Discover Cantabria with Brittany Ferries Visit cantabriabycar.com Enchanting and spectacular from coast to country Brittany Ferries sails to a beautiful city in a wonderful region of Spain. Read on to find out more and to make the most of both Santander and Cantabria. Stay longer in Cantabria Spend a little time in Cantabria and you’ll probably like it so much you’ll want to stay longer. Not only does this little region boast 130 miles of gorgeous Atlantic coastline, it has deep verdant valleys with villages untouched by time and one of Europe’s most spectacular mountain ranges. There are handsome seaside resorts, fine restaurants and a whole host of rewarding outdoor activities suitable for all ages. And because of its compact size and excellent roads, the region is day-trip heaven; nothing is very far away and there is so much to see and do. So make sure you take time to tour slowly, admire the views, wander round the villages, relax on the beaches or explore on foot. Santander San Vincente de la Barquera Santo Toribio PICOS DE EUROPA NATIONAL PARK LEÍB VA ANA LLE Y Santillana de Mar Oyambre Cabezón de la Sal Cueva El Soplao Cabárceno Puente Viesgo Los Corrales de Buelna Saja-Besaya Natural Park Santo Liébana Toribio Valley de Liébana Puerto de San Glorio Torrelavega Selaya 4 The glamorous city of Santander 6 Activities galore - Cantabrian style 8 Our top ten Cantabrian attractions 10 Cantabria by car or motorcycle Laredo Limpias Castro Urdiales Arredondo Ramales de la Victoria Ason Waterfall Argueso Alto Campoo Ebro Reservoir Reinosa 0 10 miles Picos de Europa National Park This is the highlight for many, a majestic cluster of mountains that dominates the western half of The coast is a panorama of beautiful beaches and picturesque the region. Most visitors get there on a road that winds through a coves - there are at least 60 in Cantabria and many are blissfully spectacular canyon, then along to free of development. Add rugged gigantic rock wall at Fuente Dé, where a cable car will glide you up green headlands for invigorating walks, sweeping estuaries, pretty to the top of the cliff in just a few breath-taking minutes. On a clear fishing ports to wander around day the views from the top are and cafes to refuel in. This is a seaside experience that’s difficult simply awesome. to better. Outdoor Pursuits With such a superb natural setting, it’s no surprise that there are lots of ways to get active; top In the hinterland, forested hills rise pursuits are hiking, mountainto green pastures and then higher biking, horse-riding, kayaking, to mighty limestone mountains; white water rafting, surfing and the landscape is laced with rivers sailing. Indeed Santander will that flow to the coast with the host the 2014 Sailing World lowlands shaped by centuries of Championships. And as for golf… small scale agriculture. well, this is the home of the late great Seve Ballesteros and a string of emerald courses. 2 Picos de Europa National Park Potes Fuente Dé Comillas Noja Santoña Campoo Valley Breathtaking coast line Spectacular mountains and valleys Unquera Santillana del Mar Contents Historical and cultural diversions To compliment natural splendour, there are cultural gems a- plenty. Santillana del Mar, near the coast and Santander, is a perfectlypreserved pedestrian-friendly medieval village. A few minutes’ drive away is something very much older: the Altamira Cave. It’s here that some of the world’s best examples of ancient rock paintings were discovered – the depictions of animals are 14,000 years old. A little further west at Comillas, you’ll find some striking architecture including Gaudi’s Caprichio nestling in the hills overlooking the resort. Chic city where beaches abound Where to stay Full of fresh-air fun it may be, but Cantabria is not short of comfort and style, with an outstanding range of accommodation - from chalet camping to self-catering country cottages; from family hotels to prestigious Paradors or Santander’s superb Hotel Real. All reasonably priced and easily bookable through Brittany Ferries’ website. For independent travellers, check out the Club de Calidad - a selection of the best accommodation and restaurants offering consistently high standards. If you’re a first-time visitor to Cantabria, you’re sure to want to return. Even if it’s your tenth trip, you’ll find more to explore. It’s the little region with big surprises. Santander is a fine and friendly city that will quickly convince you why it was a favourite for royal visitors. Boasting a choice of great beaches, a lively art nouveau market, as well as elegant waterfront promenades and exroyal palaces, it’s a great place to stroll around before enjoying one or more of its many restaurants and tapas bars. Far left: Santa Maria de Lebeña, near Potes. Top left: The local market in Noja. Top right: Spectacular scenery near Arenas de Cabrales. Far right: Los Locos beach at Suances. Right: Great golf courses await you in Cantabria. Left: The heady heights of the Picos de Europa. 