Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities

Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities
23 SEP – 8 OCT 2014
Tour Leaders
Code: 21428
Russell Casey, Iain Shearer
Physical Ratings
Visit the great oasis cities of Samarkand, Bukhara & Khiva
who reveal a rich history to all who venture inside their
gates: turquoise blue tilework, glorious minarets and
brooding fortresses.
Overview
2015 Departure
Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities with Iain Shearer and Russell Casey: 27 Sep - 12 Oct 2016
Tour Highlights
This tour is led by Russell Casey and archaeologist and Central Asian expert Iain Shearer who
explore the magnificent architecture and rich art traditions of Uzbekistan.
Wonder at the rich magnificence of Tamerlane's Samarkand and her great monuments presenting
some of the finest tilework in the world
Study a millennium of Central Asian architecture in Bukhara, beginning with the glorious Samanid
Mausoleum, the word's oldest surviving Islamic tomb
Wander through the atmospheric bazaars of Bukhara, feasting our eyes upon a rich variety of
traditional arts and crafts, from jewellery to the famous Bukhara carpets that so fascinated 19th and
20th Century European Museum and aristocratic collectors
Become fascinated by the history of the silk route as we trace the origins of contemporary Central
Asian arts and crafts through millennia of trade from her great mercantile cities. We will further
explore the history, geography and the many famous travellers who wrote in detail about the region,
including Marco Polo, Ibn Battuta and Armin Vambery, through a series of additional lectures
Visit Urgut village Sunday market - little known to western travellers - a traditional Central Asian
bazaar selling very fine old textiles; we will further explore the fascinating history of silk and
domestic and nomadic textiles and costumes in additional lectures
Get to know local potters, weavers, embroiderers and rug makers at their private workshops, learn
to read particular motifs and distinguish special textiles like Uzbekistan's famous suzani.
In Nukus view the Savitsky Karakalpakstan State Art Museum, holder of one of the greatest
collections in the world of early modernist Russian art, whose survival hinged on being hidden in
Central Asia by Soviet citizens exiled to the gulag.
Enjoy the lovely old city of Khiva, with her mud-brick walls, vividly tiled palaces, beautiful mosques,
shrines and tombs, and towering Central Asian minarets
Beyond the fertile delta of the Oxus we drive to the isolated village of Chimbai, rarely visited by
western travellers, to meet a family of yurt makers, some of the last artisans in Central Asia, beyond
the borders of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Mongolia.
Overview
Together, we’ll explore the wonders of Central Asia, a region famed in antiquity for her wealth and
splendour. Great oasis cities, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva, their names so redolent of mystery, luxury and
the glamour of the Orient, reveal an incredible culture and rich history to all who venture inside their gates:
turquoise blue tilework, glorious minarets, brooding fortresses, all set in a stark landscape of verdant green
fed by sparkling irrigation canals bringing life from lifeless deserts.
This extraordinary contrasting landscape has created a visual culture for the region, expressing joy and
meaning through colour, pattern and fabric of bright costumes still worn by Uzbek women. We will be
joined by guest lecturer, Iain Shearer, who has excavated and travelled widely throughout Central Asia.
Together we’ll explore glorious monuments in golden Samarkand, including the exquisite tomb of Timur
Lang (Marlow’s Tamburlaine), an incredible royal cemetery at Shah-e Zinda, home to some of the most
exquisite tilework in the world, the Sogdian city of Afrosiyab, site of some of the most fabulous and well
preserved frescos to rival Pompeii.
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We visit the great Registan, built by Timur Lang to glorify his victories and described by Curzon as the
“finest ensemble of Islamic building in the world.” We’ll see traditional hand embroidered suzanis in
Samarkand and Bukhara and glorious bazaars, still echoing to timeless rhythms. Noble Bukhara is an almost
complete trading city of the 16th, 17th and 18th Century, filled with domes, madrasa and an ancient Jewish
quarter, with a community dating back to the Exile to Babylon 2500 years ago. We’ll visit potters,
metalworkers, carpet weavers and miniature painters and contemplate how people in Central Asia respond
to the stimulus of a harsh, cruel and dramatic environment. We’ll stay in an ancient restored traditional
house in the middle of ancient Khiva, a timeless mudbrick oasis city of domes, mosques, palaces and
winding alleys. Finally we travel to the Karakalpak city of Nukus to visit the State Art Museum, a treasure
house of Russian early modernist art that escaped the Stalinist purges.
Travel in the footsteps of Alexander the Great, Timur Lang, Marco Polo, Stoddart and Connolly and
experience a world which has drawn so many famous travellers.
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Leaders
Russell Casey
A dedicated traveller with a passion
for calligraphy, miniature paintings
and textiles, Russell has travelled
extensively through the Middle East,
Iran & Central Asia. His language
studies include French, German,
Japanese, Arabic, Persian &
Mandarin. Russell has led ASA’s
tours since 2009.
Russell Casey has led tours for ASA since 2009. He has held a fascination for the Middle East, Persia,
Central Asia and the Silk Route since studying Latin at school. With a keen interest in languages, Russell
studied French, German, Japanese, Arabic, Persian and Chinese (Mandarin). Learning Japanese generated
an interest in calligraphy and woodblock prints. Persian and Arabic studies added to the appeal of
calligraphy and “The Art of the Book”, which in turn led to visiting some of the great libraries and museums
of the United Kingdom and Ireland to view their collections. After independently visiting Turkey, Syria and
Jordan, Russell travelled to Iran on the ASA Art and Culture of Persia tour in 2002. In 2005 after completing
the ASA Silk Route tour, he revisited Iran to further his understanding of Persian speaking peoples and their
arts - including textiles, architecture, gardens and cuisine. He holds a Queensland Ambulance Service first
aid certificate, a Master’s degree in Medical Physics and is undertaking independent study in the art, history
and culture of Central Asia, the Silk Route and surrounding regions. Russell consults in radiation protection
and eHealth including working as an expert advisor to the IAEA.
Iain Shearer
ASA's Academic Coordinator
Graduate Uni. College (London),
Fellow of the Royal Asiatic Society &
Sackler Scholar. Archaeologist in
North Africa, the Balkans, Central
Asia, China, Afghanistan, Pakistan,
India and Middle East. Iain leads
ASA’s Silk Route, Iran, Oman,
Algeria & Eastern Turkey tours.
ASA's Academic Coordinator
Iain Shearer is an archaeologist who has always been fascinated by the many cultures and stories to be
unearthed and explored within the Islamic World. During the last 20 years, he has worked as an
archaeologist in North Africa, the Balkans, Central Asia, China, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and the Arab
Middle East and was appointed a Fellow of The Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland in 2008.
Iain has successfully led a number of tours for the British Museum, The Traveller, ACE Cultural Tours and
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Distant Horizons across the Maghreb, the Arab Middle East, Iran and Central Asia, and was the Lonely
Planet author for the Saudi Arabia and Hajj guides in 2009, as well as the upcoming edition for 2013, Lonely
Planet Iran 2012 and the author of the forthcoming updated Bradt guide to Iran. Iain is passionate about
exploring and explaining the thrilling histories and cultures of the Arabic, Persian and Turkic speaking
peoples and hosted an episode of National Geographic and Lonely Planet's Roads Less Travelled to
Kazakhstan, which still lurks darkly in the nether regions of cable television, airline entertainment systems
and the internet. He recently left the Middle East department of the British Museum where he was the
Sackler Scholar for Afghanistan and Iran and is currently dividing his time between Sydney, the UK, the
Maghreb, the Middle East and Central Asia.
See YouTube short documentaries by Iain Shearer
Cathedral of Holy Ascension in Almaty, Kazakhstan, Lonely Planet travel writer
Exploring the Green Market in Almaty, Kazakhstan, Lonely Planet travel writer
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Itinerary
The detailed itinerary provides an outline of the proposed daily program. Participants should note that the
daily activities described in this itinerary may be rotated and/or modified in order to accommodate changes
in museum opening hours, flight schedules & road conditions.Meals will be taken in hotels and in
restaurants, many with a historical or local flavour. At times picnic lunches will be provided. All meals are
included in the tour price and are indicated in the itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch and D=evening
meal.
Tashkent - 2 nights
Day 1: Tuesday 23 September, Arrive Tashkent
Welcome meeting & refreshments
Orientation tour
Keflsashi Complex
Barak Khan Madrasa
Tila Shaikh Mosque & Archives (Osman Qur’an)
Participants travelling on the ASA ‘designated’ flight are scheduled to arrive in Tashkent in the early
afternoon. Upon arrival we shall transfer by private coach to the Hotel Dedeman Silk Road. Tashkent is the
capital of Uzbekistan. A city was founded on its site in the 1st century BC and became a major entrepôt
after the Arab conquest in 751. However little remains of historic Tashkent. It was severely damaged by an
earthquake in 1966 and rebuilt in grandiose Soviet style. It is currently the fourth largest city in the
Commonwealth of Independent States with a population of 2.3 million.
