Volume 59, Issue 6
June 9, 2015
London Aquaria Society
www.londonaquariasociety.com
Come & join us
for our pot luck
dinner. See you
all again in
September.
Red Cherry Shrimp Care
http://www.theshrimpfarm.com/articles/caring-for-red-cherry-shrimp.php
Red Cherry Shrimp Care
Keeping Red Cherry Shrimp is fairly easy for a dedicated
aquarium hobbyist. Red Cherry Shrimp can be kept as long as
the aquarium they are in has stable parameters, avoids harmful
elements, feed them high quality food, and only contains acceptable tank mates.
Stable water parameters are very important when keeping Red Cherry Shrimp. They have a wide range of acceptable
parameters such as a pH range of 6.0-7.6 and an acceptable
temperature range of 65-80°F. It is far more important that the
pH, temperature, and water hardness stay stable than to pinpoint a specific number. As long as they parameters are stable
with in the acceptable range Cherry Red Shrimp will flourish in the aquarium.
A good filtration system and frequent water changes help aid in keeping water parameters stable. Due to the small size of Red Cherry Shrimp, a sponge filter, or power filter with a sponge prefilter is recommended. Water changes of 20% a month is all that is necessary to keep Red Cherry
Shrimp healthy....as long as you do not over feed the tank.
There are a few elements that are commonly found in an aquarium that are very harmful to
Red Cherry Shrimp. Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate are all very harmful. A cycled and wellmaintained filtration system will eliminate Ammonia and Nitrate. Nitrate is the by product of the filter eliminating Ammonia and Nitrite and is removed by water changes or by growing plants.
Aquatic plants use Nitrate as a source of nitrogen and help reduce this element in the water
column. While aquatic plants are good for helping eliminate Nitrate, other fertilizers used to maintain
plants can kill Cherry Red Shrimp. Copper is found in many aquatic plant fertilizers contain trace
amounts of copper, so it not recommended to dose fertilizers in tanks that contain Cherry Red
Shrimp.
cont’d on page 3
President
Ron Bishop….…..…........519-457-7907
[email protected]
Vice-President
Nancy Egelton……….….519-666-2778
[email protected]
Treasurer/C.A.R.E.S. Rep.
Annette Bishop.....….......519-457-7907
[email protected]
Members at Large
Derek Tucker………..…....519-639-1183
[email protected]
Jennifer McNaughton…..519-719-8546
[email protected]
Nancy Egelton…………..519-666-2778
[email protected]
Secretary / Correspondence
Sharon MacDonald……..519-453-0094
sharonmacdonald62@gmailcom
Membership Chair
Nancy Drummond……..519-644-2753
[email protected]
Library
James & Margaret Kelly…519-681-0717
B.A.P./H.A.P.
Stephen Gregson……...…519-649-5019
[email protected]
Newsletter Editor
Lorraine Gregson….........519-649-5019
[email protected]
Monthly Jar Show
Sarah Lee…………..….....519-686-3473
[email protected]
Advertising
Bob Steele……....……....519-473-5648
[email protected]
Auction Chair
Jennifer McNaughton…..519-719-8546
[email protected]
C.A.O.A.C. Representative
Annette Bishop…............519-457-7907
[email protected]
Website
Eric Geissinger……...…….519-672-9168
[email protected]
London Aquaria Society
How much closer can you get? ;0)
London Aquaria Society
Table of Contents
President’s Message……..….…...…………….......………….…...….…..3
Aquarium Beautiful………………………………………….……………..4
Breeding Aquarium Fish……………….……………………….………….6
Bubblenests……………………………………………………….………...7
Aquarium Fish in Outside Ponds.……………………………….………..9
Hybrid Fish..………………………………………...…………….……….11
Monthly Jar Show Results…………………………...…………………..12
Fish Categories…………………………………………………………….13
Blind Cave Tetra…………………………………………………………..14
Cuckoo Catfish…...……………………………………………………….15
C.A.O.A.C. Club Reports………….………………………...…….……..17
Page 2
Presidents Message
Happy Father’s Day and Bus Trip.
The Bus Trip is planned and filling up fast, we have about twenty seats left and
then we are full. A big day is planned as we have listened to the many fans of this event
and booked visits to some of the stores we have been to already, not to mention the Chinese bakery that we all enjoyed. And yes, we have booked a great bus driver recommended by Don Brasier and he has
the bus fuelled up and ready to go. This year we will end the trip at Big Al’s in Hamilton.
There is no Jar Show this month as this will be our elections and awards night. We will have our annual Pot Luck supper as we close the year. (please keep in mind about the allergies) Thanks for a great year and hopefully next year will
be better. Plans are under way and some speakers have been tentatively booked. Confirmation are underway as we
speak.
