Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge A Community Perspective Kelly Brenner Tech Topics Spring 2007 Steigerwald National Wildlife Refuge S A Community Perspective Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife action the site saw was the teigerwald Lake is locatRefuge has a very deep history involving Na- Bretz Floods between 12,000 ed in the mouth of the tive Americans, duck hunting owners, a port Columbia River Gorge ownership, attempts to destroy the wetlands, 15,000 years ago. While some on the Washington side British rule, and the naming of Mt. Hood. It of the namesake typography of the river between has seen the likes of Lewis & Clark and Lt. isn’t apparent on this site, the Camas and Washougal. The William Broughton. It also has a very promis- evidence is there in the form refuge contains 1,406 acres ing future with a Comprehensive Conserva- of flood deposits known as the tion Plan by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service of which 75% is owned by Troutdale Formation. The site as well as the Columbia Gorge Refuge U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. is no stranger to floods and is Stewards involvement. Steigerwald Lake Refuge is has been regularly flooded for part of the Ridgefield Complex which includes the years, which has created a topography with many Ridgefield Refuge as well as two closer refuges, poplar trees and sand bars. The first Europeans to discover the mouth Franz Lake (552 acres, established in 1990) and of the Columbia River was Capt. Robert Gray in Pierce 319 acres, established in 1983). 1792 with George Vancouver following close behind to verify the discovery. Lt. William Broughton Wildlife There is a multitude of wildlife regularly observed was sent up the Columbia to map it and near the end of 1792 he arrived on Coton the refuge. Canada Geese upwards tonwood Beach, part of the curof a thousand have been seen there with rent refuge, from where he named nearly as many ducks which include Wood the visible mountain after Admiral Ducks, Cinnamon Teal, Mallards, Pintail, Hood who happened to be the Hooded Mergansers and more. Great voyages sponsor. At this point, the Blue Herons nest in a rookery on nearly refuge was actually under British Reed Island and regularly use the refuge rule. for foraging. Due to the location along the In 1806 during the months Pacific Flyway, the refuge sees occasionof March and April, Lewis and al rare visitors. Among these are WhiteClark made camp near the current faced Ibis, Cattle Egret, American Avocet, refuge and it was from this locaWhite Tailed Kite and the Mute Swan aftion they scouted the Willamette fectionately named ‘Lonesome George’ by River. Five years later, David the Stewards. Among the mammals are Thompson was commissioned by Black-tailed Deer, coyote and raccoons. the Northwest Company to chart the entire Columbia River and he History also camped at the same location The history of this site dates back as Lewis and Clark. for many years with the first noticeable The lakes name comes from Allen Normal Steigerwald, a longtime Portland resident who established the Rose City Nursery and Fruit Farm, from which came Steigerwald Dairy, located near the present day refuge. The dairy outlet is a well known Portland landmark located off Sandy Boulevard. Most residents have seen it transform from a large dairy bottle to a 7-Up bottle and most recently to a beer can. Steigerwald wasn’t the only well known connection to the refuge, the Kerr family, of Kerr Canning Jars, owned a field on the west side of the refuge. The Port of Camas-Washougal also has a large part in the history of the refuge. After the area was surrounded by a dike the Port moved in as the entire floodplain was zoned heavy industrial. Gibbons Creek runs through the refuge and was channelized after 1966. Prior to this, Coho Salmon, Sea-run Cutthroat Trout and Steelhead used the creek. However, when the tide gate which had been installed at the mouth was not maintained, most of the fish were lost. The beginning of the restoration process came in 1975 during the first Vancouver Audubon Society meeting with guest speaker Keith O’Neil, the Regional Director of the Washington Department of Game. He questioned the Society about whether they were going to do anything about Steigerwald Lake and spoke about the potential of the site to be used as a hunting preserve. It was at this point Wilson Cady of the Vancouver Audubon Society began his 30 year interest in the site beginning with counting birds on the site. Because the property was privately owned by Don Stevenson, Earl Martin and George Straub he had to sneak through the forested area to count birds. Stevenson used the lake to duck hunt and according to Cady, if there were no birds there when he arrived he would have his helicopter fly up the gorge and flush the fowl to his lake. The industrialization of the wetlands was questioned and the current owners insisted there were no birds on the property, despite the property being leased for duck hunting. This began a battle between the Vancouver Audubon Society and the property owners. At this point the major landowner, Stevenson proceeded to create a ditch in an attempt to drain the lake and reduce the amount of wetlands, cleared 30 acres of poplars and attempted to dispose of the braided Gibbons Creek. However, with a sense poetic justice for the Audubon group, his bulldozer broke down in the stream bed and he was fined for not having a hydraulic permit to alter the stream. The challenge for the Audubon Society continued as the Washington Department of Game conducted a study analyzing the potential of the site for wildlife value. At this point the Port applied for a grant through the US Economic Development Agency. However, the congressman at the time, Mike McCormick successfully omitted all environmental stipulations. The Port then used the grant for nearby offices and used the money originally for the offices to expand the industrial park. Steigerwald Refuge was nearly the home of a nuclear power plant, a fourwheel drive club and a crystal growing operation who wanted to produce phosphine (mustard gas) and aresene (gaseous arsenic). A Cascade Indian and former National Park Representative for Friends of the Earth, Chuck Williams, was instrumental in creating the Columbia Gorge Coalition which led to the creation of the National Scenic Area in 1986. Mark Hatfield, an Oregon politician created Steigerwald National Wildlife Refuge as mitigation for the Second Powerhouse at