree-Ring
Research Group then announced the age of another P. longaeva also
located in the White Mountains —this one 5,062 years old.
Once you have your soil’s pH numbers, you can either choose plants to
match or you can adjust it by amending the soil. (See Amending Soil pH
chart on Page 12, Column 2). This change is best done slowly over a
season or two and it will need to be maintained on a regular basis. Trying
to push your soil beyond its normal range will be an uphill, continual
struggle.
Too often it is assumed that just because a plant grows in a gardener’s
region it will do well in every garden within that region. Unfortunately, even
native plants grown in the wrong conditions will become weakened and
troublesome over time, while plants grown in their preferred conditions will
flourish with less care. The right choices will allow you to spend time
enjoying a healthy garden rather than tending to a weak one.■
Europe's oldest tree, crowned in 2016, is a 1,075-year-old Bosnian pine
(Pinus heldreichii) growing in Greece. (See photo above.) The tree—
named Adonis after the Greek god of beauty, youth and desire—took root
in A.D. 941, when the Vikings were still raiding along European coastlines.
Europe is home to some even longer-lived trees, but these have yet to be
officially dated.
For instance, living in a churchyard of the Llangernyw Village in North
Wales, the Llangernyw Yew is estimated to be at least 4,000 years old.
The Yew tree (Taxus baccata) is believed to have taken root sometime
during Britain's Bronze Age.■
Article Provided by Alberta Morgan, Certified Master Gardener
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 14
Top Six FREE Gardening Apps
In this issue, Numbers 1 & 2, based upon worldwide popularity, are listed.
Gardening applications give Internet users valuable information on how
to plan, plant and raise a healthy garden based on local climate and environmental factors. AppAppeal ranks all gardening apps based on worldwide
popularity.
1. SMART GARDENER
Visit Website: http://www.smartgardener.com/
SmartGardener.com helps users plan and
maintain their gardens.
What can you use the app for?
PERENNIAL VEGETABLES:
15 Vegetables You Plant Once and Harvest Forever
Michael Milford | May 18, 2016 | CreateSpace Indep. Publishing
Available in Paperback & Kindle Formats
Perennial vegetables are really enjoyable to grow and they
require fewer efforts than an annual garden. Here are some
famous perennial vegetables that are possible to grow for the
whole year. These types of plants can live longer than three years,
such as aquatic plants, edible woodland species, and other plants.
There are various advantages of growing perennial vegetables,
such as they require less time and they require less tillage as
compared to a conventional garden. The soil structure will not
disturb the cultivation and the carbon will retail in the soil. These
can increase the harvesting season, such as early spring and they
are really valuable. Some perennial vegetables have a higher level
of mineral nutrients as compared to annuals.
This book offers:
• Overview of Perennials and Time to Grow Perennials
• Types of Perennial Vegetables and Growing Conditions
• Tips to Grow Famous Perennial Vegetables
• Maintenance of Perennial Vegetables for Whole Year
• Natural Composting for Perennials¢
Smart Gardener is the ultimate to do list application for gardeners.
Users with a green thumb can manage their garden-related tasks.
• The user can get started by setting up a new garden. The application allows
the user to record specific environmental conditions, garden layout, size and
shape and easy to read garden diagrams.
F
• Next, the user adds the plants they would like to include in their garden.
Smart Gardener provides a browse-able list of plants along with filters and
recommended plants that would work well with the user’s garden conditions.
• The application generates a plan based on the user’s garden specifications.
Each week, Smart Gardener supplies the user with a to do list so they can keep
their gardens looking lush and healthy. An in depth gardening reference guide is
included to help the user produce organic vegetables.
• Smart Gardener also provides the user with a shopping list so they know what
they need when they arrive at the nursery.
• The user can create their own unique layout and share it as a signature
garden with the rest of the Smart Gardener community. A dynamic journal is
included that allows the user to record observations and track gardening
activities.
2. YARDSHARE
Visit Website: http://www.yardshare.com/
YardShare lets its users share their backyards
with others to provide inspiration.
What can you use the app for?
• YardShare is an application where users who are not sure what to do with their
yard can browse through the extensive database of photos submitted from other
homeowners.
• Users can search for yard ideas by filtering the photos by yard type, yard
feature, garden, location and size. Additionally, there are yard experts who
provide useful articles on the site. Also there are contests that are held to inspire
people to get going on their yards and to show off theirs.
• YardIdea is a part of the site where users can get how-to's on how to make their
yard fantastic, like "How to Create Your Own Backyard Firepit."
• YardShare also has a forum on its site where users can exchange advice or
ask questions about how best to proceed.
• Users can also envision and create their ideal backyard using the YardShare
"Create A Yard" feature.
• For landscaping professionals, YardShare is a great way for them to advertise
their work and get more clients by posting images of their past projects onto
the site. For anyone with a backyard that is lacking a little luster, they should visit
YardShare and get some inspiration! ¢
AppAppeal @ link: http://www.appappeal.com/apps/gardening
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 15
Honey-Do List for October 2016
Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month Gardening in the Desert
Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding gardening resource book. Also,
some of our recommendations come from Southwest Planting Tips by the Month and the Tucson Gardening Calendar
both of which are produced by the Tucson Botanical Gardens. Another resource used in our Honey-Do Lists is The
Desert Gardener’s Calendar: Your Month-by-Month Guide by George Brookbank (1999.) Recommendations from
Sunset Magazine’s monthly Southwest Garden Guides may also be included.
GENERAL: We have about one more month of frost-free gardening. Our average first freeze date is November 6. Get busy!
Remember, “Do not prune in October!”
ORNAMENTALS
• Continue planting spring blooming bulbs such as crocus, anemone, and oxalis.
• As a general rule, plant bulbs to a depth of 3 times their diameter.
• Plant cool-season annuals such as pansies, sweet pea, and flowering kale.
• Sow seeds of wildflowers including California poppy, toadflax, and larkspur. Keep seedbeds moist
through germination to the five true leaf stage. Then reduce watering as tolerated.
• Cool-season perennials and hardy natives such as gaura, penstemon, and salvia may be planted now.
• Begin seeding Iceland and Shirley poppies.
• Groom, repot, and prepare to bring patio plants in for the winter.
• If you are leaving tender plants in the ground for winter, then mulch them heavily.
• For large tender container plants, get blankets or other coverings ready.
FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES
• Plant low-growing junipers.
• Continue planting winter hardy trees and shrubs but wait to plant species such as Red Bird of Paradise, true Palo
Verde, eucalyptus, and oleander.
• Reduce irrigation frequency to established non-fruit bearing trees and shrubs.
• Continue to irrigate pecans.
• Continue root pruning proposed transplants.
• Spray fruit trees with dormant oil containing a copper fungicide after 75% of leaves have fallen.
• Continue with good orchard sanitation practices.
VEGETABLES, FRUIT & HERBS
• Plant onions, garlic, and rapidly maturing crops such as radishes now.
• Plant seeds of coriander, parsley, and dill now.
• Chives, Mexican tarragon, oregano, oregano, rosemary, thyme, and winter savory may go in now.
• A good way to propagate woody perennial herbs such as rosemary and oregano is by layering.
Take a low growing stem, press it gently to the soil surface, and secure it to the ground with a
hairpin. Cover the hairpin with soil; keep it moist and undisturbed for about a month. After a month,
check gently for root growth. After roots develop, sever new plant from parent stem.
• Reduce irrigation frequency to grapes in preparation for winter.
LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
• Finish pre-emergent application to established turf
• Finish seeding cool-season grasses.
• Fertilize cool-season grasses and continue irrigation and mowing.
• Stop fertilizing warm-season species and reduce irrigation frequency as winter dormancy nears.
• If you are through mowing for the year, winterize the lawn mower but wait until after spring “scalping” to tune it up.
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 16
Honey-Do List for October 2016—Continued
CACTI & SUCCULENTS
• At the end of October, begin encouraging Christmas cactus to rebloom. Put plants in a cool
location at night—55ºF to 65ºF is ideal. Be sure to keep plant completely in the dark for 1214 hours. Water regularly, but let plant dry out between watering. Flower buds will form in
4-6 weeks.
