CRETE
Spectacular Flowers & Wildlife
7 – 14 April 2015
TOUR REPORT
Leaders: Liz Charter & Tim Earl
Local guide: Stella (at Lyknos)
Highlights
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Snow round our feet as we ate our picnics at Samaria Gorge.
The Robert’s giant orchids at Armeni late-Minoan burial site. Indeed, all the many orchid species,
sub-species and hybrids seen on the tour were much enjoyed.
Sipping our first Cretan orange juice at Kournas lake-side while watching grebes.
Sheets of sand crocus at the Omalos pond.
Seeing booted eagle circling over us above Agia Lake.
Griffin vultures soaring over us at Selinari Gorge.
The big patch of Cretan tulips on Spili bump.
The little grebe and chick at Georgeopolis lake.
The seemingly never-ending taverna meal in Chania.
Dodging the gale by lying on our backs looking up at the cliffs in the Kourtaliotiko Gorge.
This was my 100th group tour for the Travelling Naturalist and marked Liz’s 10th year since her first
Travelling Naturalist tour to Crete. It was outstanding as we enjoyed great birds and flowers, plus the
celebrations of a Greek Orthodox Easter.
The weather was not altogether in our favour but careful choice of sites each day enabled us to make the
most of the conditions as the species lists below will testify. We spent the cool days down at the coast and
saved high altitude sites for later in the tour when the weather perked up.
Tuesday 7 April
To Crete, Lake Kournas and Agia Marina Overcast
Some sun, cool northerly breeze, 16°C
We set off for our hotel in Agia Marina after an uneventful flight and lunch at Heraklion Airport. A few
hooded crows and collared doves were seen along the roadside but there was more excitement in spotting
the occasional buzzard and one short-toed eagle. Alpine swifts and a lone white wagtail were seen at a stop
for fuel.
We broke the journey for freshly squeezed orange juice at a taverna on Lake Kournas which gave the
opportunity to watch little grebes and listen to birds on the hillside behind. A single black-necked grebe was
a surprise – they overwinter in Crete – and we had good views of Sardinian warblers, normally skulking
critters. Singing cetti’s warblers were elusive as ever and attempts to find nightingales came to naught.
Fringed rue (Ruta chalapensis) was a pungent but beautiful plant of the roadside here.
We enjoyed our fist supper together and a delicious bottle of red Greek wine before a briefing on the next
day’s activities.
Wednesday 8 April
Agia Lake, Tavronitis river, Kolimbari shore / harbour, Afrata village and Gorge
Cool and overcast, a few showers getting heavier, light breeze, 12°C
Our first full day in Crete was a cracker with excellent birds seen and ‘swarms’ of orchids among many
other beautiful plants. We started early with a drive to nearby Agia Lake. Bits of fluff were seen dropping
from old bulrush seed-heads the moment we arrived. Three penduline tits were the culprits, applying
themselves to the task of ripping them to bits while we had great views. Our attention was diverted by a
small bird creeping through the reeds. It was a little crake, the first of about four seen along the dam wall
which created Agia Lake. Swallows and swifts were swooping low over the water but it was some time
before I could identify some as pallid swifts.
A couple of squacco herons, several singing sedge warblers and a stunning male whinchat were found close
by before we could even set off from our starting point. And as we looked back an immature glossy ibis
flew in.
The birds kept coming as we explored the area but flowering plants were good too with a ‘swarm’ of
tongued orchids (Serapias ), a few loose-flowered orchids (Anacamptis laxiflora), blue houndstongue
(Cynoglossum creticum) and corky-fruited water-dropwort (Oenanthe pimpinelloides) among many others.
Two quartering marsh harriers were seen (both females, one immature) while searching the sky revealed a
passing Bonelli’s eagle which was joined by a booted eagle. A coffee stop overlooking the lake gave us
delicious and well earned ‘elevenses’ (at noon) with tree sparrows and whinchats in the gardens below.
Stopping at the Tavronitis river paid dividends with good views of common sandpiper and little ringed
plovers but it was the feeding activity of hirundines which produced the most interesting observation.
(Barn) swallows, sand and house martins were feeding by skimming the river while a good eight meters
above them red-rumped swallows were getting their grub. They never came lower while the others did not
ascend.
A violent storm had sent mounds of shingle and rubble over the coast road to Kolimbari. We diverted
inland and stopped immediately at a tiny flood-pond where a wood sandpiper was feeding at the edge
along with several yellow wagtails of the Turkish race (Motacilla flava feldegg). We watched them for a
little while when suddenly they were joined briefly by two Temminck’s stints. A purple heron objected to
our presence and flew a short way to another field to be followed by three crested larks which whistled to
confirm their identity. The botanical gem here was the asparagus pea (Lotus tetragonolobus), a red
flowered legume sometimes eaten as a vegetable.
Lunch at Kolimbari harbour was a cool affair as the weather had deteriorated slightly but we still saw a pair
of short-toed snake eagles over the escarpment behind us and heard several Sardinian warblers singing in
the maquis scrub.
Our last outing was in Afrata gorge where we were thrilled to see a few pied flycatchers, a couple of blue
tits and a pair of noisy kestrels. Our main quarry was blue rock thrush which we eventually found singing
low down in the gorge. It was seen well, singing on a ledge to start with but flew across and into a bush on
our side of the gorge where we watched it with some delight. By the tiny cave chapel grew endemic pants,
Cretan yarrow (Achillea cretica) and the Cretan mullein (Verbascum arcturus).
Rain started as we walked back up the hill to Afrata where the bus was parked. The owner of a tiny taverna
waved us in to rest and drink herb tea (made from dried sage, thyme and other ingredients gathered on the
local hills) in front of an open log fire… bliss!
It was raining heavily by the time we returned to the hotel, and we enjoyed another good dinner. We
retired to bed with some trepidation as the weather forecast for the next day was dreadful: storms and rain
all day. Indeed, some of us woke at 4am to thunder and at 6am there was torrential rain.
Thursday 9 April
Charnia, British and Commonwealth War Cemetary, Moronis river-mouth biotope.
Stormy, heavy showers, cold wind, 9°C
The weather forecast was not quite right and thanks to Liz’s planning we enjoyed a reasonable day. We
went to Chania in the morning, dodging showers which fell on us and waves that washed over the harbour
wall and around our feet!
Liz showed us around the town, particularly through narrow back streets she knew where 15th and 16th
century Venetian and Turkish architecture could be seen and an old street light cowl which had goat shapes
cut out of it. I pointed out a few pallid swifts which were investigating nest sites around the ancient
harbour buildings while Liz showed the group plants growing on their walls! These included the endemic
Cretan wall lettuce (Petromarula pinnata), a little Malcolmia (Malcolmia maritima) and flowering ivy-leaved
toadflax (Cymbalaria muralis).
We had coffee and arranged to meet at the old mosque on the harbour-side. While the group went in for a
bit of essential shopping Liz and I sorted out a ‘typical’ Greek lunch in a waterfront tavern. This was a
celebratory meal of fantastic proportions, an extremely happy event staged around delicious and copious
amounts of seafood and local vegetables, topped off with several yummy desserts. It was clear that we
would need a good walk in the afternoon.
