January 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
PO Box 548,
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289,
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
2010 Class
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips for February
“Crabgrass can grow on
bowling balls in airless rooms,
and there is no known way to
kill it that does not involve
nuclear weapons.”
~Dave Barry~
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meetings
•
•
Saturday March 6, 2010 11:00 AM Dunlap Mountain Valley Bank
Pot Luck lunch to welcome the 2010 Class at 12:00 Noon
Saturday May 1, 2010 details later
Vegetable Workshop
March 27 8:30 to 12:30 Mountain Valley Bank Dunlap
Conifers for Gardeners
Saturday, February 27, 2010 8:30 AM – 5:00 PM
A 1-Day Symposium on how to grow and use conifers in the mid-South.
See article on last page of newsletter.
Sequatchie County Fair
July 19-24, 2010 (This is a whole month earlier!)
Sequatchie Valley Master Gardener 2010 Class
January 14 – Introduction Sheldon Barker and J. C. Rains
January 21 – Soils Sheldon Barker
January 28 – Botany Tom Stebbins
February 4 – Landscaping and Tree Care Dr Airhart and Patrick Haller
February 11 – Diseases – Tom Stebbins
February 18 – Perennials Ruth Baumgardner
February 25 – Insects Grant Palmer
March 4 –Vegetables TBA
March 11 – Spring Break
March 18 – Organics Donna Cunningham
March 25 – Fruits Dr. Lockwood
April 1 – Herbs Donna Cunningham
April 8 – Turf Mike Payne
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
UT Extension and 4-H Launch Yearlong Centennial Celebration
Calendar year 2010 marks a century of University
of Tennessee Extension and 4-H in Tennessee. That’s
100 years of educational outreach and service to the
state’s farmers, families and youth to enhance their
quality of life.
Extension and 4-H in Tennessee predate the
passage of the 1914 Smith-Lever Act through which
Congress established a national network of
professional agricultural
agents and family and
consumer scientists to
help in the education and
economic development
of rural America. In 1910,
two individuals were employed as county-based
agents to help with cotton production and home
canning, and in early 1911 the movement to help rural
Tennesseans on the farm and in the home spread to
six West Tennessee counties. On July 1, 1914, some
20 county agents, 22 home demonstration agents, and
eight additional staff and faculty were organized under
the Smith-Lever Act as part of the University of
Tennessee Division of Extension.
Today, as the outreach unit of the UT Institute of
Agriculture, UT Extension operates an office in every
county and delivers educational programs using
research-based information to farmers, families,
youth, and communities in both rural and urban
settings. Educational programs range from gardening
and landscaping to nutrition, animal health and family
money management. The programs are available to all
county residents often at no charge.
“For 100 years Extension agents have represented
a two-way link between Tennesseans and university
specialists, scientists and researchers,” says Dr. Tim
Cross, Dean of UT Extension. “That special relationship
and the education and economic development that it
fosters are the hallmarks of Extension,” he said.
“Last year UT Extension had more than 4.8 million
contacts with Tennessee citizens and the overall
economic impact of these activities returned more
than $343 million in estimated economic benefits,”
Cross said.
In announcing a yearlong Centennial Celebration
of Extension and 4-H to faculty and staff, Cross
emphasized the importance of commemorating 100
years of the organizations’ combined service to the
citizens of the state. “While the economy continues to
show little to no growth and additional state budget
reductions are likely, a centennial only happens once
in an organization’s history,” he said. “Recognizing this
unique opportunity, we will observe our Centennial
throughout 2010, acknowledging the anniversary
during our everyday programs. We will acknowledge
the many impacts we have made while being good
stewards of our financial resources.”
He hopes the celebration will also serve to
increase awareness of UT
Extension programs and
therefore expand their
outreach to new audiences,
including youth.
With the help of local
adult volunteers, Extension's 4-H youth development
program helps young people from 9 to 19 develop selfesteem, leadership and citizenship skills and gain
knowledge in a wide range of subjects. From health to
public speaking or photography or GPS tracking, 4-H
programs supplement traditional learning with
directed projects that encourage advanced education.
With nearly 302,000 members statewide, Tennessee
has one of the largest 4-H memberships in the nation.
In addition to school-based and local activities,
three 4-H camps throughout the state offer youth
summer camping experiences and school-based
outdoor science educational programs.
Throughout 2010 UT Extension and 4-H will
celebrate the organizations’ first century of
accomplishments. What might those include? Just one
example from the agronomic perspective is how
Extension education and better farming practices have
helped increase yields of corn in Tennessee from 25
bushels per acre during the early part of last century to
an average of 139 bushels per acre in 2009. USDA
statistics record that total corn production in the state
was the same in 2009 as it was in 1910 (80.6 million
bushels versus 82 million bushels). However, in 2009
only about one-fifth of the land was needed to
produce a similar harvest (about 3.3 million acres in
1910 versus about 590,000 acres in 2009).
Cross says each county will offer local activities
that will offer individuals a chance to join the
celebration. He hopes to involve all state residents in
Centennial celebration events. “We will be integrating
our celebration into our ongoing programs at the club,
county and state levels all year long,” he said.
“Everyone’s invited!”
http://utextension.tennessee.edu/100years
January 2010
2
January 2010 Plant of the Month –
American Arborvitae
Submitted by Dr. Susan Hamilton
The American Arborvitae (Thuja
occidentalis) is an easy and adaptable evergreen
that can thrive in almost any landscape
situation. Hundreds of cultivars have been
introduced which allow this native,
northeastern U.S. plant to fill almost any
landscape niche.
From miniature selections like ‘Mossy’
growing to just one foot tall and ‘Hetz Midget’
growing to two feet to ‘Green Giant’ growing up
to 30 feet tall, these plants can fulfill many uses
in the landscape. Cultivars also tolerate a range
of soil conditions. American arborvitae can be
found growing in the wild in swampy, damp
conditions as well as in the dry cracks and
crevices of rocky cliffs. It can equally tolerate a
range of light conditions, thriving in light-shade
to full-sun.
One of my favorite features of
American Arborvitae is its fine foliage texture.
The evergreen, scaly foliage grows in fan-like
sprays making for a soft, fine texture. Some
stellar selections are valued for their striking
foliage colors too like the bright gold foliage of
‘Yellow Ribbon’, ‘Lutea’, and ‘Sunkist’; the
orange-bronze color of ‘Rheingold’ and ‘Fire
Chief’; and the showy variegated foliage of
‘Sherwood Frost’ and ‘Wansdyke Silver’. I like
to have a gold or variegated selection in my
landscape to brighten up my winter garden.
Many different forms along with varied
sizes and colors allow for a range of landscape
uses of American arborvitae. For a privacy
screen and nice backdrop plant, you can’t beat
‘Green Giant’, ‘Smaragd’ ‘Emerald Green’, and
‘Degroot’s Spire’. Round and spherical forms
like ‘Bowling Ball’, ‘Rheingold’, and ‘Hetz
Midget’ make good foundation plants or good
decorative container plants. Pyramidal forms
such as ‘Emerald Green’, ‘Sunkist’, and ‘Yellow
Ribbon’ can make nice specimen or accent
plants.
For ideal performance, I recommend
growing American arborvitae in a well-drained
soil in full sun to part shade. Foliage density will
loosen up in too much shade. In hot and dry
weather, periodic, deep waterings are
advisable, especially when these plants are
grown as foundation plants. Maintain a good
three- to four-inch layer of mulch around the
plants. Fertilizer and pruning are not required,
which is another added benefit!
January 2010
3
Some Arborvitae selections are valued for
their striking colors
Fun facts
Another name for Thuja occidentalis is
Arborvitae (the tree of life). Legend has it
that Thuja was given this name because
Native Americans used a tea made from
the bark and foliage of this tree to save
explorer Jacques Cartier and his crew from
scurvy. Northern white-cedar is used
widely as an ornamental tree. If pruned, it
is capable of making a dense hedge.
Thuja Greek "thyia" (for a juniper or a
fragrant-wooded tree) from "thyo"
(perfume). occidentalis western - Latin
"occidere" (to set, as the sun).
Source:
http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/LandownerFactsheets/detai
l.cfm?genus=Thuja&species=occidentalis
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
February Gardening Tips
It has been cold maybe too cold to do any real work in the garden and yard. But these freezing snowy
days is a good time to spend indoors planning your summer garden. Peruse books, magazines, and
catalogs for ideas and inspiration. Additional information is also available in publications of the
University of Tennessee Extension, listed on the Web at
http://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/default.htm.
February is a good time to fertilize trees, shrubs and evergreens. It also is a good time to prune or shape
evergreens.
February through April is the ideal time to apply a combination of slow-release fertilizer and preemergent herbicide to control crabgrass in your lawn. Apply this combination before dandelions reach
the puff-ball stage.
Want to start your garden from scratch? February is a good time to start various annuals and vegetables
from seed. This can be fun and it’s a great way to introduce youngsters (and the young at heart) to
gardening. Seed starter kits are available in a variety of styles. Just follow the seed packet or seed
catalog instructions on timing and method.
February is the month for pruning. Make sure pruning tools are sharpened and cleaned in preparation
for next month.
2010 UT Field Days
Details for each will follow later
• Organic Crops Field Tour at the East Tennessee Research and Education Center — Organic Crops
Unit, April 29 at 7:30 a.m.
• Tennessee Healthy Hardwoods at the Forest Resources Research & Education Center —
Tullahoma, June 5 at 7:00 a.m.
• Fruits of the Backyard at the Middle Tennessee Research and Education Center, June 15 at 8:30 a.m.
• Summer Celebration at the West Tennessee Research and Education Center, July 8 at 10:00 a.m.
• Steak and Potatoes Field Day at the Plateau Research and Education Center, August 3 at 8:00 a.m.
• Turfgrass at the East Tennessee Research and Education Center — Plant Sciences Unit, September
16 at 7:30 a.m.
• Pumpkin West at the Tennessee Research and Education Center, September 30 at 1:00 p.m.
SPECIAL EVENTS
• Fall Gardener's Festival at the Plateau Research and Education Center, August 31 at 10:00 a.m.
• Heritage Festival at the Research and Education Center at Ames Plantation, October 9 at 9:00 a.m.
• Fall Folklore Jamboree at the Research and Education Center at Milan, October 16 at 9 a.m.
January 2010
4
Home Remedies and Fire Ants
By Sheldon Barker
I received an email the other day saying that club soda was a remedy for fire ants. The email even
quotes Walter Reeves from the University of Georgia. The email said:
Simply pour two cups of CLUB SODA (carbonated water)
directly in the center of a fire ant mound. The carbon dioxide in
the water is heavier than air and displaces the oxygen, which
suffocates the queen and the other ants. The whole colony will
be dead within about two days. Besides eliminating the
ants, club soda leaves no poisonous residue, does not
contaminate the ground water, and does not indiscriminately
kill other insects. It is not harmful to your pets, soaks into
the ground. Each mound must be treated individually and a Lateral view of a worker of the red
imported fire ant,
one-liter bottle of club soda will kill 2 to 3 mounds.
Solenopsis invicta Buren.
My first reply to the email was that it would not work. It would
Photograph by: David Almquist,
University of Florida
simply make the ants move somewhere else. Since then the
www.eXension.org
www.eXentsion.org web site (a consortium of University Extension
personnel from across the U.S.) began to collect information on this topic.
Texas Extension entomologist, Elizabeth Brown tested club soda in a replicated study this summer
(2009) with no results. She reported on her blog, "...pouring club soda onto a fire ant mound did not
lead to the ants dying a horrendous death; it did however produce lots of impressive bubbling action.” I
don’t think the fire ants would have been as impressed with the bubbling as Mrs. Brown (http://urbanipm.blogspot.com/).
As for Walter Reeves he is retired from the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service and
hosts radio and TV programs, and does not endorse club soda as a means to control fire ants. He
suggests baits and mound treatments.
(http://www.walterreeves.com/insects_animals/article.phtml?cat=21&id=1031)
There are many household products which some claim will control fire ants. The list includes
chlorine bleach, ammonia, gasoline, various detergents, plaster of Paris and drain cleaners.
These are not labeled or recommended for control of any type of pest. Some of the choices are
dangerous to the applicator, pets, children and wildlife. A few fire ants may be killed but they generally
only cause the ants to move to another location.
As a Master Gardener, the best recommendation you can make for controlling fire ants is what we
call the “two-step” method. Using a bait followed 7 to 10 days later with a drench. Contact the
extension office if you need more details or check out the on-line publications at
http://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/homeGarden/default.asp#fireants
Sources:
“Fire Ant Home Remedies Becoming Urban Myths”
www.extension.org/pages/Fire_Ant_Home_Remedies_Becoming
_Urban_Myths
“Club soda kills fire ants? I don't think so!” http://urbanipm.blogspot.com/
Black imported fire ants Clemson University - USDA
Cooperative Extension Slide Series, Bugwood.org
January 2010
5
Conifers for Gardeners
A 1-Day Symposium on how to grow and use conifers in the mid-South
Saturday, February 27, 2010 8:30 AM – 5:00 PM
Location: University of Tennessee Visitor Center and the UT Gardens, 2712 Neyland Drive, Knoxville, TN,
37996
Society Members $40; UT Gardens Members $40; Non-members $45.
Register on line at https://web.dii.utk.edu/agStore/pc-2709-2412-conifers-for-gardenerssymposium.aspx or call 865-974-8265.
For directions: http://admissions.utk.edu/undergraduate/visit/directions.shtml American Conifer
Come and learn about some of the most beautiful and low maintenance plants you can have in your
garden. The day includes educational seminars teaching you how to grow and design your garden with
conifers combined with a guided walk through the UT Gardens conifer collection. This exciting
symposium will conclude with an exclusive conifer plant sale of some of the most beautiful and choice
selections for the mid-South.
•
•
•
•
Symposium includes lunch, education, tour and sale. 8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
The UT Gardens are an official American Conifer Society Reference Garden
An ACS Reference Garden Grant provides funding in support of this symposium
For more information call 865-974-7972 or e-mail [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> or
http://utgardens.tennessee.edu/ <http://utgardens.tennessee.edu/>
8:30
8:45
9:45
10:00
10:45
11:30
12:30
1:15
2:00
2:15
3:00
Welcome – Duane Ridenour
"Go Cone Crazy: A Craving for Conifers” - Flo Chaffin
Break
“Great Conifers Worth Knowing from the ACS West TN Reference Garden” - Jason Reeves
“Great Conifers Worth Knowing from the ACS East TN Reference Garden” – Andy Pulte
Buffet lunch
“Hiding From the Neighbors: Green Privacy Screening” – Hugh Conlon
“How To Use Conifers and Companion Plants in the Landscape” - Sue Hamilton
Break
Guided walk thru the UT Gardens Conifer Collection – Sue Hamilton, Andy Pulte, Jason Reeves &
Duane Ridenour
Conifer Plant Sale
January 2010
6
2010 Vegetable Gardening Workshop
Rising food prices, concerns about food safety and hard economic times have created unparalleled
interest in learning more about backyard vegetable gardening. The public’s interest in vegetable
gardening and the Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners (SVMG) commitment to community service
leads to a repetition of the successful Vegetable Gardening Workshops conducted in 2009. Topics and
session titles are essentially the same as those used in 2009 in Pikeville and Dunlap. However, in 2010
there will be a single Workshop and the lengths of the various sessions differ slightly. A summary of
the planned workshop follows.
The Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners in conjunction with Bledsoe and Sequatchie
County Extension Offices will conduct a 4 hour Workshop on Saturday morning, March 27th
at the Mountain Valley Bank Summit Room in Dunlap.
The Workshop will begin at 8:30 AM and end at 12:50 PM with a 20 minute break. The
first two sessions of 50 and 65 minutes, respectively, will be followed by the 20 minute
break. The session immediately following the break will last 55 fifty minutes, followed by
the final 60 minutes presentation. The program will conclude with five minute evaluation.
8:20 AM – 8:30 AM
Registration & Distribution of Pamphlets
8:30 AM – 8:35 AM
Welcome, Introductions and Preliminary Remarks
Sophia Gabalski, Master Gardener and President SVMG
Association
Sessions and Schedule
1.
8:35 AM – 9:25 AM
Site Selection, Soil Preparation, Planning & Planting
Presenter – John Formby, Master Gardener
2.