3 Visit cantabriabycar.com Where every road is a scenic route Exploring by car or motorcycle is a joy in Cantabria Whether you choose to tour the magnificent coast of Cantabria or head for the hills, there is a network of well-made roads that will take you on a rewarding journey. The shore has golden beaches and dunes, picturesque towns and lofty headlands that drop straight into the sea. Inland, there are lanes through lush valleys, spectacular mountains, bubbling rivers and peaceful villages. Here are some suggestions for driving routes, but all you really need is a map and a sense of curiosity. The East Coast A good starting point is Castro Urdiales, swiftly reached by the A8 dual carriageway from Santander. This route takes you back west to the city along the small roads along the glorious shore. Castro Urdiales is well worth an hour to wander around the pretty harbour with its fishing boats and fine old buildings. Take the N634 and you’ll come to Playa de Oriñón, a wide rectangle of bright sand blocked in by steep hills, where you could take your first swim of the day. Nearby there’s a narrow road to Sonabia (smaller vehicles only), a fabulous sheltered cove in a huge bowl, one of the finest bays in Spain. The next main beach is a complete contrast – the grand curve of Playa de Salvé at Laredo, ideal for family paddles or simple walking along the three-mile waterline with the locals. If you go to the end of this peninsula, you’ll see the fishing town of Santoña across the estuary of the Asón river. On the way round to the town, birdwatchers should stop at one of the viewing platforms to look for the dozens of species. Santoña is an attractive anchovy and tuna port with a shipshaped visitor centre and grassy promenade – it’s a good place for a fish lunch. Heading west along the CA141, there’s a series of long and resplendent beaches stretching 4 Comillas comes next, where you should check out the modernist architecture, miniature port and fish restaurants, then move on to Oyambre, one of the longest beaches on this stretch and part of a nature reserve – a good place for a short hike. Just past the headland there’s Playa de Meron, with acres of fine-grain sand, the last beach before crossing the old bridge across the estuary to San Vicente de la Barquera, behind which loom the Picos de Europa. The town is exceptionally attractive, especially viewed from the bridge over a creek, above which are the ancient church and castle. all the way to the resort of Noja. Berria and Tregandin come first, both with great swathes of sand, the latter sprinkled with dark, contorted rocks. It’s easy to find your own quiet spot even in summer. Over the other side of Noja are the twin beaches of Ris and Joyel, where a small island creates rock pools at certain states of tide. Playa de Ajó, an alluring deep bay with shallow water, is worth the detour before you come to Langre, a real classic of a beach backed by an arc of cliffs. Finally, across from Santander, is Somo, where the extensive sands culminate in a spit that stretches right across the bay. The West Coast Going in the opposite direction from Santander, you can take the CA-131 minor road to find more great beaches and some especially enchanting towns. The village of Liencres is the gateway to several delightful, sheltered coves as well as sea stacks, but make sure you visit the main Playa del Liencres along here, with its dunes and lovely curling estuary. A stop at the historic glory of Santillana del Mar is required before heading for Cóbreces and the nearby Playa de Luaña, another of those alluring, sandfilled deep bays. The countryside Whichever road you take south from the coast, you’ll end up in outstanding scenery, with forests of beech and oak, stone hamlets and glittering streams. The following should be on your shortlist. Find the village of Arredondo on the map – south-east of Santander then take the small road south along the gorge of the Asón river. At its source is a tall waterfall, especially impressive in spring. The top of the canyon opens out into the secret upper valley of Soba, from where there’s an alternative route back down, to Ramales de la Victoria. For a real nature tour, head down from Cabezón de la Sal into the Saja-Besaya Natural Park, where you’ll find rolling forests and green pastures with soft-eyed cows. A left turn dead-ends at the village of Bárcena Mayor, a superb, medieval artistic-historic community. A tour to the Picos de Europa is almost obligatory. Take the N621 from Unquera and follow the Deva river through the incredible narrow gorge, the Desfiladero de la Hermida, from which a couple of spindly roads head into the mountains, or turn right in Potes to get to the cable car at Fuente Dé. Far left: Taking your car gives you