S T A R T I N G
A C AMPUS GARD EN
an informational toolkit
offered by
R E N E WA L
I nspire , E q uip & C o nnect
Credits:
Tyler Amy
Adam Daniel Arditi
Becca Jensen
Gretchen Peck
Contact Info:
Tyler P. Amy, Renewal National Coordinator,
Phone: 619-708-7202
Mail: PO Box 540, Buffalo, NY 14213
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.renewingcreation.org
PArtner ORganizations:
www.creationcsp.org
www.restoringeden.org
www.center4eleadership.org
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
1
Table of Contents
Starting a campus garden
Stage
Stage
Stage
Stage
Stage
One: Preliminary Planning and Goals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Two: Support and Permission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Three: Planning Garden Logistics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Four: Publicity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Five: Maintaining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Gardening Tips and Tricks
Picking A Plot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
To Raise Or To Raze? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
No-Till Gardening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Planning The Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Some Common Vegetables To Try Growing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Some Common Herbs To Try Growing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Combating Pests and Disease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 More Tips For Successful Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10
10
11
12
17
20
21
25
26
Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Appendices
Appendix A: Sample Garden Vision
(from the Grantham Community Garden) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
28
Appendix B: Sample Garden Program Objectives
(from the Grantham Community Garden) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
29
Appendix C: Sample Donation Request Letter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Appendix D: Sample Press Release . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Appendix E: Sample Garden Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
NetWorking resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Online Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
“One of the most important resources
that a garden makes available for use ,
is the gardener’s own
body.
A garden gives the body
the dignity of working
in its own support.
It is a way of rejoining
the human race.”
— Wendell Berry
Gardening Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 - 36
Further Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
2
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
3
S T AR T ING A C AM P U S GARDEN
“
“S
And the Lord God planted a garden in Eden, in the east; and there he
put the man whom he had formed.
— Genesis 2:8
tarting a garden on campus is a wonderful pursuit. Gardens bring food closer to home and
eliminate transportation energy expenditure. They educate students about how to grow food
and why it is important. They provide direct control over what chemicals are used on the produce.
Most importantly, in bringing us closer to the beauty of creation, they bring us closer to our remarkable Creator. Gardens serve as a reminder of God’s provision, his bountiful creation and our place
in it. As Genesis 2 points out, God places us in the garden “to till it and keep it”—forever establishing us as the stewards of his creation. Yet many times, the imperceptible forces of our daily lives
draw us away from this calling, this place we have in God’s creation. We drift away. We forget our
role as stewards. A garden is a great way to bring us back, to re-center us, and reconnect us with
the creation and our divine Creator. However, the task of starting a garden on campus can often
seem daunting without the proper tools. Below are some guidelines for what to think about and
what to do as you begin.
“Gardening
requires lots of water - most of it in the form of perspiration.”
Stage One: Preliminary Planning and Goals
1. 2. 3. ­ ­— Lou Erickson
Decide what your purpose is for starting a garden. Is it to educate students? Is
it to provide produce for students, the dining hall or the community? Write out
a vision! [See Appendix A: Sample Vision.]
Write out objectives to help you enact your vision. Objectives should be quantitative and measurable. They are important for keeping plans on track and
providing tangible goals.
Come to a consensus about your gardening ethics. Do you have guidelines for
gardening methods? Will it be organic? Will you use organic pesticides? Will
you use mechanized tools? Will you use no-till methods?
[See “No-Till Gardening” below.]
4.
Determine the size of the plot that you want to start with. It is best to start out
small and then expand little by little as you succeed.
5.Research! The more you know, the more likely you are to succeed. Although much knowledge is gained by experience, an immense amount can be learned
through reading and talking to experienced people. Read books, magazines and
Internet articles to learn as much as you can. Interview farmers and gardeners
4
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
to find out what works and what doesn’t work in your area.
6. Decide who will be responsible for starting and maintaining the garden.
7. Designate a core team with one or two leaders. These people will be the
impetus behind the project and will oversee and implement tasks, meetings,
and volunteers.
Draft a proposal. Clearly explain your purpose, objectives, and methods. This
not only keeps you organized and accountable, but it will help you secure
support and permission for the garden. The proposal should formally address
any concerns the administration might have and should include:
a. An overview of the project
b. Your vision statement.
c. An explanation of the benefits of a campus garden. Be sure to include specific
benefits to the college in addition to the more general social and environmental
benefits of a garden. Why is a campus garden needed?
d. Your goals and objectives. Goals are the overarching things you want to
accomplish; objectives are measurable outcomes.
e. A specific plan for the creation and management of the garden. This should include
who will take care of the garden, how it will be managed, what you intend to do
with the produce, and how you will promote the garden.
f. A tentative budget and timeline for the project.
g. A plan for measuring success.
h. Potential sites and layouts for the garden.
i. A contact list of students, faculty, and staff dedicated to establishing and
maintaining the garden.
Drafting a proposal is a challenging but important task so make sure you allow plenty of
time to complete it. You may need to revise the proposal several times before you submit it,
and revise it further before administrators accept it. [For an example of a comprehensive
proposal, check out the attached Grantham Community Garden plan.]
Stage Two: Support and Permission
1. Put immense effort into engaging the support of faculty and staff.
Administrators will be more likely to support a project that other faculty and
staff members support. Show them that you have thought about the different
campus stakeholders and their roles in the garden. Here are some people to
bring on board with your efforts and to meet with before you begin:
a. VP of Operations: will need to grant permission for the project.
b. Grounds Crew: will have knowledge about current processes on campus and may
be willing to loan out tools or other services.
c. Food Services: may be interested in using your produce in the dining hall.
d. Campus Outreach Center: may be interested in highlighting the garden as a means
of outreach to the community; they may also help recruit volunteers.
e. Biology Department: will be essential supporters and will most likely have valuable
advice to give.
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
5
f. Student Government Association: may be helpful in granting monetary support
and recognizing the garden as a club.
Stage Three: Planning Garden Logistics
Contact your campus’ administrators, faculty, and staff to set up meetings
1. 2.
Administrators provide permission and sometimes
funds, faculty often provide support, and staff often provide supplies. If an
e-mail goes unanswered, follow up with a phone call or office visit.
3. Contact local farmers and gardeners. Farmers and gardeners in the area have
a wealth of knowledge that they are often happy to share. Experience is key
to success and these people know how to work with regional factors such as
weather, pests, and suppliers. [See “Networking Resources and Online
and present your proposal.
Contact other student gardeners. Other students who have successfully
created campus gardens can provide advice for campus-specific hurdles, such
as securing administrative support, finding a plot on campus, etc.
[See “Networking Resources” for a list of campus gardens by region.]
Contact Renewal staff. Renewal is here to help you! Renewal can guide you
through the process, offer tips and advice, and act as an accountability partner
for accomplishing your goals.
6. Recruit helpers. Provide incentives such as a share of the produce or volunteer credit hours. You will be amazed at how many people want to help. A
good way to cover all your bases is to split into teams. Have the core people
assign jobs amongst themselves and also to the volunteers. Every time there
is a workday have a clear vision of what you need to accomplish and how you
will accomplish it so that people aren’t standing around wondering what to do.