• For Christmas bloom, give poinsettias and Christmas cactus 14 hours of uninterrupted
darkness per day. The Christmas cactus requires cool nights between 55ºF and 65ºF.
• Do not prune warm-season succulents this month. You can remove spent flowers anytime.
• You can remove pups from agaves and replant them this month.
• Do not remove yucca offsets during cool weather.
• Any container grown winter-growing succulents can be fertilized monthly starting this month. Use a soluble fertilizer at 1/4 to 1/2 the
recommended strength for houseplants. Do not fertilize plants that are planted in the ground this month.
• If cochineal scale is still a problem on cacti, hose them off with a strong jet of water.
Some of the above recommendations came from the Tucson Botanical Garden’s monthly “Calendar of Care” for cacti and succulents.
ROSES
• Allow roses to adjust to dropping temperatures and prepare for cold weather by reducing the frequency
of watering and discontinuing fertilizing.
• Mulch the root zone heavily with 6-8 inches of light mulch such as straw, leaves or pine needles. Be
sure to also protect the bud union with mulch.
• Continue deadheading roses regularly. Remove any dead or diseased canes.
• Be sure to keep the area around rose plants clean of debris and fallen leaves, particularly if powdery
mildew has been a problem.
• If the yellowed leaves occur only on the lower part of the rose bush, this is the natural die-off of old
leaves. If yellow leaves appear to spread upward on the plant, this usually indicates over-watering or
poor drainage.
PESTS
• If you have agaves that have been infected with agave snout weevil, you will experience sudden drooping of leaves with only the tight bud
erect on the plant. If this has occurred, the plant is dead and should be removed. Prevention is difficult and there is no cure for this weevil,
so replant with a less-susceptible species of agave.
• If any diseases have ravaged your prickly pear or cholla, cut these plants back severely this month to an uninfected portion of the plant.
Keep the plants well watered to encourage new growth.
It is always important to correctly identify any pest or insect you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not know what
the culprit is, collect one in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office located at
530 N. Church in Las Cruces (located just north of the Main Post Office downtown.)
MISCELLANEOUS
Reduce your overall watering to help plants harden-off for winter; be sure to adjust your irrigation
clock/timer for less frequent watering. Depending on the weather, continue a deep watering schedule for
everything about every 7 to 10 days.
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 17
REMINDER!
Our next monthly MG meeting is scheduled for:
Wednesday, November 9, 2016
Our meeting time is 9:15am to 11:30am
NO MONTHLY MEETING IN OCTOBER DUE TO
TUCSON GARDEN TRIP
★
★
★
★
★
REMINDER:
Our Cooperative Extension Office will be moving
to another building in November/December 2016.
New address will be 1170 North Solano Drive, near
the corner of Spruce Street, in Las Cruces.
OCTOBER 2016 MG BIRTHDAYS
Mary Ganier
★ Hope Movsesian
Eric Graham
★ Orlando Salazar
Bonnie Hoover ★ Mary Thompson
Jerry Humble ★ Juliet Williams
Alberta Morgan
In order to reduce the chances of Identity Theft for our MG’s,
exact birthdate info will no longer be printed in our Magazine.
Date:
OCTOBER 2016 Events of Interest
Sept. 27 to Oct. 2 Southwest New Mexico State Fair (Las Cruces)
October 6
Organic Industry Funding Follow Up (NMDA Conf. Room,
3190 South Espina Street, Las Cruces)
October 13
Bosque Cooking Class—Red Chiles (2:00 begin, $5)
October 13-14
Qualified Water Efficient Landscaper Class, Utilities
Admin. Building, CR 150, 680 N. Motel Blvd, Las Cruces
October 17-19
Pecan Growing Short Course ($350.00)
October 24
Free Plant Disorders Diagnosing (1:30-5:30pm) Fabian
Garcia Science Center
Doña Ana County MG 2016 Student Class Schedule
Link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/plantclinic/index.html
The Plant Diagnostic Clinic is designed to provide plant
diagnostic services for the State of New Mexico. Its services include
analysis of plant material for plant pathogens and environmental
stresses as well as suggesting appropriate control measures when
available.
The Clinic also facilitates insect and weed identification through
referrals to other specialists. Its clients include extension personnel,
crop consultants, growers, retailers, landscape professionals, golf
courses, researchers, government agencies, and homeowners.
The Plant Diagnostic Clinic works very closely with the New
Mexico Cooperative Extension county offices. For initial assistance
with plant problems first contact the County Extension office near
you. The County Extension staff will assist you with sample
submission to the clinic if needed. No diagnostic service fees will be
applied to samples submitted through extension offices.
Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office (575) 525-6649
Luna County Cooperative Extension Office
(575) 546-8806
10/06/16
10/13/16
10/20/16
10/27/16
Backyard Orchards (Field Trip)
Turf (Field Trip)
Weeds (Field Trip)
Soils (bring in soil sample in jar)
If current MGs wish to participate in any of these sessions, please contact DAC
Extension Office to assure that room is available. (575) 525.6649
Luna County MG 2016 Student Class Schedule
10/06/16
10/13/16
10/20/16
10/27/16
Gardens for Bees & Butterflies & Produce Food Safety
Warm-Weather Vegetables
Worms & Composting II
Pruning Trees
GOT IDEAS? If you have a gardening-related article or a suggestion
about a Plant-of-the-Month, a vegetable or fruit, tree, invasive plant
or weed to share for our MG Magazine, please send me a link or
email your idea to me.
MG CONTACT INFORMATION Be sure your email address is current
so that you will be able to receive important information throughout
the month from the MG Program. I regularly update our MG Contact
List. If you need a copy of this file, let me know.
MG MAGAZINE DEADLINE The deadline for submitting articles and
information for inclusion in our November 2016 MG Monthly
Magazine will be Thursday, October 27, 2016
Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
[email protected]
(575) 640-7177
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 18
• To find out how the plants were moving, the scientists went into a
field of sunflowers and marked both sides of their stems with a
Sharpie pen at regular intervals.
• Using a time-lapse camera, they were able to see that the east side
of the stem grew longer during the day, turning the plant’s head to the
west. At night, the reverse was true — the west side elongated,
causing the plant to face the east.
Sunflowers Sway To Sun’s Rhythm
Deborah Netburn | L.A. Times | August 5, 2016
Article Provided By Ruth E. Rose, Certified Master Gardener
Sunflowers may be rooted to the ground, but that doesn’t mean they
can’t dance. Each day, young sunflowers trace the path of the sun across
the sky, turning their faces 180 degrees from east to west.
And their slow, graceful movements continue at night. After the sun
sets, the plants reorient themselves, slowly twisting their heads back to the
east in anticipation of dawn.
Circadian biologist Stacey Harmer, a professor at U.C. Davis, became
interested in studying the motion of sunflowers after watching
mesmerizing time-lapse videos of this dance of the plants.
“At nighttime, you could see the whole plant rearranging itself, and it
was such an amazing thing,” she said. “I tell my students all the time that
plants are capable of incredible things — we just don’t notice because
their time scale is different than ours.”
The observation that juvenile sunflowers track the sun is not new —
Darwin himself reported the phenomenon more than 100 years ago. But
until now, no one had explained how the sunflowers move and why. In a
paper published in the journal, Science, Harmer and her collaborators
reveal the answers to these questions.
The Research
• “What they did is take a dusty old scientific curiosity, and did really great
science on it,” said Steven Kay, Director of Convergent Biosciences at
USC, who was not involved in the study.
• The team’s first step was to plant a field of sunflowers and observe what
happened before they started fiddling with variables.
• As the plants grew from young seedlings into mature, yellow-headed
adults, the researchers found that the sun-tracking movements of the
plant became less and less noticeable, until they stopped altogether.
• “A really common misconception is that mature sunflowers follow the
sun. Actually, they do not,” Harmer said. “Mature sunflowers always
face east.”
• The group also observed that the plants could pace their
movements. For example, during the short nights of midsummer,
young sunflowers took just 8 hours to swing their heads from west to
east. However, during the longer nights of autumn, it took them 12
hours to accomplish the same feat.
But what was controlling this growth pattern? Was it the movement
of the sun or some kind of internal clock?