First of all, I would like to say that Annette and I had a great time at the CAOAC Convention, put on by the CAOAC
Executive on the May 24th weekend, they had a great line up of guest speakers and lots of info was gathered by all those
in attendance. It was also a pleasure to meet the members of the IBC and I enjoyed their Betta Show. We spent some
time with a lot of the people in the hobby who made this hobby of ours so interesting. London did quite well in the
award department and these will be presented at the meeting. Bob Steel did quite well at the Fish Show with quite a
few of the big awards. Great job Bob. Congrats to all the winners of these awards.
Last month’s guest speaker was Earnest Biktimorov, doing a talk about collecting fishy things. I did not realize how
many fishy items Annette and I had collected and I hope everybody enjoyed his presentation.
As always, we will have the auction. Please bring out your extra fish and plants, who knows, you may pick up a bargain or two. Our ponds are up and the fish are in. Time to enjoy the summer,
Bishop
President
London Aquaria Society
Red Cherry Shrimp Care
Bright red female Red Cherry Shrimp
carrying eggs.
cont’d from front page
A peaceful community aquarium containing only small fish makes a
good home for Red Cherry Shrimp, but almost any fish that can fit a
Cherry Red Shrimp in its mouth will make a quick and tasty meal out of
them. Recommended tank mates include tetras, guppies, and smaller barbs.
If breeding Cherry Red Shrimp, a shrimp only tank is recommended.
Red Cherry Shrimp should never be put in a tank with other Neocaridina
species to avoid cross breeding. They can be kept with Caridina species such
as Amano Shrimp, Bee Shrimp and Crystal Red Shrimp. While Crystal Red
and Bee Shrimp require lower pHs and temperatures than are common in
the aquarium to breed, they will live just fine in most water parameters that
Red Cherry Shrimp will live Berried Adult Female. Notice the green eggs. Egg
color does not affect the color of the hatch.
and breed in.
London Aquaria Society
Page 3
AQUARIUM BEAUTIFUL
By: Dorothy Reimer, London Aquaria Society, June 2001
A beautifully planted aquarium is a fascinating eye catcher of beauty and movement. Plants present
underwater pictures to compliment the fish. Plants present underwater pictures to complement the fish.
They serve as hiding places for small fry or fish eggs and provide shelter for infusoria and important food
for fish in the early stages of growth.
When the aquarium is lit, plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen as they photosynthesize.
In the dark, respiration accounts for the absorption of oxygen and the release of carbon dioxide. So you
see, lighting for twelve to fourteen hours a day is important, as in nature, for good plant growth and
colouration. Plants clean the water of some of the waste materials from fish and fish food and convert this
mulm to fertilizer, which is absorbed through the leaves and the roots.
Water changes are also a very important factor in plant growth as well as fish growth and health. At
least a third of the water should be drained from the bottom of the tank weekly, for it is the bottom of the
tank where the remains of food, excrement and mulm build up the heaviest.
When refilling the tank, be sure the water temperature is within a couple of degrees of the water in
the aquarium. Great variations in temperature tend to discourage plant growth, to the point of disintegration. Should this occur, leave the roots planted and new growth will probably appear in a month or os.
You may or may not lose them. You may or may not lose them. Debris should be siphoned off to discourage bacterial growth.
With the use of fluorescent lighting over the aquarium, you can control the amount and kind of light
you required. I use two 4 foot tubes over three 55 gallon tanks. One Gro-Lux or wide spectrum tube, accompanied by a cool white bulb, suspended twelve inches to fourteen inches above the water seems best
suited to my needs. Plants requiring more light are planted in the middle aquarium, with those requiring
less being planted in either of the side tanks. Should you find an algae build up on your tanks, it is probably due to too much light. A piece of Java Moss anchored in the corner of the tank will also aid in algae
control. Java Moss tends to grow quickly, so cutting it back may be necessary.
Most plants enjoy a 72 - 78 degree water temperature, although
a few are more sited to cooler water environments. The majority of
aquarium plants do well in a pH of 6.8 to 7.8. In softer or harder water,
plants may not die but will not achieve proper growth.
Snails are rather important to plants. Mystery snails slither over
leaves and clean them of food particles and small algae and are an asset
to a planted tank. Ramshorn, pond and many other varieties of snails
devour leaves, especially the more delicate species of plants. Unwanted
snails can be easily removed by scrunching lettuce leaves and placing
them on top of the water. A few hours later, you will find the snails congregated on the leaves. They are easily removed and disposed of with
the net.
London Aquaria Society
Page 4
AQUARIUM BEAUTIFUL
cont’d from page 4
When bringing new plants into your aquarium, they should be rinsed well in lukewarm water.