9:25 AM – 10:30 AM
Recommended Vegetables, Care, Maintenance &
Harvesting
Presenter – Jerry Dauer, Master Gardener
10:30 AM – 10:50 AM
3. 10:50 AM – 11:45 AM
Break and Refreshments
Disease and Pest Control in the Garden
Presenter – Robert Wilson, Master Gardener
4. 11:45 AM – 12:45 PM
Herb Gardening
Presenter – Donna Cunningham, Master Gardener
12:45 – 12:50 PM
Evaluation
12:50 PM
Adjournment
Advance publicity in Community Announcements in Sequatchie Valley Shopper, Bledsoe Banner,
Dunlap Tribune and the banner on the Cable TV Weather Channel will hopefully result in a number of
interested people from both Bledsoe and Sequatchie counties.
February 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
PO Box 548,
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289,
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
What is it?
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips for March
Pruning Tips
“A Growing Obsession”
"A garden is never so good
as it will be next year."
-Thomas Cooper-
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meetings
Saturday March 6, 2010 11:00 AM Dunlap Mountain Valley Bank
Pot Luck lunch to welcome the 2010 Class at 12:00 Noon
Saturday May 1, 2010 details later
Vegetable Workshop
March 27 8:30 to 12:30 Mountain Valley Bank Dunlap
Sequatchie County Fair
July 19-24, 2010 (This is a whole month earlier!)
Growing Beautiful Roses Made Easy
Saturday, March 13, 2010
University of Tennessee Knoxville – Ag Campus
Plant Biotech Building, Rooms 156 & 157
Sponsored by: Holston Rose Society & Tennessee Rose Society
For directions, map, and registration form:
Go to www.tennesseerosesociety.org Click on “Events”
Fee: Pre-registration $10 Day-of-Seminar $15
What is it? See page 5 for more information
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
February 2010 Plant of the Month
Submitted by Beth Willis
The Windmill Palm, or Trachycarpus
fortune, is an excellent choice for those who
want a tropical feel in their landscape, but who
do not have the luxury of a year-round tropical
climate. This selection is very cold-hardy – a
specimen in the UT Gardens shows no damage
after an extended period of below-freezing
temperatures.
The Windmill Palm is an excellent choice for those
who want a tropical feel in their landscape, but who don’t
have the luxury of a year-round tropical climate. This
selection, 'Bulgaria' is very cold-hardy.
This attractive palm has large fan-shaped
leaves that spread out from a single stem or
trunk. It can reach 20-40 feet in the landscape,
and trunk growth of up to a foot a year has
been reported. The trunk is covered with a
coarse mat made of the leaf bases, which
remain on the stem even after the leaf has
fallen away. The Windmill Palm is ‘dioecious’,
meaning that it has separate male and female
plants. Each bears large panicles of flowers in
the spring. Female plants will develop yellow to
blue-black fruits that ripen in autumn.
Native to mountainous areas of Asia, the
Windmill Palm has been cultivated extensively
for centuries. The leaf sheath fiber of this plant
is extremely strong, and it has been used for
making ropes, sacks and coarse cloth.
Throughout the world, it is highly sought-after
by palm enthusiasts as an ornamental. In the
United States, it has become a popular
landscape specimen in much of the southeast
as well as mild areas on the east and west
coasts.
Windmill palms prefer a fertile, welldrained soil but can tolerate other conditions so
long as it is not in a continuously soggy site. It
will do well in part-shade to full sun. It can even
be planted in containers. If planting in Zone 7 or
above, a sheltered site is recommended. Once
established, specimens are fairly drought
tolerant, although growth will slow. They are
also wind and salt tolerant, which make them
suitable for coastal plantings.
The pictured cultivar, ‘Bulgaria’ tends to
have smaller leaves and a tighter habit than the
species. It has been propagated from specimens
in Plovdiv, Bulgaria, which have survived
repeated exposures to temperatures as low as 0
degrees F. Other forms and related species are
commercially available as well. The ‘Taylor
form’, for example, has very droopy leaf tips,
while T. nanus is a dwarf form. Any of these
would bring that distinctive tropical feel to your
landscape, although they do have some
variability in cold hardiness.
February 2010
2
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
March Gardening Tips
“April showers bring May flowers,” for the gardener that means things have to be ready. March
is the time to sow indoors those flowers especially summer annuals (if you plan to start your own).
Follow catalog or seed package directions. This is the time to divide and transplant clumping perennials
such as daylily and hosta. You will also need to be ready to fertilize established perennials as soon as
new growth appears Remember to follow soil test recommendations. No soil test! You might think
about taking one soon, before the busy season at the lab. Transplant any free-seeding perennials such
as hellebore or coreopsis as they appear.
March is also the time to cut-back ornamental grasses to just above their growing crown. Divide
any thick and overgrown clumps and fertilize established grasses as soon as new growth appears. Set
your mower on it highest height and mow your ivy, vinca, and monkey grass ground covers to easily
remove old foliage.
Finish pruning fruit trees this month, before the buds swell. Be sure to get these cool-season
annual veggies in this month and the sooner the better! Spinach, head and leaf lettuce, collards, turnip
greens, onions, beets, broccoli, cabbage, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower, carrots, eggplant, early potatoes,
radish and Swiss chard can be direct seeded or transplanted into the garden.
March through April is an ideal time to apply a combination of slow-release fertilizer and preemergent herbicide for crabgrass control to your lawn. You want to apply this combination before
dandelions reach the puff-ball stage.
Pruning Gardening Tips
from Jason Reeves, Horticulturist, UT Gardens in Jackson
March is the ideal time to cut back the following garden plants:
Miscanthus (maiden grass), Pennisetum (fountain grass), Muhlenbergia (muhly grass) and Nassella
(Mexican feather grass) to 3 inches to 6 inches above the ground.
Old growth on Helleborus (Christmas and Lenten Rose) before new growth appears.
Liriope (Monkey grass) before new growth appears. Use a string trimmer for larger areas.
Hardy fern, including evergreen forms, before new growth appears.
Epimedium (barrenwort) flowers early so don't delay.
Acorus (sweet flag) only if the winter has browned the foliage.
Prune out older branches on Cornus sericea (red twig dogwood) to encourage new growth with
bright bark.
Knock Out™ roses or other shrub roses that have grown bigger than you desire. Cut well established
plants back 2 to 3 feet shorter than the height you desire. Late March is the ideal time.
Older branches on Callicarpa (beautyberry) to encourage new growth that produces more berries.
Rejuvenate overgrown Nandina (heavenly bamboo) by cutting back to a few inches on the outside,
leaving taller canes in the center, staggering the heights.
Limb up and remove cross branches as needed on trees and tree type crape myrtles as needed.
Never top trees or crape myrtles.
Look closely at grafted plants and remove all growth below the graft. Commonly grafted plants to
pay close attention to include witch hazels, contorted filberts, weeping cherries, weeping
mulberries, dogwoods, fruit trees, crab apples, and Japanese Maples.
March is the best month to carry out drastic pruning on overgrown hollies.
February 2010
3
“A Growing Obsession: Rare Seeds”
“A Growing Obsession: Rare Seeds” was the
title of a February 10, 2010 Wall Street Journal
Article by Anne Marie Chaker. This is an excellent
overview of the seed exchange process and can
be found at
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000142405274
8704820904575055181332462128.html?mod=W
SJ_LifeStyle_Lifestyle_5#articleTabs%3Darticle
Seed exchanges “are groups formed by
garden clubs or plant collectors whose members
harvest seeds from their own plants and donate
them to the exchange.” There is little or no cost
when gardeners order seed from the exchange.
What is the appeal of these exchanges? Well,
they frequently offer unusual varieties of plants
not typically found in catalogs, maybe a species
grown by few collectors, or an "heirloom" variety.
Late winter is the time many gardeners are
planning for the 2010 growing season and March
is a time many vegetables are started from seed
to be ready for a spring transplant. Thus, the next
few weeks are the busy season for seed
exchanges. Ms. Chaker comments that part of the
enjoyment of the exchanges is surfing the seed
exchanges and recognizing names and gardens
where donations come from. Yes even well
known gardens use seed exchange. For example,
the New York Botanical Garden has listed with
The North American Rock Garden Society more
than 100 seeds from its expeditions to the
countries of Georgia and China in 2005 and 2007.
The article notes that the Smithsonian's Mary
Livingston Ripley garden has donated to the
Hardy Plant Society/Mid-Atlantic Group seed
exchange several varsities’ and this year they
donated seeds of a South African foxglove.
Some exchanges specialize in a particular
plant, letting members explore unusual varieties.
The Kansas City, MO bases, The Species Iris Group
of North America exchange is an example of a
specialized exchange. One variety included on the
exchange is the snake-bane iris. The snake-bane
iris is a native of China believed to repel snakes,
and is extremely rare in the U.S.
According to James W. Waddick, The Species
Iris Group of North America exchange's cochairman, the exchange is not just for iris snobs,
he says, adding, "There are some people who
want to have a 20-foot row and don't want to pay
for plants when you can just buy a packet of
seed."
To take part in an exchange, gardeners
harvest seeds and mail in their seed donations.
The organization then publishes a catalog listing
contributions. Members then make their pick and
depending on availability, receive anywhere from
a handful to hundreds of seeds. The cost may be
as little as 50 cents or less—a fraction of what
commercially sold seed packets can cost.
Sometimes there are limits on the number of
seeds members can order.
Annual dues are often required and can run
from as little as $5 to $40. Some web sited such
as blossomswap.com also host seed-trading
forums, which do not require membership fees.
These homemade listings may not have many
of the showy hybrid varieties commercial
catalogs offer and that appeal to many
gardeners. On the other hand, gardeners
interested in species plants or “heirlooms” will
find plenty of variety in these seed-exchange
listings.
Charles Cresson, a Swarthmore, Pa gardener
who oversees a garden that has been in the
family since 1883, says, “A good plant should be
shared, and a rare plant should be shared… Its
survival depends on it." Mr. Cresson expresses
one of the great things about gardening, sharing.
Six seed exchanges were listed in the article
are listed below with web address for more
information:
American Penstemon Society
www.apsdev.org
Hardy Plant Society/Mid-Atlantic Group
www.hardyplant.org
North American Rock garden Society
www.nargs.org
Seed Savers Exchange
www.seedsavers.org
Society for Pacific Coast Native Iris
www.pacificcoastiris.org
Species Iris Group of North America
www.signa.org
February 2010
4
What is it? A The Brown Recluse Spider
The brown recluse Loxosceles reclusa Gertsch and
Mulaik is a medium-sized spider belonging to the
Order Aranea (spiders) and the Family
Loxoscelidae (the brown spiders). The adult body
ranges from 7mm to 12mm in length (1/4 to inch)
and 3mm to 5mm wide (1/8 to under 1/4 inch).
The legs span an area roughly the size of a
quarter to a half-dollar.
The color of the brown recluse varies from a
light yellowish brown to a dark, reddish or
chocolate brown, but most are light to medium
brown. Short hairs densely cover their body, and
the male abdomen is generally smaller than that
of the female. The second pair of legs is longer
than the remaining pairs in both sexes. Three
pairs of eyes are arranged in a semicircle. Since
most other spiders have eight eyes, this feature
alone can eliminate many specimens suspected
of being a brown recluse spider.
The most distinguishing characteristic is the
violin-shaped marking on the carapace (the top of
the body directly above the legs). Although
variable, the violin-shaped marking is usually
much darker than surrounding areas and may
appear longitudinally lined. In some individuals,
the size of this violin-shaped marking may be
considerably reduced. Other spiders may have a
violin-shaped marking. The best identification
feature for the brown recluse is the semicircular
arrangement of the three pairs of eyes. Contact
your county Extension agent to identify a
suspected brown recluse spider.
Source: The Brown Recluse Spider PB 1191 UT
Extension by Karen M. Vail, and John A. Watson
Note the three sets of
eyes
Note the mark on the
back
Photo sources: #5192088 Division of Plant Industry Archive, Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services,
www.forestryimages.org; #2169031 Lisa Ames, University of Georgia, www.forestryimages.org; #5192087 Division of Plant
Industry Archive, Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, www.forestryimages.org
February 2010
5
March 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips for April
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meetings
Saturday May 1, 2010 details later
Vegetable Workshop
March 27 8:30 to 12:30 Mountain Valley Bank Dunlap
Sequatchie County Fair
July 19-24, 2010 (This is a whole month earlier!)
Growing Beautiful Roses Made Easy
Saturday, April 13, 2010
University of Tennessee Knoxville – Ag Campus
Plant Biotech Building, Rooms 156 & 157
Sponsored by: Holston Rose Society & Tennessee Rose Society
For directions, map, and registration form:
Go to www.tennesseerosesociety.org Click on “Events”
Fee: Pre-registration $10 Day-of-Seminar $15
Gourd Society Show
April 17-18 Bledsoe County Fairgrounds
http://www.tennesseevolunteergourdsociety.org/
Workshops and activities can count for continuing education
Garden and Art Expo
___________________
“A man's errors are his
portals of discovery.”
James Joyce
8 to 2 PM Eastern April 24, 2010
Bachman Community Center, 2815 Anderson Pike, Walden, TN (on Signal Mountain)
http://www.bachmancc.org/expo/
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
Other dates and Events
5th Annual Flower & Garden Show & Sale
Hosted by UT Extension & the Sevier County Area Master Gardeners Association
Saturday, April 17th, 2010 from 9AM-4 PM at the Sevier County Fair Grounds,
754 Old Knoxville Highway, Sevierville, Tennessee.
The show will include vendors with flowers, plants, trees, shrubs, yard art and many other garden
related items. Educational speakers will present programs at 10AM, 11AM, and 1PM. There will be a
kid's craft area, live music, snacks, and a live auction at 3:30. Go to www.SCAMGA.org for additional
information.
2010 Spring Flower & Garden Show
Cumberland County Master Gardeners
Dates Friday, April 23 2 p.m. – 6 p.m. Saturday, April 24, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. and Sunday, April 25 11 a.m. - 3
p.m. See attached flyer for details.
21st Summer Celebration
Thursday, July 8, 2010 - 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
West Tennessee Research and Education Center, Jackson TN
Admission $5.00
2nd Annual Fall Plant Sale and Garden Lectures
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Plant sale and outdoor talks 3pm – dark
Indoor lecture 6:30
West Tennessee Research and Education Center, Jackson, TN
Free Admission
Let’s Celebrate 100 Years of Transforming Tennessee!
The Tennessee Master Gardener program is marking
this milestone by offering each Master Gardener (Certified
or Intern) who turns in 100 hours or more ONLINE a
commemorative UT Extension Lapel pin.
The only conditions are:
1. The approved hours must be served during the 2010, the Centennial Year of UT Extension.
2. Lapel pins should be ordered by Extension staff only. Staff should email [email protected] Subject:
Centennial Pins with the number of pins needed, the county name and shipping address.
March 2010
2
March 2010 Plant of the Month
Sedum
Submitted by Matthew Morrow
As the weather begins to warm, we are
turning our thoughts toward annuals and other
warm weather plants. Sedum are most often
considered to be warm weather plants, but the
genus will surprise you in the height winter and
even now as the days are growing longer.
The first time I noticed the beautiful winter
interest of sedum, I patted it on the head and
whispered, “Nice going, little guy.” Moving past
the fact that I anthropomorphize my plants,
many species of sedum will add a sparkle of
color to your cold weather landscape.
Not all of these plants look their best in
winter, and some disappear for the coldest
months. However, you can trust some species
to hang around and look spiffy in the cold
weather. Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ is the first
of these. This vigorous little ground cover has
become very well established in garden centers
and gardens these last few years. The
chartreuse foliage turns a vivid mix of orange
and light-plum in the winter months, as if it is
setting itself aflame to keep warm.
Less well known is S. bithynicum (syn. S.
palladium var. bithynicum), or Turkish sedum.
This 2 inch high succulent can be downright
aggressive, but the ice-blue color of its foliage
makes the rampage seem charming. It is easily
pulled. Tight clusters of foliage make the sedum
appear to be a carpet of little balls that change
from blue to a very interesting pink when
temperatures drop. This sedum planted around
a red twig Dogwood (like Cornus sanguine
‘Winter Flame’) can be striking. S. album is an
old favorite that keeps a solid green all through
the winter. ‘Coral Carpet’ turns red in the
summer.
For a nice red-purple in the winter, many S.
spurium cultivars are available. ‘Dragons Blood’
is a popular choice, although it struggles when
the weather gets hot and humid.
All sedum require excellent drainage, a
good amount of sun and little water in winter.