One possible way to organize yourselves is for one person to be responsible
for one vegetable. That person researches planting, spacing, watering,
fertilizing, etc. Each person then has a team of volunteers that help with
planting, watering, and weeding for that specific vegetable.
You may also want to create a schedule for who is responsible for weeding and
watering on which days.
7. Explore funding options. See if your school has a “Special Projects
Fundraising Form”. They might be willing to give you a small budget to work
with. Does your environmental club have a budget that you can use? Check
online for grants and other funding options at dosomething.org.
5.
“
6
Renewal is here
of options may be partly up
to you but the final decision rests with campus administrators and staff. It is
good to have possible locations in mind but remember to be flexible because a
garden in a less-than-ideal location is better than no garden at all. Some factors
to think about when suggesting locations to decision-makers are:
a. Will it receive enough sun? You want as much sun as possible!
b. Will it be visible on campus or not? Some view visibility as a positive thing; others
view the garden as an eyesore that will negatively affect campus beauty. However, as
long as the garden is kept tidy and neat it will add to campus aesthetics instead of
detracting. Vandalism is another possible issue to keep in mind. Some think that a
garden will be less prone to mischievousness if it is in public view.
c. Is it close to a water source? Hauling water is a royal pain and a waste of time and
energy. The garden should be close enough to a water source so that only a hose is
needed for watering.
d. For more details on selecting a location, [See “Picking a Plot” below.]
Resources” for help finding and contacting farmers in your area.]
4.
Determine a location for the garden. Thinking
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Create a garden layout. Sketch out a plan for what goes where so that each
row is spaced correctly [See Appendix E: Sample Garden Layouts for ideas].
Decide if you want to use raised beds or not. [See “To Raise or Raze?” below.]
Start seedlings indoors. If you have access to a greenhouse, start seeds as
soon as possible in the spring, according to the instructions for each plant.
Decide how you will prepare the ground. Will you rent/borrow a rototiller
or just use human power and shovels? The soil will need to be tilled multiple
times before beginning, especially if it was previously grass. Get ahead of the
weeds by tilling initially, waiting several days and tilling again as soon as weed
seedlings start to appear.
Schedule workdays. Plan out when you will do each tilling, when you will lay
out the garden, and when you will plant seeds or prepared seedlings.
Find a planting schedule for your area. Check out veggieharvest.com to find
your hardiness zone. Seedlings will need to be started periodically throughout
the growing season in order to replant once the spring crops have passed.
Evaluate what tools and materials you will need. If buying supplies, write
a letter to the manager of garden stores and ask if there are discounts or
donations available. Keep the letter to one page, get permission to use your
school’s/group’s letterhead, and try delivering it in person. [See Appendix C:
Sample Donation Request Letter.]
to help you!”
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
7
Consider putting an ad in the campus and local papers asking for donations.
Also, don’t forget to look on craigslist and freecycle, and at garage sales, auctions, free
piles, etc. The campus grounds crew may also be willing to loan out tools.
Stage Five: Maintaining
1.
Keep pests away.
2.
Fertilize. It is best to use organic fertilizers such as compost, compost tea, manure, or fish emulsion instead of synthetic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers keep the
soil healthy and strong. Your school may have existing compost that you can incorporate into the soil before you plant each year. You may want to consider starting a
composting program if there is not one already in place. [See “Fertilizing” below.]
3.
Establish methods for maintaining momentum from year-to-year.
Some commonly used tools and materials include:
•
•
•
•
•
Rototiller
Shovels
Hoes
Pitchfork
Hose with
adjustable nozzle
• Spraying
equipment
8.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Small spades
Stakes
Twine
Potting soil
Buckets
Seedling trays
Seeds or transplants
Find a space to store tools and materials. Will you build a shed near the
garden? Is there a greenhouse you can access?
Will the maintenance department let you store tools in their buildings and if so
will you be able to have a key?
Stage Four: Publicity
1.
Engage the campus community. Educate students, faculty, and staff about
the new garden—its purpose, function, and how to get involved. Promote the
garden using campus media (closed circuit television, newspaper, chapel announcements, mass e-mails, weekly updates, etc.). Use social networking sites
such as Facebook, Twitter, and blogs. [Check out http://blogs.messiah.edu/
Keeping mammals, birds, and unwanted insects out of your
garden is one of your main tasks once the garden is in place. Utilize your local
cooperative extension to learn about tips for keeping pests away.
[Also see “Tips for Combating Pests” below.] Fencing is a good option for keeping mammals out. A fence also deters unwanted human traffic through the space.
Here are
some suggested ways to do this:
a. Work with an established club on campus.
b. Work with faculty and staff who will help future students.
c. Keep copious notes! Write down everything: who to contact, how to plant, when
to plant, methods that worked, methods that didn’t work. Keep a journal or
binder of all the information that you found to be helpful so that the next person doesn’t have to reinvent the wheel. If there is a lapse in student involvement
for a year or two, keep this binder with a faculty member or club who can pass it
on to the next students who attempt the project again.
d. Get a work-study position approved! Work with your VP of Operations and
faculty to find out about
the process for creating
a work-study position.
granthamcommunitygarden/ for a sample garden blog.]
2.
3.
Host a kick-off event open to the entire community, complete with a
ground-breaking and ribbon-cutting ceremony. Once the garden is in full
swing, use it as a venue to host potlucks, campus bands, Bible studies, or game
nights. Have vegetable tastings! Use posters, sidewalk chalk, and class announcements for added promotion.
Engage the local community. Contact local reporters and ask them to do a
news story on your garden. Consider inviting members of the community to
an event at the garden. Coordinate with youth programs to use the garden as
an educational tool for kids who have never gardened before.
Engage the wider community. Organizations such as Renewal want to hear
about and help with projects like these. Creation care initiatives are published
in Renewal’s “Green Awakenings” report and highlighted on
renewingcreation.org.
8
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
“Fencing is a good option for keeping mammals out.
A fence also deters unwanted human traffic through the space.”
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
9
GARDENING T I P S AND T RI C K S PICKING A PLOT
NO-TILL GARDENING
M
No-till (or zero tillage) gardening is a relatively new practice developed in part by
Japanese farmer Masanobu Fukuoka. This method involves little disturbance of
the soil in contrast to traditional farming where the soil is broken up multiple times
each season. No-till preserves the soil’s structure and ecosystems, acts as a carbon
sink, contains higher densities of earthworms and microorganisms, and decreases
water evaporation rates. The drawbacks include more weeds, having to learn new
farming techniques, and poorer drainage in some areas. When done correctly,
no-till can yield equally productive crops as traditional methods. For more
information check out rodaleinstitute.org/no-till_revolution
any factors ranging from campus aesthetics to administrative and building plans influence the
location of the campus garden. Often, administrators and campus operations personnel have
their own plans and objectives about where to plant the garden. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to
have some potential garden locations scoped out. Here are some attributes to keep in mind when
selecting a location for your campus garden:
Ideally, the garden should receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight
a day. Check locations in early fall when any surrounding trees are in full leaf. If
you do not have access to a full sun location, consider planting vegetables that can
survive with less sunlight such as broccoli, cabbage, and beans.