To eliminate unwanted snails, the plants may be dipped in a solution of 1 teaspoon of alum to a gallon of water and left submerged for two minutes, then rinsed well in clear water before planting.
When purchasing plants, look for good white roots and a firm leaf structure as well. They should
smell clean, as an off coloured smelling plant rarely produces a good specimen. This is especially true
when purchasing bulbs where no growth is evident. Young plants adjust better to new conditions.
All plants go through a shock in transporting them and may lose a portion of their leaves. This is normal and these leaves should be removed as new growth appears. Plants purchased in a pot or container should be removed from the container before planting in the aquarium. This should be done
carefully, so as not to break any of the healthy roots. This is a good way to buy them as their roots
are protected. Unrooted or bunch plants must have the lead weights removed and about 1 inch of
the bottom stock cut off. The plants are now ready to plant, singly but they can be planted fairly
close together but notas a bunch.
Plants such as Echinodorus and Cryptocoryne have crowns. This is the part where leaves join
the roots. Care must be taken to leave this exposed when planting. Make a depression in the gravel,
like a well and plant fairly deep, cover the roots with gravel, then gently ease up the plant until the
crown is exposed. When planting bulbs, make sure the eye (where the leaves are grown from) are
top side up or they will not grow. Rhizomes have only the roots planted and the rhizome exposed.
This may have to be held down with a rock or other object.
Plants suitable for the aquarium (that is, submersed plants) are found mostly in the tropic
zones, although some are found in the temperature zone. Plants are now becoming more readily
available in the aquarium hobby and many new and hard to find species are starting to show up too.
Many aquarium societies have introduced horticultural programs and are encouraging hobbyists to
plant aquariums and enhance the aesthetics of their
tank and improve the quality of their fish.
We as hobbyists must also recognize the impact we can have on the environment. Careless
disposal of some plants and fish have caused problems in some areas. We should be aware of problems in our area and be willing to help others understand the consequences. In the past, waterways
have been clogged with plants not native to that
area by throwing them into a stream. We now
have a list of banned plants in Canada and I hope
that this is food for thought.
London Aquaria Society
Page 5
Breeding Aquarium Fish: Tips / Tanks and Fry
http://www.allaquariuminfo.com/2011/11/breeding-aquariumfish-tips-tanks-and.html
One of the very best signs of a healthy aquarium is fish
which are ready to breed. It is many aquarists' dream to successfully breed fish at home. Though fish reproduce in a number of
different ways there are several basic things you can do which
will universally improve their chances.
It may sound obvious, but before you can breed your fish you will need at least one male and
one female.
Determining the sex of individual fish is not always easy (the general rule is that female genitals
protrude a little out of the body, in a small round bump, whilst male ones don't). Sex markings vary
by species and with some species there is very little visible difference, so you'll have to make your decisions based on how the fish behave.
Observing behaviour is essential to successful breedin g anyway, because most fish don't want to
breed with just any other fish. They can be quite picky, and will be disinterested or even aggressive
towards unsuitable individuals. Signs that fish are compatible can include frequent close physical contact, non-aggressive chasing (without biting but with some nudging of the belly) and possessiveness
(driving away other fish who attempt social contact).
Some species for pairs whilst in others it is usual for a female who is ready to breed to attract
the attention of several males. In this case you should aim to breed from the whole group, as the fittest males will usually be the ones most successful at fertilization.
Spawning Tanks: It is possible to breed fish in your main aquarium, but the chances of doing so successfully are slim, as eggs and fry are liable to be eaten by other fish (or even by their parents).
For this reason most aquarists prefer to set up spawning tanks. These should be designed to
replicate as closely as possible the environment in which that species of fish would breed in the wild,
but there are several other things you can do to increase your chances of success.
Fish can be divided into two groups - those who care for their young and those who don't. A
spawning tank for the former group should be designed to provide a suitable living environment for
several months.
It should be seeded with gravel from the main aquarium (to help establish a suitable ecosystem) and should contain plants and places for the fish to hide. This is particularly important for nestbuilding fish, who will need materials from which to construct their nests before they are prepared to
breed.
London Aquaria Society
Page 6
Breeding Aquarium Fish: Tips / Tanks and Fry
cont’d from page 6
For fish who don't care for their young, the principal of the spawning tank is very different. The tank
should contain a layer of mesh or substrate about one inch from the bottom which the fish can't pass
through. This means that their eggs will fall down out of reach where they cannot be eaten.
The adults should then be removed from the tank before the eggs have time to hatch, and the fry
should be raised separately from the adults until they reach a size where they can look after themselves.
Some fish give birth to live young rather than laying eggs. Most livebearers are extremely fertile and
easy to breed and care for their young.