Sadly, it was not to be…..The storm worsened and rain began to fall during the meal and we set off for a
walk at Souda Bay in heavy drizzle. It stopped as we reached the British and Commonwealth War Cemetery
where we searched successfully for the grave of eminent Greek archaeologist John Pendlebury, a World
War II hero who was shot by firing squad on 21 May, 1941. He had been active in the Cretan resistance and
was, sadly, wearing local clothing when captured by the Germans (so not protected by the conventions of
war). I pointed out seven whinchats feeding around the cemetery and perched on the grave-stones (many
of which were marked ‘known only to God’) while Liz found another swarm of tongue orchids (Serapias
spp). But the rain started as a black cloud came over and we retired to the bus to drive down to the
Moronis river-mouth.
A short wait saw the rain ease and we braved the cold wind to look for birds: seven common sandpipers, a
lone wood sandpiper and a little egret. A beautiful crown daisy (Chrysanthemum coronarium) was admired
and photographed. I heard a singing great reed warbler but the gale and cold left it with little enthusiasm
and we resolved to pay another visit in better conditions.
We returned to the hotel for an early supper and warm showers, happy with a day which could have been a
wash-out. We hoped for better weather in the morning.
Friday 10 April (Good Friday in the Greek Orthodox Church)
Moronis river-mouth, Chania airport, Akrotiri Peninsular, Botanical Park, Agia Lake X2
Strong wind, cold, heavy cloud, 10°C
We had a great day for birds and flowers despite a strong wind, low temperatures and cloud. Stopping at
Moronis river-mouth again paid great dividends with a singing serin, male pied flycatcher and a whinchat to
welcome us.
A snoozing curlew sandpiper added spice to the mix. The curlew sandpiper had a pink flush as it was
entering its breeding plumage. Clearly tired, it was roosting with downturned beak tucked into its plumage.
The bird snoozed for a while before becoming hungry, or did the wood sandpiper disturb it? They were
joined by a greenshank and a common sandpiper (one of several around the area) and all started feeding.
The curlew sandpiper seemed the most successful getting at least four worms from the mud as we
watched. Least successful seemed to be a little egret which chased small fish wildly in the shallows without
seeming to get one. It was more successful later after calming down a little.
Our aim was to listen for great reed warbler and as we set off towards its great reed bed a kingfisher shot
past us going down-river. It brought us luck when the great reed warbler opened up its voice box and sang
as it moved slowly around the area never showing itself. We returned to the bus well pleased with our
efforts and in time to see three more wood sandpipers along the river bank.
Our next planned stop was Chania airport for a comfort break which was followed by an unplanned visit to
some likely wild cistus scrub (phrygana habitat) which was stunning with spring flowers. These included two
species of cistus (C. salvifolius and C. parviflorus), tassel hyacinth (Muscari comosum), prolific pink
(Kohlrauschia velutina) tongue orchids (Serapias sp) and many more.
Driving on to the Akrotiri peninsula, we stopped to admire a female kestrel perched on grape vines. Tom
noticed a black and white bird nearby which was identified as a male black-eared wheatear. It was palethroated and of the central European race O. h. melanoleuca. Instead of flying off it flew towards us and
perched in a pile if sticks giving wonderful views. Liz called for another bird just as we were about to drive
off: it turned out to be a male collared flycatcher which was keeping company with a female. While trying
to get good views of them a serin was found and a nightingale gave a half-hearted snatch of song.
When we stopped to photograph the huge red flowers of dragon arum (Dracunculus vugaris) we heard
chukar partridges calling, distracting us from a walk back to see the plants. John found a chukar in rocks
close by and a couple more were seen soon afterwards. Jane made one of the discoveries of the day by the
time the birds had disappeared: a spike of yellow bee-orchid (Ophrys lutea). Liz found pheasant eye (Adonis
microcarpa) a rare arable weed in the UK, and discovered that her automatic camera ’saw’ it as an eye and
focused accordingly (to her delight)!
We eventually wandered back to the dragon arums which were spectacular in size, colour and position,
growing at the base of gnarled olive trees which must have been hundreds of years old.
Our adventures made time speed up and it was 11.55am when we arrived at the Gouvernetou Monastery
which sadly closed its doors at noon! No matter. It was in a wind-swept spot and the monks must have
been chilled. We drove back to the sunny warm courtyard of Agia Triada Monastery, with a stop on the way
to look for serins which resulted in great views of a couple of hobbies. The monastery was beautiful, both in
the well kept inner gardens and chapel which was ornate and dominated by a fresco of Christ looking down
on us from a domed ceiling. Whinchats were common in the surrounding vineyards and a few Italian
sparrows were hopping around the buildings.
Lunch was eaten at the side of a path into the Cretan Botanical Gardens. They were surrounded by wild
tree heather (Erica arborea) and strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo).
Our last stop of the day was back at Agia lake which was teeming with barn and red-rumped swallows,
house martins and a few common swifts. A blue-headed yellow wagtail (of the central European race M. f.
flava) was most obliging hopping about on the side of the lake while we approached with ease to study it. A
large flock of bathing yellow-legged gulls suddenly rose into the air and I urged people to look for the cause.
Sure enough, a pale-phased booted eagle drifted over our heads, further dispersing the gulls, circled and
returned giving us super views.
A search for calling scops owls took us back to the lake after supper but we heard none, nor were singing
nightingales found. Gaps in clouds did allow us to do a little star-gazing with Jupiter, Venus, Orion, the
Pleiades (Seven Sisters) and Plough all seen well. The Orion Nebula stood out as a spectacular highlight.
Saturday 11 April
Armeni Minoan tombs, Kali Sikia Road, Kotsiphos Gorge, Kourtaliotiko Gorge, Spili plateau
Cloud clearing, gale force wind, sunny, warmer, 13°C, 16°C out of the wind
At last the weather improved and we were able to head up into Crete’s beautiful, mountainous hinterland,
crossing the island to get views of its south coast. It was a flower-orientated day with wild orchids
dominating. We did see collared flycatcher, our first griffon vultures and red-billed choughs but all were
quite distant views.
However, the orchid bonanza began at the spectacular late-Minoan tombs at Armeni. The tombs were
fascinating, carved out of sandstone with entrances well below ground level and steps roughly hewn down
into them. Many had sealing-stones rolled away from the entrance presenting a sight most appropriate for
Easter. The largest could be walked into and was illuminated inside. Besides the architecture of the tomb
we also found several ‘cave crickets’, a millipede and a chiton. Long Cretan door snails were found along
the entrances to many of the tombs.
But it was the sight of hundreds of orchids under vallonia oak (Quercus macrolepis – the one with the frilly
acorn cups) woodland which proved the most interesting feature of the area. We found Robert’s giant
orchid (Balia robertiana), sawfly orchid (Ophrys tenthredinifera) even before we arrived at the entrance
gate. The sheer numbers of naked man (or Italian) orchids (Orchis italica) were impressive. They included
one which was extremely dark. Yellow bee (Ophrys lutea) and woodcock (Ophrys scolopax) were also seen.
Other notable plants included beautiful Heldreich’s (Anemone heldreichii) and crown anemones (A.
coronaria), smart-looking friar’s cowl (Ariseama vulgare) and golden drops (Onosma graeca).
Our comfort stop was rather speeded up as we had given extra time at the tombs, so good was the show of
orchids. The Pyrgos Taverna is well known among birding groups and we met another tour there over
coffee. More importantly, we spotted our first griffon vultures above a distant escarpment and wondered
how they coped in the gale force winds which included some mighty gusts. It was sad to see a vase full of
naked man, monkey and Robert’s giant orchid flowers which had not only been picked but were being
poured over approvingly by visiting botanists!