the ability to see so much more. Top left: Castro Urdiales. Top: Noja’s pretty coastline. Middle left: Gaudí’s Capricho in Comillas. Left: The cable car at the Picos de Europa National Park. 5 Visit cantabriabycar.com Glamorous city that was a royal favourite 6 Santander Before you even drive or step off the Brittany Ferries ship in Santander, you’ll have realised that this is a city well worth exploring. As you sail into port, you’ll have passed the striking Magdalena Palace on its headland, spied the huge golden sweep of Somo’s sands across the bay and noticed that the city itself has several fine beaches. Santander is a friendly, easygoing city that is easy to get around on foot, by the efficient local buses or, if you wish to cross the bay, by regular ferries. It’s a real multi-purpose place, with pleasant promenades for beachside strolls, fascinating museums, some notable architecture and a healthy cluster of excellent restaurants, tapas bars and stylish shops. There’s also a vibrant arts and culture scene that expresses itself in a series of top-class festivals. Few other places allow the chance to swim in clear waters, go to a restaurant for a fish lunch while watching the boats in the bay, then investigate an exhibition, all within a short stroll. No wonder the Spanish royal family were regular visitors over many years, the Magdalena Palace – completed 100 years ago this year – being built to provide a summer residence away from the heat of Madrid. King Alfonso XIII and his family first arrived in 1913 and used the palace through until the Thirties. It has since been used as a conference centre and international university; the gardens and small zoo are well worth a look. The royals’ presence was preceded by well-heeled visitors from the middle of the 19th century and the legacy is a glamorous city where life still revolves around the sea. On any day when the sun is out, locals will descend upon the beaches at some stage; each July, the tradition of “taking to the waters” is celebrated by people donning old woollen bathing suits. Sardinero – made up of two strands separated by formal gardens – is the most prominent beach, close to the palace overlooked by the handsome, restored Gran Casino, though you may want to wander along Los Bikinis beach, where the skimpy beachwear became popular with daring students in the Fifties. The city’s cathedral was severely damaged by fire in 1941, though it dates back 700 years and Roman ruins can still be seen as part of the crypt. You can reach the cathedral from the ship dock through the charming Pereda Gardens. Don’t miss the art nouveau Mercado de la Esperanza. The displays of fish – especially shellfish – fruit, vegetables and local delicacies are most inviting and it makes a good last stop before boarding the cruise-ferry home to buy cheeses, olive oil and cured meats. Santander has a number of museums and galleries. Being a coastal region, Cantabria would not be complete without an exhibition dedicated to the sea and the Maritime Museum contains sections for marine biology (there’s an aquarium) and fishing, including traditional boats. The city also has the Regional Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology, tracing the region’s past back to the Paleolithic age, and a Fine Arts gallery featuring works from Goya and Miro. Your best bet for an evening out is the city centre, with streets being filled with boutiques and pavements cafes, especially in the Paseo de Pereda. Nearby, the lively but genial Plaza de Cañadío is the place to head for drinks and tapas. If you are lingering a little longer, Indulge your taste buds Cantabria has 6 Michelin-starred restaurants: 1 2 Annua at San Vicente www.annuagastro.com Los Avellanos in Torrelavega www.losavellanos.com 3 Cenador de Amós at Villaverde de Pontones www.cenadordeamos.com you may wish to hop on a boat across to the beachside resort of Somo, where you could walk along the long sand spit for great views over the city, take a dip – or even a surfing lesson – and then enjoy a late, lazy lunch. A perfect day out, making Santander an ideal break for two or three days. Gastronomy 4 5 6 Solana at Ampuero www.restaurantesolana.com El Nuevo Molino at Pielagos www.elnuevomolino.es El Serbal in Santander www.elserbal.com As you might expect, seafood plays a big role in Cantabrian cuisine, although there are also excellent bean-and-pork mountain stews, rich lamb and succulent beef. Local clams, squid, crabs and hake feature on many menus, sometimes simply fried in light batter but also as part of imaginative creations. As the panel above shows, Cantabria boasts six restaurants with Michelin stars and even the high-class establishments put the emphasis on food rather than ceremony. For cheaper eats there are lots of family-run restaurants. One of the most fun ways of eating, especially in Santander, is to sample a selection of