Some fish protect their young by carrying them in their mouths. Make sure you know what to expect from
the species you are attempting to breed, and don't be alarmed if they do this.
Raising Fry: As fish reproductive strategies vary, so do their fry. Some species lay vast numbers of eggs of
which only about five percent develop into healthy young. This is most common in those species which
don't care for their young, so these are the sort of fry you are most likely to have to look after directly.
You shouldn't expect to be able to save all of them, but you can increase their chances by carefully
monitoring the condition of their tank, noting that younger fish are more vulnerable to changes in temperature and water chemistry as well as to disease.
Don't worry if the fry look strange to begin with; few species resemble their parents when they're
born, especially as they'll be carrying yolk sacs attached to their bodies for their first two to four days of life.
Once the yolk sacs are gone, you'll need to provide your fry with a suitable food. Most fry are unable to eat normal adult fish foods, but there are a range of fry foods available which consist of small nutritious particles which you can disperse in the water. Make sure to provide food frequently. Some individuals
will grow faster than others, so you may need to segregate them to prevent them from eating each other.
However you go about it, breeding fish can be extremely rewarding. It's a challenge well worth your attention.
Bubble Nests
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bubble_nest
"Aphrophil" redirects here. It is not to be confused
with Aphrophila.
Bubble nests, also called foam nests, are created by some
fish and frog species as floating masses of bubbles blown
with an oral secretion, saliva bubbles, and occasionally
aquatic plants, or an area for egg deposit attached at the
bottom.
London Aquaria Society
Page 7
Bubble Nests
cont’d from page 7
Fish that build and guard bubble nests are known as aphrophils.[1] Aphrophils include gouramis (including
Betta species) and the synbranchid eel Monopterus alba in Asia, Ctenopoma (Anabantidae), Polycentropsis
(Nandidae), and Hepsetus odoe (the only member of Hepsetidae) in Africa, and callichthyines and the electric eel in South America.[1] Most, if not all, fish that construct floating bubble nests live in tropical, oxygendepleted standing waters.[1] Also, some sunfish and cichlids create bubblenests. Anabantidae are the most
commonly recognized family of bubblenest makers. The nests are constructed as a place for fertilized eggs
to be deposited while incubating and guarded by the male until the fry hatch.
Construction: Bubble nests are built even when not in
presence of female or fry (though often a female swimming past will trigger the frantic construction of the nest).
Males will build bubble nests of various sizes and thick-
Betta splendens fry in a bubble nest
nesses, depending on the male's territory and personality.
Some males build constantly, some occasionally, some
when introduced to a female and some do not even begin
until after spawning. Some nests will be large, some small,
some thick.[citation needed]
Various stimuli have been shown to onset the construction of Bubble Nests, such as rapid changes in
temperature, barometric changes, fluctuations in rainfall, various fish tank materials, and presence of other
males or females.[citation needed]
The nests are built by the male (sometimes females)
and their size, position and shape depends on the species.
They are often built near an object that breaks the surface
of the water, which forms a base for the nest.
Bubble nests created by male Siamese fighting fish
(Betta splendens) are made from air bubbles coated with
saliva to increase durability. The creation of the bubbles is
audible and often frantic.
Bubble nests and breeding[ edit]
All species of bubble nesters continue parental care after construction of the floating bubble nest and
spawning.[1] After spawning, the eggs float up into the bubble nest, or are carried there, held in the mouth
by the male.
The male lodges them in the nest to protect them, and then protects the brood by chasing away the
female and any other intruders, concentrating on the eggs in the nest, retrieving any eggs or fry that fall
from the nest and keeping the nest in repair.
London Aquaria Society
Page 8
Bubble Nests
cont’d from page 8
The male will guard the eggs constantly until the fry hatch
in 24–48 hours and be suspended from the nest. For the
next few weeks, they will stay nearby being tended by the
male. [2] During the spawning embrace, the male betta
(with long fins) wraps his body around the female in such
Male Betta with Bubbles.
a way that their genital openings almost lie opposite each
other. Spawning takes place near the bubblenest, usually
directly underneath it. During courtship the fins of the females are often split apart.
Aquarium Fish in Outside Summer Ponds
Posted on March 1, 2014 by Thomas R. Reich PhD — 1 Comment ↓
http://aquariumfishadvisor.com/aquarium-fish-outside-summer-ponds/
Keeping and Breeding Aquarium Fish in Back Yard Ponds
In temperate zones, many of the livebearers seen in home aquariums can be bred in summer in
garden pools and ponds. The Mollies are particularly suited to this and produce extra-fine specimens
as long as the water is reasonably warm. In a good pool, they will survive at 60F quite comfortably
but will not breed unless at about 65F to 70F. It is a custom in many fish-keepers families to place
Mollies out in the spring and to net out the proceeds in the fall. A small pool of some 450 to 500
gallons will yield 1,000 young from a stocking which contained perhaps 10 adults 6 months previously. The pond must be protected from predators like birds and even cats, but smaller enemies such
as insect larvae fail to keep up with the Molly production line of fry. A great advantage to fish like
mollies swordtails and guppies is they have a ravenous appetite for mosquito larva!