Driving on up into the mountains we stopped at a bridge on the Kali Sikia road where more orchids were
found, including few-flowered (Orchis provincialis ssp pauciflora), man (Acerus anthropomorphus) and
Cretan bee (Ophrys cretica). Cretan cyclamen (Cyclamen creticum) was also in flower.
Plans to walk the Kotsiphos gorge had to be dropped due to high winds funnelling through it and the risk of
falling stones (many were littering the road surface). Instead we found a goat path which led to a sheltered
area where we enjoyed our picnic lunches (prepared by ourselves each day from the vast breakfast buffet)
in the company of blue rock thrushes, linnets and goldfinches. Another griffon was seen flying along a
distant ridge. Yellow asphodels (Asphodeline lutea) were in bright flower and profusion.
The wind was beaten by us at the Kourtaliotiko Gorge where we were able to shelter behind a stone wall in
a picnic area, lie on our backs and watch the tops of towering cliffs. This gave poor views of at least two
red-billed choughs and a few griffons. It must be said that our experiences in the two gorges were
disappointing, at least for we leaders, but the group’s safety had to come first.
Our last stops were at several sites on the Spili plateau, a well-known area for outstanding botany. Three
days relentless gales had burnt many of the flowers, at least on the exposed slopes, but where shelter
could be had there were wonderful specimens to be admired and photographed. Highlight species included
abundant numbers of milky orchids (Orchis lactea), the diminutive mirror (Ophrys omegaifera), Bory’s
(Orchis boryi), few-flowered (Orchis provincialis) and sawfly orchids (Ophrys tenthredinifera). One toothed
orchid (Orchis tridentata) was seen and photographed. A small group of bumblebee orchids (Ophrys
bombyliflora) and a bishops’s bee (Ophrys episcopalis) were also seen. There were occasional bushes of
Daphne sericea and a big clump of rather wind-blown Cretan tulips (Tulipa cretica).
One stop overlooked the spectacular and greatly snow-capped Mount Ida but hoped-for Fritillaria
messanensis flowers were still only in bud as were Tulipa doerfleri. Another griffon went past and the feint
song of woodlark was heard above the gale.
It was with reluctance that we dragged ourselves away and headed back to the hotel, arriving at 6.45pm, a
little later than usual. Yet another excellent meal was enjoyed, made the better by fabulous memories and
great photographs of some of the most spectacular flowers to be seen in the Mediterranean basin.
Sunday 12 April
Agia lake, Ormalos plateau, Samaria gorge, Agia Irini gorge
Clear, sunny, little wind, pleasantly warmer, 19°C, 6cm of snow at Samaria gorge
At last! The day dawned clear, sunny with no wind and we had set the high pass at Samaria gorge as our
target for a picnic lunch. We were in for a surprise…
It seemed churlish not to call in at our favourite Agia Lake but there was nothing new to be seen and most
of the ‘goodies’ were absent. A few sedge warblers were still singing around the pond, there were masses
of hirundines and a Balkan terrapin was pretending to be a submarine periscope in the middle of the lake.
We drove on upwards, ever upwards stopping occasionally to take in the increasingly stunning view and see
what birds were around. A (northern) wheatear was singing at one road-side spot, listened to by a chukar
which was perched on a rock a few meters above the road posing for pictures. Three griffon vultures
wheeled around gaining height before slipping past us giving wonderful views. Tempted by the chance that
they could be followed by a bearded vulture (lammergeier) we lingered listening to the songs of wheatear,
woodlark and jay (more like raucous calls… Ed!).
The desire for comfort and coffee took us onwards towards the Gigalo café on the Omalos plateau, except
that we stopped to photograph cute goat kids and found a hot-spot for birds. (Northern) wheatears were
the first spotted chasing each other around in territorial disputes. There were a few males involved in the
sparring indicating that they are common breeders on the plateau. That was reinforced by the sighting of
many spread over the plateau later.
A cirl bunting flew across the road, posed for a short while and then took part in territorial chasing which
was reinforced by a long spell of singing (having seen off the competition). A few crag martins seemed to be
interested in a huge cave which could have hosted their nest-sites.
The café was close by and we finally left the birds to it. Coffee, mountain tea and hot chocolate ordered, we
set too looking for the authors of songs: firstly a wryneck which could not be located but the search for
which led Liz to a couple of flowering sand crocuses (Romulea bulbocodium). The second singers were
woodlarks which flew in close to us but then hid behind low scrubby bushes. Glimpses were obtained
through the telescope, however. This activity was carried out to the delicious smells of a lamb being
barbequed for the Greek Easter lunch. It looked macabre but the smell was mouth-watering.
A corn bunting jangled away long enough for me to find it but then flew away once the telescope was
trained on it. We did see a few ‘Italian’ sparrows and at least three buzzards before leaving.
Stopping for a huge sheep flock to cross the road, a field full of Cretan tulips (Tulipa saxatilis ssp bakeri)
was found by Liz so we piled out for a look. They were only in bud and many had been flattened by recent
snow, some of which still lingered. I found a pair of woodchat shrikes which behaved well enough for
everyone to get a look through the ‘scope’. Another wryneck was calling close by but diligent searching
failed to find that one either.
We drove onwards and upwards arriving at the Samaria Gorge visitors’ centre to find the whole area under
six centimetres of snow but in bright, warm sun. This produced some weird photo opportunities as I was
dressed in shorts and sandals! A few red-billed choughs passed overhead making their distinctive calls as
were several ravens which were in the area. Crag martins were swooping around and Sardinian warblers
sang surrounded by snow! It was an amazing experience. The view down the gorge was stunning and we
posed with snow up to our ankles and a white backdrop on the mountains behind.
Exploring the Omalos plateau further after our snow-picnic Liz took us to fields which should have been
blue with flowering anemones (Anemone coronaria). But they were covered with snow instead with only
isolated snowless patches had the flowers in bloom. The Cretan barberry (Berberis cretica) was not yet in
leaf and the wild pink tulip (Tulipa saxatilis ssp bakeri) was in bud. A few Cretan tulips were seen in bud but
they too were late this year. A few flowering green and black widow irises (Hermodactylus tuberosus) were
found poking out of the snow, a real highlight.
An area with ponds was interesting for the sheets of sand crocuses (Romulea bulbocodium) in flower, a
superb sight. One pond had ten wood sandpipers standing around it with another six nearby. (Northern)
wheatears were numerous, a female common redstart was seen and two woodlarks picked around on the
ground near us long enough for everyone who wanted to get a picture.
We dropped down the south slope from the plateau to visit Agia Irini gorge but it was quiet for birds.
Cretan alexanders (Smyrnium creticum) and Cretan cyclamen were interesting and the little blue-flowered
spring rockcress (Arabis verna) quite charming. The speciality of the gorge is a chasmophyte – tree flax
(Linum arboretum) and its bright yellow blooms were found high up on a cliff.
We returned to the hotel in time for a shower before another delicious meal and the call-over which
covered two days.
Monday 13 April
Georgioupolis lake, Petres river-mouth, Knossos archaeological site, Aposelemis marsh.
Clear, sunny, little wind, warm, 22°C
Travelling days are rarely good for watching wildlife but today was a pleasant exception. In addition, we
visited the fascinating Minoan site at Knossos where archaeology was combined with birds, flowers (a little
campanula) and reptiles seen.
