FOOD …
this month: wine | fall beer | mix drink l
Anchor Steam Orange Marmalade Cake
Et Voila!
Un Bistro Extraordinaire!
by Mike Tristani
I’m certain that many of
our neighborhood folks have
been to Et Voila since it
opened about seven months
ago, but I had not. On a
chilly night in December we
headed over. The experience
was so wonderful that I felt
compelled to choose this one
as my Restaurant Rave.
The decor and lighting
are absolutely welcoming
with banquettes along the
perimeter and tables down the
center. At the time, a gorgeous
white lit Christmas tree was in
the center and added that
much more ambiance. We
chose to sit at the bar as
we normally do if just us
two. Daniel, our bartender
was most accommodating
and it was fun watching him
produce a variety of creative
cocktails. We perused the
menus and the specials and
set out on our French journey
hoping that we would not be
disappointed. La Bonne Table
in Hillcrest has spoiled us for
good French food. Well, the
bottom line for the entire
evening was a solid 10! Will
return many times.
First course, of course,
escargot! Piping hot and in
a traditional garlic and butter
bath, they were hearty and
excellent. The baguette that
accompanied was traditional
French, crunchy and perfect.
In addition we ordered the
truffle fries as an appetizer.
Enough for two to share, they
were over the top good and
went well with the escargot.
Second course was a
warm goat cheese salad.
I asked if they could make
it all Frisee instead of the
greens on the menu. They
easily obliged. Nothing says
French like Frisee! The goat
cheese was wrapped in an
egg roll type “jacket”. Delish!
Oven roasted tomatoes and
a shallot balsamic vinaigrette
rounded out this dish that was
actually big enough for two
to share. Other salads on the
menu looked equally mouth
watering.
There were two main
courses. First, seared Scottish
salmon with a cauliflower
gratin, Romanesco and lemon
Beurre Blanc, beautifully
prepared and presented.
I chose the Coq au Vin.
Traditionally
prepared
and offering three pieces of
chicken, mushrooms, bacon
and a delectable red wine
sauce; more bread please! Both
entrees were repeat-worthy.
Other entrees included
Coquilles Saint-Jacques, Beef
Short Ribs, Duck, and, of
course, Steak Frites. I have a
L
feeling that any one of the
several entrees would come
out of that kitchen in a
spectacular way!
Yes, we did indulge in the
souffle. It does require advance
notice as you start your meal,
but will be brought to you at
the proper time after dinner.
The flavor du jour for us was
Creme Anglaise. Do not miss
this dessert! One of the best
ever, it was light and fluffy
and when the server pierced
it to pour in the sauce… well,
you can imagine!
A varied wine and cocktail
list added to our experience at
Et Voila. Waitstaff was very
attentive, yet did not intrude.
Not only is this a go-to close
to Kensington, but would be
a great place to take guests
when you want to show off a
star local restaurant!
Dinner nightly, happy
hour and brunch on
weekends! Check their
website for details. n
www.etvoilabistro.com
3015 Adams Avenue San
Diego 92116
CRÈME FRAÎCHE FROSTING
• 1 cup heavy cream or
whipping cream
• 1 cup crème fraîche
• 2 – 3 tbsp organic sugar
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract, preferably
bourbon-based
• 1 pinch kosher salt
• 8 oz orange marmalade
BEEF
STEW
CAKE DIRECTIONS
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat
two 9-inch cake pans with non-stick
spray or softened butter. Trace the
outside of each pan onto a piece of
parchment paper, then cut it out.
Place a piece of parchment inside each
pan, and coat that with more nonstick spray. Set aside.
Add the softened butter,
sugar, and salt to the bowl of an
electric stand mixer. With a paddle
attachment, beat the butter mixture
on medium speed until it becomes
light and fluffy, about 4 minutes.
Scrape the sides down once or
twice, to make sure the sugar is
fully incorporated. Still on medium
speed, add the eggs, one at a time.
Beat the mixture for 30 seconds
before adding the next egg, and
repeat until all the eggs are added.
Then, on the highest speed, beat
the mixture for 2 minutes to whip
the eggs and incorporate as much
air as possible.
Add the Steam Beer, vanilla
extract, and orange blossom water
or extract (or 2 tablespoons orange
juice and 1 teaspoon orange zest) to a
liquid measuring cup. Set aside.
In a large bowl, sift together
the flour, buttermilk powder, and
baking powder. Using a spatula,
add the dry ingredients to the butter
compound, then top with the beer
mixture. On low speed, mix the
ingredients until the batter just
forms. Turn off the motor and
remove the bowl. Scrape around
the bottom and sides to make sure
all the ingredients combine, but
don’t over-mix, which will cause the
resulting cake to be tough. Divide
the batter evenly into each pan,
(the easiest way to do this is with a
kitchen scale, making the two pans
of batter weigh the same will ensure
even layers and a uniform baking
time.) Bake in the center of the oven
for 28 – 30 minutes, or until the
internal temperature reaches 200°F.