After settling into our hotel there will be a welcome meeting and refreshments, followed by a short
orientation tour of the city. This will include a visit to the Keflashi Complex and the Barak-khan madrasa
complex, different parts of which were constructed from the 16th to 17th centuries. One of the earliest
sections is a large mausoleum-khanaka (1530), crowned with double cupola on crossing arches. A member
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of the Sheybanid dynasty, Suyunidj-khan (Ulugh Beg’s grandson) built it. Suyunidj-khan’s son NauruzAkhmed, transformed the complex in the 16th century. The madrasa is organised around a central courtyard
but has distinctive features such as majolica and brick mosaic wall decorations and windows enlivened with
diverse painted geometrical ornament. We shall also visit the Tila Shaikh Mosque, which contains an
antique Qur’an manuscript brought to Central Asia by Timur (Tamerlane). It is one of the oldest surviving
Qur’ans in the world. Tonight we dine together at the hotel’s restaurant. (Overnight Tashkent) D
Day 2: Wednesday 24 September, Tashkent
Morning Talk: The Silk Road
Kulkadesh Madrasa
Tashkent Fine Art Museum
Akbar Ceramic Museum and Workshop
Memorial House Museum of Tamara Khanum
Today’s program begins with a morning talk setting your tour within the general context of the history of
the Silk Road. We shall then visit the Kulkadesh Madrasa (exterior only). The madrasa, built in 1506, was
modeled upon the Ulugh Beg Madrasa in Samarkand. Recently restored, it has a fine tiled façade and
entrance. Within may be glimpsed a large domed courtyard and the Kukeldash Djuma Mosque.
Our morning’s program concludes with a visit to the Tashkent Fine Art Museum that holds a collection of
the finest textiles in Uzbekistan, including magnificent embroidered suzani, ikat robes and gold embroidery.
After lunch at a local restaurant we visit the house factory of the master ceramicist Akbar. Situated in the old
city, it contains a small ceramic museum and workshop. Here you will learn how the styles and techniques of
Central Asia’s fine ceramic traditional are not only being preserved but also inspiring new, innovative forms.
Our final visit today is to the house museum of Tamara Khanum (1906-1991), an Uzbek folk dancer and
singer of Armenian origin who was the first Uzbekistani woman to perform publicly without a veil. Tamara
became a soloist at the Uzbek Philharmonic at the age of 30 and became active in the reform of Uzbek
national dance. She gained international fame, however, by collecting the folk dances and songs of diverse
nations. She was a quick learner, and could perform a piece like a native within a few days of first
encountering it. She amassed her own collection of national dresses including those from the Balkans,
China and much of Asia, and even Egypt that are displayed in the museum. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD
Samarkand - 4 nights
Day 3: Thursday 25 September, Tashkent – Samarkand
Mausoleum of Timur (Gur-i Mir)
Registan (evening view of exterior)
We depart this morning by private coach for Samarkand. After lunch we visit one of the city’s finest
monuments, the Mausoleum of Timur. We may also make a short visit to see the majestic Registan at
sunset.
Samarkand, the most famous of Central Asian cities, stands on the site of pre-Islamic Afrasiyab, a Sogdian
city that flourished in the centuries before the Islamic conquest. Excavations have unearthed terracotta
heads and mural paintings in the ruins of a palace from the Sogdian era. After conquering the region in 710,
the Muslims constructed a Mesopotamian-style citadel in Afrasiyab, similar to the famous round royal city of
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Baghdad. In the 9th and 10th centuries the Persian Samanid lineage governed Samarkand and Bukhara.
Persian Islamic art, architecture and culture flowered in both cities. The Turkic Qarakhanids (Karakhanids)
succeeded the Samanids as masters of Samarkand in 999. The Mongolic / Manchurian Qara Khitai (KaraKitan) and Turkic Khwarazm Shahs then subjected Samarkand in turn. The city prospered as one of the most
important Central Asian entrepots from the 9th to the 13th century. Not only was it prominent in the
Eurasian trade but was also the administrative heart of Transoxania and a centre for the production of paper
and ceramics. It was supported by an extensive agricultural hinterland watered by a sophisticated irrigation
system. During this period numerous palaces, mosques, markets, caravanserais and baths were constructed
here. As in Bukhara, mausoleums, madrasas and khanqahs (Sufi lodges) were gradually added as Islamic
architecture diversified.
The city, however, suffered immensely from the Mongol invasions. The Mongols warned all cities that unless
they surrendered unconditionally, they would be razed to the ground. The first Muslim cities in their path,
Samarkand, Balkh, Herat and Nishapur, failed to realize the deadly seriousness of the Mongol threat and
were totally destroyed. Regional agriculture also endured a major setback as a result of Mongol ravaging of
the countryside. From the arrival of the Mongols in 1220 until the rise of Timur (Tamerlane) in the mid-14th
century, the area of Samarkand remained desolate. The spread of the Black Death compounded this dire
situation.
Despite these tribulations, the region remained strategically and commercially viable and agriculturally
important and in 1369 Timur selected Samarkand as the capital of his emerging Asian empire. Timur
resolved to make it the most beautiful city in the universe, a centre for Islamic art, architecture and culture, a
veritable ‘paradise on Earth’. To achieve this he forcibly transferred here artisans and craftsmen from the
many areas he conquered. Persians, Syrian Arabs and Anatolian Turks all participated in the reconstruction
of the city according to Timur’s grandiose vision.
They constructed much of the vast theatrical main square of the city, Timur’s mausoleum, the Bibi Khanum
mosque dedicated to his wife, and numerous other mosques, madrasas and mausoleums, cladding each in
luxurious polychrome tile skins as a statement of the wealth and power of Timur. Succeeding Timurids and
Uzbeks perpetuated the dazzling opulence of Timur’s city, adding new mosques, madrasas and
mausoleums to the urban fabric. One great builder was Timur’s grandson Ulugh Beg who added a large
madrasa, the portal of the Shah-i Zindeh Cemetery, and an observatory, the design of which was repeated
many times in India. To this great corpus the Timurids’ successors added many resplendent monuments
that we shall also view in the city. They continue the Timurid style, with majestic portals, towers and lobed
domes all cloaked in shimmering tiles of blue, turquoise, yellow and white. As we explore Samarkand we
shall trace the development of Timurid form, decoration and function and their symbolism. (Overnight
Samarkand) BLD
Day 4: Friday 26 September, Samarkand
Registan and its Madrasas
Abdullah’s carpet workshop
Fashion Parade at Alfiya’s Gallery
This morning commences with a visit to the Registan and its three madrasas: the Ulugh Beg Madrasa
(1417–1420), the Sher-Dor Madrasa (1619–1636) and the Tilya-Kori Madrasa (1646–1660). The Ulugh Beg
Madrasa’s pishtaq (façade), decorated with geometrical stylized forms centres on an imposing iwan and is
framed by high minarets. The square courtyard within includes a mosque and lecture rooms fringed by
dormitory cells for students. Four deep iwans dominate its axes.
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The 17th-century ruler, Yalangtush Bakhodur, constructed of the Sher-Dor Madrasa opposite the Ulugh Beg
Madrasa and the Tillya-Kori Madrasa at right angles to it to form the present monumental complex.Tiger
motif mosaics in the spandrels of the Sher-Dor’s pishtaq flout Islam’s proscription of the depiction of living
beings on religious buildings. The Tilya-Kori acted not only as a madrasa but also a grand mosque. It has a
two-storied main façade and a vast courtyard fringed by dormitory cells, with the usual four iwans on its
axes. The mosque building, whose main hall is abundantly gilded, occupies the western flank of the
building.
After lunch we visit a local carpet workshop that produces silk carpets using traditional dyes and weaving
techniques. You will meet the workers and the organizers of the factory and see at close hand the
production of hand-knotted carpets. We will then attend a fashion parade of contemporary Uzbek fashion
design at Alfiya’s Gallery. (Overnight Samarkand) BLD
Day 5: Saturday 27 September, Samarkand
Bibi Khanum Mosque
Cemetery of Shah-i Zindeh
Afrasiyab Museum
Ulugh Beg Observatory
Samarkand theatre of historical costume El Merosi
We begin with a visit to the Bibi Khanum Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world. This
enormous structure, which is orientated on an axis between a vast entrance portal and a huge domed
prayer hall, has recently been restored with the aid of UNESCO. Its vast scale gives a vivid impression of
Timur’s megalomania. Situated next to the mosque is one of the busiest markets in Uzbekistan. Every now
and then travelling acrobats entertain the large crowds that visit the market to buy food, wool and every
other conceivable commodity.
Next, we shall visit the Shah-i Zindeh cemetery, the ‘city of the dead’ that Timur created as a family burial
complex; it contains 25 mausoleums. The Shah-i Zindeh cemetery is one of the most resplendent necropoli
in the Islamic world. Although smaller than the great cities of the dead in Cairo, its intense and unified
architecture inspires visions of worldly wealth and of paradise, the twin goals of Timur. Its most important
feature is the tile work that covers many of the tomb façades, arguably the greatest single collection of
architectural ceramics in the world. The predominant colour is blue, worked in myriad gorgeous hues by the
craftsmen whom Timur collected during his conquests and transported to his ideal city.