The sedums mentioned are suitable for zones 3
to 8 except for S. spurium, which has a range of
zone 3 to 7. You should also try to keep leaves
from accumulating on top of them, or the
plants may rot.
Sedums propagate easily, so mix and match
them and have some fun.
Sedum are most often considered to be warm weather plants, but
the genus will surprise you in the height of winter and even now as
the days are growing longer. This mixture of sedum is on display at
the UT Gardens at the West Tennessee AgReseach and Education
Center in Jackson. Photo by J. Reeves
March 2010
3
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
April Gardening Tips
April is the month that gardens and
gardeners alike really spring to life. Buds and
blooms invigorate the plants and their caretakers.
The University of Tennessee Institute of
Agriculture recommends gardeners perform the
following tasks to keep their landscapes looking
their best.
Spring Bulbs
As spring-flowering bulbs finish blooming,
remove the spent flowers and any developing
seed pods. This will permit the flower to spend its
resources on making bigger, more plentiful
flowers next year. Do not twist, braid or cut off
the foliage. The leaves are gathering energy to
store in the bulb for next year's growth. If you
must remove the foliage, wait until it is mostly
brown or yellow, then cut it off cleanly at the
ground. Bulbs will appreciate a sprinkling of a
bulb-formulated fertilizer applied just as
flowering is complete.
Summer Bulbs
Summer-flowering bulbs can be planted in
mid to late April in East Tennessee and somewhat
earlier in Middle and West Tennessee. Dahlia,
gladiolus, tuberose, fancy-leaf caladium, elephant
ear, amaryllis and canna will add color, fragrance
and texture to the summer garden. Caladiums
and elephant ears thrive in shade, while all the
others need full sun (or at least half a day) to
bloom well. Since these bulbs need to grow
quickly to provide summer interest, prepare the
planting bed by deeply tilling, incorporating
organic matter and adding bulb fertilizer. Crush
any clods, remove rocks and debris, and then
rake the bed smooth and level. Crowning the bed
(making the center slightly higher than the edges)
improves drainage. Follow the directions on the
bulb package to determine the correct planting
depth and spacing.
Lawns
Cool-season grasses such as fescue, bluegrass
and perennial ryegrass should receive their
second fertilizer application of the year in April.
Turf experts advise applying half to one pound of
nitrogen in March and again in April. Cool-season
grasses should not be fertilized until September.
Warm-season grasses such as Bermudagrass,
zoysia and centipede should be fertilized just as
the grass begins to green up. Apply one pound of
nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Repeat this
application in May and June. If you need help
choosing or applying a lawn fertilizer, ask your
county Extension agent or a master gardener.
You can do much to reduce weeds and
improve the appearance of your lawn by mowing
at the correct height for the type of grass you
have and mow frequently with a sharp blade.
Turfgrass experts recommend these mowing
heights:
Kentucky Bluegrass - 1.5 to 2.5 inches
Turf-type Tall Fescue - 2 to 3 inches
Fine Fescue - 1.5 to 2.5 inches
Perennial Ryegrass - 1.5 to 2.5 inches
Common Bermuda - 0.75 to 1.5 inches
Hybrid Bermuda - 0.5 to 1.5 inches
Zoysia - 0.75 to 1.5 inches
Centipede - 1 to 2 inches
Shrubs
Azalea, forsythia, lilac, weigela, flowering
quince, spring-flowering spireas and other shrubs
that flower very early in the year can be pruned
as soon as flowering is over. Do not delay
because these shrubs make next year's flower
buds during the summer. No fertilizer may be
needed, but these shrubs can be fertilized before
or soon after flowering. Shrubs and trees are
more often over-fertilized than under-fertilized.
Putting out fertilizer when none is needed tends
to make trees and shrubs more susceptible to
insects, disease and drought.
If you have not pruned your butterfly bush
(Buddleia davidii) by now, do it this month. The
common butterfly bush should be cut down each
year to within six or 12 inches off the ground just
before or soon after new growth begins. Butterfly
bushes are rapid growers and only produce
flowers on new growth each spring. In addition,
the annual cut-back will produce larger flowers
and maintain manageable shrub size. A mature
bush can be cut completely down and still grow
back to its full height within three to four months
and flower profusely.
March 2010
4
Azalea Lace Bug
Inspect evergreen Azaleas for lacebug
damage. This common Azalea pest feeds on the
growing in the water, mud or pots along the
edges of the pond. Clean fallen leaves from
shrubs near the water. Prune overhanging
branches to allow the most sun to reach the
water surface. If you feed your fish, begin doing
so when you see them actively swimming.
Fruit Trees
Stippling caused by feeding by Azalea lace bug on deciduous
azalea
http://woodypests.cas.psu.edu/PestDiagnosis/Azalea.html
underside of leaves and gives a whitish, pale or
stippled appearance to the top side of the leaf.
The bugs are tiny and hard to see, but they leave
dark brown dots or flecks on the underside of the
leaf. If left uncontrolled, lacebugs will cause the
plant to be unattractive, decline and perhaps die.
Begin by evaluating the growing conditions of
your Azaleas since a well-grown plant is
significantly less troubled by these insects.
A safe and effective way to destroy these
insects is to spray the underside of the leaves
with a horticultural oil or an insecticidal soap.
Thorough coverage is necessary and must be
repeated at least once (within ten days to two
weeks).
Water Gardens
April is a good time for pond cleaning. Skim
the surface to remove any fallen leaves or other
debris. Cut back and remove debris from plants
While fruit trees are blooming, refrain from
spraying insecticides to spare the bees pollinating
the flowers. Within a week after the flower petals
fall, resume your regular fruit-tree-spray
program. Peach, plum and cherry trees may be
sprayed shortly after petal fall to control fungal
diseases like brown rot, rust and leaf spots. Ask
an informed salesperson at your local garden
center to recommend a fungicidal product or
contact your local county Extension agent or a
master gardener.
Vegetable Gardens
You can still plant cool-weather vegetables
this month. Onions may be planted directly in the
garden from sets, small onion bulbs, purchased
from the garden center. Push the onion set into
soft, fertile garden soil until the top is just below
the soil surface. Onions do not compete
effectively against weeds, so be prepared to hand
weed your onions. Broccoli, cabbage and
cauliflower plants should still be available. Sow
seeds of lettuce, leafy greens, beets, carrots and
radishes directly into well-prepared soil. Set out
spinach plants or grow your own from seed.
Beans and corn can also be planted. If you
grow the "supersweet" varieties of corn, wait
until May 1 to sow the seed, or until the soil is
warm where you live. Warm-weather-lovers like
tomatoes and peppers should not be set out until
the last expected frost date is well past and the
soil is getting warm (May 1-15 in East Tennessee).
March 2010
5
The Quickest Growing Vegetables
Source the Garden Guides http://www.gardenguides.com/100307-quickest-growing-vegetables.html
Waiting for harvest can be one of the more tedious parts of gardening. Instant satisfaction can be
had when you're perusing a farmer's market or grocery store, but not when you're growing things
yourself--those juicy tomatoes you crave may well take months to get into your sandwich. But there are
many vegetables, warm- and cool-season, that take less time to grow than others, making them
particularly suitable for children, and for mixing with longer-germinating crops.
Onions
According to the University of Tennessee Extension, many onion varieties can take as little as 30
days or up to 60 to mature enough to harvest. They can be planted very early, in February or March, or
as a fall crop. The Texas A&M University Horticulture Department explains differing onion types form
bulbs at different rates, depending on the length of the days, and all require more water the closer they
get to harvest.
Turnips
Turnips grown for their greens, rather than roots, can be planted in March and take between 30 and
40 days to mature. Heirloom Organics says optimal growth is dependent upon a site with deep, loose
and fertile soil.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, once seeds sprout and plants become established, grows prolifically if given
enough water and sun. The fruit is ready to be harvested from the sprawling plants between 40 and 50
days after planting in early summer. The University of Illinois Extension advises picking fruit before it
matures and the rind hardens, about four to eight days after flowering.
Cucumber
Cucumber can be harvested around the same time as summer squash. Vegetables being grown for
picking or slicing can be picked as soon as 50 days later, before they reach the yellowing stage, the Ohio
State University Extension states.
Bush Beans
Healthy snap bean plants in bush varieties produce a large crop within about 50 days, after they
bloom. They work well planted successively from April through June and grow best when there is a
constant moisture supply, Fort Valley State University claims.
Radishes
Radishes, often grown as an early spring or fall crop, are one of the quickest growing vegetables.
They will reach maturation as soon as 35 days and serve as a good "intercrop" among longer-maturing
vegetable plants, says Heirloom Organics.
Leaf Lettuce
Another fall vegetable, leaf lettuce can be harvested within 40 to 50 days after planting in July,
August and September. It is cold hardy, but hot weather can stunt growth and make leaves taste bitter,
according to the University of Illinois Extension
March 2010
6
Ready to start your garden?
By: Carol Reese, Ornamental Horticulture Specialist -Western District
These vegetables don’t mind if it’s not yet spring…or
Cabbage, cauliflower, kale and other cole crops are cool with cold weather…or
Cabbage, kale, cauliflower and carrots are cool with the remaining cold weather
I longed for warmer weather and now it has
me frightened. I’m still gun shy after the Easter
freeze of 2007. If you’ve forgotten, we had one of
the warmest Marches on record, followed by
three nights in April with temperatures that
dropped into the ‘teens. The resulting damage
was horrific and something I hope to never see
again.
Remember that we have about five weeks to
go before our average last frost date - around the
middle of April. I’ve seen people in shorts this
week, and I’m afraid the eternal optimists, or the
woefully ignorant may troop out to the garden
with tomato plants.
That said, you can plant cool season
vegetables now. Some that you can easily grow
are also the expensive ones at the grocery store,
such as broccoli, cauliflower and Brussel sprouts.
My brother Dan says every year that he doesn’t
plant enough of these, and every year he plants
more and still complains that he doesn’t grow
enough of these. Also plant your greens - lettuce,
mustard, spinach, chard and kale. Turnips provide
both greens and edible roots. Root vegetables
such as carrots, potatoes and radishes are also on
the early spring agenda. For carrots to develop
well, you need loose, fluffy, friable soil. George
Foster at Green Thumb Nursery in Lexington says
if you don’t have that kind of soil, you might plant
carrots in a raised bed, mixing your garden soil
with compost, or a porous potting medium.
I’ve seen lots of evergreen shrubs with dead
foliage, or even completely defoliated from
winter injury. Don’t assume these should be cut
back. The leaf loss does not mean that the wood
is dead, and the odds are quite good that the
plant will flush new growth normally once spring
has “sprung”. By late May, it should look like “its
old self”.
Still, this is a good time to prune back
evergreens that have grown too large, though
you know that I’m generally against that practice.
If it’s too large for the site, I’d say you should
consider moving it, or limbing it up into a tree
form. I would hate to be sentenced to controlling
a plant’s size for the rest of its duration in my
landscape.
There are a few plants though, that I do
recommend giving a good “make-over” with your
pruners.
Nandina is one. The common species of
Nandina domestica most often found around
older homes, often develops into a group of leggy
stalks, each with a topknot of foliage. Starting a
few inches above the ground, cut these stalks at a
variety of heights, leaving the tallest in the
middle, or tallest toward the back if the plant is
viewed from only one side. New growth will flush
thickly from these pruned stalks and flowers will
develop on the new growth, resulting in red
berries by the time fall arrives. The final result
will be a voluptuous nandina where you once
had lanky.
I also see lanky rose of Sharon, aka althea or
shrubalthea. This plant also blooms on new
wood, so give it a tip pruning, or even a thorough
reshaping and you’ll see a big increase in flowers.
Leave your hydrangeas alone, unless you
have Hydrangea arborescens, which blooms on
new wood. If you have the old fashioned pink,
blue or purple hydrangea, it is likely to be
Hydrangea macrophylla or serrata, and the
flower buds were formed last summer. Pruning
now will cut them off, insuring that you have no
flowers or very few.
March 2010
7
The Cumberland County Master Gardeners
2010 Spring Flower & Garden Show
Dates
Friday ~ April 23
2 p.m. – 6 p.m.
Saturday ~ April 24
9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Sunday ~ April 25
11 a.m. - 3 p.m.
Gardening Clinics - free with admission
Purchase Plants, Garden Art, and Furniture
See Wonderful Garden Displays
Get Ideas for your Home Landscaping Projects
See the latest Products for Garden and Patio
Bring your Questions to 'Ask A Master Gardener'
Location
Cumberland County Fairgrounds ~ Community Complex
1398 Livingston Road
Crossville, Tennessee 38555
Master Gardeners ~ Promoting Gardening through Education & Service
www.ccmga.org
April 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips for April
___________________
“A man's errors are his
portals of discovery.”
James Joyce
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meetings
Saturday May 1, 2010 Bledsoe Telephone Co-op
Cumberland Ave Pikeville TN
Sequatchie County Fair
July 19-24, 2010 (This is a whole month earlier!)
Growing Beautiful Roses Made Easy
Saturday, April 13, 2010
University of Tennessee Knoxville – Ag Campus
Plant Biotech Building, Rooms 156 & 157
Sponsored by: Holston Rose Society & Tennessee Rose Society
For directions, map, and registration form:
Go to www.tennesseerosesociety.org Click on “Events”
Fee: Pre-registration $10 Day-of-Seminar $15
Gourd Society Show
April 17-18 Bledsoe County Fairgrounds
http://www.tennesseevolunteergourdsociety.org/
Workshops and activities can count for continuing education
Garden and Art Expo
8 to 2 PM Eastern April 24, 2010
Bachman Community Center, 2815 Anderson Pike, Walden, TN (on Signal Mountain)
http://www.bachmancc.org/expo/
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
Other dates and Events
5th Annual Flower & Garden Show & Sale
Hosted by UT Extension & the Sevier County Area Master Gardeners Association
Saturday, April 17th, 2010 from 9AM-4 PM at the Sevier County Fair Grounds,
754 Old Knoxville Highway, Sevierville, Tennessee.
The show will include vendors with flowers, plants, trees, shrubs, yard art and many other garden
related items. Educational speakers will present programs at 10AM, 11AM, and 1PM. There will be a
kid's craft area, live music, snacks, and a live auction at 3:30. Go to www.SCAMGA.org for additional
information.
2010 Spring Flower & Garden Show
Cumberland County Master Gardeners
Dates Friday, April 23 2 p.m. – 6 p.m. Saturday, April 24, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. and Sunday, April 25 11 a.m. - 3
Cumberland County Fairgrounds – 1398 Livingston Rd Crossville
There will be several educational clinics during the show ... no extra charge, but seating is limited
o “Did I do that?, Do I have to look at that?, or What Is That?” are questions we all ask
ourselves so on Friday, April 23 at 2:30, Beth Babbitt, Horticulturist / Master Gardener
coordinator UT Extension-Plant Sciences, will help us out as she discusses Landscape
Mistakes.
o “Trickles, Spouts, and Falls” could be what Alan Baker, Master Gardener VIP, discusses in an
“Introduction to Water Gardens” ~ design, construction, maintenance and water-loving
plants Friday, at 4 pm.
o On Saturday, April 24, at 10 am this “Diva tells All” when Nancy Rich the Daylily Diva™ from
Blooming Idiots Farm™ brings us the newest hybrid daylilies.
“Let’s Catch Yellow Fever” as Lucas Holman spreads his contagious yellow fever with Yellow
Landscape plants, yellow leaves, yellow flowers and yellow variegations at Noon on
Saturday!
o "Get out of here you “&*$%@#” Invasive Plants as expletively brought to you by Lisa Carol
Huff, Natural Areas Manager, East TN Region of the TN Natural Areas Program, Resource
Management Division Tennessee State Parks, TN Dept. of Environment & Conservation. This
will be at 2 pm on Saturday.
o And Sunday, April 25, at 1 pm, Jim Mynes from UT will further tell us how to care for all the
different kinds of roses that we were able to purchase from the UT AgResearch and
Education Center during the past days.
21st Summer Celebration
Thursday, July 8, 2010 - 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
West Tennessee Research and Education Center, Jackson TN
Admission $5.00
2nd Annual Fall Plant Sale and Garden Lectures
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Plant sale and outdoor talks 3pm – dark
Indoor lecture 6:30
West Tennessee Research and Education Center, Jackson, TN
Free Admission
April 2010
2
April 2010 Plant of the Month
Columbine
Submitted by Jason Reeves
More than 60 species of columbine and
many more hybrids grace our landscapes each
spring. The flowers come in almost every color
and can be nodding to upright, depending on
the species.