• To answer this question the researchers moved dwarf sunflowers
from an outdoor field into a controlled lighting environment in the lab.
The scientists report that even when the plants were grown under
constant, fixed overhead lighting, they maintained the same headturning rhythms they displayed in the field for several days.
• In another lab experiment, the researchers messed with the
sunflowers’ internal clocks by exposing them to a 30-hour light cycle.
This thoroughly confused the plants, and they wound up turning their
heads furthest to the west well before the transition to dark. During
the night, the plants moved erratically.
• Together these results suggest that the sunflowers’ movements
are regulated by something other than simple growth toward the sun.
Some kind of circadian clock was also controlling the plants’ twists
and turns.
The next question, of course, was why. Are sunflowers served by
their ability to track the sun? And is there a benefit to the mature
sunflowers’ decision to turn to the east?
• Another series of experiments revealed the answer. Every night
for 100 nights, Harmer’s post-doctorate researcher Hagop Atamian
went into a field of sunflowers planted in pots and rotated them so
they were facing west in the morning. In multiple trials, the group
found that the manipulated plants were 10% smaller compared to a
control group.
“That’s a really big difference,” Harmer said.
Article Continues on Page 19
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Sunflowers Sway To Sun’s Rhythm—Continued From Page 18
• The group also reported that mature sunflowers have good reason
to face east. The authors found that east-facing sunflowers
attract up to five times the number of pollinators compared with
those that were rotated in their pots so that they were facing west.
• Yet another experiment showed that this is almost certainly because
east-facing sunflowers are more effectively warmed by the morning sun
than sunflowers that are facing west. To come to this conclusion,
another of Harmer’s post-docs warmed west-facing sunflowers with a
heat source until they were the same temperature as east-facing
sunflowers.
• Pollinators were more likely to come to the artificially warmed westfacing sunflowers than those that had not been warmed. However, the
pollinators still preferred the east-facing sunflowers.
Although the scientists uncovered many of the sunflower’s secrets,
Harmer said there is still much to learn. In future work she plans to study
what genes regulate the sunflowers’ dramatic movements.
“They are really great plants, and we kept finding out fascinating things
about them,” she said.¢
How Sunflowers Follow the Sun
Veronique Greenwood | The Atlantic | August 29, 2016
Article Provided by Alberta Morgan, Certified Master Gardener
A subsequent article in The Atlantic discussed Dr. Harmer’s initial
research on Sunflowers, and provided information on additional research
findings.
Anyone could see that a field of sunflowers will all face the same way—
though mature plants don't move like the young ones—and some studies
suggested that young plants' turning was the result of one side of the
sunflower's stem growing faster than the other. But why did it happen?
Page 19
What genes were controlling the plant's movement? Were they
influenced by the sun, or by some internal clock that kept track of what
time it was and which way to face? And why should sunflowers face the
sun, anyway?
To begin with, as Harmer and her group detail in a recent Live Science
paper, (Our first article printed on Pages 18-19), Harmer found that plants
left in the dark would continue to make their rounds for a while, even
without the sun to track. That made it clear that some timing system, not
just light exposure, was involved.
And so, despite their size, Harmer, who is now a professor at U.C.
Davis, found herself growing sunflowers. (She tried growing mustards and
tomatoes first, to see if these more tractable plants did anything similar,
but no such luck.) Later she brought on postdoc researchers who tended
them in pots out in the field, sometimes spending nights out there during
long experiments.
Then, to see whether one side indeed grew faster than the other,
Harmer's postdoc Atamian took time-lapse videos of sunflowers as they
grew, tracking marker lines he'd made on their stems. He found that
during the day, the east side of the stem rockets ahead of the west, which
causes the flower's head to turn. Then, at night, the west side kicks into
high gear, propelling the plant around to face east again, in preparation for
sunrise.
• That's remarkable because in a sunflower, east and west sides aren't
fixed, like having a right and a left hand. If you turn a plant, the stem has
new east and west sides. So how could the sides of the stem behave so
differently? Researchers already know that plant growth happens at
certain times of day under the control of the circadian clock. One
explanation for the sunflower's staggered growth might have been that
the plants' clocks were set to different times on either side, as though
the west side was jet-lagged from the east. Every two hours for 48
hours, Atamian took samples from the stems and looked to see what
genes were being expressed.
It turned out that the plant's clock was set to the same time on
each side—no jet lag. Instead, genes controlled by an important
growth hormone were expressed at different levels. The team is now
looking closer at that hormone to see whether it builds up at different times
on the opposing sides of the stem. Since the clock is tightly connected
with growth, they think the hormone must be interacting with the clock
somehow. “[But] we haven’t yet figured out what this mechanism might
be,” Harmer says.
Why all this complicated hormonal footwork to follow the sun? To see
what happened if sunflowers were prevented from their usual rounds, the
researchers lashed the plants to attention on stakes, or came in
every night to turn their pots around so they would be facing the
wrong way when morning came. Plants treated this way had 10
percent less mass and leaf area than those left to follow the sun,
suggesting that tracking helps substantially with growth.
Article Continues on Page 20
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 20
How Sunflowers Follow the Sun—Continued From Page 19
And in another series of experiments, the group found that
sunflowers facing east at dawn got many more bee visitors in
the morning than those facing west (there was no difference
in visitors later in the day). That seems to be because eastfacing flowers are warmer: When Harmer's postdoc Nicky Creux
rigged portable heaters to get west-facing flowers up to the same
temperature; their bee numbers went up.
Now, Harmer's co-author Ben Blackman at U.C. Berkeley has
been exploring whether getting early-morning pollinator visits is
better for sunflowers' chances of reproduction than visits later on.
“I've actually becoming very fond of Sunflower,” remarks
Harmer. It's still a little frustrating, both because of its size and
because there not as many tools to tinker with its genes as with the
little mustard Arabidopsis.
“But on the other hand, the biology is really fascinating.”¢
Dr. Stacy Harmer, U.C. Davis
4 FACTS ABOUT NATIVE BEES
IN YOUR BACKYARD
Heather Lamb | Birds & Blooms | May 2015
Learn these important facts about bees to help you grow a
garden that's safe and attractive for these powerful pollinators.
In the world of bees, Honeybees get a lot of attention and right now,
massive numbers of honeybees are disappearing. This phenomenon,
known as Colony Collapse Disorder, threatens both beekeeping
operations and the pollination of crops and natural landscapes.
Although Colony Collapse doesn’t impact native bees (i.e., honeybees
that originated in Europe), the possible causes behind Colony Collapse,
like pesticide use, habitat loss and disease, easily could. Native bee
populations are seeing declines, though not as widely documented as
those of honeybees, says Mace Vaughan, Co-Director of the Pollinator
Conservation Program of the Xerces Society.
Among native bumblebees, 30 percent of species have experienced
significant drop-offs that could lead to extinction. Concern about Colony
Collapse has brought attention to the critical pollination role of all bees
and their plight, and also spotlighted what people can do to help, says
David Mizejewski, a naturalist with the National Wildlife Federation.
Sweat Bee
We rely on bees to pollinate flowers like the one shown above.
Remember, they pollinate all of our food that grows, too. We need bees!
Article Continues on Page 21
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 21
Native Bees in Your Backyard—Continued From Page 20
To create a yard that’s safe and attractive to native bees, it’s important to
understand them first:
Here are four facts about native bees to help you grow a garden fit
for these powerful pollinators:
1) THEY HIDE IN PLAIN SIGHT:
... Native bees can look different from how we often visualize these flying
insects. “Most of the things we learn about bees as kids aren’t true
about native bees,” David says.
... They exist in an array of colors, including metallic green, brown, black
and gray, as well as the stereotypical yellow-and-black stripes.
... Native bees can be quite small and are often mistaken for flies.
... It’s also useful to note that native bees tend to be docile. “Many can’t
sting humans,” says Heather Holm, the author of Pollinators of
Native Plants. “Their stingers can’t even pierce our skin.”
3) NATIVE BEES ARE REALLY BUSY— HELP THEM OUT:
... Most female native bees are active as adults for two to six
weeks. During that time, they are collecting pollen to create as
many loaves and lay as many eggs as possible.