After lunch we visit the fascinating Afrasiyab Museum and the Ulugh Beg Obseratory. When the Muslims
invaded this region they destroyed the earlier Sogdian city of Afrasiyab, which is now a huge mound on
Samarkand’s flank. The Sogdians had been renowned traders along the Silk Route and consequently their
material culture absorbed motifs from as far apart as Persia and China. Although little remains of the former
city, one corpus of wall paintings has survived, preserved in a purpose-built museum. Some depict
processions of courtiers and merchants wearing fabulously rich textiles, many of them obviously silks of the
highest quality. These paintings will give you an invaluable insight into early Central Asian textiles and the
culture that produced and traded them.
Nearby is the Ulugh Beg Observatory where the heavens were charted. Ulugh Beg’s astronomical research
that was carried out here was still being used by Europeans in the 17th century.
In the early evening we visit Samarkand’s theatre of historical costume, El Merosi, to review the textile and
clothing history of Central Asia. Costumes as varied as those of Achaemenid soldiers, nomadic warriors and
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Sogdians merchants are based upon various archaeological investigations (including the reliefs at Persepolis
and finds at the ancient city of Afrosiab) and ancient art works such as Persian miniatures and the designs on
pottery. The show will also give you interesting insights into how modern Uzbeks view their own
history. (Overnight Samarkand) BLD
Day 6: Sunday 28 September, Samarkand – Urgut – Kohni Ghil Village – Samarkand
Urgut village Sunday market
Handmade Paper Making, Kohni Ghil Village
Private home of textile merchant, Mr Gulom
This morning we drive out of Samarkand to a Sunday market in the village of Urgut. Few tourists visit such
village markets, at which locals from the surrounding countryside sell their produce and buy provisions.
Such local markets are the backbone of provincial commerce, and everything produced and needed in the
region is sold in them. There are potters, tinkers, cobblers, tailors, carpenters, vendors of all kinds of
vegetables, fruit and animals, teahouses and people selling an extraordinary variety of prepared food often
cooked on open stoves. Of greatest importance to us are the textile stalls, especially those that sell
magnificent suzani (needle point embroidery). These richly coloured hangings once graced the interiors of
nomadic tents (yurts) but are also used by locals to decorate the interiors of their houses.
After visiting the Urgut market we make a special excursion to nearby Khoni Ghil village to observe the
production of special Samarkand handmade paper. This UNESCO project has involved the restoration of an
old water mill in which an ancient art is now practiced. When the Arabs defeated a Chinese army at the
Battle of the River Talas in 751, it is said that they captured artisans and equipment for making paper
something the Chinese perfected a millennium before its introduction to the West. Samarkand became the
first Islamic city to manufacture paper, a development of untold significance for global intellectual history.
This project will therefore give you a unique view of a time-honoured and extremely historically important
practice.
At lunchtime we visit the private home of Mr Gulom, who specializes in trading old and new textiles. Here
we shall view his private textile collection and eat lunch. The remainder of the afternoon will be at leisure to
allow you to explore more of Samarkand, especially the stalls selling textiles, ceramics, musical instruments
and myriad other objects. (Overnight Samarkand) BLD
Bukhara - 4 nights
Day 7: Monday 29 September, Samarkand – Gijduvan – Bukhara
Kizilkum Desert
House of Potter Alisher, Gijduvan
Today we drive for six hours across the Kizilkum Desert to Bukhara, known as Bukhara ash-Sharif, ‘the
noble’. Along the way we stop at the oasis town of Gijduvan, an important ceramic centre, known for the
distinctive designs and coloration of its ceramics. We shall visit a family operation in a large rustic courtyard
house, watch the potters at work (a donkey turns the wheel which mixes their clay), and the firing in kilns of
centuries-old designs. Gijduvan is also known for its distinctive suzani made by the local women and also
displayed at the potter’s house. It is certainly not a typical Western industrial centre but a small, isolated
artisanal village surrounded by vast desert. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD
Day 8: Tuesday 30 September, Bukhara
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Khanqah of Nadir Divan Beg
Taq-i Sarrafon
Maghak-i Attari Mosque
Taq-i Tilpak Furushan (Market of the Headgear Sellers)
Tim Abdullah display center
Metal chaser shop
Madrasa of Ulugh Beg
Madrasa of Abd al-Aziz Khan
Taq-i Zargaran (Jewellers Market)
Kalyan Complex
Madrasa of Miri Arab
Archaeologists have found evidence of human habitation in communities spread around the Bukhara oasis
from as early as 3,000 BC, long before Bukhara enters written history in 500 BC. Around 1,700 BC outlying
local communities fused with Aryan settlers, moving into the inner oasis. Thenceforth, we recognize the
local population as Sogdian. For the next millennium the Sogdians, living in city-states along the Zeravshan
Valley, dominated the central part of the Silk Route, trading East as far as China. By 500 BC Bukhara had
become a vassal state (satrap) of the Achaemenid (Persian) Empire and later became part of the Empire of
Alexander the Great, his Seleucid successors, the Greco-Bactrians, and the Kushan Empire. At this time it
was a cult centre of the Zoroastrian goddess Anahita. Later, after the fall of the Kushan Empire, the city,
now subject to Turko-Mongolian incursions, became a centre of Manichaeism and Nestorian Christianity.
The city at this time constituted a fortress mound, a temple, markets and circular outer walls.
Slowly integrated into the Islamic world after the Battle of Talas (751 AD), Bukhara became the capital of
the great Persian Samanid Empire (c. 850). Rivalling Baghdad in the richness of its culture, it became the
centre of the Islamic world, especially when Mohammad Al-Bukhari, a native of the city, collected the
hadith (sayings and observances of the Prophet) there. It also became a centre of Central Asia’s most
important Sufi order, the Naqshbandi. At this time it rivaled Cairo, Córdoba and Baghdad in population.
In 999, the Turkic Qarakhanids (Karakhanids) toppled the Samanids and like Samarkand, Bukhara
subsequently was subject to the Mongolic / Manchurian Qara Khitai (Kara-Kitan) and Turkic Khwarazm
Shahs. It was plundered by Chinghis Kahn and integrated into the Mongolian Chagatid state and later into
the Timurid realm; Timur embellished Samarkand to the detriment of Bukhara. The city emerged as the
capital of the Khanate of Bukhara, ruled by the Shaybanid Dynasty (1500 – 1598). It was later ruled by the
Uzbek Manghit dynasty. Between 1785 and 1920 it became the Emirate of Bukhara. Like Samarkand,
Bukhara, centring on a citadel (ark), was embellished with richly decorated monuments.
It has one of the oldest Islamic tombs in existence, the Samanid Mausoleum, and the minaret of its Friday
mosque is a Qarakhanid masterpiece. These two buildings were constructed using the usual materials of the
Central Asian steppe, brick. The Samanids applied traditional Iranian architectural styles, decorated using
brick relief, in a new Islamic context. This type of architecture endured until the Mongol period when
Muslim artisans started to produce tiles and embellish buildings with them. In the 12th century two
additional institutions developed, the madrasa or theological college, the first of which was founded in
Baghdad in 1096, and the khanqah or Sufi retreat. Architecturally, madrasas and khanqahs were often
similar and it is usually their location within a city that confirms their function. Initially tiles were used to
highlight and accentuate brick relief patterns but over time tile mosaics in blue, green, yellow, black and
white replaced brick relief entirely. Timur completed this transformation by sheathing entire buildings in tile
skins, a practice which spread all over Iran and Afghanistan and into northern India.
Successors to the Timurids built many madrasas, and the city also retains vestiges of its extensive Bazaar.
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Without the commerce which passed through this vital throbbing heart, typical of all the desert cities on the
silk route, Bukhara and its sister cities would never have survived or flourished. Rulers invested great sums in
market infrastructure, in the provision of covered market areas, warehousing and shelter for merchants and
the revenues from the markets enabled them to enrich the city with monuments.
Today we shall visit three types of monumental complexes. The first is the great Kalyan mosque and
minaret. The second is a group of madrasas and khanqahs, many of which now house textile shops. The
third is the bazaar, which has been functioning for a millennium. These three types of complexes were
originally interdependent in that the rents from stalls in markets were used to support the religious
institutions. Although the madrasas and khanqahs were suppressed by the Soviets, their architecture was
nevertheless restored and provides a stunning complement to the great monuments you have seen in
Samarkand. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD
Day 9: Wednesday 1 October, Bukhara
Samanid Mausoleum
Chasma Ayyub Mausoleum
Char Minar Madrasa
Hunarmand UNDP workshop
Gold embroidery workshop
Afternoon at leisure
Nadikhon Devan Begi Madrasa
We continue our exploration of Bukhara with visits to the Samanid Mausoleum, the Chasma Ayyub
Mausoleum, Balakhauz Mosque and the Char Minar. Built in 1809, the Char Minar was once the gate of an
ancient madrasa, and takes its name from its four decorative towers.