the tapas bars. festival is ArteSantander, which concentrates on the visual arts. Santander also holds a prestigious piano competition in the summer, along with world-class lectures and music and dance performances organised by the Menéndez Pelayo International University. Festivals The Spanish love a festival and Cantabria is no exception. Possibly of most interest to holidaymakers is Semana Grande (Big Week) in July, which features street parties, bands and parades. The biggest cultural event, more than 60 years in existence, is held in August, the International Festival, with a host of classical music, dance, opera and theatre. Shortly before this Far left: Magdalena Palace is well worth a visit. Top: Spectacular seafood is always on most menus. Above: Fiesta time in the city. Left: Gaze and wonder at the beautiful beaches of Santander. 7 Visit cantabriabycar.com Fresh-air fun for action addicts Cantabria is so beautiful, you’ll want to engage with its seascapes and landscapes. Fortunately, the region has lots of ways in which visitors of all ages can burn off the calories from all that delicious food – or you can just sit back and watch the action. Golf Just across the bay from Santander is Pedreña, home of the late superstar Severiano Ballesteros. The fabulous course here was where the master crafted his skills – it’s a must-play for the serious golfer, so why not put your clubs in the boot before you set off for the ferry? Cantabria has another eight courses, including the highly regarded, Ballesteros-designed Santa Marina. Others have spectacular coastal locations or are set against a mountainous backdrop. The Cantabrian government operates two courses that are especially welcoming to visitors – Abra del Pas, encircled by a serene river, and Nestares, down in the Campoo valley. Rafting & Kayaking Santander recently won the bid to host the prestigious 2014 ISAF Sailing World Championships. Hardly surprising as the bay of the city is perfect for this sport. Dinghy and yacht races often provide a pleasing distraction for those on the local beaches and the championships will prove a great spectator event. The Ebro River that exits the reservoir creates an exciting environment for fast-moving adventures. Outdoor sports companies can take you down some of the rapids in a raft, plus there are calmer stretches for kayakers. On the Deva river, there is good canoeing and kayaking, especially towards the coast where conditions are fine for novices. Surfing Rowing Although there are many sheltered bays along Cantabria’s coast, the more open sections attract surfers from all over the world, with big blue Atlantic waves providing excellent conditions. Serviced beaches such as Somo and Oyambre are good for beginners – there are surf schools here offering taster and longer courses – but if you’re experienced, you can bring your own board over on your car roofrack. Liencres, Laredo and Berria are other first-class locations. The historic trainera regattas are brilliant for spectators. These large rowing boats, once used to bring in the day’s catch of anchovies and sardines from sea to market, are now used for a sport that has plenty of passionate fans. Santoña, Laredo and Castro Urdiales all host races. Sailing Windsurfing & Kitesurfing 8 rock-free beaches are suitable and again there instructors who will show you the ropes or rent out gear. The waters of Santander bay are often flat enough for windsurfers, or why not head south to the Ebro reservoir for freshwater fun? The latter is especially popular in the region, with all types of waves popping up for boarders to “get some air”. Most of the larger, Horseriding Several stables dotted around Cantabria offer guided horseriding through the most gorgeous countryside – valleys, riversides and even along the beach – and if you’re proficient, you should be able to arrange hire of a horse and tack. The Liébana and Campoo valleys are good places to start, with well-trod bridleways. If you have keen kids, check out the occasional summer schools. Biking Skiing Along the coast and in some of the wider valleys, there are scenic lanes and farm tracks that are excellent for two-wheeled travel without being too taxing. A decent map and picnic is all you need for an exhilarating day out. For more adrenalin, though, you’ll want to check out the mountain bike trails in the foothills of the Picos de Europa, although there are dozens of slightly easier trails right across the central belt of the region. Don’t forget you can bring bikes over on car racks on the ferry. Alto Campoo is Cantabria’s only ski resort and it’s a little gem that will provide a real talking point back home. In the southwest of the region, it has reliable snow and all the services you could need, such as varied runs, five chairlifts, eight drags, ski schools, a children’s snowpark and restaurants. The maximum altitude is 2,125m and there are stupendous views from the slopes. Good quality accommodation in hotels, inns and apartments is close by but wherever you are staying in the region the resort will be a comfortable drive away, especially with improvements to the main road to Reinosa, the closest town. Hiking Specialist walking companies have been operating in the Picos de Europa and surrounding hills for years and Cantabria does indeed have some of the finest hiking in Europe, especially with the Fuente Dé cable car taking the biggest sting out of mountain trails. The great thing about having your own car with you is the choice of shorter or longer well-marked routes that become easy to access. To avoid the most strenuous terrain, the Liébana valley is outstanding for walking. Pop into any of the tourist offices in Cantabria for advice on guide companies, walking routes and on other activities such as rock climbing and canyoning. Far left: Jump on a bike to explore the region more. Top left: Fun in the surf. Top middle: Golf Santa Marina. Top right: Hiking in Santander’s Reserva Nacional del Saja. Middle right: Perfect waves for surfing. Right: Canoeing near Potes. 9 Visit cantabriabycar.com Ten tempting attractions for grand days out Cantabria is crammed with outstanding historical and natural wonders. Some deserve a whole day or more, others can be combined for a contrasting experience. Nothing is far away in this compact yet beautiful region. 1Picos de Europa Spain’s first national park is one of the most spectacular mountain wildernesses in Europe and on clear days forms a dramatic backdrop to the western coastline. Centuries ago, sailors returning from the New World would know they were almost home when they spied the “Peaks of Europe” from afar. The Fuente Dé cable car gives fast, direct access to an alpine wonderland of soaring limestone mountains and hidden valleys. Even if you don’t stray far from the top station, El Cable, at about 6,600ft, the views are astonishing, especially back down into the valley. If you wish to explore further, there are marvellous marked paths and the route back down is fabulous. Most visitors arrive through the sensational Desfiladero de la Hermida gorge and just before you get to Potes, the town that serves as a “gateway” to the park, there’s an excellent visitor centre that will tell you all about the wildlife – griffon vultures, chamois, even brown bears – and the geology and give advice on walking and cycling routes. 2 The Liébana Valley Immediately to the east of the Picos de Europa is the lovely Liébana valley – actually four valleys converging on Potes – which often basks in warm sunshine even if the mountains are looking broody. It’s a verdant environment with oak and beech forests, green pastures and wild rivers, especially the fast-running Deva, and is perfect for walking and cycling if the real alpine stuff above is too strength-sapping. The charming little town of Potes makes a great base for a day or two, with a square overlooking the river and several good restaurants and bars. For motorists, there are small spur roads in the valley that climb to untouched hamlets with fine views; try to visit the ancient Santa Maria de Lebena church in a breathtaking setting. 10 6Altamira Cave 3Santo Toribio With the Liébana valley and not far from Potes is a monastery that holds great importance in the Christian world. Santo Toribio, on a hillside, holds what many believe to be the largest part of the True Cross, upon which Christ was crucified. The story is that the young Toribio brought back the relic from the Holy Land in the fifth century and since medieval times it has attracted pilgrims from far and wide. 4Puerto de San Glorio A road up one arm of the Liébana valley heads south then climbs west through superlative scenery to the San Glorio pass. From up here at 5,300ft, especially from the small car park up a side road, there are remarkable views of the Picos de Europa and the valley below. Try to stop at the hairpin layby shortly before reaching the pass, where there’s a bronze statue of an ibex and panoramas of strange-shaped peaks to the south-east. 5Santillana del Mar A few hours in Santillana, one of the most beautiful old villages in Spain, is a must. Along the cobbled, pedestrianised streets and squares are immaculately preserved medieval buildings – houses, palaces and churches. The whole place is like a living museum and has been declared a National Monument; even the gift shops are a joy. A highlight is the Romanesque Collegiate Church, dating back to the 12th century, and make sure you go inside the admire the exquisite interior. Cantabria was a popular place even tens of thousands of years ago. The evidence? In 1879, an archaeologist discovered some caves south-west of Santander that featured some remarkable examples of rock art. Bison, horses and other beasts adorn the wall of Altamira, the