Full Sunlight:
Fertile Soil: If a plot is naturally bare of grass and weeds, the soil is infertile,
making it a bad location for a garden. Also observe any surrounding plants; tall
trees too close to the garden, for example, will not only block sunlight, but may also
rob water and nutrients from other plants.
The term drainage refers to how fast water poured onto the soil
surface absorbs into the subsoil. Soil that drains too quickly or too slowly can
impair your plants’ growth. To test your soil’s drainage, dig a hole approximately 1
foot deep by ½ foot wide, fill it with water, and let it drain. The following day, fill
the hole with water again and let it drain, timing it to see how long it takes all the
water to disappear from the hole. If the water takes less than 5 minutes or more
than an hour to drain, the soil has poor drainage. In other words, it either cannot
hold moisture long enough to effectively nourish plants, or it holds moisture so
long that it will drown plants or rot their root systems. However, you can correct all
drainage issues by adding organic matter (compost) to the soil.
Good Drainage:
Pros of Raised Beds
Cons of Raised Beds
•
•
•
•
•
• Much more intital work
• Stationary
• More expensive
• Soil heats faster
• No space wasted
Once you select a location and method, it’s time to start planning your garden
layout. Start by deciding what you want to plant. Talk to farmers and other
gardeners to find out what grows well in your area. Research plants that interest you
to find out if they will thrive in your climate and in the type/size garden you will
have. Keep in mind that the college-semester season and the growing season
are not necessarily aligned. Cool-weather
plants might be a better option, as the
majority of the planting and harvesting work that the college-semester
can be done at the end of the spring semester season and the growing
and the beginning of the fall semester.
season are not
necessarily aligned.”
“Keep in mind
Early spring plants include: asparagus, broccoli, cabbage, onions, peas,
spinach, & turnips.
TO RAISE OR RAZE?
More drainage
Less bending
Visually appealing
More space
Harder for rabbits and
groundhogs to get to
PLANNING THE GARDEN
Late summer/fall plants include: beets, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard,
spinach, & turnips.
General Layout Guidelines:
• Maximize space by planting vegetables that can be trellised, such as pole
beans or peas.
• Plant tall and/or trellised plants on the north side of the garden to prevent
them from casting a shadow on shorter plants. Likewise, plant the shortest
plants on the southernmost side of the garden.
• [See Appendix E: Sample Garden Layouts.]
between rows
10
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
11
Companion Planting: Some plants, when grown together, can help save space, improve soil conditions, fend off pests, and increase crop yield. On the other hand,
some plants should be kept apart to prevent disease spread, pest damage, competition, and nutrient-robbing. Below are listed some of these good and bad neighbor
plants. For more information and resources about companion planting, visit the
National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service site at
https://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/complant.html
Plant
Good Neighbors
Bad Neighbors
Asparagus
Tomatoes, parsley, basil
Onions, leeks, garlic
Green
Beans
Carrots, potatoes, corn, cauliflower,
cabbage, celery, cucumbers, eggplant
Onions, sunflowers, kohlrabi,
beets
Beets
Kohlrabi, onions
Pole beans
Carrots
Peas, lettuce, chives, onions, leeks,
rosemary, tomatoes
Dill
Eggplant
Green beans, marigolds
Lettuce
Carrots, radishes,
strawberries, cucumbers
Peas
Almost all other vegetables
Onions, garlic
Potatoes
Horseradish, beans, corn,
cabbage, marigolds,
lima beans, eggplant
Pumpkins, squash,
sunflowers, tomatoes,
raspberries, cucumbers
Spinach
Strawberries
Squash
Corn, nasturtiums,
marigolds
Potatoes
Tomatoes
Parsley, asparagus,
carrots, basil
Potatoes, fennel, cabbage
12
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
SOME COMMON VEGETABLES TO TRY GROWING
Tomatoes: Start seedlings indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. A week
before planting in the garden, gradually harden off the plants. Start by placing
them outside for part of the day or outside in the shade and gradually increase the
amount of sun they receive each day. Transplant after all danger of frost has passed
and place containers over the plants if frost is predicted. Plant deeply enough so
that the lowest branches are barely exposed. Insert stakes at least 5 feet tall and tie
plants to stakes as they grow up. Take care not to use string that will damage the
stems. Pieces of cloth work well. If you want fewer and larger fruit prune plants
by plucking off suckers. Suckers are a third stem that grow between the main stem
and a branching stem. Mulch around plants to conserve moisture. Water at least
an inch per week, taking care not to get water on the leaves so that plants are not
prone to disease. Apply compost around plants a couple times a season. Intersperse
non-nightshade family plants between rows of tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and
eggplants to prevent nightshade diseases from spreading.
Peppers: Plant seedlings in peat pots that can be planted directly in the ground
as peppers do not respond well to root damage. Put in the ground 2 to 3 weeks
after the last frost on a cloudy day, if possible, to avoid sun scorch. Plants should
be staked if in a place with high winds. Straw or grass clippings are a good mulch
to keep soil moist but not wet. If the garden is in full sun where daily temperatures
exceed 90˚F, plant taller plants nearby to shade the peppers.
Squash: Summer squash, including zucchini and yellow crookneck mature early
and produce throughout the growing season. Winter squash such as spaghetti,
acorn, and butternut produce firmer fruit and mature later. Plant squash in hills to
give them warm, well-drained soil. Sow seeds directly in the ground a week after
the last danger of frost. Thin to two plants per hill. Avoid getting water on leaves
or touching them when they are wet to avoid disease. Once vines begin to grow,
spread compost and mulch over soil. Plants produce male and female flowers; the
former must fertilize the latter through insect pollination. If female flowers are
not fertilized they will drop off. You can fertilize manually by swabbing the male
stamen and applying pollen to the female pistil or by swirling a male flower inside
a female one. Females have a slight bulge on the stem under the flower and males
do not. To encourage side growth, pinch off the vine’s growing ends once they
have reached about 5 feet long. Also, for winter squash, pinch off any flowers after
midsummer because any fruit that has not yet set will not have time to ripen.
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
13
Peas: Peas are one of the first vegetables to plant and harvest in the spring. Seeds
can be direct-seeded into the ground 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. Depending
on the variety you might need to provide a trellis or stakes to support the plants.
Peas can also yield a fall crop if planted in the late summer. For spring crops, plant
in raised rows for warmer soil. Peas are nitrogen-fixers so they do not need added
nitrogen; in fact they will produce many leaves and few peas if they receive too
much nitrogen. Don’t plant peas near garlic or onions. Give plants ½ an inch of
water a week until they flower and then 1 inch after that. When plants finish producing, leave the roots in the ground to nourish the soil
PLEASE eat your
peas!
­ ­— The Universal Mother
Carrots: Soil type will influence which types of carrots are best to plant. Stocky,
shorter varieties are good for dense soils and longer varieties for loose soil. Carrots
should be direct-seeded in loosened soil 3 weeks before last frost. They can be
planted throughout the summer up until 2 or 3 months before the first frost in the
fall. Prevent pests from finding carrots by covering them with a row cover. This
may also prevent diseases that are spread by insects.
