L A B R E S U LT S
THIS MONTH: 08.13
•T
TEL
E EPR
R ESE
SE
EN
NCE
C E CONFERENCING
CONFE
CO
NF
NFEREN
NFE
FE
E REN
RE
E N CIN
CING
G
TELEPRESENCE
• ICE
IC
C -C
-CR
C EAM
CR
E M MA
EA
M
A KE
KER
RS
ICE-CREAM
MAKERS
• I N - F L I G H T E N T E R TA
AINMENT
EDITED B
Y
BY
JEREMY WHITE
HERO AT ZERO
Chef Éric Lanlard
is famous for his
desserts – here’s his
recipe for greentea ice-cream, which
he used in WIRED’s
test machines.
INGREDIENTS
• 50ml sake
• 50ml milk
• 60g golden
caster sugar
PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD MAXTED
• 3 egg yolks
• 1 tablespoon
matcha powder
(easily available
from Japanese
delicatessens or
online) blended
with 2 tablespoons
of water to form a
smooth paste
• 200ml double cream
• 1 tsp vanillabean paste
METHOD
Mix the sugar, milk
and sake over low
heat, stirring it until
the sugar dissolves.
In a bowl, whisk
the egg yolks. Slowly
pour in one-quarter
of the hot milk,
whisking as you
go, then add this
mixture back into the
remaining hot milk.
Stir the mix over
a low heat, until it
thickens slightly.
Pour it into a bowl,
via a sieve. Combine
the matcha paste,
cream and vanilla,
and add the milk
mixture. Whisk to
blend and cool, then
cover and chill. Follow
the directions for
your ice-cream maker.
Chef Éric Lanlard helps
WIRED test ice-cream
makers – but which one
licks the competition?
1
3
9
ICE-CREAM MAKERS / 08 / TEST
INSIDE
SCOOP
GLOBAL ANNUAL
ICE-CREAM
CONSUMPTION*
mixes it up with home
ice-cream makers
WIRED
1
2
3
4
5
US – 17 litres per head
Australia – 10.3 litres
Sweden – 8 litres
Denmark – 7 litres
UK – 6 litres
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De ibel
Dec
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el Mete
er Pro
o iOS
iO
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app (69
69p).
p)
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This stand mixer has
an add-on ice-cream
maker, so although
it’s expensive, it
is versatile. The
4.8-litre bowl must
sit in the freezer for
12 hours before use,
so planning ahead is
essential. Chef Éric
Lanlard thought its
ice-cream set too
quickly, as “it wasn’t
as creamy and fluffy
as the other makers”.
WIRED Very fast
TIRED Pre-freezing
£429 + £77
kitchenaid.co.uk
SPEC
Churn time:
36 min
Decibels: 88
Freeze bowl:
Yes (12 hours)
Bowl size: 4.8l
Wattage: 300W
Weight: 9.5kg
Dimensions: H36 x
L22 x D34cm
2. CUISINART
GELATO &
ICE-CREAM
PROFESSIONAL
ICE100BCU
Unlike the KitchenAid,
this maker uses a
compressor system,
so there’s no need to
pre-freeze the bowl.
You have to serve up
the mixture quickly,
as it only stays cool
for ten minutes or so,
but the ice-cream
churned beautifully.
“This was my
favourite machine,”
says Lanlard.
3. MAGIMIX
GELATO
CHEF 2200
WIRED Professionalstandard results
TIRED Large size
£250 cuisinart.co.uk
SPEC
Churn time: 45min
Decibels: 79
Freeze bowl: No
Bowl size: 1.5l
Wattage: 150W
Weight: 10.2kg
Dimensions: H24 x
W30 x D42cm
PHOTOGRAPHY: MATTHEW STYLIANOU.
WORDS: EMILY PECK; *MINTEL TRENDS REPORT 2011-12
1. KITCHENAID
4.8L STAND
MIXER + ICECREAM MAKER
This compact
machine does its job
well, but took the
longest overall, as
you have to wait ten
minutes for the bowl
to chill before placing
your mixture in.
Lanlard found the icecream “nicely aerated
and a very satisfying
scoop”. As well as a
removable 1.6-litre
bowl, it has a second,
fixed bowl – good for
mixing another batch.
WIRED Easy to use;
handy second bowl
TIRED Pricey
£280 magimix.co.uk
SPEC
Churn time: 44min
Decibels: 85
Freeze bowl: No
Bowl size: 1.6l
Wattage: 150W
Weight: 10kg
Dimensions: H34 x
L24 x D24cm
4. KENWOOD
ICE-CREAM
MAKER IM200
The bowl on this
maker does need
freezing for 12 hours
beforehand, but it
was the fastest
model at churning
ice-cream. As it was
so powerful, Lanlard
felt that the
ice-cream came out a
little too set, so the
texture wasn’t as
creamy as that
produced by the other
models. It’s also very
noisy at 92 decibels.
WIRED Compact
TIRED Ice-cream sets
a little too stiffly
£30 kenwood.co.uk
SPEC
Churn time: 26 min
Decibels: 92
Freeze bowl:
Yes (12 hours)
Bowl size: 1.1l
Wattage: 6kW
Weight: 2.9kg
Dimensions: H21 x
L19 x W19
5. SWAN COME
DINE WITH ME
ICE-CREAM &
GELATO MAKER
What makes this
machine stand out is
the way the bowl
rotates when mixing,
while the paddles
remain stationary.
“This could be why
the ice-cream was so
light,” says Lanlard.
It was the loudest
unit on test, getting
even louder as the
ice-cream set, so it’s
probably not ideal for
smaller kitchens.
WIRED Fluffy and
light scoop
TIRED Very noisy
£48 amazon.co.uk
SPEC
Churn time: 32 min
Decibels: 94
Freeze bowl:
Yes (12 hours)
Bowl size: 2l
Wattage: 50W
Weight: 4.28kg
Dimensions: H29 x
L24 x W21cm
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