The morning’s program concludes with a visit to the Hunarmand UNDP Assisted workshops near
Lyabikhauz. Here we may see block printing on dasterkhawn, metal chasing, suzani embroidery and wood
carving. We will also visit a gold embroidery workshop.
The afternoon will be at leisure, allowing ample time to explore the bazaars. The nomadic carpets in
Bukhara are inexpensive compared to those available in Australia. This evening we attend a show at the
Nadikhon Devan Begi Madrasa. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD
Day 10: Thursday 2 October, Bukhara
Ark (Citadel)
Sitora-i-Mokhikhosa, Summer Residence of the Former Emir of Bukhara
Dinner at Akbar’s House
Today’s program commences with a visit to Bukhara’s Ark, the palace complex from which the city, like
most Central Asian cities, was ruled. One of the profoundly interesting features of much of the architecture
you will see in Bukhara is that its magnificent tile work includes Chinese motifs like dragons, which were
traditionally not a Central Asian form. These motifs travelled with people and objects along the Silk Road.
For example, it is highly likely that the tile-makers of Bukharan monuments were inspired by motifs they saw
on Chinese textiles.
After lunch at a local restaurant we make an excursion to Bukhara’s city limits to visit Sitora-i-Mokhikhosa,
the summer residence of the Former Emir of Bukhara. There is a section in the residence where a rare
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November 2016
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collection of suzani is on display.
Dinner will be hosted at Akbar’s House, a traditional Bukharan house in the old Jewish quarter. Here you
will be able to see a fine collection of textiles and have the opportunity to purchase some prized pieces for
your own collection. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD
Khiva - 2 nights
Day 11: Friday 3 October, Bukhara – Khiva
Today we make a long drive across the Kizilkum Desert to the region of Khorezm in the far west of
Uzbekistan, near the Aral Sea. Khorezm was isolated from the oases of the east by desert and therefore for
much of its history followed an independent course. We drive most of the day to reach the city of Khiva,
stopping along the way for a picnic lunch. At times we shall be able to see the Amu Darya, known in
antiquity as the Oxus, which winds to the south of the desert. (Overnight Khiva) BLD
Day 12: Saturday 4 October, Khiva
Ichon Qala Gates, Walls and Kalta Minor
Kukhana Ark
Madrasa Rakhimkhon
Hunarmand handicraft workshops
Mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud
Islam Khodja Minaret
Tosh Khovil Palace & Caravanserai
Juma Mosque
We spend the day in the ancient city of Khiva that, through Soviet restoration, is physically the most uniform
of all Central Asian cities. Although initially this restoration as a museum made it somewhat sterile, the city
is now being re-inhabited by artisans who are using its lovely buildings as workshops. One of these, a
carpet weaving and suzani project, is particularly fascinating. Its organizers have researched original plant
dyes which are gathered from the fields around Khiva and also the representations of Central Asian carpets
in European paintings and Persian miniatures. The designs of the carpets it makes reproduce the carpets
depicted in these works of art. There will also be ample time to see local fabrics and ceramics for sale in the
bazaar.
Khiva is located on the fertile Amu-Darya river delta and served trade passing to the Caspian Sea and
beyond to the Volga River and thus to Eastern Europe. It is now divided into two sections, Ichon Qala, the
old walled city and modern Khiva. This ancient Khwarazmian city emerged as a major centre when Ilbars,
the Shaybanid Uzbek, made it his capital in 1512. Ilbars modeled the monuments he built on the great
Timurid buildings of Bukhara and Samarkand and his successors maintained this practice through to the
19th century. Among Khiva’s most interesting monuments is the Juma Mosque, parts of which date to the
10th century. A feature of the mosque is its hall of wood columns, an Arabo-Islamic detail. (Overnight Khiva)
BLD
Nukus - 1 night
Day 13: Sunday 5 October, Khiva – Nukus
Savitsky Karakalpakstan State Art Museum, Nukus
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Today we drive west to Nukus, capital of the Autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan, Uzbekistan’s
westernmost region. Along the way we may view Shilpyk Kala, a Zoroastrian Ring of Silence (tower tomb).
In the past, Kara-Kalpaks lived in small villages, inhabitants of which were all relatives belonging to the same
kin. These settlements were located along the region’s irrigation canals. Traditional housing was the yurt
and along with it there was another kind of shelter made from a frame filled with reeds. Its walls and roof
were patched with clay. In recent years, these types of settlements have changed. Contemporary KaraKalpak villages now have houses with big windows, wooden floors, electricity, water, natural gas and
sewerage. Yurts can only be found in villages where they are used as summer housing. Carpets, bright
blankets, ceramic and porcelain dishes with painted mosaics create an atmosphere of beauty in modern
Kara-Kalpak houses.
Only the elderly preserve traditional dress. Ancient Kara-Kalpak dresses are very colourful, especially
women’s headgear and head coverings. Contemporary style is, for the most part, European with stylish
forms of traditional dress preserved in forms of women’s short skirts. The history of the unique handicrafts of
the Kara-Kalpak people goes back centuries. From ancient times, the art of wood engraving, leather
processing, weaving and embroidery were highly developed. The decorations of Kara-Kalpak yurts include
carpets, stair-carpets, rugs, loom-work of soft brown, purple, soft green, and yellow colours.
In the afternoon we shall visit an extraordinary museum, hosted by its director, Marinika Babanazarova.
Founded in 1966, the Savitsky Karakalpakstan State Art Museum comprises a collection of over 95,000
pieces, including Uzbek fine arts, applied Kara-Kalpak folk art, and ancient art from the region of Khorezem.
The museum represents the life’s work of the Moscovite painter/archaeologist Igor Vitalyevich Savitsky who
moved to Nukus in the mid 1950s. It also houses a priceless collection of early 20th century Russian avantgarde paintings; many of their counterparts in Russia were destroyed during the Stalinist era and these
survived due to Nukus’ isolation. (Overnight Nukus) BLD
Tashkent - 2 nights
Day 14: Monday 6 October, Nukus – Chimbai – Tashkent
Yurt-making family of Karimbai, Chimbai village
Yurt band decoration weavers of Khudaibergen
Gulnara Handicraft Display Centre
Flight Nukus to Tashkent
This morning we drive out to the isolated village of Chimbai to the Karimbai family where their son, Kural,
runs a workshop which makes yurts for nomadic families. Yurt-making is a dying art in Uzbekistan. The yurts
are made for villagers who live in the desert during the summer cattle breeding season. We shall also visit
the family house of yurt band decoration weavers of Khudaibergen.
After lunch at our hotel, we visit the Gulnara Handicraft Centre where we can see needlepoint embroidery
of Krakalpakstan, suzani, handkerchief making and other household items with embroidery. In the early
evening we take a domestic flight to Tashkent. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD
Day 15: Tuesday 7 October, Tashkent
Madrasa Abdul Kassim (with artisanal workshops)
Museum of Applied Arts
Afternoon at leisure
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Evening Lecture: Concluding seminar
Farewell Evening Meal at the Caravan Restaurant
We shall spend the morning visiting Tashkent’s museums, monuments & workshops. Our program includes
visits to the Museum of Applied Arts and the Madrasa Abdul Kassim which has workshops producing a wide
range of objects, including intricately painted boxes, woodcarving and metalwork.
Following some time at leisure in the afternoon, we shall conclude our program with a final seminar
followed by a farewell evening meal at the Caravan Restaurant. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD
Day 16: Wednesday 8 October, Tour ends in Tashkent
In the morning we shall transfer to Tashkent airport to take our flight home. We are scheduled to depart
mid-morning. B
Ferghana - 4 nights
The Ferghana Valley Post-Tour Extension
8 – 13 October 2014
A 6-day post-tour extension, led by local guides, focusing on the textiles and ceramics of the Ferghana
Valley.
Introduction
This 6-day tour extension visits the rich, populous Ferghana Valley. The Ferghana Valley achieved almost
mythic meaning in antiquity as the place where the heavenly horses prized by the Chinese Han Dynasty
were bred. China was assailed by the Xiongnu (possibly Huns), a nomadic people on its northern borders.
Like most Turko-Mongolians, they were excellent horseback fighters. China’s lack of open pasture made it
almost impossible to breed strong, large-framed cavalry mounts, so the Chinese emperors sent an envoy,
Zhang Qian to the Ferghana around 130 BC, and thereafter attempted to import horses from the Valley.
They were wild, powerful, and purportedly sweated blood! Whatever the status and practical military value
of Ferghana’s famous horses, this long valley, carved through the high mountain ranges by the tributaries of
the Syr Darya, the Naryn and Kara Darya, is one of the most fertile and populous regions in Central Asia. A
territory of Uzbekistan that is located between Kyrgysztan and Tajikistan, it has a fascinating ethnic mix of
Uzbeks, Tajiks, Kyrgyz, Uighurs and Kazaks, all of whom are Turkic, except for the Persian Tajiks. This
polyglot population derives, in large part, from the fact that the Ferghana is not only very fertile, but also a
vital corridor linking Xinjiang province of China (East Central Asia or East Turkistan) to West Central Asia. It
was long a vital conduit for Silk Route trade and was coursed by conquerors as diverse as the Chinese,
Persians, Greeks, Kushans, Arabs and Tibetans, to name but a few. Always a contested territory, it
eventually was controlled by the independent Uzbek khanate of Kokand, which fell to the Russians in the
19th century.