Swordtails, Platys and Guppies can similarly
be bred in outdoor ponds but the average temperature must be warmer first. These Mexican and Central American native fish do not take to chill as readily as the Molly. However, there is not noticeable
improvement with outdoor breeding like there is
with the Molly, which produces better, larger and
more exotic fishes when pond bred and raised. It is
even alleged that Sail-fin Mollies only produce a
worth-while crop of Sail-fin young when bred out of
doors in the summer;
London Aquaria Society
Page 9
Aquarium Fish in Outside Summer Ponds
cont’d from page 9
“I have personally experienced amazing success
with Sail-fin Mollies in summer ponds, and have never
raised an impressive specimen indoors” Remarked Dr.
Thomas R. Reich an Ichthyologist that specializes in
freshwater aquarium fish.To some extent, most tropical aquarium fish can be acclimatized to lower temperatures outside than they can survive inside, but
they must not be suddenly subjected to lower temperatures. To the same extent, when the fishes are
brought in again at the arrival of fall, any necessary rise must be gradual, and the best plan is to use
water from the pond in which the fishes
To some extent, most tropical aquarium fish
can be acclimatized to lower temperatures outside
than they can survive inside, but they must not be
suddenly subjected to lower temperatures. To the
same extent, when the fishes are brought in again at
the arrival of fall, any necessary rise must be gradual,
and the best plan is to use water from the pond in
which the fishes have been kept, gradually replacing
it with other water, until you have acclimated your pond fish fully to indoor water and conditions.
This is, in fact, how most of the fish you buy in your local tropical fish store are raised. They
are bred in large outdoor pools in Florida and
other areas of the world, raised in these outdoor pools and then acclimated to indoor
aquarium water, before they are shipped to
your local pet store.
Stocking your garden pool or fountain
with live-bearer fish like Mollies, Guppies and
Swordtails can be infinitely more interesting,
gratifying and ultimately even profitable than
the standard 5 or 6 Goldfish or expensive
Koki.
They may be attractive fish but they do not eat mosquito larva or algae for the most part,
which is the norm for the fish we have been talking about, in fact their favorite foods. The activity of
the Live-bearers darting about and the constant emergence of new life through the pond can be a joy
for the whole family, and virtually maintenance free.
London Aquaria Society
Page 10
Aquarium Fish in Outside Summer
Ponds
cont’d from page 10
The fry eat the natural Infusoria and
green water and the adults eat the mosquito
larva and other water creatures, which means
only occasional feeding is necessary. At the end
of the summer, you will be surprised at the fine
specimens you have created!
Hybrid Fish
www.theaquariumwiki.com/Hybrid_Fish
About Hybrids: Hybrid fish are often brought up in conversation when it comes to species identification. In order for two fish species to hybridise, they need to be very closely related in the gene pool,
even then there's not always a guaranteed cross. Hybrids are not encouraged as they can dilute species and often the offspring are ugly. Many aquarium societies will not except any Hybrid fish to be
sold during club meetings or auctions, this is to prevent "contamination" of the genetics of the species.
One other reason that hybrids are discouraged is that most species will not hybridize in nature,
Hybrids may also have problems such as fin shape not found in parent fish. Some fish will only hybridize with other closely related fish under certain lighting conditions.
Hybrids are usually associated with great controversy especially when the species is now extinct in the wild.
An interesting observation, especially with Catfish hybrids, is the growth of these fish is twice as fast as
their purebred relatives, this must be taken into account if you are considering keeping a hybrid! They
may also grow larger than either of their purebred parents.
Below we have compiled a list of true hybrid fish and how they came about.
Livebearers: Guppy x Endler - They will have the elongated fins of the Guppy, but the orange/black distinctive
spots of the Endler, they will also be smaller than a
Guppy. They can vary in pattern greatly, and many hybrids are now been selectively bred to create specific
strains, such as the Tiger Endler. Many Endlers bought in
pet stores are often Guppy crosses, true Endlers have
rounded short fins, the crosses will have more angular
longer fins.