Our first stop on the long drive to Knossos was at Georgioupolis lake, a beautiful spot just off the national
highway, fed by cold clear springs and fringed with water-plants, brambles and rushes. Among the birds
seen was a little grebe which had a tiny chick following it and a much larger youngster (from an earlier
brood?) nearby. There were many coots and a sedge warbler was blogging around in rushes and a pile of
sticks.
Coffee and comfort were taken nearby at a super little port (Georgioupolis) where we watched local
fishermen selling the day’s catch many of which were still alive. Among them were John Dory, wrasse,
grouper, red mullet and a weird lobster none of us had seen before (Slipper Lobster?).
A few minutes after setting off we stopped at Petres river-mouth which had a steep gorge behind it. A
flowering mandrake attracted much attention as its scientific name is Mandragora officinalis. Jackdaws,
one griffon and kestrel were seen up the gorge while common sandpiper and little egret were in the river
mouth.
Knossos was the subject of a briefing by Liz as we drove along the national highway, preparing us for the
visit to these rather enigmatic ruins. All explanations on boards around the site had the codicil “according
to Evans,” references to Sir Arthur Evans who excavated the site and postulated the uses its constituent
parts and rooms were put to. There seemed to be considerable scope for conjecture!
Three hoopoes were seen as we entered or within the site (there is definitely a sub-species of this bird
called H. epops ssp archaeologicalii) a pair of collared flycatchers were seen in its fringing pines and a
cuckoo put in a very brief appearance. Two species of reptile were seen: a smooth shiny oscellated skink
and a rough, spiny green lizard which turned out to be Kotschy’s gecko. Growing on the ruins was a tiny
bellflower (Campanula erinus).
Wildlife highlight of the day was a walk down to Aposelemis marsh after we had checked in to our hotel
nearby (our rooms overlooked the marsh but hedging trees had grown considerably since Liz’s last tour). A
small trawler was passing as we left the hotel trailing a line of following yellow-legged gulls. A few Cory’s
shearwaters were seen among them to our delight. Along the upper shore we identified three-horned stock
(Matthiola tricuspidata).
A roosting tern seen at first through heat-haze on the beach turned out (geddit?) to be gull-billed. We could
clearly see the stubby all-black bill and smooth black cap which ran down its neck. It eventually flew over us
giving great views. It re-terned ! a few minutes later carrying a crab, ate it and settled in a puddle to digest
the meal.
The salt-marsh has lots of pools which normally hold good numbers of waders but we could find only a few
common sandpipers until a group containing little ringed plover, wood and curlew sandpipers was found.
We flushed a large brown wader with black and white flecked wings – a stone curlew, always a good
species to find. It proceeded to do a circuit around us before heading off to disappear in stony ground on
the other side of the Aposelemis river. Two grey herons were found as we searched for it unsuccessfully.
Liz was sure that one of the paths led to the river and in her abortive search for the north-west passage she
flushed a little bittern that dropped out of sight at the end of its flight. Seeing it was meant to be. A squacco
heron was much more obliging and we were all able to see its long plumes and ginger-coloured neck. A
common starling (our only one of the trip, a remnant of Crete’s overwintering population) bathing nearby
looked odd until we realised it had no tail! We could only conjecture about the tale it might tell.
Our walk ended at a wire on which another yellow wagtail of the race M. f. feldegg was perched with at
least six whinchats. Liz spotted a curious plant, a large sea lavender (Limoneastrum monopetalum). We
returned to the hotel and a discovery: all our drinks were included in the tariff! It was a short-lived thrill as
only the lager, served in small glasses was worth drinking.
Our final dinner together was a happy occasion despite this and we retired determined to make the most of
the following morning before our return to Gatwick.
Tuesday 14 April
Aposelemis marsh revisited, Selinari gorge, Malia
Clear, sunny, little wind, warm, 22°C
A 6.30 start saw some of us creeping around the marsh following yesterday’s route. We found two or three
short-toed larks, a little stint and marsh sandpiper before heading back to the hotel for a 7.15 breakfast and
swift departure. The reason for this was to arrive at the Selinari gorge in time to see the “griffon vulture
show”. They roost on the surrounding cliffs then take off for their day’s carrion foraging.
Only a few vultures could be seen on arrival but gradually we got our eyes in and started seeing them high
on the rocks. That many were taking off for trial flights was a great help. We had a fantastic time for 45
minutes as birds crossed the gorge, visited nest sites (one even started tearing up grass and dropping it
down a cliff!) and soared up on increasingly strong thermals. They were joined for a while by a female
peregrine which really upset the local hooded crows and pigeon. The male of a pair of blue rock thrushes
was stunning and posed for us on a nearby rocky peak, while kestrels called as they flew around their
nesting territory. Underfoot there were white marjorum (Origanum onites) and another Phlomis (Phlomis
lanata), our last Cretan endemic. Of 1735 plant species, 159 occur on Crete alone and are described as
endemic (marked # below).
We dropped down the old road to walk past the archaeological site at Malia towards a likely-looking reed
bed. Many butterflies were seen in the warm conditions and a hoopoe headed for the site while Sardinian
warblers rattled out their songs. Flowering wild gladioli (Gladiolus italicus) were photographed and Ray was
pinned down by a cat which leaped into his lap when he sat on a rock for a rest. It was a delightful way to
conclude our time in Crete, in air heavy with the aroma of herbs and a backdrop of snow-capped peaks.
We left for the airport in good time, caught our flight which took off punctually and returned home with
memories of short-toed larks, griffons, gladioli and mountains!
ANNOTATED LIST OF SPECIES SEEN
PLANTS
Numbers refer to numbers in Marjory Blamey’s book wildflowers of the Mediterranean. XX– plants not in
Blamey’s book. Those marked # are endemic to Crete, and those marked @ are endemic to Crete,
Karpathos and sometimes other regional islands (Lance Chilton’s Plant List for Crete 2000).
Gymnosperms
Conifers
XX Araucaria heterophylla
Norfolk Island pine
Frequently planted.
1. Pinus halapensis ssp brutia Aleppo pine
On mountains above Omalos.
11 Cupressus sempervirens
Italian cypress
Widespread.
15 Juniperus oxycedrus ssp oxycedrus Prickly juniper On mountain slopes as we approached Omalos
plateau.
Angiosperms
Dicotyledons
24 Quercus coccifera
Kermes oak (evergreen) On the way to Omalos.
28 Quercus macrolepis
Valonia oak
At Armeni.
41 Morus alba White mulberry
Widespread, heavily pruned.
48 Urtica pilulifera
Roman nettle
Seen in Afrata gorge.
78 Rumex bucephalophorus
Red sea dock
Seen on the shore at Aposelemis.
85 Salicornia europea agg
Glasswort
Found in abundance at Souda and Aposelemis.
93 Sueada maritima
annual seablite
Found at Aposelemis.
94 Sueada vera
Shrubby seablite
Found at Aposelemis.
110 Bougainvillea glabra
Bougainvillea
Common in gardens.
115 Caprobrotus edulis
Hottentot fig
Planted and naturalised.
176 Silene gallica
Small-flowered catchfly Frequent on waste ground.
180 Silene colorata
Aposelemis.
187 Kohlrauschia velutina
Proliferous pink
Several places.
211 Anemone coronaria
Crown anemone
Omalos plateau.