...To make foraging for pollen less arduous, provide a diverse
selection of flowers from spring to fall and plant them in groups.
... New generations and different species of bees are emerging
throughout the growing season and it’s essential that they have
enough flowers for pollen collection.
... Heather advises gardeners identify flowering gaps during the
growing season and add plants to the yard accordingly.
... “Bees need that continuous succession of plants flowering,” she
says. If possible, plant flowers in masses about three feet across.
... “As bees are flying across a landscape, a cluster of flowers has a
billboard effect,” Mace says. “It’s also efficient, allowing bees to
visit many flowers rapidly.”
2) TO FIND WHERE THEY NEST, LOOK DOWN:
... Most solitary bee species nest in the ground; the rest use tunnels like
hollow stems or burrow into dead wood. Inside these nesting sites,
the female bee creates a pollen loaf, lays a single egg on it, then starts
a new nesting site and repeats the process.
... To create a safe habitat for this type of nesting, it’s essential to have
areas of undisturbed and loose ground.
... Bees tend to select south-facing slopes with well-drained soil, which can
be warmer and drier, and make for good nesting sites. Heather
suggests forgoing mulch in spots where you’d like to see bees nest.
... “Many of the bees are small and can’t get through a layer of mulch,”
she says. When cutting back your plants in fall, leave behind footlong lengths of pithy or hollow stems for the tunnel nesters; cavitynesting bees will also use those stems the next year.
... You can also create natural bee houses by bundling together hollow
stems and hanging them in the yard.
... Fallen wood, brush piles or old fence posts also provide good nesting
sites.
4) YES, NATIVE FLOWERS ARE BEST:
... The relationship between bees and flowers is symbiotic—bees
need the flowers for nectar and pollen, and flowers need the bees
for pollination. A flower might be specialized to allow pollination
only from certain species of bees, or its structure might help assure
proper pollination, Heather says.
... For instance, if nectar is deep in a flower, a bee will have to push
its way into the flower to get at it.
... For a large, strong bee, like a bumblebee, this is an easy task and
the flower deposits pollen on the bee in the process. A smaller bee
might not be able to get to the nectar and will seek another flower.
... Bring in a hybridized flower, like a cultivar that will display double
blooms or a different color, and who knows what effect that change
might have on its pollen or nectar.
... “When we select cultivars of native plants, we don’t know how that
is affecting other attributes of the flowers that are important to
pollinators and wildlife,” David says.
... In the name of attracting bees, it’s best to choose heirloom plants
or those bred as little as possible.
Article Continues on Page 22
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 22
Native Bees in Your Backyard—Continued From Page 21
For ideas, stroll through your local garden center and see what plants
are covered with bees, Mace says.
Some of the flowers he recommends are:
o Anise hyssop
o Bee balm
o Catmint
o Milkweed
o Penstemon
o Sedum
o Sunflower
But depending on the conditions in your yard, there are hundreds that
will work. (Find plant lists for different regions at xerces.org.)
“The point is that everybody can do something for the bees and
everybody can have something pretty,” he says. “Plant the right flowers
and avoid pesticides. Do that and you’ll be rewarded.”■
Attract Pollinators All Season
Shayna Courtney | Garden Gate | June 2015
And Kathy LaLiberte | Gardeners.com |
Bee Garden Basics
When gardening for bees, here
are a few general rules of thumb:
• Choose a range of flower
shapes and colors to attract
the most bee species.
Bumblebees can easily collect
pollen from complex flowers,
while smaller bees appreciate
simple flower shapes and a
flat place to land.
• Plant season-long blooms to
support bees from early spring
until fall.
• Provide areas of undisturbed
ground or vegetation for
nesting sites.
• Bees and flowers have
evolved in tandem, so choose
non-hybrid natives.
• Plant in masses for efficient
pollen collection. Sunny
areas are most attractive.
• Avoid pesticide use. Even
some organic mixtures can
harm insects.
• Provide a muddy area or
shallow trough for water.
Your garden does a lot, giving you a place to escape and relax all while
adding beauty, color and interest around the yard. But did you realize the
plants you grow are also essential food sources for pollinators, such as
bees, butterflies and hummingbirds?
These winged visitors are a joy to watch, but they do important work,
too. And with a little planning, you can make sure your garden attracts
them all season long. Plus, pollinator favorites are usually bright, bold
blooms that draw the eye and fill any sunny spot with vivid color.
The most important step you can take is to plant a pollinator-friendly
garden. Choose nectar and pollen-rich plants like wildflowers and oldfashioned varieties of flowers. A succession of blooming annuals,
perennials and shrubs is best so nectar and pollen will be available
throughout the growing season. Also, include plants like dill, fennel and
milkweed that butterfly larvae feed on.
Getting Started
• Choose an area away from lots of foot traffic — a bed next to the back
door may not be the best place for pollen- and nectar-rich plants. This
way, pollinators will be able to feed without disturbance.
• Butterflies and bees need the warmth of a full sun each day, from
morning to afternoon. This environment is also the ideal growing
condition for the plants these pollinators like.
• A south-facing location with morning sun is best for a Mason Bees
house, where the solitary pollinators mate and rest. Make your own by
bundling dried, hollow stems about 8mm in circumference or purchase
kits from online sources.
• Protect pollinators from gusts that could disturb them by providing
windbreaks such as a picket fence. Be sure that there is good air
circulation.■
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Yucca pallida
Small Yuccas Enhance
Any Garden Style
Mary Irish | Learn To Grow.com |
With their arresting symmetry and sturdy texture, yuccas (Yucca spp.) can
be smoothly incorporated into almost any garden style—from a highly
formalized perennial planting to the wild exuberance of a native wildflower
patch. All typically have sweet-scented, creamy-white flowers and do fine in
full sun just about anywhere (except in the deserts of the Southwest, where a
high, light shade is preferred).
Page 23
Adam’s Needle (Yucca filamentosa)
• Has wide, thin, flexible, spike-shaped leaves that form a low rosette 2
feet tall and about as wide.
• Native along the coast from Mississippi to Florida and north to New
Jersey, it grows well as far north as Maine.
• Good drainage is essential, but otherwise Adam’s Needle isn’t
particular about soil type.
• It does well in the heat of the Southeast, but it can suffer in the
extreme heat of Southwestern desert.
Not all Yuccas are giants like the Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia), and the
smaller ones offer gardeners throughout much of the country an opportunity
to incorporate these beautiful, drought-tolerant plants into their own gardens.
Here are some of the outstanding ones:
Spanish Dagger (Yucca aloifolia)
• Native along the coast from Louisiana to Florida and north to Virginia.
• It has numerous stiff, spine-tipped leaves that crowd around a 3-foot trunk
that’s often branched, supporting a number of stems.
• A mature plant can grow more than 6 feet tall and up to 10 feet wide
(although they are generally grown to be much smaller).
• Depending on the variety, the leaves can range from long, wide and lax to
short, stiff and upright, as well as from bright to dull green, white or yellowstriped. Some even have leaves that turn deep purple in cool weather.
• Spanish Dagger thrives in any well-drained soil—even the rocky native
soils of the Southwestern desert.
Yucca flaccida
• Native to the mountains of western North Carolina to northern
Alabama, making it one the most tolerant of all yuccas to cold, damp
conditions.
• It can suffer in the dry heat of the deserts.
• This plant is a trunkless species with 5-foot-wide rosettes of thin,
flexible leaves lined with straight, delicate filaments (parts of the leaf
margin that separate and come at least partially free from the leaf).
• Plants form numerous offsets, and a mature clump can be extensive.
Article Continues on Page 24
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Small Yuccas—Continued From Page 23
Page 24
• Both the Twisted-Leaf Yucca and Pale-Leaf Yucca grow naturally
in alkaline soils with excellent drainage, although they perform well
in areas with deeper, more acidic soils as long as drainage is
excellent.
• They’re both fully hardy to around 10 degrees F, and Pale-Leaf
Yuccas even tolerate temperatures near 0 degrees F.
Plains Soapweed (Yucca glauca)
• Extremely cold-hardy, trunkless species that grows as a ball of narrow,
white-edged, blue-green leaves, looking more like a grass than a yucca.
