10 Build the Box
12 Add the Railing
DECK
Installation Instructions
IMPORTANT: Railing requirements vary by municipality and province, so
consult your local building inspector for information about necessary
railing heights and distances between balusters.
Measure and insert the farthest right
and left rim joists into place by resting
one end in the joist hanger and the
other on the beam. After checking
for square (using the 3-4-5
method), toenail the joists to the
beam and nail the other end into the
joist hanger on the ledger board.
To finish the box, add your ribbon
joist by nailing it into the ends of your rim joists. Ensuring the box is square, go
back and firmly secure the beam to the posts.
Now, square and cut all the remaining joists to their required lengths to fit into
all the joist hangers. Slide each joist into its hangers on the ledger board and
ribbon joist, and then fasten. Finally, toenail all joists to the beam ensuring
they’re all secured into place.
11
Start Laying the Deck
First, measure around the perimeter of your deck to estimate the length of your
2"x6" top railing. Then, cut your three railings at 45-degree angles for the corners.
Once you determine the height of your railing, cut one baluster carefully, to be
used as a template for the others. Proceed by cutting the rest of your balusters
to desired length as well as drill pilot holes at the top and bottom of each
baluster.
When finished, choose two balusters for the left and right end. Screw their
lower ends to the deck joists, which will result in loose, unattached upper ends.
To these upper ends, screw your top rail and check for plumb. You can now
attach the rest of your balusters. Use a spacer block to keep a uniform space
in between as you go. (To provide added strength, you can slightly decrease
the spaces between balusters by using a smaller spacer.) Work across the
railing and, every 3-4 balusters, check again for plumb, making any necessary
adjustments.
Finally, you can choose to add a ‘top
cap’ by simply nailing a 2"x4" face down
(flat) onto your railing. This will add both
aesthetics and added support.
FINISHED
DECK
Timbertip
Pre-drilled (pilot) holes prevent
splits while making joints stronger.
To save time – and provide a
uniform appearance – square up
several balusters at once in order
to drill perfectly parallel pilot
holes. It is also recommended
that screws be used instead of
nails, as they can better stabilize
your incomplete railing while you
affix the remaining balusters.
Tools & Materials
Plumb Bob
Carpenter’s Level
Glossary
Hammer
Balusters: upright supports between deck surface and railing
Concrete (ready-mix)
Beam: horizontal beam(s) that support the joists and runs parallel to the ledger (and house)
Circular Saw
Crown: the natural bow-shape in lumber
J-Bolts
Decking: pieces of wood that form the surface of the deck
Flashing: metal that protects joints (and the house) from moisture
Footings: concrete foundations that support the deck
Ribbon Joist: piece that attaches to end of joists and runs parallel to the ledger
J-Bolts: inserted into footings when concrete is wet and is a strong connector for post anchors
Joists: lumber that supports the decking and runs perpendicular from the house
Start to lay your decking across the joists. Begin with the piece closest to the
house (on top of the ledger board) by nailing or screwing it into the joists
below. As a rule, use two fasteners on each joist, about 1" in from the edges.
After laying the first piece, lightly tack a 16d nail into each joist against its
edge. This will ensure uniform spacing between the first and second pieces
of decking. As you lay the second piece, push it tightly against the nails
before nailing or screwing it into the joists. Repeat this until all the decking is
secured. When all pieces are fastened, cut off the extra or overhanging decking.
Carefully measure and mark a chalk line along the entire left and right sides.
Then use a saw to make one even cut on each side.
Tube-form Footings
Drill
Measuring Tape
Framing Square
Socket and Ratchet
Galvanized Nails (2-1/2" & 3-1/2")
Ledger Board: framing that attaches to the house and supports joists
Joist Hanger Nails
Post Anchor: attaches the footing to the post
Silicone (or Caulking)
Post Cap: attaches the post to the beam
Lag Screws (4" x 1/2")
Posts: lumber that stands vertically to support beams and/or railing
Chalk Line
Rim Joists: lumber that supports the outer (left and right) edges of the deck
Flashing
Tack: to lightly secure a piece of lumber
Washers
Toenail: to drive a nail from an angle
Thanks for choosing TIMBER MART in constructing your new deck.
12
1
2
11
3
10
6
4
5
7
1
9
8
Mark Deck Height
While there are many different ways to do so (including a variety of
tools and building methods), we have chosen those best suited for
this 10'x10' mid-level deck. Please read through the following steps
carefully BEFORE proceeding, and, as always, be sure to check local
bylaws to ensure approval and/or necessary permits. A good
starting point is your nearest Municipal Affairs and Housing Office.
5
2
Frame It
With 2"x4"s or 1"x2"s, create four batterboards that will serve as guides for the
outer edges and corners of the deck. Drive the batterboards into the ground
as shown, approximately 2' past the eventual length and depth of the deck.