215 Anemone hortensis
Armeni and Spili bump.
ssp heldreichii
222 Adonis microcarpa
Pheasant’s eye
On the road up to Gouvernatou monastery.
XX Ranunculus creticus
Cretan gorge buttercup Kali Sikia road gorge in seed.
251 Ranunculus sceleratus
Celery leaved buttercup Common, first seen near Agia lake.
257 Ranunculus asiaticus
turban buttercup
Near Gouvernatou monastery.
239 Ranunculus sardous
Hairy Buttercup
The delicate buttercup by Agia lake.
XX Batrachium Ranunculus sp. Water crowfoot
Omalos pond.
XX Berberis cretica
Cretan barberry
Common on Omalos plateau.
283 Papaver rhoeas
Common poppy
Common on disturbed ground.
293 Glaucium flavum
Yellow-horned poppy Petres river mouth and by national road rr Malia.
303 Fumaria capreolata
Ramping fumitory
Common on disturbed ground.
316 Malcolmia maritima
Virginia stock
On warehouse buildings in Chania.
322 Arabis verna
Spring rockcress
Agia Irini Gorge on rocks
324 Aubrieta deltoidea
Aubrieta
Above Samaria gorge in the snow.
329 Matthiola tricuspidata
Three-horned stock
On the shore at Aposelemis.
341 Biscutella didyma
Buckler mustard
Common.
363 Cakale maritime
Sea rocket
Aposelemis.
XX Sedum creticum var monocarpicum? Rosette stonecrop
Seen in Irini gorge.
400 Platanus orientalis
Plane
Common in valleys among the hills.
411Sarcopoterium spinosum Thorny burnet
Common on dry hillsides.
420 Crataegus monogyna
Hawthorn
Common on Omalos plateau and by Kournas lake.
XX Pyrus spinosa
Wild pear
Afrata and on Omalos plateau.
421 Prunus dulcis
Almond
In gardens.
428 Rubus sanctus
Bramble
Common especially Agia and Kournas.
429 Eriobotrys japonica
Loquat
Planted in gardens.
430 Cercis siliquastrum
Judas tree
Planted by Agia lake.
431 Ceratonia siliqua
Carob, locust tree
Common at Akrotiri.
432 Acacia sp.
Mimosa sp.
Along the national road.
453 Calycotome villosa
Hairy Thorny broom
Common on hillsides.
481 Spartium junceum
Spanish broom
Along the national road.
484 Lupinus pilosus
Hairy lupin
At Souda bay rough area.
508 Bituminaria bituminosa
Pitch trefoil
Very common.
549 Lathyrus annuas
Annual yellow vetch
Occasional.
598 Medicago arborea
Tree medick
Planted at Agia lake.
651 Trifolium uniflorum
One-flowered clover Spili bump.
652 Trifolium fragiferum
Strawberry clover
Near Agia lake.
658 Trifolium tomentosum
Woolly trefoil
At Afrata roadside.
662 Trifolium stellatum
Star clover
Spili.
682 Tetragonolobus purpureus Asparagus (winged) pea By the shore near Kolimbari and at Souda.
691 Anthyllus tetraphylla
On the road up to Gouvernatou.
735 Oxalis pes-caprae
Bermuda buttercup
Very common in single and double forms.
741 Geranium molle
Dovesfoot cranesbill
Near Agia lake dam.
747 Geranium robertianum
Herb robert
Common.
769 Linum arboreum
Tree flax
Seen in Agia Irini gorge.
777 Linum bienne
Pale flax
Seen at Souda bay.
792 Euphorbia dendroides
Tree euphorbia
Common on hillsides eg on the way to Afrata.
794 Euphorbia acanthothamnos Greek Spiny spurge
Spili.
818 Euphorbia characias
Mediterranean spurge Spili
820 Mercurialis annua
Annual mercury
On farmland.
824 Ricinus communis
Castor oil plant
Near the back of Agia lake.
827 Ruta chalapensis
Fringed rue
Kournas lake.
843 Melia azederach
Indian bead tree
Seen in Afrata.
846 Polygala myrtifolia
South African milkwort Agia lake and Galini hotel, planted.
865 Pistachia lentistus
Lentisc (mastic tree)
Agia Gouvernatou monastery road.
898 Malva sylvestris
Common mallow
Very common, first seen at Agia lake.
938 Daphne sericea
Daphne
At Spili and on the way to Omalos.
942 Thymelaea hirsuta
Thymelaea
Petres river mouth roadside.
950 Hypericum empetrifolium Crowberry leaved St Johns wort On the Kali Sikia road.
964 Cistus parviflorus
Small-flowered cistus Akrotiri roadside.
965 Cistus salvifolius
Sage-leaved cistus
Akrotiri roadside and on the way to Omalos.
1032 Ecballium elaterium
Squirting cucumber
Agia lake and Knossos.
1081 Eryngium campestre
Field eryngo
Spili and elsewhere.
1087 Smyrnium olusatrum
Alexanders
Common.
1088 Smyrnium perfoliatum
Perfoliate alexanders Spili.
XX Smyrnium creticum
Celery leaved alexanders
At Agia Irini gorge.
1097 Scandix pecten-veneris Shepherds needle
By Kournas lake.
XX Berula erecta
False water parsnip
In the spring-fed pool at Agia.
1106 Oenanthe pimpineloides Corky-fruited water dropwort Behind Agia lake.
1108 Foeniculum vulgare
Common fennel
Widespread.
1141 Ferula communis
Giant fennel
Roadsides eg Kournas lake.
1149 Tordylium apulum
Tordylium
Common by roadsides eg at Kournas.
1168 Daucus carota
Wild carrot
At Malia on last day.
1176 Arbutus unedo
Strawberry tree
Seen first at Botanical Park and on the way up to
Omalos.
1178 Erica arborea
Tree heather
Seen first at the Botanical Park and on the way up
to Omalos.
1198 Anagallis arvensis var .caerulea Blue pimpernel
Common.
1208 Cyclamen creticum #
Cretan cyclamen
Kali Sikia, Agia Irini and Afrata gorges.
1220 Limonium sinuatum
Winged sea lavender Aposelemis near Europa hotel.
1234 Limoniastrum monopetalum Limoniastrum
One plant at back of Aposelemis marsh.
1238 Styrax officinalis
Storax
Seen by Kournas lake.
1248 Olea europea
Olive
Common, planted.
1256 Nerium oleander
Oleander
Commonly planted especially where the Omalos
road had been widened.
1331 Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved bindweed
Akrotiri.
1365 Onosma graeca
Goldendrop
Armeni and Spili.
1380 Echium italicum
Pale bugloss
Common although not yet flowering.
1382 Echium angustifolium
Red bugloss
Aposelemis, near Europa hotel.
1383 Echium plantagineum
Purple viper's bugloss Common on roadsides.
1395 Borago officinalis
Borage
Common.
1402 Cynoglossum creticum
Blue houndstongue
First seen by the springs at Agia lake.
1409 Anchusa azurea (now italica) Large blue alkanet Along the roadside near Malia palace.
1417 Lantana camara
Lantana
Non-native on waste ground, gardens and
roadsides
1442 Teucrium pollum
Roadside on Akrotiri
1444 Prasium majus
Prasium
Common incl Afrata orge and Kali Sikia road.
1470 Ballota pseudodictamnus Horehound
Afrata
1535 Salvia officinalis
Meadow sage
First seen at Kournas
1455 Phlomis fruticosa
Jerusalem sage
Very common starting at Kournas.