Bonneville Dam. His reasoning being he didn’t want visitors to Crown Point Vista House to look down on smokestacks on the Washington side. The refuge was officially established in 1987 after the Trust for Public Lands and then Ronald Regan purchased the property. Finished in 1992, Gibbons Creek was directed over the lake bed and a new fish ladder was created at the mouth of the creek. Columbia Gorge Refuge Stewards The Columbia Gorge Refuge Stewards is a nonprofit organization established in 2006 whose goal is to “support three National Wildlife Refuges in Clark and Skamania Counties”. Some of the Stewards activities on the refuges include testing water quality, conducting invasive species surveys, surveying visitor use, providing orientation/talks to school groups, designing an interpretive kiosk, grant writing and planting native plants. They help with projects that aren’t funded or can’t be accomplished with the single staff person overseeing all the refuges. Since 2006 the group has planted roughly 700 native trees and shrubs. The plants were purchased by the Fish & Wildlife Service and also by The Vancouver Audubon Society, the Georgia Pacific Mill in Camas and individual donors as well. The Camas Georgia Pacific Mill also donated many tools such as rakes, shovels, wheelbarrows, brooms, pruners and even binocular education kits. Much of the work has been planting native plants, but another just as large part has been the removal of invasive species. Reed Canarygrass and Himalayan blackberries dominate the refuge and have been fought by the volunteers. In fact, they’ve spent more time removing the grass and blackberries than planting natives. There is a huge diversity of volunteers and board members in the Stewards group. The president is Gay Leslie, from the Office of Policy and International Affairs, U.S. Department of Energy. Leslie’s expertise comes with oil and gas issues, public land issues, oceans policy and coastal management and international issues. Carol Kohler serves as the vice president with about 20 years of birding experience including many trips around the Pacific Northwest. She is also an active Audubon member. Wilson Cady acts as a board member. Cady is partly responsible for the establishment of the refuge and acted as Vice President of the Vancouver Audubon Society and President of Friends of Gibbons Creek. He is also a regular organizer and leader of many birding trips. Sallie Jones is another board member with experience with many other community groups including the Friends of the Washougal Library, Oregon Mycological Society and USACOE Fisheries Field Unit. Joan Durgan serves as the groups Treasurer with experience in Vancouver Audubon group and a local financial institution. Willemina Niosi acts as secretary and also acted as an organizer and leader in local groups. Steigerwald Lake Refuge In May I visited the site with Carol Kohler, Vice President of the Stewards group. Because the site is currently closed to the public with the exception of the dike along the river, it’s impossible to see without somebody involved with the restoration. The first thing she showed me was the Purple Martin nest houses they recently installed. The area around the ground was cleared of blackberries and several very tall posts were installed with a cross bar near the top which holds several nesting houses. The Purple Martins had already adapted to them and many sat on the cross bars. Next on the tour was the beginning of Gibbons Creek. On the other side of the dike away from the river the volunteers have planted many willow trees alongside the creek. Many are doing very well and are well over seven feet tall already. At first they were planting one single willow and marking it, but after some time they decided it was better to plant a triangle of willows in each area. This will improve the water temperature for a hopeful return of the many fish that once habited this creek. Further up the creek on the opposite side of the dike the volunteers have planted hundreds of native plants. First they had the Reed Canarygrass cut down and then planted row upon row of native plants. Each plant is situated in a plastic tube with a two foot surrounding area cleared out and then marked with a colored flag. The tubes protect the new plants from deer, although not well enough as was evident by the many chewed off tips that had broken free of the top of the tubes. The cleared area allows rodents to be easily seen by birds of prey. And of course the colored flags identify the kind of plant located in those tubes. Among the plants seen here include Mock Orange, Pacific Ninebark, Nootka Rose, Douglas Spiraea, Snowberry and many others. The rows of plants are very impressive as to the scale of the project. Many of the plants are doing very well to the point the roses are blooming inside their tubes and despite the constant deer nibbling, they are growing a great rates regardless. Directly to the North from the planting area is a small stand of Oregon White Oaks that have also been targeted for restoration. The Stewards and volunteers spent much time tearing out the mangle of blackberries that dominated the undergrowth. They then bought a native grass seed to spread under the oaks unknowing just how tall that specific grass would become. Before it grew that tall however, they planted some more native plants and native strawberries. Most of the native plants have been swallowed up by the grass but some strawberries can still be seen, a few even with berries on board. The group has plans to start more oaks from acorn and plant them further and further to the East in an attempt to expand the stand. The Stewards are all very excited about this project, putting many hours of their free time into the refuge. The day I visited they had a booth set up at the local town’s plant sale to raise money for the refuge. Many of the plants have been grown by volunteers and Steward members. This community saw the potential at this refuge and the opportunity to do something for future generations, not only for kids, but for future generations of wildlife and plants as well. It goes to show just what ‘regular’ people can really accomplish. -Kelly Brenner, University of Oregon Student Sources: Cady, Wilson. Wilson Cady’s Not-So-Brief History of the Steigerwald Lake NWR. U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Comprehensive Conservation Plan - Steigerwald Lake NWR, Franz Lake NWR, Pierce NWR. All Photos by Kelly Brenner
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