The Ferghana’s scenery is spectacular. Views of its green fields, long poplar plantations, lines of mulberry
trees (for silk) and many villages are always backed by the high, vast Tien Shan Range that runs from this
part of the world right across Central Asia to the north of China. The valley’s large population lives in
villages that line its major roads. Everywhere, these are made up of typically Central Asian courtyard houses
surrounded by orchards and mulberry plantations. You’ll also see many small mosques and teahouses; the
latter are major nodes of social interaction for local men. Ferghana’s high population concentration means
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that everywhere we shall encounter bustling bazaars that are famous throughout Inner Asia.
Uzbek folk art has a long history stretching back centuries. It evinces has a wealth of variety in style,
materials and ornamentation. In the past, each region had its own cultural and ethnic traditions. Unique
features were established by local guilds who strengthened these characteristics over time. It was possible
to recognise where someone came from by his tyubeteika (embroidered skull-cap), the colour and style of
his chapan (gown). The embroidery in a house meanwhile identified the housewife’s or her mother’s
birthplace.
The Itinerary
The following itinerary describes a range of museums, homes and historic monuments which we plan to
visit. Many are accessible to the public, but others require special permission which may only be confirmed
closer to the tour’s departure. The daily activities described in this itinerary may change or be rotated
and/or modified in order to accommodate alterations in opening hours, flight schedules and confirmation of
private visits. Participants will receive a final itinerary together with their tour documents prior to departure.
All meals are included in the tour price and are indicated in the itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch
and D=evening meal.
Day 1: Wednesday 8 October, Tashkent – Andijan – Ferghana
Flight from Tashkent – Andijan
Hunarmand Centre (Andijan Handicrafts Centre)
Babur Literary Museum, Andijan
Workshop of Muxiuddinov Abdumalik
Early this morning we transfer by private coach to Tashkent airport to take our flight to Andijan in the southeastern part of the Ferghana Valley. The city, which stands on ancient deposits of the Andijon River, dates
back at least to the 9th century. In the 15th century it became the capital of the Ferghana Valley and, being
on the Silk Road caravan route to China, was a chief centre of trade and handicrafts. In the 18th century it
became part of the khanate of Kokand and in 1876 Andijan was captured by the Russians.
Babur, founder of India’s great Mughul Dynasty, wrote of the city:
‘There are seven cities in Ferghana valley. Five of them are situated on the southern bank of the Seykhun
River, while the other two stand on its northern bank. One of the southern cities is Andijan, just in the
middle. This is the capital of Ferghana valley. Bread is abundant there and the fruit is rich, while melons and
grapes are the best. In Maverannakhr, besides Samarkand and Kesh, there is no fortress bigger than
Andijan. There are three gates, and the citadel is located in the southern part. Water comes to the city by
nine canals; and the most amazing thing is that it does not drain anywhere. The people of Andijan are all
Turks; there is no one in the city or in the market who cannot speak Turkic. The spoken language is very
close to its literary variant. Alisher Navoi’s works are written in this language though he was brought up in
Herat.’
In 1902 Andijan suffered a terrible earthquake and was subsequently rebuilt. Of its historical monuments –
only the Jami madrasa remains. Today Andijan is one of the biggest industrial centres of Uzbekistan. Many
modern industrial enterprises are located here including the manufacture of cars, cotton and textiles. The
city is surrounded with fruit gardens, cotton and wheat fields.
We shall commence our tour of Andijan with a visit to the Andijan Handicrafts Centre where we shall meet
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its director, Younusova Manzura. The workshop includes examples of doll-making, suzani embroidery,
chupan-making, hat embroidery and silk weaving. Manzura has set up a creative group in what was
originally a wealthy 20th-century merchant’s mansion. The activity of the group involves the revival of
boldosozlik Andijan jewellery restoration, bosma chalk and iroqi chalk embroidery weaving of bekasam and
adras.
The morning’s program concludes with a visit to the museum of the great leader and adventurer Babur.
Babur lost his Ferghana kingdom to the Uzbeks (c. 1500) and was forced to flee across the Himalayas to
northern India. He never gave up the dream of regaining his native land, but this was not to be. The Mughal
dynasty enriched Indian culture with strains of Central Asian culture which the great Akbar fused with
indigenous Hindu forms. The museum was opened in 1989 on the site of his residence to celebrate the
460th year of the publication of his autobiographical Baburname, published in English as The Memoirs of
Babur.
This afternoon we drive to Baghe-i-Shumal to visit the private workshop of Muxiuddinov Abdumalik, a metalchaser and master knife-maker. Here, we may also see his wife’s skull-cap embroidery, and his son’s
jewellery. Uzbek craftsmen of today still practice ancient jewellery making techniques for gemstone cutting,
grain filigree, granular work, engraving, embossing, chasing and enameling.
In the late afternoon we continue our journey by coach to Ferghana. We shall drive along roads lined, at
regular intervals, with villages made up of typical courtyard houses. The roads are flanked with endless lines
of tall poplars and between them and the house walls are ditches to carry water and mulberry trees whose
leaves are fed to silk worms to produce the precious thread of their cocoons. (Overnight Ferghana) BLD
Day 2: Thursday 9 October, Ferghana – Margilan – Ferghana
Yodgarlik Silk Factory, Margilan
Workshops at the Madrasa Ishan Hoja
Margilan Bazaar
The Ikat Handicraft Developing Centre – Fazlitdin Dadajanov (silk master)
In the second half of the 19th century weaving became Uzbekistan’s most highly developed handicraft.
Bukhara, Namangan, Margilan, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Kitab, Karshi, Khojent, Urgut and Khiva were all
famous for their textiles. Cotton textiles such as kalami, alocha, susi and chit; semi-silk textiles such as
bekasab, banoras, pasma, adras, duruya, yakruya, atlas and bakhmal, and silk textiles such as shoiy, atlas
and khan-atlas were most popular. Woollen textiles were also manufactured for coats. Among the variety of
textiles a notable place belongs to semi-silk Bukhara and Kokand velvet, Samarkand and Ferghana coverlets
and the finest transparent silk shawls, kalgai. In 1896 the Ferghana Valley had around 600 silk-weaving
workshops based in Margilan, Namangan and Kokand. By 1910, there were 1387 silk-weaving workshops
with 3165 workers (including 911 workshops with 2570 workers in Margilan).
This morning we visit Margilan’s Yodgorlik Silk Factory to witness all steps in the manufacture of Central
Asian silk. Employing over 2,000 workers working in the traditional manner, it produces an annual output of
some 250,000 square metres of high premium silk cloth. The weavers from Margilan make semi-silk adras,
plain silk shoi and world famous khan-atlas, blazing with all the colours of rainbow, or in exquisite black and
white patterns with shining veins of blue or green.
In Margilan we also visit the Ishan Hoja Madrasa to see masters at work, including block-printer Shukurullah
(son of Abdullaev Solidjon); Rasuljan Ahmedov and his son who are known for the rare Bakhmal weaving
now found only in Margilan; carpet weaver Umida Apa and Sherezad, master of dyeing and knotting.
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Block-printing is an art that came into existence many centuries ago. Printed cloth was originally used for
serviceable items such as dresses, scarves, the lining of men’s gowns, tablecloths, bedspreads and for
funeral shrouds. With the advent of industrialization this unique art almost became obsolete in
Uzbekistan. Currently only Mr. Abdullaev Solidjon and his son from Margilan, the Rakhirnov brothers from
Tashkent and the Ribyanov-Nikitina family from Samarkand are making traditionally block-printed textiles.
The cotton fabric is initially saturated with a particular solution, and hand-carved wooden or rubber stamps
(koliba) are used to apply the pattern. The stamp is pressed into a natural dye and then repeatedly applied
to the material. Many of the varying designs incorporate fruit and animals. Mr. Solidjon and his son display
their artistic flair by using antique wooden stamps for edging and adorning the central panels with unique
modern designs that are seldom repeated.
This afternoon’s program includes a visit to the Margilan bazaar and to the Ikat Handicraft Developing
Centre, where silk master Fazlitdin Dadajon will show us examples of ikat and bakhmal weaving. (Overnight
Ferghana) BLD
Day 3: Friday 10 October, Ferghana – Shakrixon – Rishton – Ferghana
Grand bazaar and knife-makers workshop, Shakrixon
Blue ceramics of Rishton (Master Potters Rustam Usmanov and Alisher Nazirov)
In the Middle Ages a richly decorated belt knife whose handle would be encrusted with precious stones
indicated courage and nobility among the military aristocracy. Bukhara arms and armor were of great value
far beyond Central Asia. According to early Russian documents, Khiva and Bukhara merchants brought
them as gifts to Moscow’s rulers. Illustrations in medieval miniatures as well as surviving examples show that
ancient Bukhara and Samarkand knives had rather long and narrow blades with very sharp tips. The
Ferghana valley was one of the earliest metal-working centres. A 10th century Arabian chronicler wrote that
iron arms made in Ferghana were commonly used from Khorasan to Baghdad. Later, Ferghana armourers
began to specialize in making knives and this craft is still practiced in Kokand, Andijan and other towns of
Ferghana Valley.