1459 Phlomis lanata #
In Selinari Gorge and At Malia palace.
1518 Origanum onites
White marjoram
In Selinari gorge.
1520 Orignum dictamnus #
Dittany
Planted in Botanical Park.
1528 Lavandula stoechas
French lavender
Seen by Agia lake.
1537 Salvia triloba (fruticosa) Three-leaved sage
Common in thorny scrub, first seen at Kournas.
1574 Mandragora officinarum Mandrake
Petres river mouth
1582 Nicotiana glauca Shrubby tobacco
Common around Iraklion on national road.
Invasive
1586 Scophularia peregrina
Nettle-leaved figwort Common
1587 Scrophularia lucida
Shining figwort
Afrata roadside, Agia lake and other places.
XX Verbascum macrurum
Mullein
Big seed pods seen on the Omalos plateau.
1601 Verbascum sinuatum
Wavy mullein
Common. Seen first at Agia lake. Not in flower
1606 Verbascum arcturus #
Cretan mullein
In flower atAfrata gorge and on buildings Knossos?
1621 Linaria pelisseriana
Jersey toadflax
Akrotiri roadside stop.
1632 Cymbalaria muralis
Ivy leaved toadflax
Seen in Chania on buildings.
1651 Parentucellia viscosa
Yellow bartsia
Souda bay cemetery.
1652 Parentucellia latifolia
Found on the dam at Agia Lake
1655 Orobanche ramosa
Branched Broomrape Common including by Kournas lake.
1675 Orobanche pubescens
Hairy broomrape
Common, including Afrata, parasitic on umbellifers.
1704 Plantago cretica
Cretan plantain
1721 Valeriana asarifolia @
Cretan valerian
1736 Knautia integrifolia
Field scabious
1774 Campanula erinus Annual bellflower
1786 Petromarula pinnata #
Cretan wall-lettuce
1831 Phagnalon graecum
Shaving-brush bush
1847 Pallenis spinosa
Yellow spine thistle
1884 Chamaemelum nobile
Chamomile
Common.
Seen in Kali Sikia gorge at on Spili bump.
Common by roads but few flowering yet.
On ruins of Knossos
Common on old buildings in Chania.
Common.
Common.
Along Kournas roadside.
1870 Anthemis rigida
Rayless chamomile
By the sea wall in Chania and at Aposelemis.
1881 Achillea cretica
Cretan yarrow
Afrata gorge.
1892 Otanthus maritimus
Cottonweed
Seen at Aposelemis shore by the hotel.
1895 Chrysanthemum coronarium Crown daisy
Common especially at Knossos and Tavronitis river
1920 Carlina corymbosa
Branched carline thistle Common but noted at Omalos.
1965 Picnomon acarna Picnomon
Afrata gorge and Kali Sikia road.
1971 Galactites tomentosa
Galactites thistle
Very common everywhere.
2055 Tragopogon porrifolius
Salsify
Common on waste ground (big clocks seen at
Malia).
Monocotyledons
2089 Asphodelus aestivus
Common asphodel
Common on dry hillsides, in bud on higher slopes.
2092 Asphodeline lutea
Yellow asphodel
Seen in Kotsiphos gorge by the track where we had
lunch.
2102 Gagea graeca
Greek lloydia
On rocky outcrops including Armeni.
2143 Tulipa doerfleri #
Doerfler’s Tulip
Only in bud in Spili fields.
2145 Tulipa saxatilis ssp bakeri @ Cretan rock tulip
Patches on Omalos plateau.
2147 Tulipa cretica #
Cretan tulip
On Spili bump.
2151 Fritillaria messanensis
Fritillary
In bud above Spili.
2163 Drimia maritima (Urginia maritima) Sea squill
Common on hillsides, leaves only.
220X Muscari comosum
Tassel hyacinth
Common – especially Armeni and Akrotiri roadside
stops.
2222 Smilax aspera
Rough bindweed
First seen at Kournas, very common.
2224 Allium roseum
Rosy garlic
Seen at Souda bay and outside our hotel rooms at
Galini.
2237 Allium ampeloprasum
Wild leek
Seen in Afrata.
2253 Agave americana
Century plant
Commonly planted, noted first in Afrata.
2270 Pancratium maritimum Sea daffodil
Leaves only on sandy beaches such as Aposelemis.
2283 Hermodactylus tuberosus Widow iris
In flower on Omalos plateau among snow.
2290 Iris pseudacorus
Yellow iris
By Agia lake.
2285 Iris unguicularis
Cretan iris
Leaves only at Kali Sikia road and on
ssp cretica @
Spili bump
2307 Gladiolus italicus
Field gladiolus
Common in cultivated places under olives such as
at Malia.
2306 Gynadriris monophylla
Single leaved Barbary nut Flowers were either gone over or buds at Spili.
2368 Arum creticum @
Cretan arum
Common in the Kali Sikia gorge and lunch site at
Kotsiphos.
2358 Dracunculus vulgaris
Dragon arum
Seen in several places, especially Akrotiri & Malia.
2377 Arisarum vulgare
Friar’s cowl
Armeni and Irini gorge.
2399 Aceras anthropophorum Man orchid
Kali Sikia road gorge, and above Spili
2402 Orchis boryi @
Bory’s orchid
The Spili bump.
2409 Orchis italica
Naked man orchid
Armeni graves, Spili bump.
2417 Orchis provincialis
Provence orchid
Spili bump
2417a Orchis provincialis
Few-flowered orchid Kali Sikia road gorge
ssp pauciflora
2419 Orchis quadripunctata
Four-spotted orchid
Kali Sikia road gorge.
2408 Orchis lactea
Milky orchid
Many on Spili bump
2420 Anacamptis laxiflora
Lax-flowered orchid
Agia lake pasture.
2407 Orchis tridentata
Toothed orchid
One seen at Spili
2423 Ophrys lutea ssp lutea
Yellow bee orchid
Akrotiri, Omalos, Armeni, Spili bump.
(O. phryganae)
2424 Ophrys fusca
Brown bee orchid
Group seen on Spili bump.
2425 Ophrys omegaifera
Omega orchid
One seen Spili bump (P).
ssp fleischmannii @
2436c Ophrys scolopax
ssp heldreichii
2437 Ophrys cretica @
XX Ophrys tenthredinifera
XX Ophrys episcopalis
2444 Ophrys bombyliflora
XXX Serapias bergonii
2450a Serapias orientalis
2451 Serapias lingua
2452 Serapias parviflora
2460 Briza maxima
XX Briza media
2473 Lagurus ovatus
2494 Arundo donax
XX Juncus maritimus
XX Phragmites australis
2314 Romulea bulbocodium
Marengo (woodcock) orchid
Seen at Armeni (only form of
woodcock occurring on Crete)
Cretan bee orchid
Kali Sikia road gorge.
Sawfly orchid
Abundant at Armeni and Spili
Bishop’s bee orchid
Photographed at Spili
Bumblebee orchid
Small group photographed at Spili
Tongue orchid
Souda bay war cemetery
Eastern tongue orchid Agia lake
Tongue orchid
Agia lake, Armeni and many other places.
Small-flowered tongue orchid Agia lake and other places.
Giant quaking grass
Common.
Common quaking grass Seen at Souda bay cemetery.
Haresfoot grass
Common including by Moronis river.
Giant reed
Common wetland plant.