My favorite of the group is Aquilegia
canadensis. Sometimes called Eastern or
Canadian columbine, A. canadensis is native to
most of eastern North America and can be
found growing wild in at least 37 states and
much of Canada. It may not be as showy as
some of its kin, but its flowers have a certain
grace and elegance, making it one of my
favorite spring flowering plants. The drooping,
bell-like one- to two-inch reddish and yellow
flowers are produced in April and May on twoto three-foot stalks. Many do not realize that
they make good cut flowers.
Hummingbirds find these blooms
irresistible; however, as a member of the
Ranunculus family, columbine is less appetizing
to deer and other pests.
In the wild, plants are found in a range
of growing conditions, from moist semi-shady
areas to dry rocky bluffs. In the garden, they
perform best in full sun to partial shade and in
moist well drained average garden soil, but will
grow in a wide range of soils as long as the
drainage is good.
Columbine’s glaucous blue-green
compound leaves are held in groups of three by
long petioles giving the plant a beautiful frilly
Sometimes called Eastern or Canadian
columbine, A. canadensis is native to most
of eastern North America and can be found
growing wild in at least 37 states and much
of Canada. Photo courtesy of Kris Light,
easttennesseewildflowers.com.
skirt when in flower. As compared to other
species and hybrids, A. canadensis is less
susceptible to leaf miners, which do little longterm harm but can make the foliage unsightly.
Plants freely self-seed and will
naturalize in the garden. When starting seed
indoors, germination can be improved by
sowing the seed in a good potting media and
placing in a refrigerator for 6 weeks before
moving to a warm location. From seed they will
flower the second year and live for three to four
years in the garden.
April 2010
3
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
May Gardening Tips
May is the month to get everything planted. Be sure to mulch plants and keep things well
watered since young, unestablished plants can dry out and die quickly. After getting everything planted
and mulched, don’t forget to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent an invasion of summer weeds.
Preen is the most popular brand on the market that can be used with just about any plant.
In addition to planting, May chores abound:
As soon as spring-blooming shrubs have finished flowering, prune and shape the plant if needed.
Watch for bagworms on junipers, cedars, arborvitae, and white pine.
If you have had a grub problem or other insects in your lawn, apply a grub-controlling insecticide or
one labeled for the insects you want to control.
May is strawberry-picking month. Stock up on ice cream and whipped cream!
Spray fruit trees and grapes early in the month with preventative fungicides.
Keep tomatoes pruned and tied as they grow. Be careful not to over fertilize, or you will increase
flower and fruit drop.
Tie the leaves over small developing heads of cauliflower to keep it tender, mild flavored, and white.
Water everything that is newly planted. Check every day for adequate moisture until the plants
establish themselves in your garden.
Deadhead or prune back spent flowers on your perennials. This simple process will keep those
perennials blooming beautifully throughout the season.
Stake tall-growing perennials to prevent them from lodging (falling over).
Use a light-weight soil mixture to grow annuals in containers. Keep the plants well watered, because
these plants dry out fast! Also, be sure that your containers have adequate drainage holes.
Mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs. This simple practice reduces weeds, controls
fluctuations in soil temperature, retains moisture, prevents damage from lawn mowers and looks
attractive.
When planting summer annuals, consider pinching and removing the flowers to stimulate branching
and the production of many more flowers.
April 2010
4
Gardeners Beware of Diseased Tomato and Pepper Plants
Steve Bost
From The TMG list serve
Due to recurring problems with serious
diseases on tomato and pepper plants, the
University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture is
encouraging Tennessee gardeners to buy their
tomato and pepper plants from local
greenhouses.
Dr. Steve Bost, a plant pathologist with
the UT Department of Entomology and Plant
Pathology and UT Extension, says bacterial spot
disease is often found in tomato and pepper
plants. “Last year, a major epidemic of late blight
disease of tomato and potato occurred in much
of the eastern half of the country as a result of
infected tomato plants,” he said. “Both plant
diseases are very difficult to control and, under
rainy conditions, satisfactory control is
impossible.” These are blight diseases that cause
the leaves to die, thus starving the fruit and
resulting in fewer, smaller fruit. Spots and rots
can also occur on the fruit.
Bost says the easiest and most effective
means of controlling these diseases is to buy
disease-free transplants in the first place. “These
diseases have not been seen in plants produced
by local greenhouses, so before you purchase a
plant from a garden center, look at the tag or ask
where it came from. Also, many local
greenhouses sell directly to the public.” The
expert further says you can’t always tell whether
a plant is diseased by its appearance. “A plant
may show few or no dark spots on the leaves at
the time you purchase it,” he said, “but it may
still be infected or contaminated.”
If your tomatoes or peppers had bacterial
spot last year, clean up and bury old plant debris.
If suspicious symptoms begin to develop on your
plants this year, spray with a copper fungicide
every week and don’t wet the leaves when
watering. Look for brown, pinhead-sized spots
on tomato leaves. On pepper leaves, the brown
lesions can be slightly larger and some of them
run along the margins of the leaves.
Another reason for keeping these
diseases out of our kitchen gardens, says Bost, is
to preserve the viability of our local vegetable
farmers’ operations. “Our own farmers’
livelihoods are at stake,” he emphasizes. “These
diseases can ‘escape’ from your garden to other
gardens or commercial fields.” The result Bost
says would be that more pesticide sprays would
be needed and crop harvests would be reduced.
“So, do yourself, your neighbors, and the
local agricultural economy a favor – buy tomato
and pepper plants from local greenhouses,” Bost
says.
Bacterial spot is a serious disease of tomato, but it's not
always apparent in young plants.
April 2010
5
Recent Publications
“Disease and Insect Control in Home Fruit Plantings” (PB 1622)
http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/pbfiles/PB1622.pdf
W237 “Bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon) Control in Tall Fescue (Festuca arundinacea) and Zoysiagrass
(Zoysia spp.) Turf”
W238 ‘Weed Control during the Seeded Establishment of Cool-Season Turfgrasses’
W239 “Removing Overseeded Perennial Ryegrass from Bermudagrass Turf’
These new factsheets have just been completed and all three are available on the Web at
http://utextension.tennessee.edu/publications/turfgrass/default.asp.
2010 Vegetable Workshop A Success
Thirty-eight people total gathered for the March 27 Class at
Mountain Valley Bank. This is the second year the program
was offered and the response has been positive. Thanks to
everyone for the hard work!
April 2010
6
May 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips
___________________
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meetings
August 7, 2010 Dunlap (Details to be announced)
Sequatchie County Fair
July 19-24, 2010 (This is a whole month earlier!)
Bledsoe County Fair
August 10-14 2010
More Events on page 6
It time to pay dues of $12. Please make check payable
to Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners and mail to the
Sequatchie County Extension office. Address is at the
left.
New Officers for 2010-2011
Jim Fawcett - President
Billie Cole – Vice President
Sophia Gabalski – Secretary
Jim Grudzen – Treasurer
Linda Green Johnson - Member at large/2010 Class Rep
Bob Wilson - Member at large
My green thumb came only as
a result of the mistakes I made
while learning to see things
from the plant's point of view.
H. Fred Dale
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
May 2010 Plant of the Month
Ninebark
Submitted by Carol Reese
Reading through my already well-thumbed
new edition of the Manual of Woody Landscape
Plants, I was surprised to see a quote from Dr.
Michael Dirr, esteemed woody plant guru,
claiming that almost anything was better than a
ninebark. He then went on to say that he’d
written that decades ago, and that the newer
cultivars had changed his mind.
True, the native form of ninebark,
Physocarpus opulifolius, is a rangy plant with a
brief bloom period, followed by a slightly longer
show of colorful seeds. There wasn’t much to
write home about, certainly. It was the
introduction of forms with bronze to purple
foliage that made the plant a vibrant player in
the landscape for the length of the growing
season.
Golden-foliaged forms have been in the
trade for some time, and in cool climates, they
are worthy garden additions. In hotter regions,
however, the bright hues fade so fast you might
feel the plants are wasting space.
The new dark-foliaged forms have much
more to commend them. Of the several new
dark-foliaged forms, if I were forced at gunpoint
to pick only two, they would be ‘Summer Wine’
and ‘Coppertina’.
‘Summer Wine’ has a spreading, waterfall
growth habit similar to an old fashioned spirea.
The toothed, slightly lobed leaves flush in late
spring, and though the purplish tint is apparent,
it takes a few weeks of sunlight for the color to
ripen and intensify. Flowering umbels of palest
pink emerge from the leaf axils and generously
stud each weeping branch. Perhaps even more
showy are the umbels of red seed capsules that
follow. Usually a new flush of growth covers
these within a few weeks, so you are left with a
graceful shrub of rich dark foliage. Many purple
plants turn a muddy brown in the heat of the
south, but the color of 'Summer Wine’ just gets
richer.
‘Coppertina’s growth habit differs slightly.
It’s definitely a spreader, wider than tall, but
the limbs don’t seem to have the same
downward spill as ‘Midnight Wine. Newly
emerging bronze foliage has limey gold tints in
the center, but eventually the entire shrub is a
rich dark copper. Flower and seed display is
similar to ‘Summer Wine’.
If you find a form called ‘Diablo’, be warned
that it is a much, much larger plant, and wishes
to grow in a stiff, upright “V.” I didn’t care for
it, until I came upon it at Chanticleer Gardens
limbed up into a tree form, as you might a
crapemyrtle. This revealed the a peeling white
bark, which contrasted beautifully with the dark
foliage and slightly pinker flowers. Lovely!
These plants are of easy culture. Though
they are quite tolerant of shade, the best
foliage color and bloom display will occur in
sun. They accept a wide range of soil, except
overly wet.
The new dark-foliaged forms of ninebark are showy
additions to the landscape. In this photo by C. Reese, the warm
hue of ‘Coppertina’ foliage is brightened by clusters of red
seeds that follow pale peach-colored flowers.
May 2010
2
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
June Gardening Tips
There’s no shortage of work to be done for
your lawn and garden in April. Here’s a checklist
of a few chores recommended by Dr. Susan
Hamilton, director of the University of Tennessee
Gardens:
Keep watering newly planted plants. Also, as
temperatures rise and plants mature, keep
containerized plants well watered.
Watch for Japanese beetles this month,
especially on hibiscus and roses.
Cut back perennials after their first bloom
period. Garden phlox, heliopsis, veronica,
echinacea, and platycodon will rebloom.
Direct seed sunflowers in your garden.
Stagger their planting by every week or two
through July, and you will have flowers until
frost.
Divide bearded iris soon after flowering. By
dividing now, the plants have time to get
established, increasing the chance of flowers
next year.
Fertilize azaleas, pieris, mountain laurel and
other acid-loving species one more time
before August 15 using an acid-based soluble
fertilizer containing iron.
Spray against sap-feeding lacebugs. Target
the underside of leaves with an appropriate
insecticide, insecticidal soap or a summer oil.
Be sure to follow label directions.
Watch for fall web-worms with their webbing
at the ends of branches. Prune out the webs
that can be reached. Various insecticides are
available if chemical control is desired.
Spray a multipurpose fruit tree insecticide
and fungicide to prevent any insect and
disease problems. Spray until 10 days before
harvest.
Remove all root suckers at the base of all fruit
trees, particularly apple and pear, and all
thick water sprouts shooting up straight on
the branches. Also remove any diseased,
dying or insect-riddled wood.
Keep tomatoes pruned and staked or in
cages.
Prevent blossom-end rot of tomato by
providing deep and regular watering with
drip irrigation or soaker hoses in addition to
mulching for water conservation. Fertilizing
with calcium nitrate rather than agricultural
grade 10-10-10 fertilizer also helps.
Harvest cucumbers, green beans and summer
squash when they are ready. If you stop
picking, production will halt.
Seed, sod or plant plugs of Bermuda grass or
other warm-season grasses like zoysia.
Fertilize and de-thatch warm-season lawns
As of May 7, 2010 there were 421.78 hours of volunteer time recorded by
Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners. The value of these hours is $8794.
Thanks to the 13 you have recorded hours thus far.
The University of Tennessee Extension offers its programs to all eligible persons
regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability and is an Equal
Opportunity Employer.
May 2010
3
Invasive Weed Grass Threatens Native Habitats
Mark Atwater, Weed Control Unlimited, Inc., Bugwood.org
A non-native weed, often inadvertently sold
as ornamental grass, is spreading throughout the
Southeast and threatening native plants and
animals alike.
Cogongrass (Imperata cylindrica) is
sometimes sold by nurseries as the ornamental
cultivar Red Baron bloodgrass or Japanese
bloodgrass, says Beth Long, a plant pathology
specialist with University of Tennessee Extension.
“Cogongrass can lose its red color and quickly
become a problem weed,” Long said. “It has been
found in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana,
Mississippi, South Carolina, Texas and Virginia.”
This perennial, thick-rooted grass grows from
2 feet to over 4 feet in height. The leaves are
about an inch wide, have a prominent white
midrib, and end in a sharp point. The flowers are
arranged in a silvery, cylindrical, branching
structure between 3 and 11 inches long and 1.5
inches wide. Long says, “Cogongrass flowers in
May, and this early summer flowering time is a
unique characteristic that should assist in
detection.”
Cogongrass invades and overtakes
ecosystems, forming a dense mat of thatch and
leaves that make it nearly impossible for other
plants to thrive. In ecosystems that are sustained
by occasional brushfires, large infestations of
cogongrass may cause more frequent and intense
fires, which injure or destroy native plants.
Cogongrass also displaces a large variety of native
plant species used by native animals as forage,
host plants, and even shelter.
Fortunately, cogongrass has only been found
in one homeowner site in Tennessee. That site is
under eradication reports Long. This weed was
probably moved into the flowerbed with soil or
ornamental plants from a southern state.
Long recommends that homeowners be on
the lookout for the invasive weed. “If you
discover any cogongrass in your area, contact
your county UT Extension agent as soon as
possible,” she said.
For more information on cogongrass and
other invasive plant pests visit
http://www.tninvasives.org
Chris Evans,
River to River
CWMA,
Bugwood.org
May 2010
4
Plan Now to Keep Wildlife from Raiding Vegetable Gardens
Deer, rabbits, groundhogs and raccoons
enjoy your garden as much as you, and keeping
critters out of your vegetables can be challenging.
Planning ahead will prevent frustration later and
help save your sweet corn, beans, peas, lettuce
and carrots, says a University of Tennessee
extension professional.
"Fencing is the most effective way to
keep nuisance animals out of the garden," says
Craig A. Harper, Professor of Wildlife
Management at the University of Tennessee.
Erecting a fence before wildlife begin
feeding will help control the situation before
habits form. For best results, erect your fence
before or soon after planting. Small gardens do
not require much fencing material, which makes
this method quite efficient, especially since the
materials can be used year after year.
Kenneth M. Gale, www.forestryimages.org
A two-strand electric fence (one strand 6
inches above ground and the other 12 inches
above ground) is effective in keeping raccoons
out of sweet corn and groundhogs out of leafy
vegetables.
A chicken-wire fence 2 feet high with the
bottom tight to the ground will keep most rabbits
out of vegetable patches.
For deer, try a single-strand electric fence
set 2½ feet aboveground with aluminum tabs
attached every 3 to 5 feet. Smear peanut butter
on the aluminum tabs. Deer are attracted to the
peanut butter; however, when they touch their
nose and/or mouth to the tabs, they quickly learn
to stay away from the area.
Many taste and area repellents are
available for deer and rabbits. Deer Stopper® has
been effective keeping deer out of gardens when
applied to a "repellent fence." A cotton rope,
strung around the garden approximately 2½ feet
off the ground, will "hold" repellent for several
days before reapplication is necessary. This
method requires less repellent than spraying
within the garden.
"Shooting can be very effective and
efficient when dealing with nuisance animals in
the garden," Harper says.
Shooting raccoons, groundhogs, and
rabbits is legal outside designated hunting season
when the animal is found depredating or about to
depredate crops. A depredation permit, however,
is necessary to shoot deer outside the hunting
season. Requests for depredation permits should
be made to the Tennessee Wildlife Resources
Agency.
Raccoons, groundhogs and rabbits also
can be trapped using cage (live) or Conibear®
(body-gripping kill) traps. Baits may include the
plants that are being damaged, sardines for
raccoons, fruits and melons for groundhogs, or
fruits and leafy greens for rabbits. There are no
toxicants registered for deer, raccoons,
groundhogs or rabbits.