Eggplant: Start eggplant seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. When
all danger of frost has passed, eggplants can be hardened off and planted in the
garden. Mulch around the plants once they are established. Give eggplants about
1 inch of water a week throughout the growing season. Harvest eggplant once the
fruits are big enough to use, as eggplants picked earlier have a better flavor.
Lettuce: Lettuce is easy to grow and can be enjoyed throughout the season with
successive plantings. In the summer, plant heat-resistant varieties in shady areas.
Make sure plants receive an inch of water a week, preferably in the morning so
leaves don’t remain wet overnight. Apply compost once or twice during the season.
To keep plants from bolting (going to seed), pinch off the center of the plant if it
starts to elongate. Harvest outside leaves and the plant will continue to produce, or
harvest the whole head.
Spinach: Spinach is a cool weather crop that is grown best in spring or late
summer/fall. Seeds can be planted up to 6 weeks before the last frost in nitrogenrich, well-loosened soil. Plants should be thinned 4 to 6 inches apart and fed with
compost tea. Keep soil free of weeds by spreading mulch instead of cultivating
manually. If plants don’t receive enough water they will go to seed (bolt). Plants will
keep producing if outer leaves are harvested.
Green Beans: Green beans come in two types: bush beans (also called snap
or string beans) and pole beans. Bush beans grow in bushy self-supporting plants,
while pole beans grow on a climbing vine that requires the external support of a
trellis, fence, etc. Both varieties are warm-weather crops that should be planted 2
to 4 weeks after the last frost. Green beans have a fairly short growing time—only
about 58 to 65 days. When the beans are crisp, firm, and fully elongated they are
ready to be picked. Make sure you pick the beans before the seeds within the bean
pods are fully developed; this ensures a better tasting bean and encourages the bean
plant to keep producing throughout the summer.
14
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
15
Potatoes: Potatoes prefer cooler weather and may yield less if exposed to
temperatures over 90°F. Plant potatoes two weeks before the last frost and, if you
live in a warmer climate, make sure you plant a variety that matures in the early/
mid-season. Potatoes grow from seed potatoes, which should be stored in the
fridge until use. One week before planting, place the seed potatoes in a warm bright
window. Plant the seed pieces 1 to 3 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. In general, potatoes need their space, so try not to plant other vegetables or flowers too
close. Avoid planting potatoes close to tomatoes, in particular, as they share some
diseases. Once the potato plant starts to grow above the surface, you will need to
begin gradually building a low ridge of soil around the plant. This ridge—which
should be 4 to 6 inches deep by the beginning of the summer—prevents potatoes
from getting “sunburned” and turning green. Harvest times for potatoes depend
on the variety. Some early varieties can be harvested within 60 to 120 days of
planting. In general, you can harvest new potatoes when the potato plant starts to
blossom and mature potatoes when the plant starts to whither.
Beets: Plant beets directly in the ground 4 weeks before last frost in loose soil.
They grow best in cooler temperatures; however, germination rates may be
improved in the summer if seeds are soaked for 12 hours prior to planting. When
roots get to be 1 inch in diameter, thin them to 1 plant to every 2 inches. Plants
need about an inch of water per week and should be watered with compost tea
every couple weeks. Eat the greens as well as the roots!
16
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Broccoli: Start broccoli seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost by
planting seeds ½ to ¼ inch deep in soil-filled pots or flats. Harden the seedlings off
about 2 weeks before the last frost and transplant in the garden. Broccoli can
survive in full sun or light shade; however, as broccoli plants can grow to nearly
3 feet tall, be sure to plant them where they will not shade other plants. Mulch
around the plants and/or use cardboard collars to protect them from pests and
cold weather. Give broccoli 1 to 2 inches of water per week and add extra fertilizer or compost when heads start to form. Harvest the central head after it reaches
approximately 4 to 6 inches in diameter, but before the buds blossom into yellow
flowers. When you harvest the head, the buds should be large, firm, and compact.
Removing the central head often encourages side sprouting, but these later heads
may only reach 1 to 2 inches in diameter.
r
B
o
c
e
c
r
o
a
l
i
h
!
S
The
!
!!
Asparagus: Asparagus is a perennial plant that can last 15 to 20 years if well
cared for—in fact, some asparagus beds have lasted 30 years. Asparagus can be
started from seeds or from the crowns of one-year-old plants. Starting from seeds
takes considerably longer; however, it gives you more control and access to different varieties of asparagus. Before planting, soak seeds in water for a few hours or
overnight to encourage germination. Plant seeds ½ inch deep and 2 inches apart
in a temporary location in the spring (around mid-April for best results). When the
asparagus seedlings emerge and reach about 6 inches high, thin the plants to about
18 inches apart. The following spring, transplant the asparagus to the permanent
bed after the last chance of frost has passed. If you choose to start from crowns,
plant them in early spring as soon as you can work the soil. Plant either seedlings or
crowns about 5 to 6 inches deep (if using crowns, make sure you plant them with
the bud side up and the roots spread uniformly beneath the crown). Cover loosely
with soil. Spears should emerge after about 1 week. You will not be able to harvest
asparagus the first year you plant it in the permanent bed; however, you do need to
keep the bed well watered and weeded. The following spring, harvest asparagus by
snapping off 7 to 9 inch spears with tight tips. To avoid tough, woody asparagus,
make sure you harvest spears before the tips begin to loosen or fern-out.
Radishes: Plant radish seeds directly in the garden in full sun to part shade as
soon as the soil can be worked in the spring—ideally when the lowest day
temperatures are about 45°F and the lowest night temperatures are 35°F. When
the plants reach 1 to 2 inches high, thin to 2 to 3 inches apart (the baby radishes
thinned out or harvested at this point can be eaten). Keep the soil moist, but do
not over-water. Radish plants generally mature after 25 to 30 days. To ensure radish
harvests through the month of May, plant radishes in successive plantings every 2
weeks starting in March or April.
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
17
SOME COMMON HERBS TO TRY GROWING
Herbs are versatile and fairly simple to grow. Start seeds indoors in the early spring.
Place seeds in small, compost/soil filled flower pots and cover with a thin layer of
compost/soil. To keep soil moist and aid germination, cover the entire pot with
plastic cling wrap. Place seedlings in a warm, sunny window. Remove cling wrap
once the seeds start to sprout. When the herbs begin to out-grow their pots, they
are ready to be transplanted into the garden. Before transplanting the herbs, harden
them off by placing them outside for part of the day and gradually increasing the
amount of sunlight they receive. Different herbs have different water and sunlight
requirements, so be sure to follow the guidelines for your variety. Some popular
garden herbs include:
Basil: Basil is one of the most popular garden herbs world-wide both for its
delicious flavor and rapid growth. Basil seeds germinate in 5 to 7 days, but can be
planted and grown indoors 6 to 8 weeks before all danger of frost has passed. Place
seeds in soil-filled pots and cover with ¼ inch of soil. Keep soil evenly moist but
avoid any excess watering. When seedlings have two to three sets of leaves, they
can be hardened off and transplanted outside. Plant basil seedlings 6 to 12 inches
apart in an area that receives full sun. For a bushier plant and better flavored leaves,
prune regularly and pinch off flowers as they appear. Basil will not survive the
winter outside and should therefore be potted and brought indoors as soon as the
weather starts to cool.