London Aquaria Society
Page 11
BEST IN SHOW
Name
Bob Steele
May
Leanne Shore
May
Name
Bob Steele
Leanne Shore
Bob
Steele
Name
Blake Gowenlock
Leanne
Shore
Bob Steele
Fish Name
Month
L-106 Spotted Orange Seam Pleco
Bluegrass Guppy (Poecilia reticulata)
Month
May
May
February
Month
February
May
February
Gift Certificate Sponsor
Southwestern Pet Centre
Big Al's Aquarium Services
Adult Fish Competition
open
pairs
Red x Red Zebra Cichlid (Metriaclima estherae)
Bluegrass Guppy (Poecilia reticulata)
open
L106 Spotted
Seam Pleco
AdultOrange
Plant Competition
open Black with Silver Guppy, male (Poecilia reticulata)
open
Asian Watergrass
aristata)
Bowl Beautiful
Angel fish (Hygroryza
(Pterophyllum
scalare), Hengel's Rasboras
Ribbon
Red
Red
Red
Ribbon
Blue
Red
Red
( Trigonostigma hengeli), Java FernHybrid
(Microsorum
Fish pteropus)
James Kelly
from page 11
February Bowl Beautiful Cherry Barbs (Puntiuscont’d
titteya)
Linda & Fred Cromb
February
Blue
Bowl Beautiful Ilydon xantusi - white, Rabbit Snail (Tylomelania),
Female Guppy/Endler hybrids will be harder to spot due to the
Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata),
White
lack of colour compared to males, it's best to rely on the tail shapes to
Albino African Clawed Frog (Xenopus laevis),
identify
Madagascar
Lacethem.
Plant (Aponogeton madagascariensis)
Not all livebearers can hybridise, a Guppy and a Platy for example,
cannot cross. These, however, can:
Platy x Swordtail - Closely related, won't create fish that look much
more different than a Platy.
Platy x Platy - There are several Platy species, store-bought Platys are usually hybrids already.
Molly x Molly - (or Poecilia sphenops), as above with Platys.
Molly x Guppy - Called a "Muppy" or "Golly". This does happen, but the fry are sometimes very weak and do
not live long. Even if they are stronger they are usually nondescript in coloration and fins and people rarely persist with them.
Cichlids: Not all Cichlids can hybridise either, and crosses are often
unsightly and undesirable, the exception being the Blood Parrot
Cichlid and the Flowerhorn. It is NOT encouraged to breed these
hybrids and put them into the pet trade, it only dilutes bloodlines.
Not all Cichlids can hybridise either, and crosses are often unsightly and undesirable, the exception being the Blood Parrot Cichlid
and the Flowerhorn. It is NOT encouraged to breed these hybrids
and put them into the pet trade, it only dilutes bloodlines.
It must be noted that many of these crosses are highly aggressive fish
and are best kept in species tanks or with equally mean-tempered robust tank mates. The only real exception is
the Blood Parrot, but it can still pack an attitude if it wants to!
London Aquaria Society
Page 12
Month
Plant
Category
Aquatic
Animals
September
open
open fish Loaches, Suckers & Catfish (e.g. Corydoras, Brochis, Plecos )
October
open
open fish Cyprinids (e.g. Goldfish, Koi, Barbs, Danios, Sharks, Rasboras,
White Clouds….)
November
open
open fish Cichlids-substrate spawning (e.g. Angels, Kribs, Rams….
- mouth-brooding (e.g., Aulonocara…)
December
none
January
open
open fish Guppies, (Fancy, Trinadadian...)
February
open
open fish Anabantids (e.g. Bettas, Gouramis, Paradise
Bowl Beautiful
March
open
open fish Mollies, Platies, Swordtails
Novelty Tank
April
open
open fish Characoids (Tetras, Hatchetfish, Silver Dollars...)
May
open
open fish My Favourite Fish (any type of fish)
June
none
none
none
Fish Categories
Class
None - Due to Christmas Pot Luck
My Favourite Fish
Family
Novice
Egglayer
Non-Fish
Novice Livebearer
Pairs
None due to Awards Night
-
Hybrid Fish
cont’d from page 12
Flowerhorn - The exact crosses that create this fish are unknown, but it's suspected to be a cross of Cichlasoma trimaculatum, Amphilophus citrinellus with possibly Cichlasoma festae and Vieja synspila also added
to the mix. Flowerhorns are quite desirable, especially in the Far East, and large males with large nuchal
humps can be exceptionally pricey.
Blood Parrot Cichlid - exact crosses unknown, often are not fertile, but fertile BP's are becoming more common.