This morning we travel to Shakrixon where we shall visit both the grand bazaar and a knife-makers
workshop. Here the ancient craft of knife-making has been revived thanks to the fourth-generation master
Rakhmatilla Eshon, and masters Rakhmatkhoja Alikhojaev and Ibrokhimjon Aliev. Fifteen types of knives are
made here: straight and curved, clasp knives and fancy knives. The scabbards for Shakrixon knives are made
of brass and copper. They are richly engraved and chased, encrusted with semi-precious stones and stained
glass. The handles and scabbards of the most expensive knives are decorated with silver fretwork kumush
sirpasta and chillikha.
Rishton is the oldest centre of ceramic art in Central Asia. Famous glazed earthenware invented here for
local people household use is now exported widely. Examples vary in shape, ornamentation and colour.
The most characteristic colouring is a turquoise, dark blue and brown scheme on a milky-white background.
Ishkor glaze, made from ashes, gives the earthenware its beautiful soft sheen.
The Rishton ceramists’ mastery of hand-painted compositions seems inexhaustible. The paintings, which are
done mostly in a freestyle manner, are based on direct observation of nature and the surrounding world.
Each artist’s individuality is manifest in a unique manner within strict traditions of folk art that developed
over centuries.
Mid-morning we travel to Rishton to visit the families of two of Uzbekistan’s master potters. First, we visit
the private house of potter Rustam Usmanov, a famous master of blue ceramics. Here we may see his
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family’s pottery manufacture and firing, using traditional techniques. Rustam Usmanov has built his own
complete pottery studio at home. Mahmud Azizov, a skilful master of kuzagar, produces various forms on
wheel, which Rustam and his relatives then paint by hand.
Rustam Usmanov’s art is in perfect harmony with folk traditions. On graduating from the Tashkent Institute
of Theatre and Art he devoted much of his time to studying old Rishton ceramics in books and museum
collections. This helped him enrich his knowledge of earthenware and gradually develop his own original
style, freedom of composition and technological skill. The mastery of his beautiful paintings and the
richness of their patterns give a unique character to each of his works. They are some of the best examples
of Uzbekistan’s decorative art.
After lunch we visit the house of Alisher Nazirov to meet his family and watch them make their own
particular ceramics, again using traditional methods. Alisher Nazirov has studied the patterns of
archaeological finds and has reintroduced ancient forms and patterns into Rishton ceramics. Having
established tight connections with Japan (in 1994 he trained in the workshop of Isokichi Asakura, master of
the Kutani School) he took part in the World Ceramic Exhibition of Komatsu in 1997. Alisher Nazirov’s
creations are represented in the collections of the State Museum of Arts of Uzbekistan, the Direction of Arts
Exhibitions of the Academy of Arts of Uzbekistan, the State Museum of Oriental Nations’ Art in Moscow, the
Museum of Ethnography in Saint Petersburg and the Museum of Ceramics of Asakura-san in Komatsu
(Japan). (Overnight Ferghana) BLD
Day 4: Saturday 11 October, Ferghana – Kokand – Dangara – Ferghana
Fort Museum of Khodoyar Khan, Kokand
Dakhma-i-Shakhan Royal Cemetery (Cemetery of the Khans of Kokand)
Juma Mosque, Kokand
Wood carving workshop of Mirza Usman Umarov, Dangara
Today we drive to the ancient city of Kokand, centre of the Khanate of Kokand that was toppled by the
Russians. On arrival we visit the fortress palace of Khodoyar Khan, the last ruler of the Khanate of Kokand.
This fortress-museum has a fine collection of textiles as well as interesting exhibits including old Central
Asian carts with large wheels that could negotiate Asia’s rutted roads.
Uzbek masters have raised woodcarving to the level of a fine art. Wall panels, caskets and boxes, the little
national table, khantaxta (with a hexahedral or octahedral top made of walnut, beech or plane) and the
laukh (a Koran stand), are covered with intricate engraved patterns.
Umarkhan was one of the best-known khans of the Kokand khanate who took the throne in 1810 by coup
d’etat. He wanted enlightenment for his people and the development of his land. Many calligraphers,
painters, and poets worked at his court. His wife, Nadira, was an exceptional poet, who was associated with
the construction of several Kokand mosques, madrasas and caravanserai.
One of Nadira’s most remarkable constructions is the Dakhma-i-Shakhan burial complex where Umarkhan
was interred. This architectural complex is typical of the Fergana Valley. The complex, called a khazira,
consists of a domed entrance hall entered through a splendid portal decorated with patterns of blue and
dark-blue glazed tiles. Similar bright tiles cover the base of the dome. Of special interest is the frame of the
upper part of the portal whose pattern is also seen in Ferghana fabric bekasams.
While in Kokand we also visit the Juma mosque, built in the early 19th century, it centres on a 22 metre
minaret and includes a huge, colourful iwan (arched portico) supported by 98 redwood columns brought
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from India.
In the late morning we drive to Dangara where we shall visit the house of Mirza Usman Umarov and the
wood carving family of the late master Qadir Jan Khaidarov. Here we shall have lunch and meet with the
house manager Adila Opera who has arranged to show us the workshops. (Overnight Ferghana) BLD
Tashkent - 1 night
Day 5: Sunday 12 October, Ferghana – Tashkent
Afternoon at leisure
This morning we depart Ferghana travelling through the mountainous Kamcik pass to Tashkent. After lunch
on arrival, the remainder of the afternoon will be at leisure for you to explore the city further, and prepare
for your onward or homeward journey. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD
Day 6: Monday 13 October, Tour ends Tashkent
Airport transfer for participants departing on the ASA ‘designated flight
There will be a coach transfer to Tashkent airport, where you will be assisted in check-in for your flight to
Australia or elsewhere. B
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Accommodation
16 Days in Uzbekistan
All hotels are rated 3-4-star locally (except in Nukus which is a family-run BB) and include rooms with private
facilities. Single rooms may be requested – and are subject to availability and payment of the single
supplement. Tourism in Uzbekistan is new. This is part of its allure but also means that tourist facilities are
not of the quality of those of the USA or Western Europe. Those considering taking this tour must be
prepared at times for basic facilities and inefficient service. A hotel list will be given to all participants prior
to departure.
Tashkent (2 nights) 4-star Hotel Dedeman Silk Road - a first class hotel located in the business
district of Tashkent. www.dedeman.com
Samarkand (4 nights) 4-star Hotel Malika Prime - offering 22 guest rooms. www.malikasamarkand.com
Bukhara (4 nights) 3-star Omar Khayyam Hotel - located in the historic centre within walking distance
of all the ancient monuments. www.hotelomarkhayam.com
Khiva (2 nights) 3-star Hotel Malika Khivaek - built in 2008 this traditionally designed hotel is located
inside the walled city next to the Islam Khodja Minaret. www.malika-khiva.com
Nukus (1 night) Hotel Jipek Joly - decorated in Karakalpak national style, located next to the Savitsky
Museum
Tashkent (2 nights) 4-star Hotel Dedeman Silk Road - a first class hotel located in the business
district of Tashkent. www.dedeman.com
6 Days in the Ferghana Valley: Post-Tour Extension
All hotels are rated 3-4-star locally and include rooms with private facilities. Single rooms may be requested
– and are subject to availability and payment of the single supplement. A hotel list will be given to all
participants prior to departure.
Ferghana (4 nights) 3-star Hotel Asia, - offering 57 spacious and bright rooms, located in a
renovated old building in Russian style. In its garden is a restaurant and a swimming pool.
www.asiahotels.uz
Tashkent (1 night) 4-star Hotel Dedeman Silk Road - a first class hotel located in the business district
of Tashkent. www.dedeman.com
Note: Hotels are subject to change, in which case a hotel of similar standard will be provided.
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Tour Map
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Tour Price & Inclusions
Tour 21428: Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities
AUD $5980.00 Land Content Only - Early-Bird Special: book before 31 March 2014
AUD $6180.00 Land Content Only
AUD $400.00 Single Supplement
For competitive Economy, Business or First Class airfares and/or group airfares please contact ASA for
further information.
Tour Price (Land Content Only) includes:
Best available 3-4 star hotels (except in Nukus which is a family-run BB) in twin-share rooms with
private facilities
All meals indicated in the tour itinerary, where: B=breakfast, L=lunch & D=evening meal
Drinks at welcome and farewell meals. Other meals may not have drinks included
Bottled water during excursions
Transportation by air-conditioned coach
Airport-hotel transfers if travelling on the ASA 'designated' flights
Porterage at hotels and airports
Internal airfare Day 14: Nukus - Tashkent
Lecture and site-visit program
Tour notes
Entrance fees to museums and monuments
Tips for the coach driver, local guides and restaurants for included meals.