Cilantro: Cilantro enjoys cooler weather and can be started from seed outside
in early spring. Once all chance of frost has passed, sow cilantro seeds ½ deep
and 1 inch apart in rows spaced 15 inches apart. Seeds should germinate in 7 to 10
days. Once true leaves (usually the second set of leaves, see tips below) appear, thin
cilantro seedlings to 12 inches apart. Start harvesting leaves when the cilantro plant
reaches about 6 inches tall. For better leaves, prune regularly. Cilantro will re-seed
itself and grow back in the spring if left in the garden, un-pruned, in the
fall/winter.
Oregano: Start oregano seeds indoors before the last frost. Seeds will germinate
in about a week if placed in a warm, sunny window. Once seedlings reach about 6
inches and all chance of frost has passed, oregano can be hardened off and planted
in the garden. Space plants about 12 inches apart in full sun. Like other Mediterranean herbs, oregano prefers well-drained soiled, so be sure to water only every two
days during the growing season. Harvest leaves as needed, making sure to pinch
off flowers to ensure a bushier plant. Oregano can survive the winter outside if
insulated with mulch or straw.
18
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Parsley: Parsley is notorious for germinating slowly and transplanting poorly, and
should therefore be planted directly in the garden or in a pot that can be moved
outside. Soak seeds overnight in warm water before planting. In early spring, before the
last frost, sow seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep in rows 10 to 12 inches apart in full sun or part
shade if you live in a warmer climate.
Sage: Like rosemary, sage can be
Seedlings will appear in about 4 weeks and
grown from seeds or cuttings. If startshould be thinned to 6 inches apart. Keep
ing from seeds, be aware that they may
parsley in moist soil by watering regularly.
take up to 6 weeks to germinate. Sow
Parsley is a perennial plant and will survive the
sage seeds directly in the garden in
winter if it is well mulched.
late spring. Plant seeds 1/8 inch deep
Rosemary: Rosemary can be started from
seed or from cuttings from an established
plant. If starting from seed, soak seeds in
water for 3 hours before planting and plant
indoors 6 weeks before the last frost.
Rosemary seeds germinate in about 10 to
25 days. When seedlings are at least 3 inches
high and somewhat sturdy, they are ready to
be hardened off and planted in the garden.
Alternatively, you can start rosemary with
cuttings from an already established plant.
Snip about 2 inches of new growth from the
established plant, remove the bottom inch
of leaves and dip the end of the cutting in a
rooting hormone then place the cutting in a
pot of well drained soil. Once new growth
appears on the cutting, it can be planted
in the garden. Plant rosemary seedlings or
cuttings about 3 inches deep in rows spaced
10 to 20 inches apart in an area that receives
full sun. Only water rosemary when the soil
appears dry. Regular harvesting will ensure a
bushier plant. Unless you live in a very warm
climate, rosemary must be taken indoors during the winter months.
in an area that receives full sun. Once
seedlings reach 4 inches, thin them to
about 2 feet apart. If you choose to
start from cuttings, take them from
a mature plant in the spring. Dip the
ends in rooting hormone, plant in a
pot filled with soil, cover with plastic
wrap, and place in indirect sunlight.
When new growth appears on the
cutting, it can be moved to the garden.
Water seedlings and young cuttings
regularly to keep the soil moist; however, once the plants are established
only water during dry weather. Harvest
sage as needed prior to blooming. Sage
is a perennial herb and will usually
grow back in the spring even if the
plant appears to die in the winter.
“ Are you going to
S c a r b or o u g h
F a i r ?”
— Simon & Garfunkel
Thyme: Thyme is an incredibly low maintenance and versatile plant. Sow seeds indoors
in March using light soil or potting mix (thyme seeds are very fine and may not
germinate properly if covered with too heavy a layer of soil). Thyme seeds usually
germinate in about one week if kept in a warm place. When plants are about 4 inches
high and all chance of a frost has passed, thyme can be hardened off and planted in the
garden. Plant thyme plants about 12 inches apart in an area that receives full sun and
only water during dry weather. The first year you plant thyme, harvest very lightly or not
at all. After the first year, thyme sprigs can be harvested year-round, although it will taste
best in June and July. Thyme can withstand winter outside if mulched well in October.
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
19
More Herb Tips:
True or False Leaves: When growing herbs from seed, you may hear the term
“true leaves” used. That’s because the first set of leaves a seedling grows are seed
or “false” leaves—they are often rounded and do not resemble the plant’s mature
foliage. The second leaves to sprout are usually the true leaves and will more closely
resemble a plant’s natural adult foliage.
Good Neighbors: Herbs often make great companion plants for vegetables by
helping to deter certain pests or even improving the plant’s growth. Spearmint,
garlic, and onions, for example, can repel aphids and rabbits from vegetables, while
basil and thyme can help tomatoes grow better.
Types: In order to maintain healthy crops, plants need to receive enough
nutrients from their surroundings. Primary nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus,
and potassium; secondary nutrients include calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Most
fertilizers contain primary nutrients as these are used in higher quantities by the
plants. Many organic materials can be used as fertilizers such as bone meal, fish
emulsion, home compost, manure, kelp, guano, seed meals, lime (for calcium), and
green manures.
Bone Meal: As the name suggests, bone meal is a powder-like substance made
from crushed and/or coarsely ground bones (usually from cattle). Bone meal adds
phosphorous and calcium to the soil, which helps plants flower and improves yearly
perennial renewal. However, bone meal is an incomplete fertilizer (it does not
contain potassium) as well as a slow-release fertilizer, and may therefore need to be
used in conjunction with other fertilizers. Work bone meal into the soil
before planting.
Fish Emulsion: Fish emulsion, a fast absorbing liquid fertilizer, is made from
by-products of the fish oil and meal industry. It contains nitrogen and
phosphorous, which aid in the development of leafy greens and blossoms. Fish
emulsion can also improve root development and disease control. Dilute fish
emulsion in water and spray on foliage in the morning or use it to water plants.
”
Earth
knows no desolation.
in the moist breath of
Compost Tea:
1. Fill a 5-gallon bucket 1/3 with compost and the rest with water. Stir.
2. Let sit for 2 days.
3. Strain.
FERTILIZING
She smells regeneration
Compost: Compost is the natural decomposition of organic matter. The garden
provides material for the compost system, where it breaks down, ready to feed the
garden and grow into a plant again. Compost is an easy and economical way to
replenish the soil each year. Before planting, till in an at least an inch of compost
over the garden area. If using animal manure in the compost pile, make sure the
manure has completely decomposed as it may contain weed seeds and may also
burn the plants.
4. Dilute with water until tea is the color of apple juice.
5. Water plants with it!
Seaweed: Seaweed, in particular kelp, makes a great—not to mention versatile —
fertilizer for the vegetable garden. It can be used as a mulch, compost activator, and
foliar spray. Not only is it a good source of organic matter, seaweed also contains
nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, which strengthen plants from root to limb
and help prevent soil borne diseases. Lay strands of fresh kelp at the base of plants
where it will first act as mulch and then decay into the ground, improving the soil.