Remove from the oven and cool to
room temperature before frosting.
ANCHOR STEAM ORANGE
MARMALADE SYRUP
As the cake is baking, add the
beer, marmalade, and sugar to a
saucepan over medium heat. Bring
to a boil, cooking for 2 minutes,
until the marmalade and sugar have
dissolved. There will still be pieces of
fruit and/or peel, which is OK. Turn
off the heat and cool.
CRÈME FRAÎCHE FROSTING
In a bowl, add the cream, crème
fraîche, sugar, and salt. Whip the
mixture with a whisk until soft peaks
form. Set aside.
TO DECORATE
Invert the cakes onto a cooling
rack, removing their parchment paper.
Use a toothpick or another small
pointed object to make holes for the
Anchor Steam Orange Marmalade
Syrup to seep into the cake. Place one
cake round onto a platter or cake plate
and brush half of the syrup over its
surface, allowing time for the syrup
to soak through the cake. Spread the
orange marmalade over this cake layer,
and then top with the second cake
round. Brush the remaining beer syrup
onto this cake layer. Spread the Crème
Fraîche Frosting over the cake with an
offset spatula, making a pattern with
the tip of the tool. Refrigerate for at
least 2 hours before serving to allow for
the cake to absorb the syrup and firm.
Cut and serve. n
Published by Beer Advocate Magazine
CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLING SEASON
by John Crisafulli, Village Vino Kensington
DIRECTIONS:
HORSERADISH SOUR CREAM:
Combine sour cream, prepared horseradish and a drizzle of olive oil in a small bowl and
mix until thoroughly combined. Season with salt and pepper. Add a dollop of the mixture on
top of the stew and garnish with chopped chives.
Recipe courtesy of the Food Network
8
INGREDIENTS
• 1 cup unsalted butter, at room
temperature
• 2 cup organic sugar
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 6 jumbo eggs, at room
temperature
• 8 oz Anchor Steam or another
California Common
• 2 tsp vanilla extract, preferably
bourbon based
• 1/2 tsp orange blossom water or
orange extract
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 4 tbsp buttermilk powder
(available in most baking aisles)
• 1 tbsp baking powder
ANCHOR STEAM ORANGE
MARMALADE SYRUP
• 4 oz Anchor Steam or another
California Common
• 2 tbsp orange marmalade
• 2 tbsp organic sugar
TYLER FLORENCE
BEEF STEW
Preheat a large heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat with
the oil and butter. While the pan is heating, arrange the flour on a large dish. Season the
cubed beef with some salt and freshly ground black pepper and then toss in the flour to coat.
Shake off the excess flour and add the beef chunks in a single layer to the hot pan, being
careful not to over crowd the pan. You might have to work in batches. Thoroughly brown all of
the cubes on all sides. Once all the meat has been browned, remove it to a plate and reserve.
Add the wine to the pan and bring up to a simmer while you scrape the bottom of the
pan with a wooden spoon being to loosen up all those tasty bits. Once the wine has gotten
hot, add the browned meat, thyme, smashed garlic, orange zest strip, ground cloves, freshly
ground black pepper and salt, to taste, bay leaves and beef stock. Bring the mixture up to
a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook uncovered until the liquids start to
thicken, about 15 to 20 minutes. Cover and cook on low heat for 2 1/2 hours.
After 2 hours add halved potatoes, sliced carrots, pearl onions and mushrooms, along
with a pinch of sugar to balance out the acid from the red wine. Turn the heat up slightly and
simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes more, until the vegetables and meat are tender. Add the
frozen peas during the last minute of cooking. Season with salt and pepper and remove the
thyme sprigs.
To serve, place the stew in a soup bowl, garnish with parsley, drizzle with olive oil and
add a dollop of Horseradish Sour Cream. Right before serving, add a slice of Toasted Peasant
Bread half way submerged in the stew.
ast year I judged a homebrew
competition where a new
brewer made a California
Common with hops that gave the beer
an almost orange marmalade aftertaste.
This brew inspired me to blend Anchor
Steam and orange marmalade together,
playing with the bitterness of both the
citrus peel and the hops in the beer.
Then, to add another slightly sour
element to the mix, I frosted it with
a crème fraîche frosting. Serves:10-12
guests.