King Kong Parrot Cichlid - obvious Midas Cichlid cross
Jelly Bean Parrot Cichlid - often dyed

Love Heart Parrot Cichlid - with cruelly amputated tail
Bubblegum Parrot Cichlid - obvious Convict Cichlid cross
Red Texas - Red Devil x Texas Cichlid
Texas Jaguar - Texas Cichlid x Jaguar Cichlid
Convict Cichlid x Severum
Convict Cichlid x Firemouth
Green Terror x Blue Acara
Wolf Cichlid x Red Terror
Wolf Cichlid x Red Devil
Pterophyllum scalare x Pterophyllum altum (an uncommon
and relatively new captive-bred hybrid)
London Aquaria Society
Page 13
Hybrid Fish
cont’d from page 13
African Cichlids: You need to be really careful when buying African Cichlids, specifically Mbunas, from pet
stores as many on the market are hybrids, if you want genuine purebreds it's best to go to fellow breeders
or at least enquire further about their history. Never buy African Cichlids from a tank labelled "mixed
Cichlids", you don't know what you're going to end up with.
Catfish: Catfish hybrids are far less common than Cichlid or Livebearer but not unheard of. Common Catfish
such as Plecos and Corydoras are very unlikely to hybridise however. Here are some of the known hybrids:
Red Tailed Catfish x Tiger Shovelnose Catfish - will grow larger than both parents so expect a fish around 4 ft
long! Not for beginners or those without large indoor tropical ponds over 3785.4 Litres (1000 US G.).
Red Tailed Catfish x Perruno Catfish - another potential monster. For tropical ponds only.
Red Tailed Catfish x Marble Catfish - again, see above!
Blind Cave Tetra
www.fishchannel.com/fish-species/freshwater-profiles/blind-cave-tetra-2.aspx
Statistics
Scientific Name:
Astyanax fasciatus
Family:
Size:
Temperature:
Alkalinity:
Origin:
Characidae
3½inches
65 to 78 degrees
undemanding
Mexico, Texas
Blind Cave Tetra Species Profile: The blind cave tetra is a schooling species that is a little too aggressive for the normal tetra community. It is best kept in a group of three to six individuals in a tank
with other robust fish, such as small cichlids, livebearers, barbs and
catfish.
Like most tetras, the blind cave tetra prefers a somewhat dark
environment. It is best housed in a tank that contains several bunches
of large plants (either live or plastic) in the back and on the sides of the tank, with smaller plants in the front,
leaving plenty of open space for swimming. A layer of floating plants to diffuse the light is also suggested.
Most tetras are carnivores that are specialized for eating small aquatic insects and the larvae of terrestrial insects. In the aquarium the blind cave tetra will do quite
well on commercial flake, frozen or freeze-dried foods. Be sure
to vary its diet between dry foods and small live foods, such as
bloodworms, glass worms, brine shrimp and Tubifex worms.
As with most tetras, the blind cave tetra is an extremely
prolific breeder, and, although the adult female appears to have
a fuller body, the best way to ensure a breeding pair is to purchase a group of six or more and let them pair up. The fry
hatch quickly — within two to three days — and are freeswimming from the sixth day. The fish are able to see as fry, but
as adults, they lose their eyes.
London Aquaria Society
Page 14
Breeding Synodontis multipunctatus
Cuckoo Catfish
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/catfish/cuckoo.php
Synodontis multipunctatus is called the Cuckoo Catfish due to its peculiar breeding behavior. Instead of
caring for their own eggs, they use mouthbrooding cichlids. The offspring will not only be cared for by the
cichlid; since Cuckoo Catfish larvae grows faster than cichlid larvae and will actually use cichlid offspring as
food. In some cases, there will be no cichlid eggs or larvae since the Cuckoo Catfish parents ate all the cichlid
eggs before the cichlid has any chance to pick them up.
This intricate relationship between Cuckoo Catfish and cichlids naturally makes breeding Synodontis
multipunctatus a bit complicated, since you must provide them with suitable breeding, mouthbrooding cichlids. It is however far from impossible and for those willing to devote time and energy to the project, the success rate is actually very high.
Synodontis multipunctatus – introduction: Synodontis multipunctatus is an African catfish native to Lake
Tanganyika where it inhabits muddy bottoms down to at least 100 m. The largest known wild specimen was 27.5 cm in length. The temperature in the aquarium should be kept between 21 – 25°C and
the hardiness in the dH 15-35 range. The pH must be alkaline, from pH 8.0 to 8.5.
Synodontis multipunctatus is a zoobenthos feeder and snails make up its staple diet. It also
needs some vegetable matter in its diet to stay healthy. In captivity, they are not fuzzy eaters and
they readily accept frozen food. Synodontis multipunctatus is a nocturnal species and should therefore ideally be fed when the aquarium is dark. The need plenty of hiding spots in the aquarium since
they want to stay hidden during the day.
Keeping Synodontis multipunctatus is growing increasingly popular, but finding fully mature
adults can still be tricky. You may therefore have to purchase young specimens and raise them yourself.