"It is important to realize the
effectiveness of these methods depends on the
number of animals causing damage and the
availability/quality of other food resources,"
Harper says.
"When the offending animals are not
very numerous, a patch of ladino white and red
clover or cowpeas grown near the garden will
lessen grazing pressure on garden vegetables by
groundhogs, rabbits and deer. Regardless, using a
combination of methods will be more effective
than using only one method." For more
information on managing nuisance animals
around your garden and home, see “Managing
Nuisance Animals and Associated Damage
Around the Home,” at
http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/pb
files/pb1624.pdf
<http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/p
bfiles/pb1624.pdf>.
May 2010
5
Fruits of the Backyard Field Day
Tuesday, June 15, 2010 8:30 am
Middle Tennessee Research & Education Center Spring Hill, TN
It may be an attempt to stay healthy; it could
be a way to save money, or maybe it’s the
pleasure of watching something grow. Whatever
the case, the number of Tennesseans growing
their own fruits and vegetables has grown
tremendously in the past year. While many new
growers say the experience is very rewarding,
they admit that producing homegrown fresh
fruits can be a little tricky.
That’s why the University of Tennessee
Middle Tennessee AgResearch and Education
Center is once again hosting the Fruits of the
Backyard Field Day. On Tuesday, June 15, UT
experts will teach visitors about the production of
small fruits like blueberries and grapes. The
UT Extension Fruit Specialist Dr. David Lockwood will
teaching sessions will include demonstrations on
lead a presentation titled “Grapes, Blueberries and
Other Fruit Crops – Edible Landscaping at Its Best!” at
various small fruit management techniques as
the June 15 Field Day in Spring Hill. Photo by G.
well as proper management practices for your
Rowsey.
lawn and shrubs.
For commercial producers, those who are
looking to start their own fruit business, or those
who are simply looking to get the most out of
their yards, this will be an excellent opportunity
to ask questions, discuss new ideas, and hear
presentations from some of the region’s leading
experts in fruit and lawn management.
Blooms Day 2010
June 26-27 UT Gardens Knoxville
http://www.bloomsdays.utk.edu/
Steak and Potatoes Field Day
Tuesday, August 03, 2010 8:00 am
Plateau Research & Education Center Crossville,
TN
Fall Gardeners Festival
August 31, 2010
Plateau Discovery Garden, Plateau Research &
Education Center Crossville, TN
Remember Events listed
in the Newsletter count as
CEUs
And don’t forget to keep
your volunteer hours. Many
are working toward the 100
hours and one are two are
getting close.
May 2010
6
June 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meetings
August 7, 2010 Dunlap 10 AM (Details to be announced)
Sequatchie County Fair
July 19-24, 2010 (This is a whole month earlier!)
Bledsoe County Fair
August 10-14, 2010
What is it?
Answer on last page
While the photos are field corn in a field on Walden’s Ridge east of Pikeville the
problem according to a couple of sources can occur in sweet corn but is rare due to
cultural practices.
The bottom two leaves of the corn looked like those in the photo, and the pest had
affected most of the corn in the field. Yes, something is eating on the leaf. Any
guesses? See the last page for the answer
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips
___________________
Weather means more
when you have a garden.
There's nothing like
listening to a shower and
thinking how it is soaking
in around your green
beans.
Marcelene Cox -
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
More Events and activities
Blooms Day 2010
June 26-27 UT Gardens, Knoxville
http://www.bloomsdays.utk.edu/
Steak and Potatoes Field Day
Tuesday, August 03, 2010 8:00 am
Plateau Research & Education Center, Crossville, TN
Fall Gardeners Festival
August 31, 2010
Plateau Discovery Garden, Plateau Research & Education Center, Crossville, TN
It time to pay dues of $12. Please make check payable to Sequatchie Valley
Master Gardeners and mail to the Sequatchie County Extension office. Address is
on the front.
Recent work days
Bledsoe County Fair Grounds
May 8, 2010
John Formby’s report shows 116.40 hours
donated to the project as of 5/20/2010. The time
is valued at $2426.94. In addition there was over
$600 dollars worth of plants and materials
donated.
June 2010
2
June 2010 Plant of the Month
Smoketree or Smokebush
Submitted by Carol Reese
Truthfully, woody plants reported to have
purple foliage are rarely purple. The colors are
probably better described as wine, maroon,
aubergine, or burgundy. Still, the word purple is
just fun. It’s one of those words that sounds
weirder and weirder the more you say it.
The beauty and effect of purple foliage
is influenced by climate, so plants that look
wonderful in New England or the northwest
may look tired and ugly in our southern heat. I
found that to be true of the weigela ‘Wine and
Roses’. I’d seen it looking glorious in northern
gardens, but in our hot summer, it turned the
color of tired coffee.
Unfortunately the same is true of most
forms of purple smoketree, also called
smokebush (Cotinus coggygria). The foliage is
glorious for the first few weeks of summer, but
soon it fades and looks tortured by the sun. This
is not true of a cultivar named ‘Grace’. ‘Grace’ is
the result of a cross between Cotinus coggygria
which originates from Eurasia, and Cotinus
obovatus, which a small tree native to the
southeastern United States. This plants does
not have the rich dark purple of it’s Eurasian
parent, but rather is a lovely deep mauve that
flashes reddish leaf undersides. It does have
large misty blooms, the feature that appears to
be purple “smoke” and which gives the plant its
common name.
‘Grace’ also differs in that she wants to
be more like her tree parent in stature. I
laughed when I saw the tag on some lately that
read that the plant would reach twelve feet.
I’ve seen it grow ten feet in a single season!
I don’t see anything wrong with that. I
think a purple tree with smokey purple flowers
is a very cool addition to the landscape. Some of
my gardening friends are determined to
manage it as a shrub, and cut it back severely
each year, which makes it throw out even more
gorgeous foliage, but I like to let it go. If for no
other reason, I am eager to evaluate its
potential as an ornamental tree, large and fast
growing enough to offer quick shade.
‘Grace’ is very easy to grow, requiring
nothing more than a sunny site and well
drained soils.
The large misty blooms of Smoketree appear to be purple
“smoke” and give the plant its common name.
June 2010
3
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
July Gardening Tips
If you've been working hard in your
garden, July is a month during which you will reap
great rewards. Perennial and annual gardens are
exploding in color and vegetable gardens are
offering ripe pickings.
The University of Tennessee Institute of
Agriculture recommends these July chores to
keep your gardens and landscape in top form:
Shrubs & Trees
Perennials, Annuals, & Bulbs
Fruits & Veggies
Continue to deadhead (remove dead
flowers) various annuals and perennials
to encourage profuse blooming.
Cut back tall, fall-flowering perennials
such as iron weed, mums, and asters by
one-third to one-half to reduce their
ultimate height and prevent them from
lodging (falling over).
Watch for crabgrass and other weeds
that invade your summer garden.
Keep plants watered, especially container
plants. July typically will be drier than any
other month to date in the gardening
season.
Purchase and plant fall-blooming
perennials such as anemone, hardy
sunflowers, sedums, and toad lily. Be
sure to water these plants until they
become well established. Sunflowers can
still be direct seeded to ensure their
colorful show until frost.
Prune hydrangeas after bloom. Flower
buds are formed in late summer and
early fall; pruning later in the year will
remove next year's flowers.
Prune clematis and wisteria when they
are finished flowering.
Harvest vegetables regularly to keep your
garden productive. The bigger the squash
get the fewer you will have.
Plant green beans by July 10.
If necessary, cover fruit trees with netting
to protect the fruit from birds.
Prune blackberries after harvest has
ended. Remove the dying fruiting canes
and tip back the vigorous, new growth
two or three times to form a dense hedge
for greater fruit production.
Begin preparing your fall garden. Set out
broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower
transplants and sow lettuce, collards,
kale, and spinach seeds in late July or
early August for harvest before the first
freeze.
Lawn Care
June 2010
4
Your grass will be fine if you stop
watering your lawn and let it go dormant.
As cooler weather and rainfall return, it
will revive. If you prefer that your lawn
be green and lush through summer, mow
at a higher height and water deeply.
Watering in the early morning is best.
What is it? Answer…Slugs
Slugs are closely related to snails and differ
from them by the absence of an external shell.
Slugs feed on flowers, vegetables, and
ornamentals, and are especially injurious to
seedlings. Moreover, they get into cellars, on
walks, and similar places around the house,
leaving a trail of mucus or slime. Occasionally
they feed on stored vegetables and other plant
materials.
DESCRIPTION
There is a number of species of slugs;
fortunately, their behavior and control is
somewhat similar. The following information is
applicable to most of them. Slugs are 1/4 to 10
inches long, depending on the species. Most are
less than one inch long. They vary in color from cream to gray to black; some species are covered with
dark spots.
LIFE HISTORY
Slugs have three stages in their life cycle: eggs, immature stage and adults. The young are similar in
appearance to the adults except for size. Slugs may overwinter in any stage. They may survive the winter
by living in protected places such as in burrows and under decaying vegetation, clods of earth, stones,
boards, logs, and loose bark, to mention a few places. Slugs begin to move, hatch, feed, and lay eggs
when the temperature is above 40o F. They become adults in 3 to 12 months, depending on species,
food available, temperature, and humidity. Warm, damp weather in the spring and fall favor their
development. Hot, dry summers are unfavorable. Although slugs are ordinarily nocturnal, they will move
and feed on cloudy, damp days. During hot weather, they will be found in damp vegetation, under
boards, stones, and in other cool places.
CONTROL
Sanitation -- Remove the resting and breeding places of slugs, such as loose boards, bricks, stones, trash
piles, compost piles, weeds, and other such material.
Traps -- Set out boards or burlap bags in the evening. Wet the traps and immediate surroundings.
Remove trapped slugs the next morning and drop them in kerosene. Another way to trap slugs is to bury
a shallow metal tray in the ground so the tray edge is level with the soil surface. Slugs are attracted to
beer placed in the trays; they then fall in and drown.
Natural Enemies -- Toads, some beetles and their larvae, parasitic flies, birds, chickens, and ducks are
natural enemies of slugs but are not very dependable. Cultivating the soil will hasten drying of the
surface and in turn will reduce slug activity.
Source Penn State Entomology http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/slugs-and-their-control
June 2010
5
July 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meetings
August 7, 2010 Dunlap 10 AM
Citizens Tri-County Bank Training Center
Got seeds or plants want to share bring them to the next meeting
The training center is located in the Depot Center next to the main branch of Citizen’s
Tri-County Bank 15699 Rankin Avenue, Dunlap
Sequatchie County Fair
July 19-24, 2010 Workers will be needed Monday the 19th and Tuesday 20th
Bledsoe County Fair
August 10-14, 2010
Steak and Potatoes Field Day
Tuesday, August 03, 2010 8:00 am
Plateau Research & Education Center, Crossville, TN
Fall Gardeners Festival
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips
Dealing with Summer Heat
___________________
August 31, 2010
Plateau Discovery Garden, Plateau Research & Education Center, Crossville, TN
“A perfect summer day is
when the sun is shining,
the breeze is blowing, the
birds are singing, and the
lawn mower is broken.”
~ James Dent ~
Hours
Fall Covered Dish and Social
September 18 - Tentatively set for Sunnyside Community Center 4:00PM
This is a family get-together so bring the family and a covered dish.
Don’t forget that the year is half gone. If you have hours please
record them on-line or see that they get turned in. I have to
send or reference on-line entries for the 100 hours. So Please
turn in or enter your hours!
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
July 2010 Plant of the Month
Ornamental Mullein
Submitted by Beth Willis
Ornamental Mullein, the common name for
a number of Verbascum hybrids, can be a
charming addition to your garden. Although
most are either biennials or short-lived
perennials, they are remarkably lowmaintenance plants with a long season of
bloom if you keep just a few things in mind
while siting them.
Ornamental Mullein has an upright vertical
form, with tall flower spikes rising from a basal
rosette of woolly gray-green leaves. Available in
colors ranging from pure white to pinks,
peaches, yellows and lavenders, you are sure to
find one that will work in your garden. Spikes
bloom from top to bottom with large, flat fivepetaled flowers. Fuzzy purple or dark pink
stamens (in most varieties) add to the appeal.
Blooming begins in late spring and continues
through late summer or even into autumn
depending on the variety.
Verbascum, a member of the Figwort
family, is native to Europe and Asia although
some of the more than 250 species in the genus
have naturalised in North America and other
parts of the world. Many of the species are
weedy rather than ornamental although they
do have herbal uses. Native Americans used
ground seed as a paralytic fish poison. Others
have created medicines and dyes from the
plants. Even the woolly leaves have been put to
use, as the common names Poor Man’s Blanket
and Cowboy Toilet Paper attest.
Ornamental Mullein thrives in full sun in
zones 5 to 8. It is very susceptible to root rot if
drainage is not adequate, but so long as it is
given good drainage it is not picky about soil
type. In fact, Ornamental Mullein is well suited
to the sandy or rocky soils found in rock
gardens. It also works well in borders or cottage
gardens with more fertile soils. It has no serious
disease or pest problems and has few
maintenance needs, but deadheading spent
flower spikes can help prolong blooming.
Ornamental Mulleins tend to be either biennials
'Jackie in Pink' is among the popular ornamental
mullein cultivars in zones 5 - 8. Photo from the
UT Gardens collection by B. Willis
or short-lived perennials in the garden, but they
can be propagated by root cuttings from late
winter to early spring.
In the last decade a number of ornamental
hybrid cultivars have been introduced. These
hybrids offer new bloom colors and color
combinations, shorter plant sizes, and larger
blooms. ‘Southern Charm’, a soothing blend of
creamy yellows, lavenders, and peachy-pinks,
grows to a height of 2 ft to 2.5 ft in the garden.
‘Caribbean Crush’ can reach heights between 2
ft and 4 ft and boasts a bright blend of tropical
yellows, oranges, and lavenders on individual
plants. ‘Jackie in Pink’ and ‘Jackie in Yellow’ are
compact varieties (heights to 18 inches) that
will even work well in containers. ‘Sixteen
Candles’ and ‘Wedding Candles’, with profuse
blooms of yellow and white respectively, will
reach a height of 3 ft to 3.5 ft in the garden.
July 2010
2
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
August Gardening Tips
August is the time to reap the benefits of the
hard work you have been putting into the garden
since March. Gardeners everywhere should be
rejoicing in how well their gardens have
blossomed.
One chore you can put off in August is
pruning trees and shrubs, particularly hedging
plants such as boxwood, hemlock and hollies.
Pruning late in the season can stimulate new
growth that will not harden off in time for the
cold winter weather.
August chores recommended to fill your lazy
summer days and keep your garden and
landscape in top condition:
Control crabgrass and other weeds that have
invaded your lawn and garden. Weeds will be
an even bigger problem next year if you let
them go to seed. If you want to use chemical
control, be sure to select the appropriate
herbicide for the location and follow label
instructions.
August is a great time to plant perennials in
pots to add late-season color to your garden.
Remember to keep tall flowers staked.
Be sure to keep garden mums well fertilized
until buds show color.
Check water needs daily. During the hot days
of August, hanging baskets and containers
tend to dry out daily.
The fallen leaves below your roses and
peonies need to be cleaned out to avoid
diseases and insect invasion during the
winter months.
Pick summer vegetables every day or two to
keep the plants producing.
Take plenty of photos of your garden so next
year you can refer back to them to see which
plants you liked or disliked.
Hummingbirds migrate in August so keep
feeders full. Also, change the water in bird
baths regularly. Standing water is less healthy
for the birds, and it may become a breeding
ground for mosquito larvae.
Fertilize azaleas, pieris, mountain laurel and
other ericaceous (acid-loving) species before
the end of August. Use an acid-based soluble
fertilizer containing iron. Also fertilize roses
to encourage last new growth and hardening
off before frost.
Fertilize tall fescue and Bermuda lawns in late
August using a high nitrogen fertilizer of a
5:1:1 ratio. If the lawn needs extensive
renovation and aeration, however, wait until
early September.
Early September is the month to start
fertilizing fescue and other cool season
lawns, if you have not taken a soil test
recently now might just be the time to do so.
Spray the underside of leaves with an
appropriate insecticide, insecticidal soap or a
summer oil to control sap-feeding lacebugs.
Dig potatoes after the tops have died down.