• The plant forms a dense rosette about 3 feet tall and wide.
Curveleaf Yucca (Yucca gloriosa var. recurvifolia)
• A graceful species with a short trunk that can grow up 5-6 feet tall
over time.
• The plant has multiple stems, each of which may branch into two
or more rosettes, giving it a shrubby appearance.
Yucca harrimaniae
• The wide, blue-green, drooping leaves usually have prominent
raised ribs along their length.
• From the mountains of Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico and Utah—has
slightly wider leaves than Yucca glauca with a brown edge and white
filaments.
• Native to the dunes and sandy area of the Gulf from Louisiana to
Georgia, this plant is arguably the most widely grown of all the
small yuccas.
• Both of these yuccas are fully hardy to -20 degrees F and tolerate a wide
range of soils, as long as drainage is superb.
• It grows equally well in the rich, forest soils of the Southeast—as
long as drainage is excellent—and it thrives in the rocky, alkaline
soils of the Southwest, too.
• It even does extremely well in full sun in the desert, unlike some of
its other relatives. The plant is hardy to about 10 degrees F.
Whether used as an accent to balance an abundance of round
leafy shapes, mixed with shrubs and wildflowers in a native garden,
used as a dramatic accent or inter-planted with cacti and agaves, any
of these small yuccas make a stunning contribution to gardens
throughout the country.
FACTS ABOUT YUCCAS
Twisted-Leaf Yucca (Yucca rupicola)
Pale-Leaf Yucca (Yucca pallida)
• Both plants are native to central Texas.
• Twisted-Leaf Yucca has curving yellow-green leaves, while Pale-Leaf
Yucca has wide, flat, light blue to gray leaves.
• Rarely over 1-foot tall and up to 2 feet wide, Twisted-Leaf Yucca is a
trunkless species that forms small clumps as it matures.
• Pale-Leaf Yucca is likewise small, rarely growing over 1-foot tall and up
to 2-2½ feet around, and also forms clumps of only a few rosettes. Both
species are especially effective when planted in groups.
o Most small Yuccas are not particular about soils, but all require
outstanding drainage.
o There are few pests or diseases that plague Yuccas, although
borers occasionally cause damage to the taller, more tree-like
forms.
o Yuccas hybridize in nature, creating some interesting and lovely
intergrade forms – many of which were the earliest introductions
of these species.■
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 25
• Another type of deterrent, such as CatStop, uses ultrasonic sound.
This device also employs a motion sensor to detect cats' presence;
it then emits a high-frequency sound alarm. The sound is startling
to cats but virtually inaudible to humans.
Stopping Cats in the Garden
As much as we love cats, they can be as annoying as deer, squirrels,
or other pests. Use these tips to deter them from your garden.
Peggy Ann Montgomery | Better Homes & Gardens |
• Scent repellents, well known to gardeners for detracting deer, can
also be helpful in deterring cats. Reviews on scent repellents'
success are mixed. Many store-bought repellents rely on
capsaicin, the chemical that makes chile peppers hot. Some
repellents, such as Shake-Away, use the scent of predators' urine
to scare away cats. With any scent repellent, you will need to
reapply it every seven to 10 days or after a heavy rain. After a few
applications, the odor may send your feline visitors looking
elsewhere.
For gardeners who are cat lovers, the topic of cats in the garden is a
delicate one. But when feral cats (or your neighbors' pets) use your
garden as a litter box, you have a problem.
Ø The most serious aspect of the problem is a health risk: Cats can be
a host for Toxoplasma gondii, a parasite that can be transmitted to
humans from cat feces. This parasite is particularly dangerous to
pregnant women and immune-suppressed individuals. Make it a
practice to wear gloves while gardening—and keep your child's
sandbox covered.
Ø Another concern about cats that roam outdoors is the damage they
can do to the songbird population. There are an estimated 80
million house cats and 120 million feral cats in the United States today.
Cats are predators, and even well-fed, seemingly lazy house pets are
instinctual hunters. While the exact number is not known, hundreds of
thousands of songbirds are likely killed by cats annually in the United
States. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service estimates the number is
even higher, and that is sad news for the bird lovers among us.
There are also a number of DIY home remedies worth trying.
They might take a little time, but they cost next to nothing.
• One recipe calls for 2 parts cayenne pepper, 3 parts dry mustard,
and 5 parts flour. Simply mix the ingredients together and sprinkle
over your flowerbeds.
So what can be done to keep peace with our neighbors and
unwanted cats out of our yards? There is hope. Let's take a look at
some products on the market today and some low-tech repellents we can
mix up at home.
• You can buy motion-activated sprinklers such as ScareCrow brand.
When a cat enters the sprinkler's infrared field, the sprinkler shoots out
a stream of water in the cat's direction to frighten it away. Everyone
knows that cats don't like water, and this method can quickly teach cats
to stay away. (Or if you're in the garden a lot, you can do it the oldfashioned way by spraying cats with your garden hose when you see
them trespassing in your yard.)
• Cats don't like the smell of citrus, so putting down peels or citrus
oils may make cats think twice about digging in your garden.
• Coleus canina, otherwise known as ‘scaredy cat’ plant, is reported
to deter cats, as do rue and lavender.
• Placing mothballs around plants, an old method of keeping cats
and rabbits at bay, might be effective, but they are toxic to
humans and animals and should never be used in the
garden.¢
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 26
FRUIT AND (NUTS)* FOR
NEW MEXICO ORCHARDS
NMSU Guide H-310
Cooperative Extension Service
Revised by Shengrul Yao & Richard Heerema
*Nuts will be covered in the November 2016
Master Gardener Magazine.
INTRODUCTION: Fruit and nut trees are a fun and rewarding addition to
backyard landscapes throughout New Mexico. They have beautiful
flowers, leaves, and fruit; provide much needed cooling shade; serve as
habitat and food for birds and other wildlife; and, most importantly,
produce healthful and delicious food. Nevertheless, some fruit/nut species
and varieties are not well adapted to New Mexico’s climate and soil
conditions. Late spring frosts occur frequently in all areas of the state,
injuring the flowers and young fruits of early flowering species.
In the north and at high altitudes, minimum winter temperatures limit the
species that can be successfully planted. Low relative humidity and drying
winds may desiccate plants. The life expectancy of many trees may be
limited by exposure to high sunlight intensity. New Mexico soils, in
general, are alkaline, often resulting in mineral element deficiencies. Both
soil and irrigation water may be high in soluble salts.
The following discussion covers some problems likely to be
encountered with various species, areas of adaptation, and a number
of recommended varieties.
Our goal is to equip backyard orchardists in New Mexico with the
knowledge they need to get the most enjoyment and productivity out of
their fruit and nut trees. In general, for tree fruit/nut species, late-blooming
and non-uniform varieties with some late flowers will have a better chance
of producing a crop than uniform and early blooming varieties.
APRICOTS: Apricot trees are adapted to alkaline soils, and usually
mineral element deficiencies are not a problem. Trees are relatively longlived. They have attractive leaves and are useful as small shade trees.
Apricots flower after almonds but early enough to be injured frequently by
late spring frosts. Young fruits seem to be more susceptible to frost injury
than almonds, plums, or peaches.
Full crops occur in southern areas about one in five years and less
frequently in colder areas. Home gardeners in northern New Mexico can
consider apricots as shade trees that produce fruit only occasionally.
Planting in a protected area will increase the chances of producing fruit.
‘Perfection’ is among the earliest to bloom and so is especially vulnerable
to late frosts. The flower buds of ‘Sunglo’, ‘Harglow’, and ‘Harlayne’ are
more winter-hardy than ‘Perfection’, ‘Puget Gold’, and ‘Goldcot’. Fruit set
for most cultivars benefits from, but does not require, a pollinizer.
‘Perfection’ needs a pollinizer.
European Plum Fruits
PLUMS: Japanese plums flower about the same time as apricots, but young
fruits are a little more cold-tolerant, and production is more reliable in
southern areas of the state. It is hard to get a crop of Japanese plums in
northern New Mexico. Most varieties need cross-pollination (two different
varieties need to be planted).