Sea rush
Seen at Moronis river mouth.
Reed
Agia lake and Georgeopoli lake.
Sand crocus
Sheets of flowers around temporary pool on
Omalos plateau.
Pteridophyta
2501 Selaginella denticulata
2516 Equisetum telemeteia
Ferns and horsetails
Lesser clubmoss
Kali Sikia road
Giant horsetail
At Agia Lake.
BIRDS
SHEARWATERS
Cory's Shearwater
GREBES
Little Grebe
Black-necked Grebe
IBISES, SPOONBILLS
Glossy Ibis
HERONS, BITTERNS
Little Bittern
Black-crowned Night Heron
Squacco Heron
Grey Heron
Purple Heron
Little Egret
CORMORANTS
Great Cormorant
Family Procellariidae
Calonectris diomedea borealis One distantly at Kolimbari harbour; several
following fishing boat Aposelemis marsh.
Family Podicipedidae
Tachybaptus ruficollis A few on Lake Kournas; three on Agia lake;
a few seen at Georgioupolis lake.
Podiceps nigricollis
One seen on Lake Kournas.
Family Threskiornithidae
Plegadis falcinellus
An immature bird seen at Agia lake.
Family Ardeidae
Ixobrychus minutus
One seen in flight at Aposelemis marsh
Nycticorax nycticorax One seen at Agia lake.
Ardeola ralloides
Several seen at Agia lake; one seen at the
Aposelemis marsh.
Ardea cinerea
One seen at Agia lake; two seen at the
Aposelemis marsh.
Ardea purpurea
One seen behind Kolimbari beach; one
seen at the Aposelemis marsh.
Egretta garzetta
A few seen at Agia lake; four seen at the
Aposelemis marsh.
Family Phalacrocoracidae
Phalacrocorax carbo
One seen at Chania harbour; one seen at
Agia lake; one seen off Aposelemis marsh.
FALCONS
Kestrel
Family Falconidae
Falco tinnunculus
A few seen daily; one noisy breeding pair
in Afrata gorge; pair seen in Selinari gorge.
Eurasian Hobby
Falco subbuteo
Two seen at Agia Triada Monastery.
Peregrine Falcon
Falco peregrinus
A female seen in Selinari gorge.
RAPTORS
Family Pandionidae / Accipitridae
Griffon Vulture
Gyps fulvus
A few seen on 'the gorges' excursion; three seen
near Omalos plateau; one seen at Petres rivermouth gorge; many roosting, taking off for the day
and nesting in Selinari gorge; a 'kettle' of 17 seen
nearby at a coffee stop.
Short-toed Snake Eagle
Circaetus gallicus
One seen between Heraclion Airport and Agia
Marina; a pair over the escarpment behind Kolimbari harbour.
Western Marsh Harrier
Circus aeruginosus
Two females, one immature, seen at Agia lake.
Common Buzzard
Buteo buteo
A few seen almost daily.
Bonelli's Eagle
Hieraaetus fasciatus
One seen at Agia lake.
Booted Eagle
Hieraaetus pennatus One seen at Agia lake in the company of the above.
RAILS, CRAKES & COOTS
Family Rallidae
Little Crake
Porzana parva
At least three seen at Agia lake.
Common Moorhen
Gallinula chloropus
Two seen at Agia lake; a few at Georgioupolis lake.
Eurasian Coot
Fulica atra
A few seen at Agia lake and Georgioupolis lake.
LAPWINGS & PLOVERS
Family Charadriidae
Little Ringed Plover
Charadrius dubius
Three seen in the Tavronitis river; a pair seen at
the Aposelemis marsh.
WADERS
Family Scolopacidae
Marsh Sandpiper
Tringa stagnatilis
One seen in Aposelemis marsh.
Common Greenshank
Tringa nebularia
One seen at the Moronis river-mouth; one seen in
Aposelemis marsh.
Common Sandpiper
Actitis hypoleucos
Four seen at Agia lake; seven seen at the Moronis
river; two or three seen at the Aposelemis marsh.
Wood Sandpiper
Tringa glareola
One seen behind Kolimbari beach; four seen at the
Moronis river; 16 seen on the Omalos plateau; one
seen at the Aposelemis marsh.
Little Stint
Calidris minuta
One seen in Aposelemis marsh.
Temminck's Stint
Calidris temminckii
Two seen behind Kolimbari beach.
Curlew Sandpiper
Calidris ferruginea
One seen at the Moronis river-mouth; one seen at
the Aposelemis marsh.
GULLS & TERNS
Family Laridae
Yellow-legged Gull
Larus michahellis
Abundant, seen daily.
Gull-billed Tern
Sterna nilotica
One seen with a crab in its beak at the Aposelemis
marsh.
PIGEONS & DOVES
Family Columbidae
Common Pigeon
Columba livia
Abundant, seen daily.
Common Wood Pigeon
Columba palumbus
One seen near Agia lake.
Eurasian Collared Dove
Streptopelia decaocto Abundant, seen daily.
CUCKOOS
Family Cuculidae
Common Cuckoo
Cuculus canorus
One heard in the Agia Irini gorge; one seen at
Knossos archaeological site; one seen in Selinari
gorge.
SWIFTS
Family Apodidae
Alpine Swift
Tachymarptis melba
Fairly common, flocks seen on four days.
Common Swift
Apus apus
Common, seen daily.
Pallid Swift
Apus pallidus
A few seen and heard at Agia lake and in Chenia.
KINGFISHERS
Common Kingfisher
HOOPOES
Eurasian Hoopoe
Family Alcedinidae
Alcedo atthis
Family Upupidae
Upupa epops
One seen at the Moronis river-mouth.
At least three seen at Knossos archaeological site;
one at Malia archaeological site.
WOODPECKERS
Family Picidae
Eurasian Wryneck
Jynx torquilla
Two heard on the Omalos plateau.
SHRIKES
Family Laniidae
Woodchat Shrike
Lanius senator
Three seen on the Omalos plateau; one seen at the
Aposelemis marsh.
CROWS, JAYS
Family Corvidae
Eurasian Jay
Garrulus glandarius
Six seen near the Omalos plateau.
Red-billed Chough
Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
Two seen in the Kourtaliotiko gorge; a few seen
and heard above the Samaria gorge.
Eurasian Jackdaw
Corvus monedula
A few seen at the Kotsiphos gorge.
Hooded Crow
Corvus cornix
Abundant, seen daily.
Northern Raven
Corvus corax
Three seen between Heraclion Airport and Agia
Marina; a pair nesting in Afrata gorge; common on
and near the Omalos plateau.
TITS & CHICKADEES
Family Paridae
Great Tit
Parus major
Common, seen daily.
Blue Tit
Cyanistes caeruleus
A pair seen in the Afrata gorge.
SWALLOWS, MARTINS
Family Hirundinidae
Sand Martin
Riparia riparia
A few seen at the Tavronitis river.
Barn Swallow
Hirundo rustica
Common, seen in numbers daily.
Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Lots seen near the Omalos plateau and in the
Samaria gorge; a few at the Petres river-mouth
gorge; a few seen in Selinari gorge.
Northern House Martin Delichon urbicum
A few seen daily.
Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
Several seen at the Tavronitis river.
LARKS
Family Alaudidae
Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla
Two or three seen in Aposelemis marsh.
Crested Lark
Galerida cristata
Three seen behind Kolimbari beach; quite a few
seen at the Aposelemis marsh.