You could also mix it into the compost pile or make kelp tea to use as a foliar spray.
Kelp Tea:
1. Fill a 5-gallon bucket with 2 gallons of water.
2. Add 1 ½ to 2 pounds kelp, chopped.
3. Seal the bucket and let it sit for 3 to 4 days in a shady place outside.
4. Strain. Toss the extra seaweed pieces in the compost pile.
5. Use it as a foliar spray by mixing 1 part kelp tea with 2 parts water and
spraying it on plants about twice a month.
Green Manure: Plants that are grown in between periods of vegetable
cultivation are called green manures. These crops add organic matter to the soil,
replace nutrients, increase soil microbial activity, aerate the soil, suppress weeds,
and limit soil erosion and water evaporation. Some crops, such as hairy vetch, red
clover, and lupines are especially beneficial because they are nitrogen-fixers. In
northern latitudes, hairy vetch and rye are good options that will endure the cold,
although rye is not a nitrogen-fixer.
decay.”
— George Meredith
20
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
21
COMBATING PESTS AND DISEASE
Rotating crops is important for keeping pests away and also for replenishing the soil. Diseases in the soil are often species- or family-specific and may
remain inactive if the right plant is not present. Below is a general rule of thumb to
follow for rotations:
Rotate Crops:
Roots:
Others:
Potatoes, carrots,
beets, etc
Beans, lettuce, peas,
onions
Brassicas:
Brussels sprouts,
cabbage, cauliflower,
turnips
When planting, follow spacing instructions on the seed packet or in a
gardening book. Adequate airflow can prevent diseases and is diminished when
plants are too close to each other.
Spacing:
Some varieties are bred to be resistant to certain types
of diseases. Find out what types of diseases are common in your area and then
purchase varieties that are resistant to those diseases.
Disease-Resistant Varieties:
Healthy plants have some ability to defend themselves with
their own chemical repellents. Keep plants well fed and watered to maximize their
potential.
Natural Defenses:
Plant Repellents:
Some plants naturally deter certain animals.
• Nasturtiums deter the cucumber beetle and Mexican bean beetle.
• Mint deters white flies off of beans.
• Carrots and onions deter each other’s predators (so plant them together!).
Organic pesticides can be sprayed on
plants to combat some plant predators. It is important to note that even organic
pesticides can harm beneficial garden creatures so keep spraying to a minimum if
this is a risk with the pesticide you are using. Some problems will require a
combination of many different approaches. Just make sure to identify the pest
before you squash it because not all bugs are bad! Below are some common pests
and diseases and their possible solutions.
Organic Pesticides and Other Deterrents:
22
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Common Pests:
Deer: A fence is the most effective way to keep deer out of the garden. The fence
should be 8 feet high if perpendicular, or 6 feet high and slanted outward at a 45°
angle. If you cannot install a fence, try tying white pieces of fabric on a string
around the garden. Chili peppers, ammonia, eggs, blood meal, and soap are also
options to try (although probably not altogether!). Make a solution and spray
onto plants.
Rabbits: Like deer, rabbits are best kept out of the garden with a fence. The fence
does not have to be very high, but it should extend about 2 feet underground. To
prevent rabbits from burrowing under the fence, make an L shaped barricade out
of chicken wire that extends 18 to 24 inches underground and 12 to 24 inches out
(once underground). Make sure you use fencing material with a finer weave to
prevent baby rabbits from trying to squirm through the spaces. If you cannot put
up a fence, try planting a marigold barricade around your garden or spraying plants
with hot pepper spray. If you choose to use a spray, make sure you apply it frequently early in the season so that rabbits get into the habit of eating elsewhere—
you can reduce usage as the season progresses. Also, since rabbits feed at night,
apply sprays late in the day.
Trap them in live animal traps and release where they won’t be a
nuisance. An L shaped fence also works well against them.
Woodchucks:
Slugs: Place containers of beer flush with the ground. The slugs are attracted to
the yeast and will fall in. Alternatively, try putting a board down in or near the
garden. In the morning, turn the board over and collect the slugs. Another slug collector is a head of cabbage. Use chopsticks or gloves to manually remove slugs and
drown them in salt or bleach solution. You can also stop slugs by placing sawdust
around plants as it is difficult for slugs to cross it. Keep the garden well drained and
remove newspapers or other slug hiding places.
Hang shiny things around the affected plants. Try can lids, cds, or pieces of
aluminum foil. Install netting or wire mesh frames around plants. It is hard to keep
some birds in and some out; however, starlings, blackbirds, and thrushes do eat
insects and may benefit the garden.
Birds:
Cucumber beetles: Spray kaolin clay on the plants. Reapply after it rains. Hand-pick
beetles off of the plants in the morning when the bugs are slow-moving.
Squash bugs cause the plants’ leaves to wilt and turn black. Bugs can
be trapped by laying a board down at night and plucking them off in the morning.
Plant nasturtiums, marigolds, and radishes nearby to deter them.
Squash bugs:
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
23
Squash vine borers: Borer
larvae are inch-long whitish caterpillars that cause the
vine to wilt when they tunnel into it. Remove larvae from stems by slicing the stem
at the base. Look for sawdust-like droppings on soil to identify the borer. Cover
sliced stem with soil to encourage new root growth.
Flea beetles:
Common Plant Diseases:
Wilts
Blights
Spray kaolin clay. Reapply after it rains.
Some animals are beneficial in the garden because they eat insects and other pests. Consider introducing some of these little guys and make sure
your pest control methods don’t kill the good with the bad.
Natural Predators:
• Ladybugs eat aphids, mealy bugs, and spider mites.
• Toads eat grubs, slugs, beetles, and other insects.
• Yellow jackets eat flies, caterpillars, and other larvae.
• Ground beetles eat cabbage root maggots, cutworms,
and snail and slug eggs.
• Tachinid flies lay eggs on cutworms, caterpillars, corn borers,
and stinkbugs
• Syrphid flies deposit eggs in aphid colonies.
• Aphid midges eat aphids.
• Dragonflies eat mosquitoes, gnats, and midges.
• Lacewing larvae eat aphids, scale insects, and small caterpillars
• Spiders and mites eat other mites, nematodes, insect eggs, fungus gnat
larvae, and thrips.
PeekaBoo!
Blight, Late Blight,
e.g. Early
Bacterial Blight
image courtesy of: oregonstate.edu
e.g. Verticillium Wilt,
Fusarium Wilt
image courtesy of: omafra.gov.on.ca
Mildew
Rusts
e.g. Asparagus Rust, Crown
image courtesy of:
www.gardenworldimages.com
Rust, Bean Rust
image courtesy of:
www.gardenvigor.com
Rots
e.g. Phytophthora, Brown Stem
Rot, Blossom-end Rot)
image courtesy of:
“Keep the garden well drained
and remove newspapers or other slug hiding places.”
www.plantpath.wisc.edu
Tips for Disease Prevention:
24
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
a. Try to purchase disease-resistant varieties
b. Rotate crops
c. Give plants the amount of water appropriate to their variety
d. Keep soil well drained
e. Space plants according to their variety to maintain good air-circulation
f. Avoid overhead watering (it can wash disease spores down into the soil)
g. Destroy any plants affected by disease and thoroughly clean any tools you used with that plant
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
25
MORE TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL GARDENS
CONCLUSION
Staggered Plantings: To get the most out of the growing season, stagger
plantings of vegetables so that they ripen at different times instead of all at once.