Sow seeds for late crops of beets, bush
beans, cabbage, carrots, collards, kale,
lettuce, peas, spinach, turnips, kohlrabi and
onions until August 15th. Transplants can still
be planted of broccoli, early cabbage,
cauliflower, collards, kale and onions as well.
As Japanese beetles return to the soil late in
the month, treat for grubs with milky spore
disease or beneficial nematodes. This will
reduce winter mole destruction on your lawn.
Mow the lawn on a high setting if the
weather is dry.
Keep everything well watered.
July 2010
3
Avoiding Heat-Related Problems
Adapted from Carol A. Rice, Ph.D., R.N., Professor and Extension Specialist, Texas AgriLife Extension
Service, Texas A&M System.
Types of Heat-Related Problems
Heat Cramps – symptoms include painful
cramping and spasms of legs, arms and/or
abdominal (stomach) muscles.
Heat Exhaustion – symptoms include feeling
tired, weak, and dizzy; headache, nausea and
possible vomiting. Heavy perspiration; skin
feels moist.
Heat Stroke – symptoms include feeling tired,
weak and dizzy. Skin feels hot and dry, even
under armpits; appears red and flushed. May
become delirious and unconscious. This is a
life threatening situation! Call 911.
Reducing Your Risks
1. Drink lots of cool water
Drink lots of cool water, even more than you
think you need, when the weather is hot and
humid. (High humidity makes heat injuries
more likely because perspiration does not
evaporate from the skin as quickly; this
causes the body to cool down more slowly.)
Water is best; fruit and vegetable juices are
good, too.
Drink at least a gallon of liquid a day (about
16 glasses) when the outside temperature is
above 90 degrees and you are not in airconditioned surroundings. This will mean
drinking 1 1/2 times as much liquid as your
thirst signals you to drink.
Overweight people need even more water
during summer than average weight people.
Do not drink beer or other alcoholic
beverages, coffee, tea or other drinks
containing caffeine because they cause you
to lose fluid.
heart disease or high blood pressure, ask
your doctor about your salt intake.
3. Wear light-colored clothes
Wear light-colored clothes that are loosely
woven and absorbent. Cotton is best; it
absorbs 40 percent of its weight in moisture.
Most synthetic (manmade) materials trap
body heat and are not absorbent. Wear a hat
to shade your head.
4. Avoid outside activities during the heat of
the day
If you are required to work outside, take
frequent breaks and drinks of cool water. Do
not run or do other types of energetic
exercise during the heat of the day. Get wet,
wear wet clothing, or bathe/shower as often
as possible without drying yourself—this
gives your body cooling system a boost.
5. If there is no air conditioning:
Use a fan.
Open windows wide to create as much cross
ventilation as possible.
If your apartment or home is shaded from
the sun at certain times of the day, the
windows should be open on that side, and
the drapes/shades should be closed on the
sunny side of your home or apartment.
Avoid cooking.
Go to a cool place, if possible, like the library,
the senior center, the theater, or the
shopping center during the heat of the day.
Take frequent, cool baths or showers.
6. Older people are more sensitive to heat
Realize that older people are more
sensitive to heat and may easily suffer
heat-related sickness. Also, anyone with
diabetes, heart disease, arteriosclerosis,
high blood pressure, or Parkinson’s
Disease is more sensitive to the effects of
heat.
2. Maintain normal salt intake
Maintain normal salt intake in your diet (1
1/2 teaspoons or less per day). If you have
July 2010
4
You Know You’re A Master Gardener When….
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
Your neighbors recognize you in your pajamas, rubber clogs and a cup of coffee.
You grab other people’s banana peels, coffee grinds, apple cores, etc. for your compost pile.
You have to wash your hair to get your fingernails clean.
All your neighbors come and ask you questions.
You know the temperature of your compost every day.
You buy a bigger truck so that you can haul more mulch.
You enjoy crushing Japanese beetles because you like the sound that it makes.
Your boss makes “taking care of the office plants” an official part of your job description.
Everything you touch turns to “fertilizer”.
Your non-gardening spouse becomes conversant in botanical names.
You find yourself feeling leaves, flowers and trunks of trees wherever you go, even at funerals.
You dumpster-dive for discarded bulbs after commercial landscapers remove them to plant annuals.
You plan vacation trips around the locations of botanical gardens, arboreta, historic gardens, etc.
You sneak home a 7 foot Japanese Maple and wonder if your spouse will notice.
When considering your budget, plants are more important than groceries.
You always carry a shovel, bottled water and a plastic bag in your trunk as emergency tools.
You appreciate your Master Gardener badge more than your jewelry.
You talk “dirt” at baseball practice.
You spend more time chopping your kitchen greens for the compost pile than for cooking.
You like the smell of horse manure better than Estee Lauder.
You rejoice in rain…even after 10 straight days of it.
You have pride in how bad your hands look.
You have a decorative compost container on your kitchen counter.
You can give away plants easily, but compost is another thing.
Soil test results actually mean something.
You understand what IPM means and are happy about it.
You’d rather go to a nursery to shop than a clothes store.
You know that Sevin is not a number.
You take every single person who enters your house on a “garden tour”.
You look at your child’s sandbox and see a raised bed.
You ask for tools for Christmas, Mother/Father’s day, your Birthday and any other occasion you can think of.
You can’t bear to thin seedlings and throw them away.
You scold total strangers who don’t take care of their potted plants.
You know how many bags of fertilizer/potting soil/mulch your car will hold.
You drive around the neighborhood hoping to score extra bags of leaves for your compost pile.
Your preferred reading matter is seed catalogs.
And last but not least:
37. You know that the four seasons are: (a) Planning the Garden, (b) Preparing the Garden (c) Gardening and (d)
Preparing and Planning for the next Garden.
-Author Unknown
From the Master Gardeners of Rutherford County Newsletter “The Scoop” July 2010
http://mastergardeners-rc.org/assets/applets/Newsletter201007.pdf
July 2010
5
Bledsoe County Nursing Home Project
Several days (or more) worth of work has gone into this project to build planters for residents to enjoy. The
planters are also intended to provide physical theory for residents.
Planted in the beds were: Tomatoes (Patio); Cucumbers; Zucchini; Onions; Sweet peppers; Poblano Peppers;
Basil – two varieties; Dwarf Sunflowers; Vinca
July 2010
6
August 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips
Bed Bugs
Emerald Ash Borer
___________________
Bulb: potential flower
buried in Autumn, never
to be seen again.
-Henry Beard –
Dates to Remember
Fall Gardeners Festival
August 31, 2010
Plateau Discovery Garden, Plateau Research & Education Center, Crossville, TN
Reflection Riding 2010 Fall Open House & Native Plant Sale
September 11 & 12
Fall is the best time to plant, so be certain to come out and find something special for
your garden from our hundreds of native trees, shrubs and wildflowers.
The Fall Native Plant Sale features hearty native plants, guided wildflower walks, a
variety of talks on gardening/wildlife/conservation topics and a few longer hikes
exploring the Riding property, demonstration and activities for children, and live
bluegrass music.
Hours: Saturday, 9am to 5pm, and Sunday, 1 to 5pm. Free Admission.
http://www.reflectionriding.org/
Fall Covered Dish and Social
September 18 - Sunnyside Community Center 4:00PM
This is a family get-together so bring the family and a covered dish.
See directions on last page
Hours
Don’t forget that the year is half gone. If you have hours please record them on-line or
see that they get turned in. I have to send or reference on-line entries for the 100
hours. So please turn in or enter your hours!
shelsgarden.com/trivia.html
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
August 2010 Plant of the Month
Lenten Rose
Are you thinking about the 2011 garden
season and are asking, “What plant has interest
that I can enjoy throughout all the seasons?”
Lenten Rose, or Helleborus x hybridus, may be
the answer. Lenten Rose is a durable perennial
that performs well in shade gardens, has
evergreen foliage and produces colorful blooms
in early spring.
Lenten Rose has recently been named the
2005 Perennial Plant of the Year by the
Perennial Plant Association, a national
organization dedicated to the promotion of
perennial plants.
There are several reasons to include this
plant in your garden. In late winter to early
spring, Lenten Rose starts to bloom and will
continue to do so for up to three months.
Bloom colors range from white and light pink to
red and deep purple. There are single- and
double-flowering forms and bicolor blooms,
too.
After flowering, enjoy the clean, dark green
foliage that makes this plant a must-have in any
shade garden. Clumps are generally 2 feet wide
by 2 feet tall, and the foliage adds a unique bold
texture to the shaded landscape. For this,
Lenten Rose makes a perfect backdrop for the
delicate blooms of spring-flowering bulbs and
other perennials, such as Bleeding Heart
(Dicentra spectabilis). If the foliage gets tattered
and rough-looking in late winter, simply cut it
back as the new leaves emerge. Doing this prior
to blooming also improves the display of the
blooms.
This easy-to-grow plant prefers a rich, welldrained soil. It should be planted in a partial
shade to full shade location. Once established,
Lenten Rose is a tough, drought tolerant
perennial.
Lenten Rose also requires very little care.
Unlike many other garden perennials, Lenten
Rose does not typically require dividing every 35 years. According to the Perennial Plant
Association, established clumps of Lenten Rose
can be left alone for up to 20 years. If your
Lenten Rose needs dividing, keep in mind that it
will take the divisions a little time to recover.
This plant recovers from dividing slower than
most, so it will appreciate a little patience and
tender care.
Lenten Rose is a great shade perennial to
pair with other plant textures and colors like
ferns and impatiens. This plant is also a good
companion to other early spring bloomers, such
as Barrenwort (Epimedium sp.).
Lenten Rose is used quite nicely as either a
specimen plant or in mass in a shade garden.
Allow this plant to naturalize in a woodland
setting. Because flowers can hang just below
the foliage, consider planting Lenten Rose on a
slope or hillside to enjoy viewing the flowers
from another angle. For those whose gardens
are typically buffets for deer, good news!
Lenten Rose is a deer-resistant perennial!
Plant Lenten Rose in your garden now and
enjoy its evergreen foliage all year. When it gets
to be late winter next year, and there seems to
be nothing to enjoy out in your garden, your
Lenten Rose will signal that it’s time to look
forward to spring.
The delicate flowers of Lenten Rose make a perfect
backdrop for spring-flowering bulbs and other perennials.
Photo taken by Hugh Conlon, UT Extension Area
Ornamental Horticulture Specialist.
August 2010
2
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
September Gardening Tips
Children are back in school. The weather is
beginning to change, and the calendar says it is
time to wind up the summer growing season and
prepare your fall garden. Experts from the
University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture
recommend performing the following chores as
you prepare for autumn:
Create and work on your landscape plan
for fall planting of trees and shrubs.
Assess areas within your garden beds
that need planting.
Purchase spring-flowering bulbs for fall
planting.
Divide and transplant perennials in your
garden beds. If you have more plants
than you need, share a few with your
neighbor.
If frost threatens, bring tender plants
inside for the winter. Be sure to inspect
for insect pests!
Dig up tender bulbs, such as caladium
and dahlia, and store them in a cool, dry
location.
Plant late-season annuals including
ornamental kale and cabbage, giant red
mustard, pansies, violas and
chrysanthemums.
Keep planting cool season veggies, such
as Swiss chard, parsley, broccoli,
cabbage, lettuce and radish.
Continue to harvest veggies and herbs.
Consider harvesting flowers such as
Gomphrena, Celosia,and yarrow for fresh
and/or dried flower arrangements.
Collect seed from this year's annuals and
perennials for next year's garden.
Fertilize roses one last time. Prune dead
or diseased canes.
Prune rambling roses.
De-thatch and aerate existing lawns. This
helps to stimulate and promote root
growth.
Take photos of and write notes about this
year's garden. How did your garden
perform? What plants or techniques
worked? What didn't? What would you
like to do in your garden in the future?
These notes and pictures will help you
when preparing your garden next season.
Start filling up bird feeders for our finefeathered friends.
Blossom-end Rot
With the hot dry weather blossom-end rot can become a problem in tomatoes, peppers, and
watermelons. Low levels of calcium and low soil moisture are causes of this problem.
August 2010
3
Emerald Ash Borer Discovered in East Tennessee
- Plans underway to survey and restrict movement of ash material in Knox, Loudon counties (the following is a Tennessee Department news release)
Emerald Ash Borer
David Cappaert, Michigan State University, Bugwood.org
Nashville, Tenn. – The Tennessee Department
of Agriculture today announced the discovery of
emerald ash borer (EAB), the first detection of
the destructive tree pest in the state. The
discovery was made last week at a truck stop in
Knox County near the Loudon County line.
“We knew EAB could potentially reach
Tennessee, and we’re prepared to help slow the
spread of the infestation and protect our forest
resources.” said state Agriculture Commissioner
Ken Givens. “We will be working closely with
federal officials and other stakeholders to
determine the extent of the infestation and to
take steps to limit its spread.”
After receiving a report of a suspected find,
state and federal officials collected specimens
from infested logs for submission to the U.S.
Department of Agriculture for positive
identification. USDA confirmed the find late last
week.
EAB attacks only ash trees. It is believed to
have been introduced into the Detroit, Mich. area
15 to 20 years ago on wood packing material
from Asia. Since then, the destructive insect has
been found also in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa,
Kentucky, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, New
York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia
and Wisconsin.
In response to the find, TDA plans to issue a
quarantine in Knox and Loudon counties
prohibiting the movement of firewood, ash
nursery stock, ash timber and other material that
can spread EAB. TDA plant inspectors and
foresters will conduct a thorough survey of trees
in the areas to assess the extent of the
infestation. The USDA Animal and Plant Health
Inspection Service is working closely with TDA in
response and will likely issue a federal quarantine
in the coming days in support of national efforts
to control the spread of EAB.
Typically, the Emerald Ash Borer beetles can
kill an ash tree within three years of the initial
infestation. Adults are dark green, one-half inch
in length and one-eighth inch wide, and fly only
from April until September, depending on the
climate of the area. In Tennessee, most EAB
adults would fly in May and June. Larvae spend
the rest of the year beneath the bark of ash trees.
When they emerge as adults, they leave Dshaped holes in the bark about one-eighth inch
wide.
The Tennessee Department of Agriculture
Division of Forestry estimates that 10 million
urban ash trees in Tennessee are potentially at
risk from EAB. The risk represents an estimated
value loss of $2 billion. There are an estimated
261 million ash trees on Tennessee public and
private timberland potentially valued as high as
$9 billion.
TDA officials urge area residents and visitors
to help prevent the spread of EAB:
Don’t transport firewood, even within
Tennessee. Don’t bring firewood along for
camping trips. Buy the wood you need from a
local source. Don’t bring wood home with you.
Don’t buy or move firewood from
outside the state. If someone comes to your
door selling firewood, ask them about the source,
and don’t buy wood from outside the state.
Watch for signs of infestation in your
ash trees. If you suspect your ash tree could be
infested with EAB, visit
www.TN.gov/agriculture/eab for an online
symptoms checklist and report form or call TDA’s
Regulatory Services Division at 1-800-628-2631.
August 2010
4
Sunnyside Community Center
From Pikeville:
US 127 south approx 6 miles to College Station Mountain Rd.
Turn left (east) on College Station Mountain Rd and follow it for 1.5 miles to Lower East Valley Rd
Turn right (south) on Lower East Valley Rd and continue for 4 miles the building is on the left.
From Dunlap:
Hwy 111 to East Valley Rd
Turn north on East Valley Rd continue for 4.5 miles building is on right
August 2010
5
September 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
Dates to Remember
Pikeville Fall Festival
October 1-2
Quarterly Meeting
November 6 10:00 AM Pikeville, details to follow.
Thousand Cankers Disease found in Tennessee
NASHVILLE – The Tennessee Department of Agriculture
today announced the discovery of Thousand Cankers
Disease (TCD), the first detection of the destructive tree
pest east of the Mississippi River. The discovery was made
in July by a TDA forester.
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips
___________________
A black walnut tree branch
infected with Thousand
Cankers Disease.
“The discovery of TCD in Tennessee is unexpected, but
we’re prepared to help slow the spread of the infestation
and protect our forest resources.” said State Agriculture
Commissioner Ken Givens. “We will be working closely with
stakeholders to determine the extent of the infestation
and to take steps to limit its spread.”
(continued page 2)
TN.gov Newsroom
The onion is a lily, botanically.
Asparagus is also a member of
the lily family. The name
"asparagus" comes from a Greek
word meaning "sprout".
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
TCD is a progressive disease that kills a tree
within two to three years after initial infection.