‘Methley’ is self-fruiting (can pollinate itself) and more frost-tolerant than
most varieties. Other tolerant varieties are ‘Santa Rosa’ and ‘Satsuma’. Two
hybrids that are reliable are ‘Gold’ and ‘Sepa’. Japanese plums are shortlived and frequently chlorotic (iron deficient) in NM because of high soil pH.
European plums (the blue/purple ones in general) flower later than
Japanese types and more frequently escape frost injury. They are
recommended for northern New Mexico and high elevations. Recommended
varieties are ‘Early Blue’, ‘Castleton’, and ‘Stanley’.
In general, their performance has been poor in southern New Mexico.
Pluots, plumcots, apriplums, and apriums are all hybrids of apricots and
plums. Apriums and apriplums taste more like apricots, while pluots and
plumcots taste like plums. They all have intense sweetness. The trees are
also similar to apricots/plums, and are still vulnerable to late frosts.
‘China Pearl’ Peach
PEACHES: Peach trees are short-lived in all areas of New Mexico, with an
average life of 10–15 years. Painting the trunks with exterior white latex paint
or kaolin clay to reflect the winter sun reduces sunscald and prolongs life
(this also applies to other fruit/nut species).
Annual pruning (to promote compact trees) protects the main branches
from burning. Iron deficiency may be a problem, especially on sandy soils.
Peaches flower about two weeks before apples. Full crops should be
expected once every three to five years.
Based on a variety trial at Alcalde, New Mexico, ‘Sureprince’, ‘Challenger’,
and ‘Saturn’ were the earliest to bloom, while ‘China Pearl’ (shown above),
‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar’ were the late bloomers among the 20
varieties tested. Overall, ‘PF-1’, ‘Surecrop’, ‘Blazingstar’, ‘Intrepid’,
‘Contender’, ‘Blushingstar’, ‘China Pearl’, and ‘Encore’ are recommended for
central and northern New Mexico.
Article Continues on Page 27
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 27
Fruits & Nuts for NM Orchards—Continued From Page 26
Fruits of Sour Cherries
CHERRIES: Both sweet and sour cherry trees are short-lived and
perform poorly in hot southern areas. They are recommended only for
cooler areas (northern New Mexico) or high-elevation areas in the
southern part of New Mexico.
However, sweet cherries flower early and are vulnerable to late
frosts. ‘Bing’, ‘Rainier’, and ‘Lambert’ require cross-pollination.
‘Whitegold’, ‘Stella’, ‘Blackgold’, and ‘Lapins’ are all self-fruiting.
‘Blackgold’ is a late bloomer.
Sour cherries bloom later and have a longer blooming period than
sweet cherries. Sour cherries are less vulnerable to late frosts and
always have a better crop than sweet cherries.
‘Montmorency’ is the main variety. ‘Balaton’ and ‘Danube’ are redflesh varieties and do well in northern New Mexico.
‘Gala” Apple Fruit
APPLES: Apples require numerous scheduled sprayings to control
worms (codling moth) and other pests. Apples also need another apple
cultivar or crabapple as pollinizer. Although apple trees flower later than
most fruit species, late spring frost injury occurs frequently in all areas
except southern New Mexico.
‘Rome’ is late-flowering. ‘Golden Delicious’ flowers and fruits are
slightly more frost-tolerant than ‘Red Delicious’ because it blooms less
uniformly and has some late flowers. ‘Rome’ is not recommended for
warmer areas of the state. ‘Arkansas Black’ (a late-maturing variety),
are recommended for central and northern New Mexico. ‘Mutsu’ and
‘Granny Smith’ do better in the southern part of the state.
southern half of the state. ‘Jonathan’, and ‘Winesap’
‘Bartlett’ Pear Fruit
PEARS: Just like apples, pears also need pollinizers and a spray
program to manage wormy fruit. Pears flower after peaches and before
apples. They are adapted to all areas, but production is better in southern
New Mexico.
There has been no formal pear variety trial in New Mexico, but
scattered plantings indicated that ‘Bartlett’ (shown above) always has
some fruit even in years with severe late frosts.
Other suggested varieties are ‘D’Anjou’, ‘Bosc’, ‘Comice’, and ‘Seckel’.
Pear varieties on dwarfing rootstocks are recommended over standard
trees.
Asian Pears also do well in New Mexico. While there has not yet been a
formal cultivar trial for Asian pears, the varieties ‘20th Century’ (aka
‘Nijisseiki’), ‘Hosui’, ‘Kikusui’, ‘Kosui’, ‘Niitaka’, ‘Shinko’, ‘Shinseiki’,
‘Yakumo’, and ‘Yoinashi’ have all been grown successfully in New Mexico
backyards.
GRAPES: There are three main species or types of grapes that will grow
in New Mexico. European (California) varieties are not entirely winterhardy in northern New Mexico and should be planted only in southern
areas, unless winter protection is given.
American varieties are cold-tolerant, but some, such as ‘Concord’,
become chlorotic in alkaline soil. French hybrids and American hybrids do
better in northern New Mexico.
Recommended table grape varieties for northern New Mexico are
‘Himrod’, ‘Reliance’, ‘Venus’, and ‘Jupiter’. Southern New Mexico has
more choices for table grapes and wine grapes; please contact your
County Cooperative Extension for more information.
Article Continues on Page 28
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Fruits & Nuts for NM Orchards—Continued From Page 27
PERSIMMONS: Persimmons are not a very popular fruit tree in New Mexico.
However, persimmon trees can be an attractive addition to the home
orchard; they have large, dark green leaves throughout the summer, and are
particularly striking in late fall when the large fruits hanging on the trees look
almost like bright orange Christmas tree ball ornaments. Growing
persimmons can be especially enjoyable since diseases and pests of
persimmons are not a major concern in New Mexico.
The fruit of some persimmon varieties remain extremely astringent (bitter)
and inedible unless properly ripened. Fruit from these astringent varieties
look completely ripe on the tree, but after they are harvested they must be
stored for several weeks at room temperature until they soften and lose their
astringency. Although most people will agree that persimmons’ sweet flavor
is exquisite, some do not enjoy the jelly- or custard-like texture of fully
ripened fruit of astringent varieties.
The fruit of other varieties (called “non-astringent varieties”) lose their
astringency as they ripen on the tree and may be eaten crisp immediately
after harvest. Fruit of astringent persimmon varieties are typically used for
cooking and baking, while that of non-astringent varieties is most often eaten
fresh out of hand.
Oriental or Kaki persimmons, which originated in China, Korea, and
Japan, are the most common persimmons in home orchards in southern
New Mexico. Unless planted in a particularly well-protected area, the most
popular Oriental persimmon tree varieties, such as ‘Hachiyea’ (astringent),
‘Eureka’ (astringent), ‘Fuyu’ (non-astringent), and ‘Jiro’ (non-astringent) are
limited to the warmest areas of New Mexico, and even there these varieties
will be injured by mid-winter freezes or spring frosts in some years.
For those wishing to plant in cooler parts of New Mexico, some Oriental
persimmon varieties that have been noted for having exceptional coldhardiness are ‘Great Wall’, ‘Sheng’, and ‘Saijo’ (all astringent varieties).
Varieties of the American persimmon species (whose native range includes
the southeastern and mid-Atlantic states), such as ‘Meader’ and American x
Oriental hybrids such as ‘Rosseyanka’, can be much more cold-hardy than
Oriental persimmons and are the best choice for areas of New Mexico with
colder winters and shorter summers.
Oriental persimmon varieties are usually able to produce fruit without
cross-pollination. In fact, cross-pollination is considered undesirable by some
orchardists because it results in seeded fruit, which, depending on the
variety, may develop darkened chocolate-colored flesh. Certain American
persimmon varieties are self-fruiting and require no cross-pollination, while
others require planting of a second variety for pollination in order to set fruit.
Page 28
FIGS: Fig trees are a beautiful addition to southern and central New
Mexico backyard orchards. Their large leaves give yards a lush
tropical appearance, and the sweet fruit are wonderful for fresh
eating, drying, fruit leathers, baking, jams, and canning.
Fig trees can produce two fruit crops per year: the “breba” crop in
the spring and “main” crop in summer.