Tour Price (Land Content Only) does not include:
Airfare: Australia - Tashkent, Tashkent - Australia
Personal spending money
Airport-hotel transfers if not travelling on ASA 'designated' flights
Luggage in excess of 20 kg (44 lbs)
Costs for taking photographs (a supplement at some sites may be required in Uzbekistan)
Travel insurance
Single entry visa for Uzbekistan
Tour 21428a: Ferghana Valley Post Tour Extension
AUD $2290.00 Land Content Only
AUD $190.00 Single Supplement
Tour Price (Land Content Only) includes:
Best available 3/4 star hotels in twin-share rooms with private facilities
All meals indicated in the tour itinerary, where: B=breakfast, L=lunch & D=evening meal
Bottled water during excursions
Transportation by air-conditioned coach
Airport-hotel transfers if travelling on the designated flights
Porterage at hotels and airports
Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities
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Internal airfare Day 1: Tashkent to Ferghana Valley
Lecture and site-visit program conducted by local guides
Entrance fees to museums and monuments
Tips for the coach driver and local guides.
Tour Price (Land Content Only) does not include:
Beverages with meals
Personal spending money
Airport-hotel transfers if not travelling on the ASA 'designated' flights
Luggage in excess of 20 kg (44 lbs)
Travel insurance
Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities
November 2016
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Physical Endurance & Practical Information
Physical Ratings
The number of flags is a guide to the degree of difficulty of ASA tours relative to each other (not to those of
other tour companies). It is neither absolute nor literal. One flag is given to the least taxing tours, six to the
most. Flags are allocated, above all, according to the amount of walking and standing each tour
involves. Nevertheless all ASA tours require that participants have a good degree of fitness enabling 2-3
hours walking or 1-1.5 hours standing still on any given site visit or excursion. Many sites are accessed by
climbing slopes or steps and have uneven terrain.
This 16-day tour involves:
Walking across uneven terrain
Fourteen days of coach touring including: long-distance intercity coach travel between Tashkent and
Samarkand (approx. 5 hours); Samarkand and Bukhara (approx. 6 hours); Bukhara and Khiva (approx.
8 hours)
Regular early-morning (8.30am) starts.
Other considerations:
3 to 5-star hotels (except in Nukus which is a family run BB) with five hotel changes
Rudimentary toilet facilities (during some day-excursions)
You must be able to carry your own hand-luggage. Hotel porterage includes 1 piece of luggage per
person.
Risk of gastric ailments (you should consult your doctor about medication before departure)
1 internal flight: Nukus – Tashkent.
It is important to remember that ASA programs are group tours, and slow walkers affect everyone in the
group. As the group must move at the speed of the slowest member, the amount of time spent at a site
Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities
November 2016
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may be reduced if group members cannot maintain a moderate walking pace. ASA tours should not present
any problem for active people who can manage day-to-day walking and stair-climbing. However, if you
have any doubts about your ability to manage on a program, please ask your ASA travel consultant whether
this is a suitable tour for you.
Please note it is a condition of travel that all participants agree to accept ASA's directions in relation to their
suitability to participate in activities undertaken on the tour, and that ASA retains the sole discretion to
direct a tour participant to refrain from a particular activity on part of the tour. For further information please
refer to the Booking Conditions on the last page of this tour itinerary.
Passort Requirements
All tour members should ensure that they have sent ASA a copy of the front page of their current passport
no later than 3 months prior to departure.
Please check that your passport will be valid for 6 months after your date of return to Australia. This
is important because many countries will refuse entry to anyone whose passport is about to expire.
Please make sure your passport has at least 2 empty pages (1 page will be used for Uzbekistan visa
stamps)
Visa Requirements
The following visa will be required for passengers travelling on an Australian passport. Please note that the
following prices are subject to change:
Uzbekistan Single entry Group Visa: $30.00 US
This visa must be pre-paid prior to departing Australia, and will be obtained on arrival at the Uzbekistan
airport. IMPORTANT: if you are not departing Uzbekistan on the group flights (or taking the Ferghana
Valley Post-tour Extension), you may need to apply for an ‘Individual Visa’, instead of the ‘Group Visa’ as
indicated above. The current cost for a ‘Single-Entry Individual Visa’ is $80.00 US.
Practical Information
Tour members will receive prior to departure practical notes which include information on visa
requirements, health, photography, weather, clothing and what to pack, custom regulations, bank hours,
currency regulations, electrical appliances and food. The Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade website has
advice for travellers see: www.smartraveller.gov.au
Booking Conditions
Make a Reservation
ASA RESERVATION FORM Please complete the ASA RESERVATION APPLICATION and send it to
Australians Studying Abroad together with your deposit of $500.00 per person in cash or cheque (payable
to Australians Studying Abroad). It is important that you read the Terms and Conditions at this stage, and
that you sign the reservation form. If you are booking within 75 days of the tour full payment is required.
Refund of deposit, less $385.00 service fee ($350.00 + $35.00 GST) per person, will be given when
cancellation is made before Friday 30 May 2014. Your deposit is non-refundable after this date. For further
Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities
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cancellation conditions please refer to the section entitled 'TERMS & CONDITIONS.
Travel Insurance
It is a condition of travel that you are covered by some form of international travel insurance. Note,
travel insurance may not cover costs incurred due to a pre-existing illness or other conditions. Your
insurance can be arranged through ASA. All participants must provide no later than 75 days prior to
the commencement of the program:
a copy of your travel insurance certificate
the emergency telephone no. of your insurance company
Passport Details
All participants must provide no later than 75 days prior to the commencement of the program a photocopy
of the front page of their current passport.
Single Supplement
Payment of the single supplement will ensure accommodation in a single room throughout the tour. The
number of single rooms available is extremely limited. People wishing to take this supplement are therefore
advised to book well in advance.
Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities
November 2016
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ASA Reservation Form
Please complete one form in block letters and sign, for each participant. Additional copies may be requested from ASA or this form may be photocopied
(both sides please). Parental signature is required for participants under 18 years of age. Please mail this form with the appropriate deposit (cheques should be
made payable to Australians Studying Abroad P/L) to: P.O. Box 8285, ARMADALE, VICTORIA, 3143. On receipt of this reservation form and deposit, ASA
will process your booking and send you tour confirmation.
Tour Name
Air Arrangements
Please circle your preference:
A. I wish ASA to book my airfare using the designated flight from Australia to connect with the arrival group transfer.
B.
I wish ASA to book my airfare, however they will be independent of the group travel arrangements.
I wish to depart from (city in Australia)
on (date)
The following is an indication of the itinerary I wish to follow (eg-Melbourne to Amsterdam for 5 days then to Paris for 4 days, then to join the tour
starting in Rome). Your ASA travel consultant will be in contact with you to discuss your options.
C. I will be arranging my air fare independently and taking the Land Content Only option.
Tour Accommodation
Please book the following accommodation: (Circle your preference)
A.
As included in the basic tour price.
Please indicate your preference: [
] Twin-bedded room
or
[
] Double room**
** Many hotels do not provide double-bedded rooms, in this case you will be confirmed in a twin-bedded room.
I wish to share with:
Note: Twin-share accommodation for participants travelling without a companion can usually be arranged provided adequate notice is given to ASA. In the event that this is not possible,
payment of the single supplement will be required.
B.
In single room accommodation.
(Supp. $
)
ADDITIONAL ARRANGEMENTS
Should you require additional travel arrangements, such as rail, accommodation, hire car or tours, please contact your ASA consultant.
Correspondence
The fastest way for ASA to correspond with you about your travel plans is by email. Please indicate your preferred method of receiving correspondence from ASA
[
] Postal Mail
[
] Email Address (please print clearly): ______________________________________________________
HOW DID YOU FIND OUT ABOUT ASA ?