Woodlark
Lullula arborea
One heard at the 'dragon arum' stop near Agia
Triada Monestary; one heard on the Spili plateau;
several hear and seen on the Omalos plateau.
OLD WORLD WARBLERS
Family Sylviidae
Cetti's Warbler
Cettia cetti
Common heard daily, even from our hotel rooms!
Great Reed Warbler
Acrocephalus arundinaceus
One heard at the Moronis river.
Sedge Warbler
Acrocephalus schoenobaenus A few seen and heard singing at Agia lake.
Willow Warbler
Phylloscopus trochilus
One seen at Agia lake.
Common Chiffchaff
Phylloscopus collybita
Two seen at Agia lake; one heard at the Moronis
river.
Eurasian Blackcap
Sylvia atricapilla
Common, heard singing almost everywhere, a few
seen.
Sardinian Warbler
Sylvia melanocephala
Abundant, seen daily.
STARLINGS
Family Sturnidae
Common Starling
Sturnus vulgaris
One with no tail seen bathing at the Aposelemis
marsh.
THRUSHES
Family Turdidae
Eurasian Blackbird
Turdus merula
Common, seen daily.
FLYCATCHERS
Common Nightingale
Whinchat
Family Muscicapidae
Luscinia megarhynchos
One heard briefly near Agia Triada Monastery.
Saxicola rubetra
Several seen at Agia lake and in the Afrata gorge;
seven seen at the British War Cemetery; seven
seen at the Aposelemis marsh.
Eurasian Stonechat
Saxicola torquatus
A male seen at Agia lake.; a few on the two days in
the uplands, a pair seen at the Aposelemis marsh.
Northern Wheatear
Oenanthe oenanthe
Lots seen on the Omalos plateau.
Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
One seen near the Agia Triada Monestary; one
seen near the Omalos plateau.
Blue Rock Thrush
Monticola solitarius
A male heard singing and found in the Afrata
gorge; two seen in the Kotsiphos gorge; a pair seen
in Selinari gorge.
European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
A few seen in the Afrata gorge; a male seen at the
Moronis river-mouth.
Collared Flycatcher
Ficedula albicollis
At least three seen at Agia Triada Monastery; a
male and female seen at Knossos archaeological
site.
Semi-collared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata
A male seen briefly at the Armeni Minoan tombs
could not be relocated.
SPARROWS
Family Passeridae
House Sparrow
Passer domesticus
Common, some of the 'Italian' type.
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
Several seen at Agia lake.
ACCENTORS
Family Prunellidae
Dunnock
Prunella modularis
Heard singing at Agia lake.
WAGTAILS & PIPITS
Family Motacillidae
Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Several of the Turkish race M. f. feldegg seen
behind Kolimbari beach, a male seen at the
Aposelemis marsh; a male of the central
European race M. f. flava seen at Agia lake; a male
of the SE Russian race M. f. superciliaris seen in
Aposelemis marsh.
FINCHES
Family Fringillidae
Chaffinch
Fringilla coelebs
Common, seen daily.
European Serin
Serinus serinus
A few seen near the Agia Triada Monastery.
European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Common, seen daily.
European Goldfinch
Carduelis carduelis
Common, seen daily.
Eurasian Linnet
Carduelis cannabina
A small flock seen in the Kotsiphos gorge; two seen
near the Omalos plateau.
BUNTINGS & ALLIES
Corn Bunting
Emberiza calandra
Cirl Bunting
Emberiza cirlus
Family Emberizidae
One seen near the Minoan tombs at Armeni; two
seen on the Omalos plateau.
Two or three seen near the Omalos plateau.
MAMMALS
OTTERS, WEASELS & BADGERS
Family Mustelidae
Beech Marten
Martes foina
Many seen as road causalities.
Least Weasel
Mustela nivalis
One seen running across the road at Agia lake.
Eurasian Badger
Meles meles
A few seen as road causalities.
MOONRATS & HEDGEHOGS
Family Erinaceidae
Eastern Hedgehog
Erinaceus concolor
One road casualty seen on our way to Knossos.
REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS
TOADS
Green toad
Bufo viridis
FROGS Family Ranidae
Marsh (Lake) Frog
Rana ridibunda
Cretan Frog
Pelophylax cretensis
American bull frog
Lithobates catesbeiana
TERRAPINS
Balkan Terrapin
Mauremys rivulata
Red-eared Slider
Trachemys scripta
GECKOES
Kotschy's Gecko
Cyrtodactylus kotschyi
TYPICAL LIZARDS
Balkan green lizard
Lacerta trilineata
Cretan wall lizard
Podarcis cretensis
SKINKS
Ocellated skink
Chalcides ocellatus
Family Bufonidae
Spawn and tadpoles seen on the Omalos plateau.
Common in freshwater ponds and tanks.
Seen and heard at Kourna Lake.
Heard and seen at Agia Lake.
Family Emydidae
Seen at Agia Lake and Georgeopolis Lake.
Seen at Agia Lake.
Family Gekkonidae
Two seen at Knossos.
Family Lacertidae
A few seen.
Fairly common on warm days.
Family Scincidae
Singles seen at Agia Lake and Knossos.
FLUTS & MOTHS
SWALLOWTAILS
Family Papilionidae
Swallowtail
Papilio machaon
Scarce Swallowtail
Iphiclides podalirius
WHITES & YELLOWS
Family Pieridae
Large White
Pieris brassicae
Small White
Pieris rapae
Clouded Yellow
Colias crocia
Cleopatra
Gonepteryx cleopatra
(Brimstone not present in Crete)
BRUSH-FOOTED BUTTERFLIES
Family Nymphalidae
Painted Lady
Vanessa cardui
Red Admiral
Vanessa atalanta
BROWN BUTTERFLIES
Family Satyridae
Wall Brown
Lasiommata megera
BLUES, HAIRSTREAKS & COPPERS
Family Lycaenidae
Common Blue
Polyommatus icarus
MOTHS
Family Sphingidae
Pine processionary moth Thaumetopoea pityocampa
OTHER TAXA SEEN
WATER BEETLES
Water Boatmen
Whirligig Beetle
GROUND BEETLES
Green Tiger Beetle
POLLEN BEETLES
Pollen Beetle
LADYBIRDS
Two-spot Ladybird
Seven-spot Ladybird
Family Gyrinidae
Notanecta sp
Gyrinus natator
Family Carabidae
Cicindela campestris
Order Coleoptera
Oxythyrea funestra
Family Coccinellidae
Adalia bipunctata
Coccinella septempunctata
GRASSHOPPERS
Family Locustinae
Long-nosed Grasshopper Acrida ungarinca
LOCUSTS
Order Orthoptera
Egyptian Locust
Anacridium aegyptium
CAVE CRICKETS
Family Rhaphidophoridae
Cave Cricket sp
Dolichopoda sp?
SNAILS
Family Helicoidae
Common (Garden) Snail Cornu aspersum
Banded Snail
Cernuella virgata
Cretan Door Snail
Albinaria inflata
DRAGONFLIES & DAMSELS
Order Odonata
Common Blue-tail (Damselfly) Ischnura elegans
DARTERS
Family Aescnidae
Red-veined Darter
Sympetrum fonscolombii
MILLIPEDES
Family Eurymerodesmidae
Millipede sp
Acanthopetalum sp?
CARPENTER BEES
Family Xylocopinae
European Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea