FAQ’s
Why are these grasses considered ‘Horse friendly’?
These grasses tend to be lower in NSC (sugars). They have not been selected for traits that
promote rapid weight gain and milk production. The ultimate nutrient content of grasses
will depend on the soil in which it grows, the season, weather and the stage of growth at
which it is grazed.
They tend to grow more slowly than ‘high production’ rye-grasses/tall fescues for example.
They also grow well on less fertile country. Land which has been fertilised or limed to where
the pH is higher than 6.2 will tend not to suit these grasses.
When growing grass for horses it is not about ‘yield’. Fertilising the soil to promote more, or
rapid growth will tend to make the grass less suitable for horses to graze, particularly pleasure horses, ponies and minis.
RECOMMENDED SEED MIXES
‘Organic’ fertilisers, whilst improving the health of the soil and the grass growing on it, result
in prolific yields. Such high nutrient density, voluminous grass can also be unsuitable grazing
causing many issues including obesity and laminitis.
Sowing ‘Horse-friendly’ grasses is a huge step in the right direction.
Appropriate pasture management needs to be implemented to reap the benefits.
See www.calmhealthyhorses.com
Why are Clovers, Plantain, Chicory excluded from these mixes?
Clovers, plantain & chicory are all ‘broad-leaf’ plants not grasses. Any plant with a ‘broadleaf’ is storing sugars, usually as starches. Farmers like them for fattening livestock but they
are unsuitable for horses.
They contain hormonally active compounds which can cause hormonal and reproductive
problems in horses.
Being very dark green they are high in ‘fluorescing’ compounds which cause photosensitivity or mud-fever & sun-burn.
Add to these the inherent mineral imbalances and you have significant metabolic insult
which adversely affects the health and behaviour of horses.
Your Pasture Management budget should allow for an annual application of a broad-leaf
spray to eliminate these plants from your horse pastures. Early spring, once they have
started to grow is a good time and means your hay crop will be clean.
Drought conditions favour chicory and plantain. Cloudy, damp conditions favour clover especially when grass has been grazed short.
Order from
www.calmhealthyhorses.com
www.calmhealthyhorses.com
Pleasure Horses, Ponies & Donkeys
Brown-Top
RENOVATING PASTURE FOR HORSES
30kgs/Ha
Crested Dog’s Tail
1)
Target the paddock. It is best to only replace a
small percentage of your grazing area at one
time (an area you can do without until late spring).
The earlier in Autumn the paddock can be sown
the better - before the soil temperatures decline
and to take advantage of Autumn rains.
Chewing Fescue
The reality is that the establishment of healthy, safe,
specialist horse pastures is a process and takes the
best part of a year. You only get one chance to
establish new grasses so it is essential to follow
these instructions diligently.
Timothy
Description:
Breeding & Performance Horses
Grazing Brome
30kgs/Ha
Chewing Fescue
Brown-Top
For direct drilling/over-sowing into an existing
old pasture, start here:
2)
Once you have decided which paddock you
are going to renovate, it is important to have
it sprayed out for grass and broadleaf leaf plants
as soon as possible. Even if you have some good
grasses already there you need to knock them
back in order to give the new grasses a chance to
establish.
You or your contractor should apply:
• 5 lt Glyphosate per Hectare, which is a knock
down broad spectrum herbicide (also known as
G360, Round up, Turbo)
• 40 grams Granstar per Hectare, which is a
targeted broadleaf herbicide.
Cocksfoot
Timothy
Description:
Both Seed mixes include a Natural Mineraliser innoculation to enhance germination and
seedling vigour.
Strongly recommended but Optional: Poncho Insecticide Seed Treatment (protection against
grass grub, black beetle, argentine stem weevil, spring tails for the initial 6-8 weeks of the new
plant’s life)
Can be shipped NZ-wide
• 100-200ml Pulse, or other wetter, sticker product
that enhances the spreadability and uptake of the
chemicals, ensuring a better knock down.
4)
You should continue to monitor your young
horse pasture for insect damage. It is a
good idea to monitor under the turf for slugs. If
significant presence is noticed, be proactive with
additional insecticide and/or baiting treatments.
5)
When
establishing
pasture,
weeds
competing with the new grass are the enemy.
When your newly established pasture is about one
inch tall and you think all weeds have struck, you
can apply a selective herbicide to control these
newly struck weeds.
You or your contractor should apply:
• 2-3lt MCPA per Hectare
6)
First grazing. Brand new grass of any
species can be very harmful to horses. First
grazing, when the grass is just a few inches tall
should ideally be by sheep who will nip off the
tops. Otherwise mow it. This will cause the roots
to strengthen up.
If the new plants can be pulled out easily between
your thumb and fore finger the plants rooting
depth and strength are too immature for horses
to graze.
Ideally take a cut of hay off the new grass. Then,
when the grass is no longer vegetative and has
‘dried off’ late spring/summer allow gradual
grazing access by your horses
• Mixed with 200lt water per Hectare
Allow 3-4 weeks for the paddock to brown off
3)
Sow the paddock. Arrange for your
contractor to apply the appropriate pasture
seed-mix at a very shallow depth (10mm) but well
covered. Otherwise the birds will have a feast! Sow
at the per hectare rate on your bag. Give your seed
all the help it can get by using biological and/or
insecticide treated seed.
*Disclaimer: Considering the many variables that can influence
how well your horse pasture will establish (for example weather
conditions or soil condition, compaction, fertility and type)
it is un-realistic for us to offer any type of gaurantees. We
assume no responsibility and offer our best practice guidence
only as a base for your specific repasturing considerations.