Would you kindly circle from where you first heard about ASA and the tour you are booking on:
•
ASA Mailing List
•
Friend/word of mouth
•
Kenneth W. Park
•
Susannah Fullerton
•
Sabrina Hahn
•
John Patrick
•
Richard Heathcote/Carrick Hill
Other
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Stephen Crafti
•
Look Magazine
•
NGV Magazine
•
Gardening Australia Magazine
•
Open Gardening Scheme
ABC Radio
Friends of the Royal Botanic Gardens,
UWA Extension
University Department
National Trust Magazine
La Trobe University Alumni. Member No.___________
Melbourne
ASA Reservation Form
APPLICANT DETAILS ** WARNING: All travel documents must be issued with your correct passport name!**
TITLE ❑ Mr ❑ Mrs ❑ Ms ❑ Miss ❑ Dr ❑ Other
FIRST NAME (as in passport)
Preferred FIRST NAME
MIDDLE NAME (as in passport)
SURNAME (as in passport)
POSTAL ADDRESS
STATE
POSTCODE
TEL. (AH) (
)
TEL. (BH) (
)
Mobile Tel:
Date of birth:
FAX (
)
E-MAIL address
GENDER Male ❑ Female ❑
Smoker ❑ Non-Smoker ❑
It is important that all information regarding dietary requests is correct. Please complete the following carefully:
Airline meals: ❑ Standard ❑ Vegetarian (incl. eggs & dairy) ❑ Vegetarian (no eggs or dairy) ❑ Other (specify)
Meals during the tour:
Please tick (¸) if you require a standard meal on tour - no special dietary requirements:
Please tick (¸) if you CAN NOT eat any of the following:
❑fish
❑ Standard tour meals
❑poultry
❑red meat
❑dairy product s ❑eggs
❑pork
Please specify if you have any further dietary requirements or food allergies:
Frequent Flyer Membership # (if taking group airfare):
Name of Airline
Airline Seat preference (please note request only):
PASSPORT DETAILS
Increased world security requires that your travel documents and all in-country local reservations exactly match your passport name. It is therefore essential
that if you have a current passport with at least 6 months validity from date of return into Australia a photocopy of the first page is sent to ASA with this
reservation form. Please tick the applicable box below:
I have enclosed a copy of my current valid passport
please tick (¸)
I have travelled with ASA since January 2008 and ASA should have a copy of my current passport on file
please tick (¸)
My passport is not current or does not have at least 6 months validity from date of return into Australia
please tick (¸) **
I am applying for a new passport and will forward a copy to ASA as soon as I have received my new passport
please tick (¸) **
** If a copy of your passport is not enclosed, please advise your Nationality:
MEDICAL CONDITIONS
ASA’s tours require, on occasion, a substantial amount of physical exertion. The purpose of seeking this information is to assist ASA in determining the suitability of a tour participant for a particular
tour, and to address how ASA may be able to make ‘reasonable accommodation’ to cater for those tour participants, where only a minor modification may be needed. The information will be treated
in the strictest confidence. If ASA has any concerns based on the information provided by you, it will contact you to discuss those concerns and may request further information or clarification of the
information previously provided.
Please outline whether you suffer from any medical conditions in any of the following areas:
Respiratory
Spinal
Cardiac, including Blood Pressure
Allergies
Sight/Sound
Mobility
Any other condition which may affect your ability to participate on this tour?
Person to notify in case of emergency
Name
Relationship to Traveller
Address
Telephone
If any details requested on this form are not yet available, please still forward your form and communicate these details at a later date.
I have enclosed a deposit of $
for this tour.
I understand that this deposit is subject to the cancellation fees as outlined in the BOOKING CONDITIONS section of the tour itinerary.
LIABILITY RELEASE: Please read carefully and sign the following:
I have read the itinerary and related information pertaining to this tour of which I am a participant that has been designed and conducted by Australians Studying Abroad Pty Ltd. I am aware
of the terms and conditions of the tour relating to refunds and cancellations, responsibility and liability. I understand that there are inherent dangers and risks that may occur with this tour, known
or unknown, relating to but not limited to air, coach, car and ship travel, walks, camera equipment, accidents and/or illnesses and acts of nature, man or God.
I also understand that the itinerary, accommodation and guest lecturers scheduled for this tour may change due to unforeseen circumstances such as illness, political considerations or personal
emergencies.
In consideration of the right to participate in this tour, I hereby release Australians Studying Abroad Pty Ltd and its agents, associates or related parties from all responsibility for damages,
injuries, losses or delays due to any reason whatsoever and hereby assume all risks and dangers in connection with the tour.
Date
Signature(s)
DIRECT DEPOSIT OR CREDIT CARD PAYMENT OPTION
Mail or Email Payment Advice / Credit Card Authorisation to ASA
CREDIT CARD PAYMENT
DIRECT DEPOSIT
Should you wish to pay ASA by any of the
following credit cards the following fees will
apply:
ASA offers you a direct payment or internet banking
payment option. This allows you to transfer your
payment directly from your bank account to our
bank account. Please follow the procedures below:
Mastercard and American Express
Visa and Bank Card (Australia only)
Diners Club
1.95%
1.95%
2.70%
Please debit my
Mastercard
American Express
Visa
Bankcard (Australia only)
Diners Club
Authority to debit my Credit Card
for the amount due plus the applicable credit card fee.
NAME OF ASA TOUR OR COURSE
Credit Card Number
1. You will need to provide your bank with
ASA’s bank details (see below) and the
exact amount you wish to transfer.
2. Your bank will ask you for a reference number.
Please quote your last name or your mobile
phone number as the reference number.
3. Your bank will provide you with a
confirmation number which you need to
include below.
4. Once your transfer has been actioned
please complete the following and fax or
email this document back to ASA.
5. If you wish to go directly into any ANZ bank
to direct deposit your payment into our
bank account you will still be asked the
following details. Please then complete the
information below and forward to ASA
immediately.
6. Any fees levied by the banks are at your
expense.
Expiry Date
Australians Studying Abroad bank details
Security code on back of card
Bank
Branch
Bank the card is linked to: eg – NAB or ANZ
Type of Credit Card: eg Gold, Platinum etc
Swift Code
BSB
Account No
Amount including cc fee $
Cardholders Name
ANZ
420 St Kilda Road,
Melbourne Vic
ANZBAU3M
013-423
3472-32759
NAME OF ASA TOUR OR COURSE
Travellers Name
Card Holders Billing Address
Address
City
State
Postcode
Country
Phone
Email
Card Holders Signature
Amount Transferred
$
Bank Confirmation No.
Reference you used
Mobile or last name
recommended
Date Money Transferred
/
Travellers Signature
Date
Date
/
/
/
/
/
CONDITIONS OF CREDIT CARD PAYMENT
Monies Paid to Australians Studying Abroad P/L
It is a condition of the acceptance of any booking
that all monies paid to Australians Studying
Abroad (ASA) may be dispersed by ASA as and
when it sees fit for or in respect of the services to
be provided or fees payable to suppliers or
carriers, and the payment of a deposit or charge
card authorization for travel or related fees shall
be deemed to be a direction by the client to ASA
to disburse such monies as aforesaid.
Prices and Exchange Rate
Price justifications for travel are expressed in
Australian Dollars and are based on foreign
currency exchange rates, tariffs, taxes and fares
valid at time of quoting. These are subject to
alteration if there are fluctuations in rates of
exchange, tariffs, taxes or fares, or for other
cause, at any time.
Variations Of Conditions
ASA reserves the right to vary these Signatureon-File Conditions at any time, but no such
variation shall be binding unless made or
confirmed in writing.
Responsibility Clause
ASA acts as agent for the supplier or service
provider in booking or arranging all transport,
sightseeing, hotel accommodation and other
travel-related services.
ASA does not own,
manage, control or operate any supplier of
services. All coupons, receipts and tickets are
issued subject to the terms and conditions
specified by the suppliers.
By accepting the
coupons and tickets and utilizing their services,
you agree that neither ASA nor any of its
subsidiary companies or representatives shall be
liable for any loss, injury or damages to you or
your belongings or otherwise in connection with
any accommodation, transport or other services
or resulting directly or indirectly from occurrences
beyond its control, including breakdown in
equipment, strikes, theft, delay or cancellation or
change in itinerary or schedule, etc. Also
remember that travel documents, if necessary,
and compliance with customs regulations, if
applicable, are your responsibility.
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Refunds
Unused documents for which refund is sought must
be returned to ASA. Refunds are subject to airline
and other operator terms and conditions as well as
outgoings incurred by ASA. Because of procedures
these can sometimes take a minimum of 10 weeks
to be processed.
General Information
This authorisation is valid until your credit card
changes (ie: replaced due to lost/stolen card),
expires or is revoked in accordance with the Card
Account Agreement. We shall require you to sign a
fresh authorization if the card number as changed
due to replacement, if it has expired or if you have
revoked this authorization in writing, but then
subsequently decide to use the Signature-on-File
facility. If the credit card issued to you is cancelled
or authorization for the card is refused, you will
pay ASA any amounts outstanding for travel
services.
These terms and conditions in no way change or
affect your responsibility and obligations as defined
in the Card Account Agreement issued to you. In
the event any provision conflicts with a provision of
the Card Account Agreement, the Card Account
Agreement shall prevail.
Privacy of Information
Your personal details are safeguarded by privacy
law. ASA collects personal information from you in
order to organise your travel arrangements. We
may:
Share the information with companies related to ASA.
Disclose the information to various third parties
in the course of providing services to you or as
may be required by law or use the information for
other purposes where you consent to this. You can
upon request see your personal information which
we hold by contacting us. We would welcome any
feedback from you to correct any inaccuracies. You
can also access a detailed statement of ASA’s
privacy policies on its web-site at (web site details)
or obtain further information relating to ASA
privacy policies by contacting us.
Responsibility Clause
You have the option of not providing certain of the
information requested by ASA.
However, you
should note that this may prevent ASA from
offering all of its services to you.