The disease-causing fungus, Geosmithia, is
transmitted by a small twig beetle. Branches
and trunk tissue are killed by repeated
infections by the fungus, as the beetles carry
the fungus into new bark.
The TCD discovery comes a week after emerald
ash borer (EAB) was found. Both TCD and EAB
have the potential to cause significant damage
to Tennessee forests. It is imperative that
citizens work to prevent the spread of both.
In response to the find, TDA plans to issue a
quarantine in Knox county prohibiting the
movement of firewood and black walnut
nursery stock and limiting the movement of
black walnut timber and other material that can
spread TCD. TDA plant inspectors and foresters
will conduct a thorough survey of trees in the
areas to assess the extent of the infestation and
to see if more quarantines are warranted.
The Tennessee Department of Agriculture
Division of Forestry estimates that 1.38 million
black walnut trees in Tennessee’s urban areas
are potentially at risk from TCD. The risk
represents an estimated value loss of $1.37
billion. There are an estimated 26 million black
walnut trees on Tennessee public and private
timberland potentially valued as high as 1.47
billion dollars.
TDA officials urge area residents and visitors to
help prevent the spread of TCD and EAB:
Don’t transport firewood, even within
Tennessee. Don’t bring firewood along
for camping trips. Buy the wood you
need from a local source. Don’t bring
wood home with you.
Don’t buy or move firewood from
outside the state. If someone comes to
your door selling firewood, ask them
about the source, and don’t buy wood
from outside the state.
Watch for signs of infestation in your black
walnut trees. If you suspect your black walnut
tree could be infested with TCD, visit
www.TN.gov/agriculture/tcd for an online
symptoms checklist and report form or call
TDA’s Regulatory Services Division at 1-800628-2631.
For more information about other programs
and services of the Tennessee Department of
Agriculture visit www.tn.gov/agriculture.
More information on Thousand Cankers can be found at
http://eppserver.ag.utk.edu/ThousandCankers.html
Walnut twig beetle, side view.
Photograph by Jim LaBonte, Oregon
Department of Agriculture.
http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/PPDL/pubs/wa
lnutthousandcankersdisease.pdf
Walnut twig beetle and associated staining
around tunnel
http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/PPDL/pubs/waln
utthousandcankersdisease.pdf
September 2010
2
September 2010 Plant of the Month
Glossy Abelia
Submitted by James Newburn, Assistant Director of the UT Gardens
‘Canyon Creek’ is a rounded Glossy Abeilia with dense
foliage. New growth maintains its copper to burgundy
colored stems, which contrast nicely with the pink starshaped flowers.
If you are looking for a great plant of
interest for the transition from summer to fall
you may want to consider Glossy Abelia. In fact,
this multi-stemmed woody shrub has attributes
that make it a desirable addition to the
landscape year round.
This old fashioned shrub often has long
arching canes that provide a graceful profile
that is filled with fragrant soft pink blooms. It
can start blooming as early as late May but
continues to bloom all summer into mid fall,
including September, when summer annuals
are fading before fall foliage appears.
Glossy Abelia, or Abelia x grandiflora, gets
its name from the shiny leaves of the shrub. In
the Southeast these leaves are semi-evergreen
and remain on the plant all year. There are
several cultivars available that offer a variety of
leaf color and growth habit.
‘Canyon Creek’ is a nice rounded shrub with
dense foliage. New growth is copper colored,
but it then turns to yellow and finally green. The
plant often maintains its copper to burgundy
colored stems, which contrast nicely with the
pink star-shaped flowers.
‘Kaleidoscope’ is a wonderful introduction
that has a more tubular flower and blooms in
clusters. Its foliage has a slightly golden
variegation on bronze stems that again
contrasts with the blush pink blooms. Once the
blooming stops the flower’s copper colored
sepals remain and continue to provide showy
color. With all these subtle colors on one plant
it is no wonder this plant has kaleidoscope as its
name. Both of these cultivars tend towards a
copper bronze color in fall and don’t lose many
of their leaves.
Glossy Abelia is very easy to grow in the
South. It requires full sun but will tolerate
partial shade. It is also not terribly
temperamental when it comes to soil, adapting
to a wide variety of conditions. Once
established it is reasonably drought resistant
too, although some leaf drop and fewer blooms
may occur with extended periods of drought.
Pruning does not usually become an issue if
given enough room to grow in the first place.
Typical shrubs grow to about 5-6’ with smaller
dwarf cultivars reaching 3-4’. There is even a
prostrate form that grows 1-2’ with a spreading
ground hugging habit. The graceful arching
canes are one of this shrub’s attributes which
along with the small leaves give it a fine texture
in the garden. Selectively pruning older canes
will encourage new growth but maintain the
shape and texture.
There are few shrubs that offer year round
interest, but Glossy Abelia is one that comes
close.
September 2010
3
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
October Gardening Tips
October is typically Tennessee’s driest month,
so be sure your garden doesn’t get too dry. Here
are some fall gardening tips from the University of
Tennessee Institute of Agriculture:
Perennials, annuals, and bulbs
Weed your garden one last time. Eliminating
weeds now may prevent problems next
spring.
Plant spring-flowering bulbs in late October
and early November.
Collect wildflower seeds. Sow them now or
early next spring.
Plant winter annuals for a show of color until
spring. Great plants to try include pansies,
violas and snapdragons. Winter-hardy herbs
like parsley, thyme and rosemary make good
container companions with winter annuals.
Cut back withering perennial blooms and add
fresh mulch. Follow mulching with a preemergent herbicide to prevent winter weeds.
Plant mums now.
Keep your grounds raked clean of leaves and
debris. Add fallen leaves, old plant parts and
grass clippings to the compost pile.
Lawn Care
Renew your tall fescue lawn. Nitrogencontaining fertilizers can speed grass growth,
thicken the lawn and improve its color. Seed
and mulch bare areas to control erosion and
reduce weed problems.
Core aerify your lawn to help water and
nutrients move into hardsoils. If your lawn is
thin and you intend to seed, a power rake can
lift thatch and expose soil before planting. It is
best to seed lawns by mid October, but
fertilizer can be applied as late as mid
December.
Fruits and veggies
Harvest pumpkins, summer squashes, and
gourds before the first frost. Pumpkins that
are showing color will continue to ripen after
harvest.
Dig and divide congested clumps of rhubarb.
Plant apple trees now. Select disease-resistant
varieties.
Keep harvesting cool-season vegetables. Frost
actually enhances the flavor of parsnips,
Brussels sprouts and kale.
Plant individual cloves of garlic for a crop next
summer. Select very large cloves to produce
the largest bulbs. Plant them 6 inches deep
and at least 6 inches apart. Mulch them after
the ground freezes for winter protection.
Mulch root crops such as carrots, onions, and
parsnips to keep the ground around them
from freezing. They can be dug up as needed
during winter.
Clean around fruit trees. If diseases or insects
wiped out your fruit crop this year, destroy
fallen fruit and remove fruit that has
mummified on the tree. They will cause an
early attack next year. Consider using a home
fruit spray schedule available from your
county Agricultural Extension office.
Plant a cover crop of clovers, cow peas,
soybeans, or vetches over your summer
garden. Plan to plow it under next spring.
These nitrogen-producing plants provide good
organic matter and food for next year’s
garden as well as help to control weeds over
the winter.
Odds and Ends
Plant trees and shrubs. Be sure to water well
until rainfall picks up in November and
December.
Decorate your garden for fall. Displays can
also add a festive touch to a front porch,
landscape or strategic places like a light post
or the driveway entrance.
September 2010
4
Store amaryllis in a cool spot (40 to 50
degrees) for a two-month rest. Begin watering
again 9 to 12 weeks before you want it to
flower.
Place Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus in an
east or north window. Fertilize them once
more. Let them dry out more between
waterings to help stimulate blossoms.
Start a compost pile. Fall is the ideal time to
start composting. Use materials such as fallen
leaves and gleanings from vegetable and
flower gardens. Your county Agricultural
Extension office has information on how to
compost.
Provide migrating birds food for their journey.
You might persuade a few to stick around if
they know they have a reliable food source.
Hours
Don’t forget that the year is three-quarters gone. If you have hours please record them on-line or see
that they get turned in. I have to send or reference on-line entries for the 100 hours. So please turn in
or enter your hours! Right now we have 5 with over 100 hours completed and certified, and 2 or 3 more
well on their way to 100.
“Burning Where you buy it” – don’t move firewood!
Resourced from the USDA – APHIS.GOV WEBSITE
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/newsroom/hot_issues/firewood/index.shtml
Whether used to heat
your home or build a
campfire, firewood is a musthave item for millions of
Americans. However,
firewood also presents a very
real threat to the Nation’s
forests. Invasive species including the Asian
longhorned beetle (ALB) and emerald ash borer
(EAB) can be spread into new areas of the country
on firewood. To date, ALB and EAB have been
detected in a total of 13 States and without
intervention the continued spread of these pests
is likely. To this end, APHIS is combating these
invasive pests with quarantines, public awareness
campaigns and other efforts in known infested
areas, while some States have adopted
regulations limiting the movement of firewood.
However, these actions alone are not enough; it is
up to all of us to contribute to the preservation of
our Nation’s forests by committing to not move
firewood from where it is cut. By “burning where
you buy it” you can be sure that you’re not
accidentally moving these
damaging forest pests into new
areas.
Bringing firewood from home
to the place your camping could
put your favorite campsite or park
in danger. Thousands of
campgrounds are scattered throughout the United
States and camping is a popular recreational
activity for millions of people each year. Campfires
are an integral part of camping, and campers
often bring their own firewood due to the cost
and quality of firewood provided at or near
campgrounds. Some campers have been known to
bring firewood from one side of the country to
another.
Firewood is often made from diseased or
insect-ridden or killed trees, and curing or drying
times for firewood can be as little as three
months. People camp more often during the
summer and early fall months, and insects or
other pests are most active during these seasons.
Movement of firewood by campers is often
September 2010
5
limited to 100 or 200 miles, presenting a
substantial risk for exacerbating the spread of
pests locally. Because some campers move
firewood long distances, this is a greater risk for
new long distance spread infestations.
As an example of a specific camping-related
activity, stockcar racing is a popular spectator
sport for millions of people in the United States.
Races take place from February through
November at venues scattered throughout the
country and many fans camp while traveling the
circuit. In 2006, after an employee at Great Smoky
Mountains National Park noticed a visitor with
firewood coming from an EAB-quarantined area.
USDA-APHIS Plant Protection and Quarantine
(PPQ) Agency conducted a firewood survey in
eastern Tennessee, including Sullivan County,
where the Bristol Motor Speedway is located.
Campgrounds near the speedway hosted campers
from 40 different states; campers from 14 states
had transported firewood to the race. Four
seizures were made in violation of EAB
quarantines, approximating 120 pieces of
firewood (Pentico, 2006). The hardwood firewood
seizures came from Michigan, Indiana, and the
Canadian province of Ontario, localities over 500
miles from the campgrounds. Additionally, most
of the out of state visitors with firewood came
from Florida, North Carolina, Georgia, and other
southern states. This is noteworthy because the
redbay ambrosia beetle, Xyleborus glabratus, is
associated with a fungal pathogen, Raffaelea
lauricola, which causes laurel wilt disease (LWD)
and kills trees in the Lauraceae family, including
redbay, sassafrass, and others. These tree species
occur in LWD-infected areas and are often utilized
as firewood. Similar blitzes were conducted in the
Bristol, TN, area in 2007 and 2008. In 2008, a total
of 29 firewood seizures occurred. Of these
seizures, 75% of the people moving firewood
knew about the quarantines, but moved the wood
out of the quarantined areas anyway.
Conversely, people who made reservations at
campgrounds that expressly directed people not
to bring firewood with them did not bring
firewood, thus demonstrating the potential
efficacy of citizen outreach programs. Much work
has been done to raise awareness of the issues
surrounding the movement of firewood by
campers, and it does appear that people are
becoming aware of the associated risks and that
some are altering their habits. Many campgrounds
and state forestry agencies are adding their
assistance and urging visitors to parks and
campgrounds to leave firewood at home and
purchase it locally.
When you bring firewood camping, you risk
carrying a tree killing insect or disease. The bugs
can crawl out, spread to the trees and forest at
the campground or state or national park, and
begin to destroy those trees and forests. That
means less fun for future campers. We are all
careful to extinguish campfires, pick up after
ourselves in campgrounds, state parks and
national parks, so we should be conscientious
campers when it comes to moving firewood as
well.
What can you do to stop the spread of
invasive pests on firewood?
Never take firewood with you – always
buy it near where you will burn it.
Tell your friends and family members not
to move firewood.
Firewood you buy should be from only a
few miles away, or at least in the same
county of the park you are staying.
For more information on the risk of moving
firewood, click on the following link
http://www.dontmovefirewood.org
Check out more technical risk assessments at
the USDA Aphis site,
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/newsroom/hot_issues
/invasivespecies&firewood/downloads/firewood_
pathway_assessment.pdf
September 2010
6
October 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of the
Month
Garden tips
___________________
Dates to Remember
Quarterly Meeting
November 6 10:00 AM Pikeville, UT Extension Bledsoe Co. Office (tentative)
Sammye Finley recently picked up a magazine Color Choice© from Proven Winners.
This plant breeding company has several magazines and catalogs on-line at
www.provenwinners.com.
Sequatchie Co 4-H Senior Forestry Judging Team wins State
The Sequatchie County 4-H Senior
Forestry Judging Team placed First in the
Forestry Judging Contest at the State 4-H
Fall Judging Event in Knoxville October 9,
2010. Team members competing were:
Sam Scott, Brendan Harvey, Ralph Hale,
and Christian Watts. Also recognized
were Christian Watts the individual high
scorer at the contest, Ralph Hale second
high individual scorer and Brendan
Harvey third high individual. The team
From left to right are Sheldon Barker
will represent Tennessee at the National 4(Extension agent), Christian Watts, Samuel
H Forestry Invitational near Weston, West
Scott, Brendan Harvey and Ralph Hale.
Virginia in July 2011.
4-H members compete in several
areas including Tree identification, insect and disease identification, tree
measurement, wood identification, site evaluation, and compass and pacing.
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
Fire ants and Honey
In a past issue (January 2010) we mentioned several “home remedies” that are recommended for
Fire Ant Control. A recent twitter stream has suggested using boric acid mixed with honey to attract and
kill the ants. While this may actually work, UT Entomologist warn that this method used outside would
be illegal in many states, but more importantly unethical.
Honeybees will readily collect spilled honey. Once one honeybee collects it, it will recruit others to
this rich source of 'nectar'. The pesticides will then impact or kill the hives.
Many states make knowingly baiting syrups with pesticides to kill honeybees illegal (Tennessee is
one of the states), since this has been a problem. The Law in Tennessee reads in part: “Prohibited: (2)
Placing in a location that is accessible to free-flying honeybees any honey, sugar syrup, corn syrup, or
other substance known to be attractive to bees and to which some pesticide or other substance harmful
to honeybees has been added.” The full text can be found at http://acbeekeepers.org/ (click "TN Apiary
Law", left column).
Pruning 101
With cold months, it is time to think about pruning, a task that may not be as daunting as many
think. First, you need to know why you are going to prune: that answers a lot of the when and how
questions.
You may be pruning to remove damaged, diseased, or dead tissue from your trees or shrubs. This
can be done at almost any time. The one exception would be when you are removing a fungal disease.
In that case, do not prune when the fungus is producing spores as that could infect your new cuts.
Otherwise, remove dead or dying branches when you find them. Also, if all you want to do is remove a
stray branch, you can do that at any time.
Other than removing damaged tissue or removing that one unsightly branch, never prune in the
spring or fall when the sap is flowing. Summer or winter may be best, depending on the type of plant.
Cutting just the end of a branch that is over 3 inches in diameter will cause a dense growth of sprouts
that will cut off light to the inner part of the tree. Go back to a fork and make your cut just past the
collar (thick area at the base of the branch where it attaches to the trunk or another branch). This will
leave less cut area exposed and allow the cambium layer to grow over the wound.
For branches less than 3 inches in diameter, cut just outside a bud pointed in the direction you
want the branch to continue growing. Slant the cut slightly upward to prevent water from soaking into
the wound. Use hand pruners, long handled loppers or a pruning saw, depending on the size of the
branch.