There are few pest or disease issues for figs in New Mexico. The
primary limitation for figs is low winter or spring temperatures that
may sometimes partially or completely kill fig tree canopies, even in
southern New Mexico. If the roots were not killed during winter, fig
trees that have experienced freezing temperatures usually grow back
vigorously and can even produce some main crop fruit in the first
year of regrowth.
Figs are grown on their own roots (not grafted onto a rootstock), so
the variety remains true even after the tree grows back from the root.
In central New Mexico, outdoor trees should be planted in a protected
area and mulched or tarped to minimize freeze damage.
For backyard growers in colder areas of the state, fig trees can be
grown in large portable containers and moved indoors during winter.
‘Celeste’, ‘Brown Turkey’, ‘Hardy Chicago’, ‘Desert King’, ‘Kadota’,
and ‘Violette de Bordeaux’ are only a few of the fig varieties that can
be grown in New Mexico. ‘Black Mission’ is a readily available fig
variety in the nursery trade, but is not very cold-hardy and, therefore,
may not be the best variety choice for outdoor planting in most New
Mexico backyards.
In general, backyard fig varieties require no cross-pollination to
produce fruit, but there are some varieties, such as ‘Calimyrna’, that
require the presence of a nearby pollinizer tree (called a “caprifig,”
which produces no edible fruit) and specialized fig wasp pollinators to
set fruit.
BLUEBERRIES: The optimal soil pH
for blueberries is 5–5.5. It is almost
impossible to grow blueberries in the
alkaline, calcareous soils of New Mexico
unless they are grown in containers with
potting mix under special care.
Article Continues on Page 29
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 29
Fruits & Nuts for NM Orchards—Continued From Page 28
BERRIES: Bramble fruits (e.g., blackberries and raspberries) and
strawberries can be difficult to grow in the warmer areas of New
Mexico. Production is typically poor, and it is difficult to maintain fruiting
wood on brambles.
Everbearing strawberries may be grown on raised beds in partial
shade with mulch and frequent irrigations. Boysenberries are the bestperforming brambles for southern New Mexico. Black currants, grown
with protection from afternoon sun, are sometimes profitable. Growing
berries is usually more successful in northern New Mexico or highelevation areas. Semi-trailing blackberries like ‘Triple Crown’ and
‘Chester’ are acceptable, but in some years they can experience severe
winter damage in northern New Mexico.
For the freestanding varieties, ‘Navajo’ did not perform well in highpH (alkaline) soil. ‘Natchez’ and ‘Ouachita’ did better than ‘Navajo’.
Raspberries do not like hot summers. They can grow in northern New
Mexico and high-elevation areas. Fall raspberries like ‘Polana’,
‘Caroline’, and ‘Joan J’ are recommended. ‘Polana’ has smaller fruit and
a shorter growing season, and is suitable for high elevations with
shorter growing seasons; ‘Caroline’ is productive and matures later in
the season; and ‘Joan J’ is a mid-season, thornless variety with big fruit.
In northern New Mexico, based on a strawberry variety trial at
Alcalde, ‘Mesabi’, ‘Kent’, and ‘Cavendish’ did better than other varieties.
‘Allstar’, ‘Chandler’, and ‘Darselect’ are sensitive to high-pH soil and
showed significant leaf chlorosis, which should be avoided in variety
selection. Growers do need to monitor for leaf chlorosis, but it can be
corrected with application of FeEDDHA (a chelated iron product).
Strawberry flowers are vulnerable to late frosts, but complete yield loss
rarely happens because late flowers will compensate the early loss from
late frosts.
Gooseberries like ‘Hinomaki’ and ‘Invicta’ did well at Alcalde.
Black currant ‘Randal’ is productive in northern New Mexico, and the
fruit quality is good for fresh eating or processing.
Jujube Fruits
JUJUBES: Jujubes, also called Chinese dates leaf out 4–6 weeks later
than most tree fruit species. Jujubes are not frost-tolerant, but their growth
habits allow them to avoid late frosts in most years. Jujubes rarely miss a
crop even in years with severe late frosts. They also adapt well to the
alkaline soils and hot, semi-arid climate of New Mexico.
Commercial production is limited, but there are scattered plantings from
Alcalde all the way to Las Cruces. They all grow and produce well. So far,
there are no pest or disease problems for jujubes in New Mexico.
With its nutritious fruit, late start-up, wide adaption, and freedom from
pests/disease, jujubes are a good choice for home orchardists.
In northern areas, growers should avoid the late-maturing varieties
since the early frost limits the length of the growing season.
For southern New Mexico, all varieties perform well. ‘Li’ and ‘Lang’ are
the two most popular varieties; ‘GA866’ and ‘Sugarcane’ are also
available. ‘Sherwood’ is too late for northern New Mexico. ‘So’ is an
ornamental variety, but exhibits winter damage in some years in northern
New Mexico.
We are evaluating jujube varieties at Alcalde and will recommend more
varieties after a few more years’ observation. As a precaution, Jujube
trees do have thorns and occasional suckers.¢
This article will be continued in our November 2016 Master Gardener
Magazine and cover nuts: Almonds, Pecans, and Pistachios
Original Author: Esteban Herrera, Extension Horticulturist
Assistant Professor
Shengrui Yao
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
—U.S.D.A. INVASIVE PLANTS—
Texas Blueweed
(Helianthus ciliaris DC.)
Source: USDA Invasive Plants & Weeds of the National Forests & Grasslands in the Southwest
Region, Second Edition, December 2013
Family:
Aster (Asteraceae)
Description:
Erect perennial forb 1 to 2 feet tall, with bluish-green foliage and woody creeping roots; new
shoots arising from root buds often create dense patches; plant has a strong pungent odor,
especially when crushed.
Habitat:
Cultivated and disturbed or degraded moist open sites in meadows, grassland, woodland,
forest, and riparian communities and roadsides; grows best on alkaline or saline soils within
elevations that generally range from 3,000 to 8,500 feet.
Leaves:
The sessile leaves are typically glabrous or hairy on the margins, sessile, bluish-green,
covered with a whitish film, mostly opposite, oblong to lanceolate, 1 to 1 1/16 to 4 inches
long; margins are wavy, entire to shallowly lobed; stems often sparsely covered with short
stiff hairs.
Flowers:
Flowers June to November; showy composite flower heads solitary on long peduncles;
flower head receptacles 9/16 to 1-inch across; group of disk flowers rounded on top,
yellowish; yellow ray flower corollas about 3/8 inch long; disk flower corollas about 3/16 inch
long with red lobes; receptacle chaffy bracts hairy at the tips, entire or 3-lobed.
Fruit:
Similar to those of commercial sunflower; however, achenes much smaller, about 1/8 inch
long; pappus scales 2 to 4, about 1/16 inch long.
Propagation:
Reproduces by vegetative clones from root buds and by seed; see viability is often low,
bout 1 percent.
Impact:
Texas Blueweed is an aggressive perennial sunflower that is native to the grasslands of
south central United States. It naturally persists in low densities in native grasslands, but
thrives in cultivated or heavily disturbed areas. Arizona prohibited/restricted noxious weed.
Page 30
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 31
Yucca
True Mountain Mahogany*
(Cercocarpus montanus Raf.)
Source: New Mexico Rangeland Plants, NMSU Circular 374
Revised by Christopher D. Allison & Nick Ashcroft, Nov. 2011
Description: Bushy shrub. Two to 10 feet high. Broadly oval leaves up
to 2 inches long and 1-inch wide. Mostly evergreen.
Leaves usually wedge-shaped at the base, edges
triangularly toothed on the upper two-thirds, thickly
veined, and hairy on the underside. Fruits have a
feathery tail up to 4-inches long. Occurrence: Most abundant at higher elevations in the piñon pine and
juniper woodland and ponderosa pine zones of the
mountains. Occurs on breaks and gravelly, stoney, and
cinder sites at 4,500 to 9,5000 feet in elevation.
Forage Value & Management:
True Mountain Mahogany rates as good to very good
browse for all livestock. This is one of the most valuable
winter feeds for deer. It withstands grazing well.
*Hairy Mountain Mahogany (Cerocarpus breviflorus
Gary) shown below is similar in forage value and
distribution but has smaller leaves (about one inch long
or less) with smooth edges.¢
(Yucca spp.)