INGREDIENTS BEEF STEW
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, for frying, plus
more to drizzle
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 to 3 pounds beef chuck shoulder roast, cut
into 2-inch pieces (this cut is also called chuck
shoulder pot roast and chuck roast boneless)
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 bottle good quality dry red wine
(recommended: Burgundy)
• 8 fresh thyme sprigs
• 6 garlic cloves, smashed
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
1 orange, zest removed in 3 (1-inch) strips
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
2 bay leaves
2 1/2 cups beef stock
9 small new potatoes, scrubbed clean
and cut in 1/2
1/2 pound carrots, peeled and sliced
2 cups frozen pearl onions, a large handful
1 pound white mushrooms, cut in 1/2
1/2 pound garden peas, frozen or fresh
Fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped, for garnish
HORSERADISH SOUR CREAM:
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish Olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• Chives, finely chopped, as garnished
With the elections here in the U.S. now over, and regardless
of your preferred outcome, there is no better time to pour
yourself a glass of what some refer to sparkling Nectar and
celebrate your candidates win, mourn their loss, or forget it all
and celebrate the season. Champagne and sparkling wines are
the perfect complement to every celebration. With so many
options to choose from the choice of which to purchase and
enjoy can seem daunting.
Let’s start with some history of the bubbly concoction.
The Romans were the first to plant and cultivate vineyards
in Northeast France in the 5th century, now known as the
Champagne region. Only varietals grown and produced in
this region can claim the name of Champagne on their label.
However, for decades we have all gotten used to referring
to all sparkling wines as Champagne, despite the fact that
only those produced in Champagne, France should own that
designation. When Hugh Capet was crowned King of France
in 987, it took place in the Cathedral of Reims in the heart of
the Champagne region. This coronation started the tradition
of bringing successive monarchs to the region and the local
wine, a pale pinkish wine made of Pinot Noir grapes, was on
prominent display for the royal guests and their courts.
The Champagne bubbles that are now an appreciated
characteristic of the celebratory drink, were introduced
unintentionally. The cold winter temperatures prematurely
halted fermentation in the cellars, leaving dormant yeast cells
that would awaken in the warmth of spring and start fermenting
again. One of the byproducts of fermentation is the release of
carbon dioxide gas, which, if the wine is bottled, is trapped
inside the wine, causing intense pressure. The pressure inside
the weak, early French wine bottles often caused the bottles to
explode, creating havoc in the cellars. If the bottle survived, the
wine was found to contain bubbles, something that the early
Champenois were horrified to see, considering it a fault. As late
as the 17th century, Champenois wine makers, most notably
the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon (1638–1715), were still
trying to rid their wines of the bubbles.
Following the death of Louis XIV of France in 1715, the
& ADULT BEVERAGES
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FEATURED COCKTAIL
THE TOUCHDOWN
court of Philippe II, Duke of Orléans maade the sparkling
version of Champagne a favorite among the French nobility.
More Champenois wine makers attempted to make their wines
sparkle deliberately, but it took years for them to figure out how
to make bottles strong enough to withstand the pressure of the
Bubbly drink.
Fast forward to today, and the Champagne region is
producing more than 200 million bottles of Champagne
annually. It has become the drink of choice to celebrate many
moments in our lives, births, anniversaries, holidays, and
life’s daily successes. There are so many choices today from
French Champagnes, to Spanish Cava, domestic Sparkling
wines produced here in California. All have their own unique
characteristics, history, and tradition.
To simplify the choices, below are some of our favorite
Champagnes and top picks to taste and enjoy this season as we
ring in the coming New Year… Cheers!
Dhondt-Grellet, Dans Un Premier Temps
Champagne Savart Ouverture
Robert Moncuit Blanc de Blanc Brut
Robert Moncuit Les Chétillons 2008
Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru, Ambonnay NV
Larmandier-Bernier ‘Longitude’ Extra Brut, Champagne NV
Jean Vesselle Brut Reserve, Bouzy Rosé NV
Mousse Rosé ‘Tradition’ Brut NV
Hébrart Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
Vilmart ‘Cuvée Grand Cellier’ NV
INGREDIENTS
Are you ready for some football? I created this drink
especially for the Super Bowl which I have been told is one
of America’s favorite past times… so whether you are at the
Super Bowl party for the game, the food or the commercials
here is a delicious cocktail that is the perfect parlay to all of
the above!
• 1 1/2 oz. Karma Tequila
• Peroni Beer
• 1 oz. Cynar
• 2 750-ml bottles chilled
• 1/2 oz. Ginger Syrup
Prosecco
• 2 lime wedges
• Ice cubes
PREPARATION
In a shaker pour the Tequila and the Ginger Syrup and
then squeeze in the lime wedges and drop them into the mix.
Shake with ice for 5 fast seconds and pour it all into a long
drink glass (including your ice!) making sure to leave space at
the top for your remaining ingredients.
Now gently pour the Cynar at the side of the glass and
slowly so it will sink to the bottom creating a layer effect. Last
step, here we go now top it off with chilled Peroni beer … and
you have it! TOUCHDOWN!
The look is very appealing, citrusy yellow with a rich
brown bottom and the bright green skin of the limes add
some color and flair.
The scent is refreshing
and the taste, a great
combination between
the ginger and beer and
then counter balanced
from the bitterness of
the Cynar. No matter
which team you are
rooting for, this drink
is a clear winner!
by Jacopo Falleni
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