Lightly drive nails into the side of your house, even with the left and right edges
of the deck. Tie string (or a mason’s cord) to the nails and the batterboards across
from them. Do this for both sides. Then, using
the 3-4-5 method, make sure your edges are
Timbertip
square. You should now have a total of three
The 3-4-5 Method:
level lines – two extending from the house and
Measure 3' along one side
and 4' along a perpendicular
one extending the width of the eventual deck.
side. Now measure the diagonal
The intersecting points where these lines
formed between these two
cross represent the outside edges of your
spots. If it measures 5 feet, then
the corner is square.
corner posts.
To prepare your deck for framing,
measure and cut five 2"x8" boards
to their required lengths: one for
the ledger board which will mount
against the house, three to be
used for the beam, and one for
the ribbon joist (the outer edge).
Keep in mind lumber is typically 1/2"
to 1" longer than its stated length,
so measure carefully. The ledger
board, beam boards and ribbon
joist should all be the same length.
Know the Deck
1
Decking
4
Footing
7
Post
10
Ledger Board
2
Cap Rail
5
Ribbon Joist
8
Beam
11
Flashing
3
Balusters
6
Joist
9
Rim Joist
12
Siding
3
Dig your Footings
To mark the joist locations for the
ledger joist and ribbon joists, securely clamp them together and lay them
across two sawhorses with the crowns facing up. Measure 3/4" in from the
left side of each board to mark the center of your first joist. From this point,
make a line every 16" and add the letter “X” to the left of it. These lines
represent the edges of where your joist hangers will be fastened, and the
“X” represents the side on which they’re placed (in step 9).
Finally, unclamp your boards and transfer the markings from the edges to the
faces of the ledger board and ribbon joist.
6
Measure and mark the height of what will be your finished deck. Generally, a
deck’s top surface is 2-3" below the doorsill. Anything shorter or longer in
height can be a safety hazard for people stepping up or down. Be sure to
mark the top and bottom heights of your 2"x8" ledger board as well. Extend all
three of these markings to the left and right corners with chalk lines.
Mark your Boards
IMPORTANT: Always check for underground
utilities before digging.
The area directly below the intersecting points
is where to dig your footings. To do so, use
posthole diggers (or a power auger) and
make sure you go deeper than the frost line.
(A building inspector should confirm and
approve the depth before you proceed.)
An easy way to fill your footings is to first
pour 3-6" of gravel for any necessary drainage
followed by a tube-form footing to hold your
concrete. Top the holes with the ready-mix
concrete, level them off and clean away any
excess.
4
Install the
Ledger Board
7
Set your Posts
Now that your concrete has dried, place a post anchor over the J-bolts in each
footing, securing the anchor with a nut and washer. Rest a post into the anchor and
lightly tack it into position. Measure your posts for plumb using a carpenter’s level,
then tighten and secure them into the post anchors.
8
Cut your Posts
& Make your Beam
Timbertip
Measuring Concrete: Here’s a simple way to
assess how many 60 lb.
bags you’ll need to fill a 12"
diameter hole. Divide the
depth (D) of the hole by 9.
(D / 9 = N, the number of
bags per hole) Now multiply
the number of bags per
hole (N) by the number of
holes (H). (N x H = the total
number of bags you’ll need.)
Set the J-Bolts
Using a plumb bob, find the center of each footing and insert a J-bolt into the
wet cement, leaving about 3/4" of threaded material exposed at the top. (This
is where your posts will eventually sit.) To ensure that your concrete hardens
completely, wait at least three days before proceeding.
IMPORTANT: The TIMBER MART method is to lay your beam across the top
of your posts. Be extra careful during this step, as a mistake in measuring or
cutting could result in installing a new post.
Timbertip
In the event that flashing is
required, it is recommended
that metal ‘Z’ flashing be used
behind your siding for the entire
length of the ledger board.
For specific directions about
flashing installation and how to
cut your specific type of siding
(i.e. vinyl, stucco, aluminum
or brick), consult your local
TIMBER MART professional.
IMPORTANT: Ledger board regulations
vary by province. Be sure to check and
confirm requirements with your local
building authority.
Before securing it, ensure that your ledger
board sits flush against the house. In most
cases, you can use wooden shims behind
your ledger board to avoid cutting your
siding. (Cut your shims from siding stock
and simply tack them upside down on
your ledger board location. The shims keep
your ledger board vertical with the house.)
When completely flush, drill pilot holes in the space between the joist markings
and fill them with exterior caulking or silicone as this will prevent ANY potential
moisture from leaking in. Now fasten your ledger board with lag screws and
washers in the pre-drilled locations.
9
Attach Joist Hangers
Using your joist markings (from step 5), align the inside joist hanger edges to your lines.
(Your “X” markings should appear INSIDE the joist hangers.) With a piece of scrap
wood as a guide, attach your joist hangers across the ledger board and ribbon joist.