Choosing a cichlid host: The safest bet is of course to choose a cichlid species from the same habitat
as Synodontis multipunctatus , but this is not mandatory. Successful breeding has for instance taken
place with Haplochromis sauvagei as
host fish, even though this species is native to Lake Victoria. The most important thing is that both species appreciate
the same conditions and will not eat or
fight each other. It is of course a good
idea to pick a cichlid that easily spawns
in captivity, or even one that you have
managed to successfully breed yourself in
the past.
London Aquaria Society
Page 15
Breeding Synodontis multipunctatus
Cuckoo Catfish
cont’d from page 15
The breeding aquarium: A 100 L aquarium will
be enough to breed Synodontis multipunctatus
and the set-up can be quite simple. Decorate the
aquarium and get the necessary equipment just as
you would for non-breeding Synodontis multipunctatus, and then add a few terra cotta caves.
Do not expect instant breeding; the fish needs
some time to familiarize themselves to the new
home.
Conditioning: You will need to condition both Synodontis multipunctatus and the host cichlid to
coax them into breeding. Synodontis multipunctatus should be fed plenty of meaty foods. This is especially important for the females.
Spawning: You know that spawning in imminent when the cichlids begin to display courting behavior. This will trigger the male Synodontis multipunctatus and he will keep a watchful eye over the
male cichlid at all times. When he believes that spawning is at hand, he will fetch his female partner
and she will take a look at the situation. The female can then either leave and hide somewhere, or
decide to breed. If she chose the second alternative, the male will chase her around a bit until the
cichlids start to spawn. When the cichlid female releases her eggs, the Cuckoo Catfish couple will rush
in and release and fertilize their own eggs. They will often eat all the cichlid eggs. The cichlid will of
course believe that the eggs are cichlid eggs and pick them up.
Fry development: Synodontis multipunctatus larvae normally hatch after 48-72 hours. If the cichlid
managed to pick up any cichlid eggs at all, eggs and/or larvae will be promptly eaten by the Cuckoo
Catfish larvae. Cuckoo Catfish larvae can also retort to cannibalism. If provided with a nutritious diet,
Cuckoo Catfish fry can be 13 mm long within two months.
Fry food:
Baby brine shrimp is a
good first food when breeding Synodontis multipunctatus. Gradually give
your fish bigger and bigger brine
shrimp as they grow. Larger specimens
can also be given chopped up bloodworms. Ideally feed your fry several
times a day instead of just 1-2 large
feedings.
London Aquaria Society
Page 16
Advice For Life!
Pharmacists Ed Plesko and Dave Perlman
along with Registered Pharmacy Technician
Jennefer Gerber Maclean, make up one of
London’s most experienced pharmacy
teams.
We provide you with exceptional
pharmacy service in a professional, efficient
and courteous manner.
In a world where “Big Pharma” sometimes
treats customers like a number, we strive to
C.A.O.A.C. Club Report
make a personal connection with each and
every patient. We are independently
Annette & Ron attended the CAOAC Conowned. There are no quotas here and your
vention with a fairly good attendance and
privacy is always protected.
some great speakers.
You and your health matter to us. Advice
Both the CAOAC and IBC Shows had quite a few entries.
for Life is more than a slogan, it’s our phiThe dinner was delicious but only a few clubs donated to the
losophy. Come in and meet our team.
Presidents Challenge.
You’ll be glad you did.
We also attended the Annual General Meeting but there were
Ed, Dave and Jen
only a few clubs in attendance.
Your London Centre PharmaChoice Team
No club reports were given out at this meeting.
I have a copy of the AGM reports from all of the committees if anyone wishes to see it.
The Auction had a good number of items in it.
All in all, we had a great time.
The CAOAC Presidents Barbeque is on June 28th.
London Aquaria Society
Page 17
GIVE YOUR FISH WHAT THEY DESERVE!
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aquarium supplies from AngelFins.
Visit us at angelfins.ca or call/e-mail us to schedule
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Fax: 519-782-3139
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10% Discount to all Club Members
The London Aquaria Society is a non-profit
organization, established in June 1956. Its
main objective is to promote interest in breeding and raising tropical fish and to provide a
means through which hobbyists may exchange
ideas, gain information and display their fish,
sharing them in the public in the London Area.
London Aquaria Society
Advertising Rates
Business Card……………….……$25.00
1/4 page…………………….…….$40.00
1/2 page…………….…………….$75.00
Full Page…………………..……..$125.00
Rates apply for a year coverage totaling 10
issues of our Newsletter. Articles in this publication
may be reprinted provided full credit is given to the
Author, the London Aquaria Society and 2 copies of
the published bulletin or magazine in which the article appears, is to be mailed to:
London Aquaria Society
P.O. Box 45010, RPO Fairmont
London, Ontario N5W 1A3
Page 18
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London Aquaria Society
Page 19
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London Aquaria Society
Page 20