For example, start lettuce seeds every two weeks so that you will have lettuce for
the whole summer.
N
Water Needs: Most likely you will need to provide water for your garden
beyond what it gets from rainfall. There are a couple different watering techniques.
You can water manually with a hose or watering can or you can install drip irrigation tubing. The latter is much less time consuming but it may cost more. Either
way, each time you water make sure plants get a deep soaking. It is better to water
deeply less frequently than to water shallowly more frequently.
Sun Needs: Just about all vegetable plants thrive in the sun but some can survive
better than others without full sun.
Tomatoes
Peppers
Cucumbers
Squash
Eggplant
Radishes
Beets
Turnips
Onions
Carrots
Potatoes
Lettuce
Cabbage
Spinach
Greens
Parsley
Broccoli
Peas
Beans
ow that you have the tools and resources to start and maintain a garden on your campus,
don’t forget the most important piece of garden advice—enjoy it! Establishing and caring for
a garden, especially a campus garden, requires hard work and dedication. Gardening in general,
not to mention the process of gaining administrative approval, organizing busy college students,
and procuring funding and tools, can be extremely frustrating. When you find yourself feeling
frustrated and burnt out, remember what inspired you to start the garden in the first place. The
garden shouldn’t be a prolonged source of anxiety or stress, but a place to relieve anxiety and
stress. Whether you’re hosting an event or just gathering to weed and water, remember to have fun
in the garden. Ultimately, the garden is a space to connect with people and connect with God, so
take time to experience the joy of good soil, the wonder of growing plants, and the divine beauty of
God’s bounty!
“The earth has yielded its increase; God, our God,
has blessed us. May God continue to bless us;
let all
the ends of
the Earth
revere him.”
— Psalm 67:6-7
Heirloom vs. Hybrids: Heirloom seeds are those that have been open
pollinated, saved, and planted year after year. Different types gradually emerge
in different areas through saving and planting seeds with certain characteristics.
Hybrids have been artificially cross-pollinated to combine traits from different varieties. Heirloom varieties often taste better, have seeds that are true to their mother
plant, and ripen indeterminately (throughout the season). Hybrids generally hold up
better for shipping, mature earlier, have higher yields, and are often disease resistant.
Keeping Weeds Under Control: Weeding can be one of the biggest
frustrations of gardening. Beating weeds starts at the beginning. When preparing
your garden, till the soil, wait for a couple days until weed seedlings appear, then till
again; repeat once or twice more. Lay black biodegradable plastic over the ground
for another way to kill weeds. Once plants are in the ground, mulch can be laid
around them. Grass clippings, pine needles, seedless straw, tree bark, sawdust, and
newspaper can all be used as mulches. For complete light blockage, use cardboard
or biodegradable plastic.
2 67
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
2 78
A P P ENDI C E S
Appendix B: Sample Garden Program Objectives
Appendix A: Sample Garden Vision (from the Grantham Community Garden)
Year One Objectives:
The Grantham Community Garden is a student-inspired, student-led effort to
demonstrate and promote real-life concepts of sustainable agriculture—a necessary
dimension of holistic Christian stewardship. We plan to use this garden initiative as
a means to educate students, faculty, and the broader community about the benefits
of eating organic food and tapping into local farm economies for food resources.
Through participation in local and on-campus farmers markets, we hope to foster
greater interaction between campus residents, regional farmers, and the surrounding public. Besides utilizing Messiah College’s land resources to produce fresh and
healthy cafeteria food, a campus garden would allow the college to keep pace with
environmentally minded schools such as Dickinson College, Wilson College, and
Eastern University.
(from the Grantham Community Garden)
1. Develop and farm 0.25 acres
2. Fulfill the prescribed weekly harvest to Community Supported Agriculture
(CSA) shareholders, comprised of various Messiah College faculty
3. Sell a 25% yield of harvest to Lottie Nelson Dining Hall during September
and October
4. Sell a 5% yield of harvest to Farmer’s Markets:
a) Student Farmer’s Market: comprised of Messiah College apartment
students; to be operated variously during September and October
b) Mechanicsburg Farmer’s Market: to be operated during July and August
5. Create and utilize compost bins in Lottie Nelson
a) Operate a compost system that combines waste food from Lottie Nelson with waste materials currently composted by Building & Property
Services
6. Promote and exemplify sustainable ideas on campus through alternate
chapels in the Fall and Spring concerning:
a) Organic growing practices
b) Buying locally grown foods
c) Eating seasonally
d) Reducing general energy consumption
Year Two (and beyond) Objectives:
1. Expand garden size (as space allows, up to 1 acre)
2. Educate students and faculty on campus about the presence, function, and
benefits of our garden
3. Expand and renew CSA memberships
4. Reduce meal plans for students through supplying Lottie Nelson with a 25%
share of harvest between July and October
5. Generate enough revenue from CSA shareholders to hire a full-time garden
caretaker
6. Build a hoop-house & on-site greenhouse in order to extend the growing
season
7. 5% share of harvest donated to Harrisburg food bank
8. Involve local elementary schools and daycares by:
a) Giving tours of garden in conjunction with Oakes Museum visits
b) Allowing guided participation in garden maintenance, planting,
and harvesting
9. Incorporate sustainable agriculture into Environmental Science/Biology
curriculum
28
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
29
Appendix C: Sample Donation Request Letter
April 03, 2012
Hank’s Home Shop
Mr. Hank Handy
123 Butternut Blvd.
Greenleaf, NY 01010
Appendix D: Sample Press Release
Greenleaf State College
Contact: Dr. Lee Leafeater
Phone: (555) 123-4567
Email: [email protected]
For Immediate Release:
Dear Mr. Hank Handy:
Greetings! My name is Patty Pitchfork, and I am writing to you on behalf of the Greenleaf State College student-run garden club. It is a very exciting time to be a part of this
club, as we have been working diligently for the past several weeks to begin an organic
garden on campus. We would like to extend an invitation to you to join our efforts.
So far, we have petitioned the college administration and earned their support, worked
alongside the groundskeepers to secure the land for the project and begun garnering
support of fellow students, staff and faculty. The piece of the puzzle that we are missing is support from local people, businesses and organizations. That is why I write you
this letter.
Unfortunately, our group lacks the funds necessary to fully launch the garden project
at this time. Specifically, we are looking to secure 20 seedling containers, 100 feet of
garden hose and a small storage shed approximately 10’x10’. We would be very grateful
if you could help us reach our goals.
In partnering with us, you not only support us college students that will be managing
and overseeing the garden throughout the year, but you also support the local food bank
that we will provide fresh produce for and the local elementary school students who we
will host for work days.
Thank you for considering this opportunity to help us meet our needs and join in this
important and exciting endeavor. I will follow up via phone next week, or you may feel
free to contact me sooner.