Source: New Mexico Rangeland Plants, NMSU Circular 374
Revised by Christopher D. Allison & Nick Ashcroft, Nov. 2011
Description: Shrubs. Bases and stem heavy. Leaves slender,
dagger-like, spine-tipped. Large flowers with creamy
white petals bloom in large clusters on stalks rising
from the center of the plant. Striking plants, most
frequently associated with the desert in art and
literature.
Occurrence: Yucca elata Engelm or Soaptree Yucca, is most
common in the southern New Mexico desert. Often
associated with Black Gamma range. Grows on stalks
3 to 20 feet tall (occasionally 30 feet), Y. glauca Nutt.,
(small Soapweed), is found primarily in the high plains
and central plateau. It is usually less than 4 feet tall
and does not grow on stalks.
Forage Value & Management:
The main grazing value of the Yuccas is the highly
palatable, succulent flowers produced in May and
June. During prolonged drought, the plants serve as
valuable emergency maintenance feed when chopped
or shredded and fed with protein supplement.¢
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 32
MASTER GARDENER MONTHLY MEETING – September 14, 2016
Introduction and Welcome – Jeff Anderson ² Notetaker: Ann Shine-Ring Certified MG
Introduction and Welcome – Jeff Anderson
• Jeff Anderson welcomed everyone to the meeting. Currently, he is preparing his Annual Report. In the future, he will be requesting more volunteer
help in the community events we sponsor. At the State Fair, we will be presenting the Rainwater presentations and will have stations to show about
soil conservation. It’s anticipated that 270 children will be attending these presentations. We will need a number of volunteers for the 10am to 12
noon timeline on Thursday, Sept. 28 and Friday, Sept. 29.
• The date for the Apple Orchard Event has been moved to Sept. 18th. No MG volunteers will be needed.
• Office Move: Jeff stated we will be packing up books and labeling boxes that can be put away instead of using them at our new location because we
will be moving into a much smaller set of offices. Our timeline for the move is November/December 2016. Our new address will be 1170 North
Solano Drive, Las Cruces, NM 88001.
MG Hotline (David and Gail Ross) David thanked the small group of MGs who continue to support our Hotline, month after month. Signups for October
Hotline are needed. Jeff stated that any house calls related to the Hotline function would need to be limited. The public will be encouraged to bring in
sample specimens for identification.
Dael Goodman stated that a new community radio station has begun. Perhaps, we could offer a regular Hotline-related program.
Magazine (Ann-Shine-Ring) Ann reviewed her proposed articles for our October 2016 MG monthly magazine. She also requested articles and ideas
for our upcoming magazines. You may send her a suggested article or just a link. (Email: [email protected])
Plant-of-the-Month: Cholla Cactus
Gardener Interest Articles:
Books:
Garden App:
Wildlife & Birds:
Insects & Bees:
Veggie/Fruit:
·
USDA Invasive Weeds/Plants:
Rangeland Trees & Shrubs:
Tropical Plant-of-the-Month: Anthurium Water-Wise Plant-of-the-Month: Beargrass
How To Plant New Roses in Fall
Gardening Success Factors: Light, Soil Type & Soil pH
Small-Space Gardens
Sunflowers
Small Yuccas for the Garden
Oldest Trees on Earth
Perennial Vegetables
Top Six Gardening apps
Stopping Cats in the Garden
Attract Pollinators All Season
Bee Garden Basics
Fruits & Nuts For NM Orchardss
Texas Blueweed
True Mountain Mahogany and Yucca
OLD/CONTINUING/NEW BUSINESS:
• Luna County MG News (Ann Shine-Ring) There are 6 students. On Sept. 22nd they will be begin their sixth workshop. The topic will be Composting.
• Mesilla Valley Bosque (Sherm Levenson) Sherm announced that they are building a hoop house. Also, on the second Thursday of every month
from 2:00 to 4:00pm, the Bosque volunteers are conducting different “chile cooking” classes with a maximum of 25 people for each class. Cost: $5
• Community Gardens (Dixie LaRock) The Munson Center garden lost some squash to squash bugs. Now they are preparing to harvest eggplant,
cucumbers and lettuce.
• SNMSF (9/27-10/2) – Gail and David Ross mentioned that there are signup sheets in the back for all of the MG-related activities. Please sign up for
the September days to get credit for 2016 hours. Gail’s email is [email protected] if people wish to contact her relative to the schedules. The
State Fair website is snmstatefairgrounds.net where there is information on all aspects of the fair.
• NM State MG Conference (9/16-18 – Santa Fe location) The Conference website is Sfmga.org/2016-conference. Jeff, Juliet, Donna, Bonnie Hoover,
and Ann were planning to attend. Jeff mentioned that the 2018 State MG Conference could be hosted by DAC Master Gardeners. More discussion
on this topic will be needed.
• Butterfly Flutterfly (Juliet Williams) Juliet stated that this event was wonderful. The Asombro Institute that sponsors this event thanked the MG
Volunteers.
• Las Cruces City Plaza (Jeff Anderson) Although a committee of experts was established to provide input on what native plants and trees should be
planted on the new Plaza, the ‘powers that be’ totally ignored these recommendations. Joan cited the Comprehensive Uniform Code that listed
appropriate plants that should have been used.
• Other: Joan Woodward announced that NMSU is still seeking an ACES Horticulturist replacement for Curtis Smith. Also, she invited MG’s to check
out the landscape plants near the University (near the Green Roof research display.)
• Howie Dash, a member of the Mesilla Valley Garden Club stated that there would be no 2017 Tour of Gardens. The groups that had worked on this
event felt it should be discontinued unless other volunteers agree to help with this huge annual undertaking.
• CoCoRaHS (Dael Goodman) Dael stated that this group recently held a “Meet & Greet” and it went very well.
Minutes Continued on Page 33
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—October 2016
Page 33
September 14, 2016 Monthly MG Meeting Minutes—Continued from Page 32
OLD/CONTINUING/NEW BUSINESS (Continued):
Educational Presenter: Howie Dash Topic: Planting a Labyrinth in the Garden
▼
Our next monthly meeting will be on Wednesday, November 9, 2016 at 9:15 at Branigan Library, Roadrunner Room
IMPORTANT CLARIFICATION
Jeff Anderson responded to concerns about MG monthly meetings not counting toward Community Education hours for MG Interns.
Unfortunately the rules state that MG Interns cannot count attendance at our monthly meetings toward their required 50 volunteer hours in order to
qualify as Certified MGs. So, Interns still need 25 hours of Hotline duty and 25 hours of Community Education.
Any questions, please contact Jeff Anderson, DAC Ag Agent at email: [email protected] and phone (575) 525.6649
LUNA COUNTY MASTER GARDENER HOTLINES
Deming (At Extension Office)
Thursdays 9:00-11:00am
(575) 546-8806
Columbus (At Library)
Mondays 10:30-11:30am
(575) 531-2612
MASTER GARDENER HOTLINE DUTY
As of September 11, 2013, per MG request, Hotline duty signups will no longer be listed
in this Magazine. As of 1/8/14, we now can sign up for Hotline Duty online at the same
website location where we now record our Volunteer Service hours.
Connect to link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/county/donaana/mastergardener/ and click on
Volunteer Hours Logging and you can click on either:
“Go to my log sheets” or “Go to my Calendar”
We are very grateful to Eric Graham, Certified MG, for donating many hours to
create this great new resource for MGs. Thank you!
IMPORTANT:
Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG forgets, please give him or her a “reminder”
call. Be sure to get a copy of the Subs List, for your information.
As of Monday, March 11, 2013, the Doña Ana County Extension Office hours changed to 9am–12 for receiving public
phone calls and office visits Monday through Friday. However, Hotline volunteers will still be on duty from 9am to 1pm
on Tuesdays and Fridays. Remember, the Extension Office is closed from 12 noon to 1:00pm daily for staff lunches.
URGENT:
We need at least 2 MGs at each Hotline Day, but please no more than four MG volunteers max as there is not enough
room in the Hotline Office. Please consider volunteering for at least one, four-hour assignment to ensure we have
adequate coverage for our Hotline. Thank you for your help.