paintings having been dated to about 14,000 years. So valuable are these paintings in terms of world history that the caves have had to be closed to the public; however, an exceptionally detailed replica has been created close by. The region is riddled with caves and although Altamira is the “Sistine Chapel” of cave art, there are several underground chambers where you can admire prehistoric depictions of animals and handprints. El Castillo and Las Monedas near Puente Viesgo are a good bet, while the El Soplao Comillas complex south of San Vicente de la Barquera has impressive white What seems at first sight to be rock formations. an agreeable seaside town with a little harbour is also the site Cabárceno of several examples of splendid Natural Park modernist architecture. Most notable is Gaudí’s El Capricho A must for families, Cabárceno is one of Europe’s best wildlife parks, (“the whim”), built in 1883 with a profusion of colourful tiles and a not only because of the wide startling Mudejar-style tower. range of animals in semi-wild habitats but because it’s all set in Along the road is the neo-Gothic unusual karstic scenery on the site Palacio de Sobrellano (open for of an old mine. public viewing), a highly ornate palace from the same era with About 20 minutes from Gaudí-designed furniture. Santander, the park has giraffes, apes, tigers, bears, lions, rhinos Dominating the town is the and many more, several of which immense Pontifical University are successfully breeding. A on a hill, a Gothic-Mudéjar number of routes can be followed construction again dating from that also take you past a wealth of the late 19th century. exotic flora. Collados de Asón The animals come from all over the world but there are also local waterfall fauna including wolves, ibex and In a landscape laced with rivers wild boar, while the landscape is and streams, it’s surprising that sometimes quite other-worldy. Cantabria does not have more tall waterfalls. However, the source of the Asón river makes up for this, tumbling nearly 200ft over a cliff into a gorge in the south-east of the region near Arredondo. Best times to visit are spring and early summer for water flow, though even if it’s down to a trickle the valley is quite gorgeous, leading up to outstanding viewpoints and the secret Soba valley with its diminutive farms, an area that’s barely changed for decades. 8 7 9 10 Marismas de Santoña Many miles after the Asón spouts from the mountains, it enters the sea between Santoña and Laredo, forming a wild area of estuary, marsh and sand dune. In a region already replete with birdwatching opportunities, the Marismas de Santoña natural park is king, with well over 100 species regularly spotted and up to 20,000 birds at any one time. Depending on the time of year, ornithologists can look for spoonbills, avocets, curlews, oystercatchers and many more from the boardwalks and parking pullouts; the visitor centre in Santoña is a good place to get your bearings and pick up information. Clockwise from top left: Viewpoint overlooking San Sebastian; Fuente Dé; waterfall in the Picos; Medieval Santillana del Mar; Comillas; Marismas de Santoña; brown bears at Cabárceno Nature Park; the caves at Soplao. 11 Spain without the plane If you’re reading this en-route to Northern Spain, well done! You’ve realised that taking your own familiar car will help you make the most of your time away. You’ve packed as much luggage as you like and can look forward to exploring at your own pace. If you haven’t yet tried our Spanish service, don’t be put off by the length of the journey. As soon as you board one of the two first-class ships that cruise to Santander, there’s plenty for you to explore. With at least one night at sea, you can enjoy comfortable cabins, great food, excellent leisure facilities and live entertainment, whatever your age. You may even be thrilled by the sight of whales and dolphins in the ocean. Either way we hope you’ll enjoy the on board experience. Far from being simply a method of transport, the Brittany Ferries service aims to be very much part of your holiday. Brittany Ferries sails to Cantabria three times each week - from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander. With journey times of about 20-24 hours, there’s plenty of time to relax, soak up the sea air and enjoy the cruise. Our flag ship Pont-Aven has now been joined by the newest addition to the fleet, the boutique-style Cap Finistère. With pools, spa treatment rooms and high levels of service, both ships are far more like cruise liners than what you may expect of typical ferries. All sailings are bookable online or through our friendly call centre. The sailing times are friendly, too, with no exhausting early-morning starts. Visit brittanyferries.com or call 0871 244 0448 Calls costs 10p per minute plus network extras.
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