The next thing to decide is what kind of plant you are pruning. For flowering or fruiting shrubs or
trees, do not cut off branches until after they have flowered or set fruit. So for spring flowering shrubs,
you would do the pruning in the early summer as soon as the flowers have faded. The new growth that
comes after pruning will bear flowers next spring. For summer flowering or fruiting shrubs, wait until
late winter or very early spring before the sap starts running. Late fall is generally a bad time to prune
any tree or shrub because pruning tends to promote new growth. Pruned plants will not have enough
time to “harden” to prevent freeze damage.
In general, whether you want to prune to control size or improve light and air penetration, you
will want to select carefully those branches to remove so that you do not create a hedge (unless that is
what you want!).
From “Pruning 101” By Barbara M. Tobias Polk County Master Gardeners News Articles
http://www.uaex.edu/polk/MG/Articles/pruning_101.htm
October 2010
2
They’re Back! Don’t Let the Bed Bugs Bite
“Good night. Sleep tight. And don’t let the bed bugs bite.”
What many of us grew up thinking was a funny goodnight wish is
once again a genuine expression of well being. Little did we know
that there ARE bed bugs and they DO bite.
A generation of people have never seen bed bugs and didn’t
realize that they really exist. They are back in a big way, and they are
beating out Lindsay Lohan for media attention. They’ve now been
found in hotels, hospitals and homes in Tennessee, and America’s
city, New York, has what many are calling a major infestation. Here
are some resources to help you understand bed bugs, how to
prevent them and what to do if your home becomes their next
abode.
Bed Bugs Making a Comeback in Tennessee, Too!
(http://utextension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB1763.pdf)
by Dr. Karen Vail, University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture urban entomologist
How to Bug Proof Your Home: Bed Bugs
(http://www.extension.org/pages/How_to_Bug_Proof_Your_Home:_Bed_Bugs)
from the national network of land grant universities, eXtension
Beware of Recycled Furniture in Battle Against Bed Bugs
(http://www.extension.org/pages/Beware_of_Recycled_Furniture_in_Battle_Against_Bed_Bug)
from the national network of land grant universities, eXtension
Top Ten Bed Bug Tips from the EPA
(http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/bed-bug-tips.pdf)
Bed Bug Web Sites
(http://eppserver.ag.utk.edu/personnel/Vail/BEDBUG%20WEB%20SITES.pdf)
references from Dr. Karen Vail, University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture urban
entomologist
Bed bug male (on top) and female adults with young
nymphs (Credit: UT E&PP).
If you suspect bed bugs have invaded your
home and need to be sure, contact the UT
Institute of Agriculture Soil, Plant and Pest
Identification Center
(http://soilplantandpest.utk.edu/plantpestdiagnos
is/index.htm) or visit your local county UT
Extension office for assistance with identification.
Homeowners should be aware that bed
bugs, while irksome, are not presently known to
spread disease. They are, however, difficult to
eradicate. Professional exterminating services are
recommend if an infestation is confirmed. The
Tennessee Department of Agriculture's online list
of licensed pest control services
(http://agriculture.state.tn.us/listcharter.asp) can help you located a licensed professional.
Simply search based on your zip code or other available information.
(Photos from: Bed Bugs Making a Comeback in Tennessee, Too! by Dr. Karen Vail).
October 2010
3
October 2010 Plant of the Month
Virginia sweetspire
Now that autumn has arrived, we are all
anticipating the brilliant fall colors that the
season provides. For the most part when we
think of fall foliage what comes to mind are
trees. We anticipate the beautiful maples,
dogwoods, and ginkgos with their bright
orange, red, and yellow leaves. But don’t forget
about shrubs and the wonderful colors they can
provide in the understory or around the
foundation of your home. One of the showiest
of these shrubs is a native shrub called Virginia
sweetspire (Itea virginica).
Sweetspire is a great shrub choice because
it features both summer blossoms and fall
color. Beautiful fragrant creamy white flower
clusters (4 inches to 6 inches long) often droop
and cover the shrub with graceful blossoms in
the summer and make the shrub very attractive
to butterflies and bees. Yet, it is deer resistant.
This shrub can be grown in partial shade to full
sun and can tolerate a variety of soils including
our clay soils. It does need adequate moisture
when first planted (in fact, it will grow well in
boggy areas), but once established it is very low
maintenance. This multi-stemmed shrub
suckers and spreads outward forming colonies.
This habit makes it ideal for erosion control. So
do not plant sweetspire in a confined space.
You will want to give it room to grow.
Virginia sweetspire’s beautiful blossoms are
outshined by its fall foliage. The shrub turns the
most beautiful red-orange to crimson color in
the fall and retains its leaves well into
November, making it ideal for the fall
landscape. One cultivar readily available is
‘Henry’s Garnet’. Growing to about 6 feet tall,
this cultivar has rich crimson fall foliage and
typically holds its leaves longer than the straight
species.
For a compact variety that’s more suitable
to the smaller landscape choose ‘Little Henry’;
this cultivar tops out at about 3 feet tall. This
newer cultivar has much going for it. Its short
growth habit makes ideal for mass planting, on
a bank for example, or by itself as a specimen in
the mixed border. It is even suitable for
container gardening, adding a dramatic focal
point in the center or back of the container. Its
flower spikes are more upright and stay well
above the foliage and its foliage turns
spectacular oranges and reds in autumn, again
retaining its leaves well into late fall.
Virginia sweetspire is a wonderful lowmaintenance, native shrub that can tolerate a
wide range of conditions. Add to that its
fragrant, showy blooms and its stunning fall
color and you have a great plant for any
landscape.
Henry's Garnet’ is among the readily available cultivars of
the native shrub Virginia sweetspire. Its deep red fall
foliage makes the shrub a standout in the autumn
landscape. Photo by C. Reese.
October 2010
4
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
November Gardening Tips
November Gardening Tips
November! This can only mean that
winter is around the corner, and outdoor activities
will be winding down. But there are things you
need to think about during the winter months to
keep your lawn and garden in order.
Shrubs and trees
Plant or transplant trees, shrubs and fruit
crops now. Be sure to mulch newly
planted plants using three to four inches
of mulch.
Prune back late-season-blooming trees
and shrubs.
Fire blight was a problem for some this
spring and now is the time to prune dead
limbs not already removed.
Also clean the orchard and vineyard of
fruit. Mummified fruit on the tree or vine
may indicate disease. Remove the fruit
still hanging and rake and clean around
the plant.
Fertilize trees and shrubs before the
ground freezes to make food
available to plants in early spring.
Protect roses for the winter.
Perennials, annuals, and bulbs
Plant spring-flowering bulbs now.
Cut chrysanthemum stems and other
perennials to four to five inches from the
soil once they have begun to die back.
Continue to transplant perennials
throughout the fall and winter, as long as
they remain dormant.
Add three to four inches of good compost
or fine mulch to flower beds to keep soil
temperature stable and to prevent winter
plant injury from frost heaving. As
compost or fine mulches decompose, they
will enrich your garden soil.
Lawn care
Rake and remove heavy layers of leaves
from the lawn. Alternatively, you can mow
over a light layer of leaves, turning them
into a mulch that will replace important
nutrients in your lawn.
If you compost make sure you mix the
leaves with other materials. Grass clipping
for example. A mix of 2-3:1 (leaves:grass
clippings) is generally considered optimum
for decomposition in the compost pile.
Indoor plants
Give houseplants as much light as possible
during winter's lower-light days.
Continue to let up on fertilizing indoor
plants until spring.
If possible, provide houseplants with
increased humidity as levels. Indoor heat
can be too dry.
Begin to increase the time between
waterings but do not cut back on the
amount of water.
Force bulbs like narcissus, hyacinths and
amaryllis indoors for color early in the
new year. Start paperwhites in late
November for Christmas flowering.
October 2010
5
December 2010
A program of the
University of Tennessee
Extension
______________
CONTACT:
Sheldon Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co.
170 Church St
Dunlap, TN 37327
423-949-2611
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe Co.
PO Box 289
Pikeville, TN 37367
423-447-2451
IN THIS ISSUE
Dates to Remember
UT Garden’s Plant of
the Month
Garden tips
___________________
Dates to Remember
2011 class
Plans are underway for the 2011 Class. Applications will be due December 20, 2010.
Classes will start January 13, 2011. Classes will be 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM At the Bledsoe
County Extension Office.
SVMG Work day
January 17, 2011 9:00 AM (weather permitting)
Sequatchie County Public Library
We will be pruning shrubs so bring the right tools
SVMG Quarterly Meeting
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Dunlap, more details later.
The Great Backyard Bird Count
Feb. 18-21, 2011 Check out the web site for more details
http://www.birdsource.org/gbbc/
2011 (3rd Annual) Vegetable Workshop
Tentatively March 19, 2011 in Pikeville details to follow and subject to change
Project BudBurst
As plants begin to bud in the coming spring, help document the progress at
http://www.budburst.ucar.edu/index.php
Note The Great Backyard Bird Count and Project BudBurst are projects in which SVMG
members participate. Make plans now to be a part in 2011.
J. C. Rains
Sheldon D. Barker
Extension Agent
Sequatchie County
J. C. Rains
Extension Agent
Bledsoe County
Programs in agriculture and natural resources, 4-H youth development, family and consumer sciences, and resource development. The University
of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture, Tennessee State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and county governments cooperating. UT Extension
provides equal opportunities in programs and employment.
December 2010 Plant of the Month
Eastern Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana
Submitted by Andy Pulte
Those who spend their time outdoors or
gardening understand that a plant can grow on
you over time. Sometimes a plant you’ve
overlooked can start to gain your interest. Often
this is a plant that you look at for a second time as
a possible addition to your landscape or garden.
Other times natural curiosity leads you to learn
more about a particular species. Juniperus
virginiana or Eastern red cedar is one such plant.
It is so very common that many of us have never
taken the time to learn about some of the things
that make it special.
Eastern red cedar is native to 37 U.S. states as
far west and north as North Dakota, south to the
Great Plains of Texas and eastward. Actually,
under cultivation, this plant will grow in pockets
of all 50 states. When I drive the roads of many
of these states I often look out my window and
marvel at the infinite numbers of shapes and
forms of Eastern red cedar that are found along
the roadside. I remember a friend of mine
remarking that they were a lot like people, fat
ones, skinny ones, tall ones and even some short
ones. This polymorphism contributes to Eastern
red cedar not being a traditionally good nursery
plant. Often pyramidal in youth, most plants
open up to a broader, unpredictable crown with
age.
Eastern red cedar was a plant that I distinctly
remember from a very early age growing up in
Nebraska. Miles and miles of cornfields were
broken up by scattered farmhouses surrounded
by windbreaks of Juniperus virginiana, many of
which were planted in the hard times of the
1930’s. As the only native coniferous tree
available in many areas, the red cedar was also an
early traditional Christmas tree species. I
remember as a child walking through thickets of
Eastern Red Cedar and not particularly liking the
smell or the feel of this plant that seemed to be
everywhere. I have seen pastures left ungrazed
or unburned consumed by this early land invader.
In fact, Eastern red cedar has been shown to be at
least slightly allopathic in nature, reducing or
slowing the growth of some prairie plants.
Eastern red cedar may exhibit a variety of forms from
tall and narrow to short and rounded.
Photo by A. Pulte.
Bottom line: Eastern red cedar was made to
survive. It can be grown from USDA Hardiness
Zones 2 through 9, is long lived, grows in some of
the windiest conditions imaginable, has minimal
pest problems, will grow in almost any soil, and
can even withstand salt spray when grown near a
beach.
Now, this isn’t a perfect plant. Deer will
browse red cedars as high as they can reach,
bagworms sometimes make their home in them,
and it is the alternative host for cedar-apple rust
disease, which can be devastating to susceptible
apple cultivars and plants such as hawthorns.
However, rust resistant cultivars of apples and
hawthorns are available. When faced with large
wild populations of Eastern red cedar these are
the best choice. Additionally, pollen can be of
concern for sensitive allergy sufferers.
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Continued on next page
For many years, few cultivars of this plant
were very commercially available. Several of the
early selections were plants that stayed rather
short or had grayish foliage. Many people know
the cultivar ‘Grey Owl’ which has been around
since the thirties. If you do a little plant hunting
in the wild, it is fairly easy to find both columnar
and more robustly round plants growing in
populations within a few feet of each other.
But form is not the only thing to consider with
Eastern red cedar. Winter brings a change to this
plant. Depending on the individual plant, cool
temperatures can help change the foliage color to
a deep purple or even copper in color. This
change can be looked at as either adding
character or as a disadvantage. Many
nurserymen have made selections of this plant
based on form combined with a lack of this color
shift, looking for a plant that remains consistently
deep green throughout the winter.
In the wild you will find Eastern red cedar
growing as tall as 100 feet; however, in cultivation
it would be rare to see a plant that high. Different
populations of trees will also have a variety of
looks. Northern populations often will be very
narrow, Southern populations tend to be slightly
more broadly tapered (although there are
exceptions). As you travel to the wind-swept
Great Plains, you see a shrubbier look with older
trees becoming outstanding specimens
resembling giant bonsais.
One of my favorite cultivars of this plant is
Juniperus virginiana 'Taylor'. ‘Taylor’ was found
as a sport (part of a plant that shows
morphological differences from the rest of the
plant) in Taylor, Nebraska, and was released by
the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum. It will reach
nearly 30’ high but will remain just over 3 feet in
width. This makes it a plant that could be great
for screens or as a columnar accent in a garden.
Other cultivars available include some that are
powder blue in color or have variegation in their
foliage. 'Elegantissima', which is slightly
pendulous, has golden-tipped branches and a
bronzy fall color.
Historically, Eastern red cedar has a variety of
commercial uses. The first one that often comes
to mind is the use of the wood to line closets and
make furniture. However, it’s important not to
overlook the role it played in the development of
many parts of this country as one of the most
durable and rot-resistant fence posts available to
early settlers. Additionally, many of the greatest
minds in this country have been educated while
using pencils made from the heartwood of an
Eastern red cedar.
So this year as you drive to a relative’s house
or to a holiday party, take a second as you gaze
out your window to consider the value of the
common Eastern red cedar. Even though you
may not soon add this tree to your garden, it is
truly worth knowing.
Want to know more about the eastern red cedar visit Virginia Tech’s Dendrology page at
http://www.cnr.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=97
December 2010
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“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of
perspiration.” Lou Erickson
January Gardening Tips
Feeling the post-holiday blues? Bundle up and go outside to enjoy the swishing sounds of many
ornamental grasses and brightly colored berries on hollies and crabapples. If you need something more
productive to do, the University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture recommends these gardening tasks to
brighten your winter or make your spring chores less hectic.
Indoors
In the Garden and Yard
Convert your holiday poinsettia into a
houseplant. Remove foil wraps and set it in a
saucer or other water-capturing basin. Place
plant in a bright sunny location and provide
ample moisture. When the bracts' color start
to fade and stems become leggy, cut them
back in half. In the spring, move your plant
outdoors.
Plant indoor bulbs, such as amaryllis and
paperwhites, to add a splash of color and
fragrance indoors. Plant bulbs in potting soil,
place pot in a bright sunny location, and
lightly water until new growth appears. At
the sight of new growth, cut back on
saturating the soil but make sure the plant is
receiving ample moisture. Bulbs should
bloom in about six weeks.
With the reduced amount of bright daylight,
place houseplants in sunnier locations
throughout your home and increase the time
between waterings. Do not reduce the
amount of water.
Make sure birdfeeders are full so your finefeathered friends will have a sufficient food
supply throughout the winter.
Plant bulbs if you have not already done so.
Naturalize them in your lawn and under trees
or scatter them throughout the perennial
border. Spring bulbs should go through a
chilling process of at least twelve weeks to
provide the best results.
Visit your local garden center to ask about
plant selections and order your seeds and
plants.
Start gathering seed-starting materials.
Review notes, sketches, and photos of your
garden from last growing season. Future
success is often based on advance planning.
Avoid use of salt-based products to melt
snow or de-ice walkways and driveways. Salt
is toxic to many plants. Use sand, sawdust, or
cat litter.
When temperatures are below freezing,
avoid unnecessary contact with outside plant
material. Frozen and iced plants are brittle,
and limbs can break easily. If limbs are
broken, prune them promptly to avoid
tearing the bark and introducing disease and
pests.
Check perennials for frost heaving (uplifting
from the soil surface). Apply additional mulch
if needed.
February is the month for pruning. Make
sure pruning tools are sharpened and cleaned
in preparation for next month.
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