Celebrating the textile heritage of Merton www.riverandcloth.co.uk Block Printing Workshop Pack for Teachers and Volunteers Block Printing Work shop Pa ck Contents Title Page Fact Sheet: Block and Calico Printing 1 Fact Sheet for pupils: Block Printing in Merton 6 Fact Sheet: Arthur Liberty & the Liberty Store 7 Fact Sheet: The Huguenots in the Wandle Valley 11 Fact Sheet for pupils: The Huguenots in Wandle Valley 14 Workshop Plan: Block Printing Techniques 15 Sheet of Paisley Designs 25 Further Resources and Information 26 List of Materials Required for Print Workshop 31 List of Stockists of Print Materials 35 Health & Safety Guidelines for Workshop 36 Risk Assessment 38 Accident Report Form 41 Photo Consent Form for pupils 43 Evaluation Form for pupils 44 Fact Sheet: Blo ck and Calico Prin ting A Liberty Wooden Printing Block 1 The decoration of fabric can be traced back to early history. One of the earliest techniques used to colour fabric was printing with a simple wooden block. Block printing is an ancient technique that has been used to decorate fabric as far back as 4th century BC. During this time, a print would have been made from a wooden block that printed a coloured paste on to a plain piece of cloth. These prints would not have been colourfast and were not suitable for clothing. Instead, they would have been used for furnishing fabrics. The Indian and Chinese have a long history of making beautiful fabrics and in the 15th century, Portugal traded with India and brought back highly decorated calico cloth. These designs were known as ‘Chintz’ and became very popular for home furnishings, especially a design known as ‘the tree of life’, which was imported by the East India Company. 1 Fact Sheet devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 Tree of Life Print, created by Liberty 2 Fashionable ladies of the day insisted that printed designs like the Tree of Life should be made wearable. The fabrics became so popular exporters could not keep up with demand and in the 17th Century Europeans began to experiment with their own printing techniques. Groups of Huguenot refugees who had settled in England (many of them in the Wandle area) played a huge part in the development of printing techniques.3 Demand for printed calico was high but by the end of the 17th Century the market was in danger of being saturated by both imported and home-made designs. Domestic silk and wool workers were afraid that their goods would not withstand the competition from overseas and they backed a bill to ban the printing of calico in England. In 1701, importing foreign printed goods was banned but this gave way to English printers setting up their own businesses. Unfortunately for the weavers and silk workers, the ban backfired and meant that the market was flooded with English prints and illegally smuggled Indian designs. Riots broke out and women wearing printed cottons had the cloths torn from their backs by supporters of the Weave and Silk Trade. By 1720, it became illegal to wear printed calico, however it was not illegal to export or to print on linen and so the printing trade continued to grow. In 1752 copper-plate printing was invented by Francis Nixon in Ireland. This change in technique meant more delicate and larger repeat patterns could be created. By 1783 Thomas Bell invented a printing machine which revolutionised the way in which fabric could be commercially and mass produced. One of the most successful calico printers on the river Wandle was Peter Mauvillian, a naturalized French Huguenot who in 1690 established a printing works at Ravensbury in Mitcham, and a second works at Wandsworth. Mauvillian was a successful printer and his was one of the largest calico firms of the period, employing up to 250 workers. Block Printing Process Creating lengths of fabric for industry was a complex and laborious process. To become a skilled block printer at Liberty it took 7 years of training in the form of an apprenticeship. An apprentice would learn all the stages of block printing under the supervision of the master block printer. It was only after this lengthy training that an apprentice would have been deemed to have enough experience and skill to print for Liberty. Above: Block Printer at Liberty Print-works in Merton during the 1950s4 2 Fact Sheet devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 The following extract by Harry Fairman, former Master Foreman at Liberty describes the stages of block printing at the Liberty Print-works5: # # # # # # Carving the block: The first process for block printing was to create a carved wooden block to print from. Each colour used in the design would require its own block, which could take a skilled block maker up to two weeks to carve. Preparing the table: The tables were washed down and spread with a water gum. Chalk lines were then drawn to keep the cloth straight. Preparing Fabric: Silk worms create a natural gum when spinning their cocoon. Silk fabric needed to be boiled to remove the gum to allow the printing colour to soak evenly onto the fibres. The fabric was then dyed, rinsed and dried for printing. Printing: The printer has to check the line where he wants to print and marks out where he will print. The block is dipped into the colour in a felt tray and then carefully placed on the cloth. The block is tapped on the back with a heavy mallet which ensures the design of the block is transferred to the cloth. The next block is then carefully lined up to the position of the pin prick of ink left by the previous block. This is repeated until the first colour is completed. The remaining colours are then printed in the same manner. Once it is all printed, the fabric is stiff with ink and feels more like paper. Steaming: The silk is then taken to be fixed as the dyes would wash out if soaked in water. The fabric is cocooned in a backing cloth which prevents the dyes from transferring themselves onto other layers of silk. Rinsing: Once the colours were fixed the printing gums were washed out in the River Wandle (the water had better qualities than tap water). The silk was looped around a drum with the ends tied together to keep it continuously turning. The cloth was submerged in water so that any surplus gum or colour was washed away. These days block printing is far too labour intensive and time consuming to be a profitable way to print fabric. Many of the original blocks used in Morris’ and Liberty’s era have been sold as ornaments or given to museums (such as Victoria & Albert Museum, Wandle Industrial Museum and The William Morris Gallery) as well as former Liberty 3 Fact Sheet devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 employees. Today, many of the Liberty images from the original blocks have been transferred to screen so that they can be screen-printed or hand machine printed. However, traditional wooden printing blocks are still widely used in areas of India such as Gujarat and Rajasthan, and in parts of Africa there are villages where the art of block printing is being revived for export. The materials used include mud pastes for resist printing and natural vegetable dyes to colour the fabric. Fabric design from Bagaru, Gujarat, India, - which uses both resist and direct printing techniques 6 There are numerous methods for block printing and they include: # Printing colour directly on to cloth. # ‘Discharge’ printing. This involves printing a bleaching agent onto a previously dyed cloth to remove colour. This process was first used in the 19th Century # Printing various mordents thickened with gum so that when dipped into the dye bath, a range of shades can be produced. # Resist printing. This involves printing a paste that blocks the dye from absorbing into the cloth. The River and Cloth workshops in Block Printing will explore resist and direct colour printing techniques. 4 Fact Sheet devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 Notes to Text: 1 Image reproduced here with kind permission from Lapwing Printworks – please see http://forwhatischatteris.blogspot.com 2 Silver Tree of Life Print, created by Liberty of London 3 See Fact Sheet on Huguenots and the Wandle Valley for further information 4 From Liberty & Co In The Fifties And Sixties – A Taste for Design, Anna Buruma, London, ACC Editions, 2008, 5 See section entitled: ‘Reminiscences of Harry Fairman, Master Foreman and Block Printer in: Trouble at Mill, a Brief History of the Former Liberty Works Including Textile Printing at Merton Printers Ltd (Libertys) 1965-1982, David Luff, Merton Historical Society, London, 2002 6 Image created by The Craft And Artisans – http://www.craftandartisans.com/hand-blockprinting-of-bagru-rajasthan.html 5 Fact Sheet devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 Fact Sheet for Pupils: Block Printing in Merton Above: Sari wooden printing block from a collection at the Wandle Industrial Museum Block printing is an ancient technique that has been used to decorate fabric as far back as 4th century BC. A print would have been made from a wooden block that printed colour on to a plain piece of cloth. These prints would not have been colourfast and so couldn’t be used for clothing. Instead, they would have been used for furnishing fabrics. What does colourfast means? Hint: this was mentioned in the film about block printing, which you watched during the visit to Wandle Industrial Museum. India and China have a long history of making beautiful fabrics and in the 15th century, Portugal traded with India and brought back highly decorated calico cloth. These designs were known as ‘Chintz’. One of the most popular designs of this time was the ‘tree of life’ design. Can you think of a famous Victorian designer who was deeply inspired by this pattern? Hint: You may have viewed a number of his works during the visit to Victoria & Albert Museum. Liberty silk scarf with the Tree of Life design Arthur Liberty Vintage Liberty Scarf In the late 19th century, a man called Arthur Liberty began producing beautiful printed silk and calico cloth at Merton Abbey Mills for his famous London shop Liberty, on Regent Street. Although he was more of a businessman than an artist, Arthur loved beautiful objects, particularly those from far away places like India, China and Japan. He was very good at predicting future trends and fashions – he became interested in Japanese art and design when there was no trade between Japan and Europe. He felt that the exquisite Japanese designs and artefacts would soon become very popular in England and sold lots of these goods in his shop and adapted the patterns for Liberty print designs. William Morris set up his textile workshops downstream from Arthur Liberty, at Merton Abbey Works. Liberty used to joke that he sent his dirty water down to Morris. After the colour had been block printed on to the silk, it was washed in the River Wandle, discharging lots of colour that would have flowed downstream to Merton Abbey Works! Why was silk washed in fast flowing rivers like the Wandle rather than in baths or sinks? Hint: If you watched the film about block printing closely, you should know the answer! Like Morris, Liberty used traditional block printing techniques to create beautiful designs. Blocks were carved out of wood and it would take a master block carver two weeks to make just one. A total of 27 printing blocks were used to create a typical Liberty paisley silk scarf like the one above. Apprentices had to train with Liberty for seven years before they could become professional block printers. Fact Sheet compiled by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney 6 Fact Sheet on Arthu r Lib erty & th e Liberty Store Arthur Liberty 1 Arthur Lasenby Liberty was born in Chesham, Buckinghamshire in 1843. He was a great business man who also had an eye for beautifully crafted exotic objects and artistic talent. It was this outlook that made the Liberty store such a pioneer in fashion and home décor. Liberty began his career at the age of 16, working in the warehouse of a relative who was a lace manufacturer. By the age of 18 he began working for Farmer & Rogers ‘Great Shawl Emporium’, and during that year he visited London’s second Great International Exhibition held at South Kensington (on the site now occupied by the Victoria & Albert Museum). The exhibition contained many exquisite art and luxurious objects from all over the world, but Liberty was drawn to the section devoted to Japanese art, particularly the porcelain with its beautiful intricate patterns. Viewing Japanese art would have been quite rare at that time – although art from China, Iran and Turkey had been imported to England for several centuries, Japan did not open up to Western trade until 1868. These Japanese art objects, textures and patterns, were to have a profound and positive influence upon Liberty’s aesthetic taste and subsequently, his success. Farmers & Rogers Great Shawl Emporium became a meeting hub for artists and Liberty was respected for his interest and expertise in the arts. When his employers opened another store specializing in oriental goods, Liberty was made Junior Manager. Before long, he was managing the whole store and continued to do so for a further 10 years. Liberty’s interest in Japanese art happened at just the right time – a few years earlier it would have been unobtainable and a few years later it would have become too common and Westernized2. By following his instincts and passions, Liberty was able to predict important trends and make some very astute business decisions. Fact Sheet Devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 7 Soon his artist friends encouraged him to start his own shop as they felt he was not being given the recognition he deserved. They also promised him their custom and loyalty and this gave him the confidence to strike out alone and start his own business. With a £2000 loan from his father-in-law, Liberty opened his first shop which he named East India House at 218A Regent St. This sum was a huge amount at the time, but Liberty knew Regent Street would become the prime retail location we know today. It was the first street in London to be built specifically for shopping, selling luxurious goods and was designed by the famous architect John Nash. Liberty had a genuine belief and passion for the goods he sold. He was part of a large movement for improving public taste and strongly supported genuine craftsmanship. He continued to be influenced by other cultures, importing exotic fabrics from the East and travelled to countries such as India, China, and Iran seeking inspiration for his merchandise and designs. East India House was such a success that within the first year Liberty was able to repay back the money he owed with the profits he made from selling luxury goods. His shop received many famous customers including artists Rossetti, Millais, Watts and Whistler. William Morris was a frequent caller and bought many goods for his own use. As the business grew, neighbouring properties were bought and added. Eventually, Liberty had a vision to build his own Tudor style store with the help of designer/architect Edwin T Hall. The Liberty Store today on Regent Street3 Liberty’s aim was to create a shop that encouraged the customer to feel like they were wandering around their own home. The store you see on Regent Street today was built in 1924 using timber from two ships - the HMS Hindustan (which is the length of the shop’s frontage) and HMS Impregnable. In the late 1800s, Liberty was instrumental in the development of various artistic movements including The Aesthetic Movement, and both the Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau movements. The formations of these groups were a response to the ostentation of Victorian style and contained simple, elegant forms, which were hand crafted and similar to the aesthetics in craft and dress found in the Far East and the Middle East. Art Nouveau is still referred to as ‘Stile Liberty’ in Italy. Today, Liberty the store continues to be at the forefront of contemporary fashion and is still world famous for its prints, fashions and design classics. One of Kate Moss’ recent collections for Top Shop was influenced by print designs from the Liberty archive. Fact Sheet Devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 8 Liberty and Merton Abbey Mills Liberty is renowned for its beautiful fabric, a lot of which was created at Merton Abbey Mills. In the early part of the 19th century, an Irish man called Edmund Littler took over the printing works at Merton Abbey Mills for the production of fine silks and fabrics. Littler began producing designs and fabrics for the Liberty store around 1875. In 1904 Arthur Liberty bought Littler’s premises and Liberty produced goods there right up until 1972. William Morris was a neighbour, as he had set up his studio and workshops down stream in Merton Abbey Works, the site now occupied by the Savacentre. Arthur Liberty used to rejoice in the fact that “We sent our dirty water down to Morris!”4 Like Morris, Liberty used traditional block printing techniques to create beautiful and intricate designs. Block printing is an ancient technique that has been used to decorate fabrics as far back as 4th Century BC. The Fact Sheet on Block and Calico Printing contains more information on the history of these techniques, but we should mention here that it would take up to 27 printing blocks to create a typical Liberty shawl! The printer would have worked over a day to make a shawl like the one below: Vintage Liberty Scarf 56 As Liberty fabrics became hugely popular, block printing was no longer a viable technique to use. A skilled block printer can only produce 27 metres of fabric a day compared to 164.5 metres printed by a screen printer and 274.32 metres by a machine. Blocks were made out of wood and it would take a master block carver two weeks to make one. Creating a block out of wood 7 Fact Sheet Devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 9 Notes to Text: 1 See Liberty’s: A Biography of a Shop, p.20, by Alison Adburgham, Allen & Unwin, 1975 Photograph printed by Sir Joseph Causton and Sons Ltd 2 See The Liberty Store, pp.8-9, James Laver, Liberty & Co Ltd, 1959 3 Photograph taken by LuisVilla. See http://www.flickr.com/photos/maguisso/124771105/ 4 See Liberty’s: A Biography of a Shop, p.40 5 Photograph taken by Fabulous Vintage Fashion. See flickr.com/photos/fairytrixy/3738510140 6 Photograph taken by FairyTrixy. See http://www.flickr.com/photos/fairytrixy/3738510140 7 Photograph from An Historical Guide to Merton Abbey Mills, p10, Kevin Leyden, Wandle Industrial Museum, 2000 Fact Sheet Devised by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney, February 2010 10 Fa ct She et: The Hugu enots in Wa ndle Va lley Painting of Mill in the Wandle Valley in 17th/18th century ‘Huguenot’ was the name given in the 16th century to the Protestants in France, who were reformists and followers of John Calvin.1 In 1685, King Louis XIV of France revoked a previous edict giving Protestants equal rights with Catholics and declared Protestantism illegal. This led to wide spread religious persecution and between 1685 and 1700, some 200,000 Huguenots fled their homes in France. Getting out of the country was an extremely risky business. Men who were caught were either executed or made to work as galley slaves in the French fleet on the Mediterranean. Women were imprisoned and their children sent to convents to be converted to Catholicism.2 Many did manage to escape and a substantial number settled in the UK - some in the Merton and Wandsworth area. Mary Hart, a traditional Block Printer based at Wandle Industrial Museum, is descended from Huguenots and has been told that one of her female ancestors was smuggled into the UK inside a rolled up carpet! As the Huguenots were taking refuge here, they were called 'refugees' and this is how the word refugee was introduced into the English language. Like many people migrating to this country today, the Huguenots were often viewed with suspicion by some of the indigenous population of the UK. There were concerns that their presence would threaten jobs, standards of housing, public order, morality and hygiene. There were even complaints about the strange food they ate, which seems ironic given that today French cuisine is considered to be among the finest in the world.3 Fact Sheet Complied by Clare Moloney March 2010 11 The Huguenots worked very hard to assimilate and carve out a prosperous existence. The fact that they were educated, inventive and skilled artisans made them very successful at their chosen professions. Their skills in silk weaving, bleaching and dyeing cloth, felt-making and hat making, played an integral role in the development of England's textile industry. This did lead to some tensions with their English counterparts – many English craftspeople felt that Huguenot workmanship was unfairly preferred to their own. A number of Huguenots established themselves in the calico printing trade and some set up printing works in the Wandle Valley area. One of the most successful was Peter Mauvillain. Calico being laid out for bleaching 4 Mauvillain was very well respected in the calico printing trade. In 1696 he was one of 39 signatories on a petition submitted to the House of Lords in protest against a proposed bill to ban the wearing of printed and dyed calico in the UK. Although demand for calico was high, by the end of the 17th Century the market was being saturated by both imported and home-made printed designs. Domestic silk and wool workers were afraid that their goods would not withstand the competition from overseas and the bill was an attempt to secure legislation to protect the interests of workers whose trade was suffering due to the popularity of calico.5 Mauvillain set up printing works in Mitcham, at the site now occupied by Ravensbury Mill and in Wandsworth. It is thought that by 1719 Mauvillain employed over 200 local people at his Mitcham and Wandsworth works. The size of Mauvillain's working premises, his workforce and the diversity of their skills - which included tierers (responsible for ensuring the right amount of colour/dye goes on to the printing block), grounders, printers, drawers and cutters, demonstrates that Mauvillain was pioneering aspects of the industrial revolution usually associated with the later part of the 18th century. It is believed that he rented 34 acres of land (which is now part of the Morden Hall Estate) and organised the digging of trenches, ditches, and drains, to divert some of the River Wandle to come through the estate to aid the dyeing, washing and printing of calico.6 Peter Mauvillain is buried in St Lawrence's Churchyard in Morden, along with his brother Stephen and his son Peter. Fact Sheet Complied by Clare Moloney March 2010 12 Notes on Text 1 John Calvin was an influential French theologian and pastor during the Protestant Reformation. He was a principal figure in the development of the system of Christian theology later called Calvinism. 2 The Huguenot Society's website (http://www.huguenotsociety.org.uk/history.html) has a very informative website which explains the origins of the conflict between Protestants and Catholics in France in more detail. 3 See http://www.huguenotsociety.org.uk/history.html as above 4 See p.6 in Historical Guide to Merton Abbey Mills, Kevin Leyden, 2000 5 See Fact Sheet on Block & Calico Printing. See p24 in Textile Bleaching and Printing in Mitcham and Merton, E N Montague, 1992. 6 See 'The Ravensbury Print Works, pp.63-65 in Ravensbury Mitcham Histories 10, E N Montague, 2008 Fact Sheet Complied by Clare Moloney March 2010 13 Fact Shee t fo r Pupils: The Hugue nots in the Wandle Valley Some of earliest calico printers in Merton were French Protestants known as ‘Huguenots.’ In the late 17th century many Huguenots had to flee their homes because of religious persecution in Catholic ruled France. Men caught trying to escape were either executed or made ‘galley’ slaves – meaning they were forced to be oarsmen and row ships in the French fleet. Women were imprisoned and their children sent to convents to be converted to Catholicism. Mary Hart, a traditional Block Printer based at Wandle Industrial Museum, is descended from Huguenots and one of her female ancestors was smuggled into the UK from France rolled up inside a carpet! Above: A Huguenot couple embrace before they part to flee France. This is a painting by John Millais - a famous 19th century artist who was a friend of William Morris. Many of the Huguenots who did manage to leave France safely, settled in England - a number of these in the Wandle Valley area. Huguenots were refugees. In fact it was the Huguenots who introduced the word ‘ refugee’ into the English language. Do you know what a refugee is? Hint: There is a clue in the word ‘refuge.’ Like many refugees migrating to the UK today, the Huguenots often bore the brunt of other people’s prejudices. Some English people worried that the Huguenots presence would threaten their jobs and housing. However, the Huguenots worked very hard to fit in and build a happy and prosperous life here. Many of them were extremely skilled in the arts and crafts and made an important contribution to England’s textile industry. A few set up calico printing works along the River Wandle. One of the most successful calico printers in Merton was a Huguenot man called Peter Mauvillain. In the early 1800s Peter Mauvillain employed over 200 local people at his Print Works in Mitcham and in Wandsworth. He also rented 34 acres of land on what is now known as the Morden Hall Estate (in Morden Hall Park) and diverted parts of the River Wandle on to this land to ease the printing and dyeing process. Running a large business was unusual at that time, when most crafts-people worked from their own homes or in tiny workshops with a small number of workers. It seems that Peter was something of an entrepreneur way before anyone really knew what an entrepreneur was. Do you know what an entrepreneur is or what they do? Hint: Arthur Liberty was considered one. So is Alan Sugar! Given that many English people, particularly craftspeople, were worried that the Huguenots would threaten their jobs, Peter Mauvillain came along and created many jobs for local people and gave a boost to Merton’s economy. If you take a walk to St Lawrence's Churchyard, just off the London Road, not far from Morden South Railway Station, you will find the grave of Peter Mauvillain who is buried there along with his brother Stephen and his son Peter. Fact Sheet Compiled by Clare Moloney 14 Celebrating the Textile Heritage of Merton Work shop Plan for B lock P rinting Techniques Image of Tree of Life design created by Liberty’s 1 Key Inspirations: A collection of Liberty prints and the ‘tree of life’ motif The print phase of River and Cloth explores the traditional printing techniques employed by Liberty’s when their factories were based at Merton Abbey Mills. During this stage of the project, we shall also explore contributions made by groups of Huguenot refugees who settled in and around the Merton area during between the 17th and 18th century, as well as exploring many of the calico prints and designs created in India and China. This will include the iconic tree of life design, which became very popular in England during the 17th and 18th centuries. The tree of life represents the idea that all life on earth is related and this idea is used in science, religion, philosophy and mythology. If you were able to join us on the visit to the Victoria & Albert Museum, you might remember seeing a number of textiles and designs which incorporated the tree of life design. The aim of this workshop is to create and print a paisley design. The paisley is a kidney bean shape also known as boteh. The word boteh is the anglicised version of the Hindi word buta, which means flower.2 Please combine the practical steps in this workshop plan with the following Fact Sheets: History of Block Printing and Calico Printing, Arthur Liberty & Liberty Store and The Huguenots in the Wandle Valley. Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 15 Participants will learn how to create a print by block printing on to fabric squares. They will have the opportunity to design their own block and experience two different print techniques: resist printing and direct colour printing. By the end of each workshop, work produced by each participant will form part of a large collaborative tree of life textile wall hanging. They will also be able to take their squares home or the pieces can be sewn together to make a large class patchwork. Health & Safety Some of the activities will require the use of a warm iron and rinsing fabrics through cold water. Volunteers, teachers and teaching assistants will be required to carry out these task on behalf of children aged 12 and under. Children aged 12 and over, should be closely supervised when carrying out these activities. Dyes used in this workshop are non-toxic, however they will stain clothes. Please advise participants to wear aprons and old clothes. If the dye gets on to skin, wash off as soon as possible. In this workshop, we will use Manutex, a seaweed-based paste that is used in the food industry and is harmless. However, it is not advisable for participants to ingest! Resources and materials Prior to the workshop, each teacher will receive a box of materials including: Foam boards Poly Silk fabric Calico fabric A4 paper Cardboard Manutex Please note: each teacher will need to provide lots of newspaper. Additional materials and equipment will be shared around the schools and will be provided by the artist on the day of the workshop. For a full list of materials and equipment used in this workshop, please refer to the Materials List for Print Workshops. Preparation for Workshop Prior to the workshop please look at repeat patterns such as paisley designs from India, China and Liberty’s collection. Please refer to the page entitled Paisley Designs in your workshop pack. Additional images of paisley designs can also be found on the web by searching in google images using the term ‘paisley design’. The artist will also bring a variety of images and templates to the workshop for inspiration. Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 16 Please ensure the following tasks are completed before the workshop: # # # # Cut each the fabric into squares measuring 28cm x 28cm, enough for each participant to have one square of calico and one of poly-silk. Cut the A4 foam sheets into quarters - each participant will need 2 quarters each. For this you will need to use a scalpel, cutting board and ruler. I suggest cutting a couple of sheets at a time. Ask the participants to collect one large clean empty glass/jam jar each and bring into school before the workshop. The day before the workshop, mix 30g of manutex powder with 300ml tepid water - you will need ten parts water to one part powder. Mix thoroughly until all the granules have dissolved. Leave for one hour then mix again. Put the mixture in a large jam jar or air-tight container and store in the fridge. It will keep for a few days. Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 17 Activity 1: Creating the Block Participants will create a paisley shaped relief block by mark making and cutting into a foam sheet which will then be glued on to a piece of thick cardboard. Drawing your paisley design: Choose one of the paisley shapes and draw around the template on to a sheet of A4 paper. Making the Blocks: Using the paisley images provided by the artist and in your workshop plan for inspiration, create your own design. You will need to make 2 different blocks - one large and one small. Make sure that one of your designs points to the left and one to the right. Note to Teachers/Volunteers: Please ensure that the templates are drawn around with the gold side facing up so that there are a variety of designs pointing to the left and to the right. Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 18 Activity 1: Creating the Block continued… Draw around the paisley shape again, this time on to a piece of foam board. Cut out the shape carefully, making sure the edges are neat. Use the off cuts to create petal shapes around the outside. Glue the foam on to a piece of thick card and cut off any excess card. Volunteers and teachers may be required to assist participants and use a scalpel. Copy the design you have already made on paper on to the foam design. On a scrap piece of foam, you can experiment making different marks and indentations with your pencil or biro, such as dots, slashes, circles etc. Alternate the density of the lines by making some of them thick and some of them thin. Try indenting interesting textures, or using the other end of your biro or pencil Turn the block around and make a tab handle with two short pieces of masking tape so that after printing you can pick up the block with ease. Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 19 Activity 2: Resist Printing on silk using Manutex Paste Take a square of poly silk Write your initials in biro on the right hand corner Tape down the square of silk on to some newspaper Take the brayer roller and roll it into the manutex paste and then on to the plate. Once the manutex is evenly spread, roll it on to the large foam block making sure it is a thin layer and not lumpy Print your paisley design on to the poly silk square. Carefully place your design foam side down on to the fabric and press firmly with the palm of your hand, ensuring that you apply even pressure all over the block. You will see faint lines from your print gradually appear. Repeat this process, making sure you don’t put too much paste on to the foam block or it will splodge. Leave to dry for between 5 and 15 minutes – it will depend on the room temperature. You can also use a hairdryer to speed up the process! Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 20 Activity 2: Resist Printing on silk using Manutex Paste continued… Once the paste has dried, use the roller with the fabric ink and cover the fabric with a thin layer of ink. Leave to dry for approximately 10 minutes. Again you can use a hair dryer to speed up the process. Once the ink is dry, iron for approximately one minute to fix on to the fabric. Volunteers and teachers should do this task on behalf of children 12 and under. Wash out the fabric in cold running water, gently rubbing the print side to itself to help wash away the manutex. You may need to scrub for a while! Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 21 Activity 3: Printing with Direct Colour on to Calico Lay the calico square onto a piece of newspaper. Write your initials on the back in the right hand corner. Make sure there are no creases underneath. Ink up the brayer and apply a thin layer of ink onto the small textured foam block. Carefully place the block on to the calico fabric and press firmly. Make sure you apply even pressure all over. You can pick up the block using the masking tape tab. Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 22 Activity 3: Printing with Direct Colour on to Calico continued… Repeat by rolling ink on to block before printing again. Repeat until the whole piece of calico is printed. When the ink is dry (it should take about 10 minutes for it to dry as long as the ink has not been applied too thickly), use the iron to fix the colour. Volunteers and teachers can do this task on behalf of children 12 and under. Throughout the workshop, participants will be called up in small groups to print a direct colour image on to a collaborative ‘tree of life’ wall hanging that will be completed by the end of the workshop and exhibited in the River and Cloth Exhibition, September 2010: Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 23 Notes on Text 1 2 See: http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/categorylist/dept/liberty-of-london_scarves?resetFilters=true See: www.quiltersmuse.com/paisley Workshop Plan for Block Printing Techniques Devised by Sandrine Case January 2010 24 Additional Reading, Resources and Information on Block Printing Further Information on Liberty: # Liberty’s: A Biography of a Shop, Alison Adburgham Hardback: 160 pages Publisher: Sir Causton and Sons Ltd, 1975 ISBN: 0 04 380021 1 Biography of Arthur Lazenby Liberty and the creation of Liberty’s the store. # Liberty and Co. in the Fifties and Sixties: A Taste for Design, Anna Buruma Hardback: 144 pages Publisher: ACC Editions, 2009 ISBN: 978-1-85149-572-6 Story of Liberty’s transition from traditional shop to a modern store situated near the epicentre of the fashion world - Carnaby Street in the sixties. # Liberty Style: The Classic Years, 1898-1910, Mervyn Levy Hardback: 160 pages Publisher: Weidenfield and Nicolson, 1986 ISBN: 0 297 7882 8 Book exploring Arthur Liberty’s aesthetic and his affiliation with the modern movement. # Liberty Print Works: War Time Remembrance, WJ Rudd Paper: 15 pages Publisher: Merton Historical Society, 1994 A first person account from a former block printer, who worked at Liberty’s print-works in Merton. # Liberty’s 1875-1975 Victoria and Albert Exhibition Guide, 1975 ISBN: 0 901486 90 6 This book was published to accompany Liberty’s centenary exhibition at the V&A in 1975. Further Reading List compiled by Sandrine Case, February 2010 26 # Trouble at Mill, a Brief History of the Former Liberty Works Including Textile Printing at Merton Printers Ltd (Liberty’s) 1965-1982, David Luff Paperback Publisher: Merton Historical Society, London, 2002 Tracing the early industrial history of the Liberty Printworks in Merton, containing many detailed accounts of production processes from the people who worked there. Further Information on the Huguenots who settled in England: # The Huguenots in England: Immigration and Settlement c.1550-1700, Bernard Cottret Hardback: 317 pages Published: Cambridge University Press, 1985 ISBN: 0 521 33388 1 hardback A detailed study of one of the great migrations of early modern Europe, exploring different Huguenot communities who settled in England, and their origins, skills, aspirations, which enabled them to become so successful. # Huguenots in Britain and Their French Background 1550-1800, Irene Scouloudi Hardback: 340 pages Published: The Macmillan Press Ltd, 1987 ISBN:0-333-39669-3 A collection of articles and papers which first appeared as contributions at the Historical Conference of the Huguenot Society in London, September 1995. # Huguenot Heritage: The History And Contribution Of The Huguenots In Britain, Robin Gwynn Paperback: 261 pages Published: Sussex Academic Press, 2nd edition 2001 ISBN: 1-902210-34-4 A full-length study of the Huguenots in Britain. Further Reading List compiled by Sandrine Case, February 2010 27 Information on Block Printing and Calico Printing: # World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques, John Gillow & Brian Sentence Paperback: 240 pages Publisher: Thames & Hudson, 2001 ISBN-10: 0500282471 An exploration of how textiles articulate the cultures that make them. Includes over 800 colour photographs and drawings and covers a range of handmade textiles from around the world. # Exploring Fabric Printing, Stuart & Patricia Robinson Hardcover: 160 pages Publisher: Mills & Boon Ltd, 1970 ISBN-13: 978-0263513912 # Colour on Cloth, Ruth Issett Paperback: 128 pages Publisher: Batsford - reprint edition, 2009 ISBN-13: 1906388342 A book full of colouring and dyeing recipes from one of the leading colourists in the world of textile art. # Colour and the Calico Printer: An Exhibition of Printed and Dyed Textiles, 1750 - 1850 Deryn O’Connor & Hero Granger-Taylor Paperback: 68 pages Publisher: West Surrey College of Art & Design, 1982 ASIN: 8001P4JR2M # Hand Block Printing and Resist Dying, Susan Bosence Hardcover: 144 pages Publisher: David & Charles, 1985 ISBN: 0-7153-85240 A book which looks at printed textiles and contains guidelines for hand block printing and resist dyeing. # Ideas for Fabric Printing and Dyeing, Peter Gooch Paperback: 96 pages Published: Batsford, 1974 ISBN-10: 0713428309 Illustrated book describing 59 different techniques for printing and dyeing fabric. Further Reading List compiled by Sandrine Case, February 2010 28 # Patterns of Culture- Techniques of Decoration and Colouration, M.A Hann Paperback: 40 pages Publisher: University of Leeds Textiles Archive, 2005 ISBN: 0-9549640-0-4 Images of Paisley Designs: # Paisley Designs CD Rom & Book, K Prakash Paperback: 48 pages Publisher: Dover Publications, 2008 ISBN-13: 978-0-486-99882-4 This book and CD Rom reproduces over 200 vibrant examples of traditional paisley motifs, inspired by trees, leaves, flowers and birds. # Paisley Designs, Gregroy Mirow Paperback: 48 pages Publisher: Dover Publications Inc, 1990 ISBN-10: 0486259870 Book containing 44 large original plates of paisley designs. # Paisley Designs Colouring Book, Marty Noble Paperback: 32 pages Publisher: Dover Publications Inc. 2008 ISBN-13: 978-0-486-45642-3 A collection of paisley designs inspired by nature’s elements. # 250 Stencil Designs from India, K Prakash Paperback: 48 pages Publisher: Dover Publications, 1996 ISBN-10: 0486290263 Containing many designs taken from authentic Indian art and artefacts, including animal and floral motifs and paisley designs. Further Reading List compiled by Sandrine Case, February 2010 29 Websites and Organisations to Visit: # Liberty the store has many examples of their prints on their website. Go to: http://www.liberty.co.uk # Merton Abbey Mills Merton Abbey Mills contains many buildings of historic interest, in relation to Merton’s textile industry. These include the Colour House Theatre – where Liberty’s used to mix their dyes and the Wheelhouse (the only one of its kind in full restored working order) dating from 1885 and used to wash the gum of printed silk. http://www.mertonabbeymills.org.uk # 19 Princelet Street This is a remarkable, unrestored Huguenot master silk weaver’s home in Spitalfields, which conceals a rare surviving synagogue inside the garden. If you would like to visit, be aware that it opens rarely due to the building’s fragility (the Trust behind it is desperately raising funds for urgent repairs). Check the website for further information and opening times: http://www.19princeletstreet.org.uk # Victoria & Albert Museum The V&A has many Liberty prints and designs in their collection and their website also contains many relevant learning resources for teachers and activities pupils. http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/textiles/index.html # Wandle Industrial Museum The Museum was established in 1983 to promote the history of the Wandle Valley for the use and benefit of the local community. Its collections include the textile industries along the River Wandle. http://www.wandle.org Further Reading List compiled by Sandrine Case, February 2010 30 Materials Required for Workshops in Print Techniques ITEM Pigment binder (Magnaprint Binder FF) QUANTITY 600ml per workshop USE PROVIDED IN WORKSHOP PACK? Prior to the workshop, the artist will mix the binder with the pigments to create inks for printing on to the fabric. PROVIDED BY ARTIST? PROVIDED BY TEACHER/ PARTICIPANTS? Yes *Please note that each teacher and/or volunteer will also have the opportunity to mix their own colours in the workshop A selection of pigments in Blue 3G, Turquoise, Red and Yellow 3G A selection per workshop Prior to the workshop, the artist will mix the pigment with the binder to create the inks. Yes *Please note that each teacher and/or volunteer will also have the opportunity to mix their some colours in the workshop Manutex Paste 30 grams per workshop of 30 participants To be used by the teacher/volunteer on the day before the workshop to mix into a paste. The manutex will be used in the resist printing exercise Yes Electric weighing scales 1 per workshop To measure pigments etc. Tepid Water 300 ml per workshop To be mixed with the manutex to create the paste Yes Measuring Jug 1 per workshop For mixing manutex etc Yes Yes 31 ITEM QUANTITY USE PROVIDED IN WORKSHOP PACK? PROVIDED BY ARTIST? Plastic mixing bowls 3 per workshop For mixing up fabric paints etc. Yes Spatula 3 per workshop For applying and mixing colours etc. Yes Table spoons 6 per workshop For applying and mixing colours etc. Yes Large glass jars 4 per workshop To contain the manutex after it has been mixed into a paste and brought out of the fridge Airtight containers 4 per workshop To contain the mixed inks etc. A4 Paper 100 sheets per workshop To draw design for paisley block Yes Foam Printing Plates 20 A4 sheets per workshop of 30 participants Foam which will be made into printing blocks. Prior to the workshop, the teacher or volunteer will cut these sheets into 4 quarters – 2 for each participant Yes Copydex 1 small pot per workshop PROVIDED BY TEACHER/ PARTICIPANTS? Yes Yes To be used in the workshop to make the printing blocks Yes 2 pieces per participant: 2 ply Cardboard 1 x piece measuring 15cm by 10cm To be glued to the foam, to make underside of the printing blocks Yes 1 x piece measuring 5cm by 10 cm 32 ITEM QUANTITY USE PROVIDED IN WORKSHOP PACK? Scissors A selection per workshop To be used to cut paper, foam and cardboard etc. Cutting Board 1 per workshop To support cutting foam board prior to the workshop 2 rolls per workshop To make the tab handle which will be stuck to the back of the printing block Yes 3 metres per workshop of 30 participants This fabric will be used in the resist printing exercise. Prior to the workshop each teacher or volunteer will cut the fabric into squares measuring 30cm by 30cm – one for each participant Yes 1 metre per workshop of 30 participants This fabric will be pre-printed with the tree of life design prior to the workshop. During the workshop, participants will add their own paisley prints to the design 3 metres per workshop of 30 participants This fabric will be used in the direct printing exercise. Prior to the workshop each teacher or volunteer will cut the fabric into squares measuring 30cm by 30cm – one for each participant Masking tape Poly Silk fabric Pre-printed Poly Silk fabric Calico fabric PROVIDED BY ARTIST? PROVIDED BY TEACHER/ PARTICIPANTS? Yes Yes Yes Yes 33 ITEM Foam Rollers Biros & Sharp Pencils Scalpels Newspaper QUANTITY USE PROVIDED IN WORKSHOP PACK? PROVIDED BY ARTIST? 45 per workshop of 30 participants To be used to roll into the inks and the manutex paste 30 of each per workshop of 30 participants To be used to draw and design printing block print Approximately 6 per workshop To be used to cut the foam board prior to the workshop and into blocks during the workshop Approximately 15 sheets per participant To be used to create a soft surface to print on Approximately 50 per workshop To contain manutex and inks and for rolling foam rollers in 30 per workshop of 30 participants To be worn by each participant during the workshop Yes 30 per workshop of 30 participants To be worn by each participant when handling inks and manutex Yes 1 sheet per workshop To protect the floor during the workshop Yes 2 per workshop To fix the colour on to the fabric Yes 2 per workshop To help dry the ink on to the fabric Yes PROVIDED BY TEACHER/ PARTICIPANTS? Yes Yes Yes x 1 Yes additional 5 provided by artist in the workshop Yes Plastic trays and dishes Yes Plastic Aprons Rubber Gloves Plastic Sheeting Iron Hairdryer 34 LIST OF STOCKISTS FOR PRINT MATERIALS # SUPPLIERS OF FABRICS Please note that some of the suppliers listed here take orders through their websites and catalogues: For Poly Silk: BL Joshi UK Ltd 212-214 Ealing Road Wembley Middlesex HA0 4QG T: 020 8903 0653/5155 W: http://www.joshitex.co.uk For Calico and Silk Organza: Whaleys (Bradford) Ltd Harris Court Great Horton Bradford West Yorkshire BD7 4EQ T: 01274 576 718 E: [email protected] W: www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk For Manutex: Kemtex Educational Supplies Ltd Chorley Business and Technology Centre Euxton Lane Chorley Lancashire PR7 6TE T: 01257 230 220 W: www.kemtex.co.uk For Foam Printing Plates: Specialist Crafts Ltd PO BOX 247 Leicester LE1 9QS T: 0116 2697711 E: [email protected] W: www.specialistcrafts.co.uk For Foam Rollers: Kent County Supplies T: 0845 270 8811 W: www.kentwebshop.co.uk For Copydex: # SUPPLIERS OF FABRIC PAINTS & OTHER DYE STUFFS: For Binder and Pigments: Quality Colours (London) Ltd Unit 13 Gemini Project Landmann Way London SE14 5RL T: 020 7394 8775 E: [email protected] Eurostationers.com Ltd Talbot House 204-226 Imperial Drive Rayners Lane Harrow HA 7HH T: 0845 202 0051 E: [email protected] W: www.eurostationers.com # ITEMS FOR PARTICIPANTS AND WORKSHOP LEADERS TO COLLECT: Old newspapers and large empty jam jars 35 Health & Safety Guidelines Introduction The Print phase of River & Cloth will explore traditional paisley patterns from China, India and the Middle East and its key inspiration will be the iconic tree of life design. The aim of the workshop is to create a fun, modern and innovative interpretation of the tree of life design, using techniques inspired by traditional block printing processes. This sheet provides guidance on general health and safety when working with equipment such as inks, glues, scalpels, irons, and scissors. Risk Assessment See the Risk Assessment sheet for advice on how to prepare for the workshop. Health & Safety Rules A general health and safety talk should be given to participants at the start of each workshop and the following points should be adhered to: # Ensure all work areas are tidy to protect yourself and others during the workshop. # Participants must wear aprons throughout the workshop Health & Safety Guidelines compiled by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney February 2020 36 # Request that participants wear comfortable clothing, and their shoes are not open toed. i.e. flip flops and sandals. # Each participant should wear rubber gloves when using the manutex and inks # Ensure participants do not ingest fabric ink, glue or manutex # Ensure participants do not eat or drink while handling inks and manutex # Mop up any spillages from the floor/plastic covering to prevent slippage # Ensure participants wash their hands after the workshop is finished # Do not use any pots, jars or trays that have been used to mix ink or glue for food preparation # If a participant feels tired at any point during the session, suggest they take a short break. # Participants aged 11 and under should ask the workshop leader/teacher/volunteer to use the iron on their behalf; participants aged 12-16 can use the iron under supervision # Make sure that the iron and ironing board is placed in a quiet and nonbusy area. Ensure that the lead is tuck away to avoid anyone tripping over # Participants aged 11 and under should be supervised when using large sharp scissors and scalpels # Ensure that there is a first aid box in the work-space with materials and dressings for dealing with burns and cuts # Record all accidents/incidents on the River & Cloth accident report form and ensure a hard copy is returned to the Project Manager # All electrical equipment used in the workshop must have an up to date PAT (portable appliance testing) test. Health & Safety Guidelines compiled by Sandrine Case & Clare Moloney February 2010 37 Health & Safety Risk Assessment for Print Workshops Hazard Identified Who Risk Control Measure Cuts from scissors and scalpels All Low At the beginning of the workshop, the lead artist/teacher/volunteer will instruct participants not to walk through the workshop space carrying sharp objects. Participants aged 11 and under will be assisted by lead artist/teacher/volunteer when using sharp implements. Participants aged 12 and over will be supervised by artist/teacher/volunteer when using sharp implements Ingestion of dyes and printing substances All Low All dyes and inks used will be nontoxic Only the required amounts of dyes and substances will be prepared and kept in jars/containers clearly labelled. At the end of the workshop, any unused substances will be bottled up and removed from the workshop space. Risk Assessment compiled by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney February 2010 38 Hazard Identified Ingestion of dyes and printing substances cont. Who All Risk Low Control Measure Participants will be instructed to wear rubber gloves when working with glue, manutex and dyes No food or drink will be permitted inside the workshop space Participants will be instructed to wash their hands after printing and at the end of the workshop Allergic reaction to Copydex Spillage and slipping All All Low Medium Lead artist/teacher/volunteer will find out if any of the participants are latex intolerant at the start of the workshop. Those with allergies will not handle the Copydex directly but will be assisted by a teacher or volunteer. Participants will be requested to wear old comfortable clothing and will wear an apron throughout the whole workshop to protect clothes and skin. Towels will be placed at each table to mop up spillages. Plastic covering will protect the floor – therefore making it less slippery. Staining of clothing All Medium Any spillage that gets on to the floor or plastic covering will be mopped up immediately. Prior to the workshop, participants will be advised to wear comfortable old clothing. During the workshop all participants will wear aprons. They will also be advised at the beginning of the workshop that the substances used can stain clothes and that aprons must be worn throughout the session and gloves worn when participants handle dyes and other substances. Risk Assessment compiled by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney February 2010 39 Hazard Identified Risk of scalding and burns from use of iron Who All Risk Low Control Measure Participants over the age of 12 will use the iron under adult supervision. The artist/teachers/volunteers will use the iron on behalf of participants aged 11 and under. Disposal of substances All Low Hygiene All Low The iron will be located in a safe place away from the main workshop activity. Only the required amounts of inks, glues and manutex will be brought to the session. Any left over will be bottled up and used in a future session. Participants will be asked to wash their hands after the activity. A first aid box will be on hand to address any minor cuts and scalds. Risk Assessment compiled by Sandrine Case and Clare Moloney February 2010 40 Accid e nt/I ncid e n t R e port Fo rm An accident is an unplanned event that results in an injury or could have resulted in an injury or results in damage to equipment or property. Anyone can complete an accident report form. Once completed the form should be sent to Clare Moloney - River & Cloth Project Manager: [email protected] Confidentiality - This form will be held securely by London Borough of Merton for the purpose of monitoring health and safety and will only be disclosed to persons or organisations able to demonstrate a legal right to the data contained. Details of person completing this report Full name........................................... Staff/Participant/Visitor Name of School/Community Group......................................... Address & postcode ........................................................... ................................................................................................ Telephone contact number............................................................... Signature...........................................Date................................... Details of accident/incident What happened? Give cause (how and why) if known .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... ..................................................................................................... ..................................................................................................... Date of accident/incident................................. Time......................................................... Where it happened........................................ 41 Details of any persons injured Full name........................................... Staff/Participant/Visitor ........................................ Address & postcode ........................................................................... .................................................................................................... Telephone contact number................................ Name of School/Community Group Nature of injury .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... Treatment given .................................................................................................... Treatment given by .................................................................................................... Taken to hospital - Yes/No If yes, which hospital and how taken .......................................................................... Off work as a result – please delete as appropriate: Yes/No..... If yes - for how many days?........... Continue report on extra sheet if necessary 42 Celebrating the textile heritage of Merton www.riverandcloth.co.uk Image Consent Form Please fill in the form below and send back to your class teacher giving your consent for the following: If you do not wish to give consent please tick here Format: Photographic and video documentation of River & Cloth workshops and events Usage: River & Cloth and Partners’ websites and promotional materials Childs Name: School: Class: Name of signatory: Signature: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Celebrating the textile heritage of Merton www.riverandcloth.co.uk Image Consent Form Please fill in the form below and send back to your class teacher giving your consent for the following: If you do not wish to give consent please tick here Format: Photographic and video documentation of River & Cloth workshops and events Usage: River & Cloth and Partners’ websites and promotional material Childs Name: School: Class: Name of Signatory: Signature: 43 Celebrating the textile heritage of Merton Feedback on Workshop Activity Please draw a circle around one of the faces below to show how you felt about the workshop: Please draw a circle around one of the faces below to show how you felt about designing and making the block: Please draw a circle around one of the faces below to show how you felt about working with the dyes and rollers: Please draw a circle one of the faces below to show how you felt about your own print design when it was finished: Please write down below what you have learned today that you didn’t know before: 44
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