Sincerely,
Patty Pitchfork
Secretary, Greenleaf State College Garden Club
Phone: 555-123-4567
Email: [email protected]
30
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
S hovels and H oes I nstead of B ooks and
P encils for S ome G reenleaf S tudents
Greenleaf, NY - With another academic year drawing to a close, one small
group of students and faculty at Greenleaf State College are just getting started. The student-run garden club recently petitioned the school’s administration
for one-quarter acre to convert into garden space. Since receiving approval only
one week ago and with only a few weeks left until classes dismiss, the garden
club has transformed the plot of land, previously used as an intramural
soccer field.
Garden club student president, Sam Shovelman, is excited about the recent
progress. “I’ve been wanting to see a garden constructed on campus for four
years now,” Shovel said. “It’s been very rewarding.”
Shovelman, alongside nearly a dozen others, began laboring last Saturday, when
the garden club hosted a workday with free breakfast for all participants.
“Some folks were rototilling, others were laying stones pathways,” said Shovelman. “I was constructing new compost bins.”
Hank’s Home Shop, a local home improvement store, donated thirty paving
stones for use on the garden’s pathways. “It’s simply a way we can give to a
good cause,” said Hank Handy, general manager of Hank’s Home Shop. The
garden club received additional donations from Grassy Greenhouses, Wild
Water Inc., and Herbie’s Herbs.
“I encouraged the students to get local businesses involved in the project,”
explains Dr. Lee Leafeater, professor of biology at the college and faculty advisor to the garden club. “Without the support of various local businesses, the
garden would not be ready for planting.”
As for the first seeds to enter the soil, Shovelman was excited about the chance
of growing peppers, onions and tomatoes.
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
31
Appendix E: Sample Garden Layout
NE T W O R K ING RE S O U R C E S
FOUR SQUARE GARDEN:
C
Heavy Feeders:
Soil Builders:
Asparagus
peas
corn
green beans
Squash
lima beans
Large Leafed plants
other legumes
Middle Feeders:
Light Feeders:
tomatoes
carrots
peppers
onions
medium leafed plants
beets
West:
Midwest:
other root vegetables
Point Loma Nazarene University
Seattle Pacific University
Westmont College
Biola University
Azusa Pacific University
George Fox University
Wayland Baptist University
Baylor University
Oklahoma ChristianUniversity
Oral Roberts University
Whitworth University
Calvin College
Goshen College
Bethel University
Wheaton College
Moody Bible Institute
Dordt College
Grace College
MidAmerica Nazarene University
Anderson University
Concordia Seminary-St. Louis
Tabor College
Southeast:
Northeast and Canada:
Montreat College
Eastern Mennonite College
Milligan College
Belmont University
Carson-Newman College
Trevecca Nazarene University
Covenant College
St. Mary’s College of Maryland
Messiah College
Gordon College
Houghton College
Eastern Nazarene University
Philadelphia Biblical University
Waynesburg University
Dickinson College
Redeemer University College
Trinity Western University
The King’s University College
Crop Rotation
Crop Rotation
Crop Rotation
Crop Rotation
Block Garden:
Peas
cucumbers
lettuce
broccoli
Spinach
Strawberries
32
onnecting with local farmers, other college gardeners, and organic growers in general
contributes greatly to your chances of creating and maintaining a successful garden on your
campus. Local farmers and organic growers often possess a wealth of knowledge about the land,
plants, and challenges of growing in your area. They can provide you with tips on anything from
where to get seeds, to which plants thrive in your region, to which gardening methods work best,
etc. Talking with students from other schools with campus gardens can also increase your chances
of success. These students have already-established gardens on their campuses and can give
advice on how to organize a student group, gain faculty support, talk to administration, and other
potential challenges specific to the campus gardener. Below are resources for locating and
connecting with farmers, student gardeners, and more; but don’t stop here! Join a garden blog,
utilize social media, visit a farm and just get out there and connect with people!
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
NORth
A block garden minimizes weeding
and soil compaction by placing like
plants together in blocks, as opposed
to traditional rows, and only placing
foot paths between different types of
plants. The garden can be any desired
length, but should only be about 3
to 4 feet wide to facilitate harvesting
from each block. Keep plants within
each block evenly spaced based on
each variety’s needs. Separate each
block with an 18 to 24 inch foot path.
This type of layout is ideal for raised
bed gardening.
Schools with Campus Garden/Farm Programs:
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
33
O n l i n e R e sou r c e s
GARDENING RE S O U R C E S
Local Harvest
Unsure where to get seeds and other garden needs?
(www.localharvest.org)
Look below for information on where to get seeds, fertilizer,
and other necessities for the campus garden .
Provides extensive searchable databases to help you find CSAs and small family
owned farms in your area, as well as access to organic farm related blogs, events,
and a seasonal newsletter.
Alternative Farming Information Center
(afsic.nal.usda.gov)
Provides 100+ resources (information, reports, research studies, listservs etc.) for
farmers interested in starting CSAs. For those interested in education or research,
this site provides opportunities to attend conferences and connect with other
researchers in your field.
Farmers Market Coalition
(www.farmersmarketcoalition.org)
Provides contact information for state farmers market associations and listservs to
get connected with farmers’ market managers/organizers.
Sustainable Agriculture Education Association
(www.sustainableaged.org)
Provides access to a student farm directory, information about conferences, and
resources for sustainable agriculture education.
State Sustainable Agriculture Associations:
Many states have sustainable agriculture associations that can provide resources,
conference information, and networking opportunities for resident farmers. The
list below gives a few examples. Look online to see what your specific state has to
offer.
• Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture
(www.pasafarming.org)
• Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association (www.oeffa.org)
• Northeast Organic Farming Association (covers New York, New Jersey,
Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont)
(www.nofa.org)
• Sustainable Farming Association of Minnesota (www.sfa-mn.org)
• Alabama Sustainable Agriculture Network (www.asanonline.org)
• Midwest Organic and Sustainable Education Service
(www.mosesorganic.org)
34
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Seeds:
• Your local nursery or retail store with a garden department (e.g. Home
Depot or Lowes) will most likely carry organic seeds for common vegetables
and herbs.
• If you want certified organic seeds, or simply more variety, try ordering seeds
online from one of the sites below. Just make sure you plan ahead so your
seeds arrive in time to plant them.
o Seed Savers Exchange: www.seedsavers.org
o High Mowing Organic Seeds: www.highmowingseeds.com
o Botanical Interests: www.botanicalinterests.com
o Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply: www.growingorganic.com
Fertilizer:
• Local feed and farm supply stores and home improvement stores usually
carry fertilizers like bone meal, fish emulsions, etc.
• Your college may have compost that you can use.
• Farmers in your area may sell or give you manure if you ask them.
• If you live near a public beach, you can harvest your own kelp—just be sure
to observe any laws or beach regulations and select kelp that is still wet
and fresh.
Rooting Hormone:
If you plan on starting herbs and/or other plants from cuttings, you may want to
invest in some rooting hormone, which can be purchased at the local nursery or retail garden store. There is some debate over the organic quality of rooting hormone
so you may want to examine other options if you want to maintain a completely
organic garden. If you have access to a willow tree, you can make your own all
natural alternative to rooting hormone. Trim fresh willow twigs from an area of
recent growth on the tree, remove the leaves, and cut the twigs into 1 inch pieces.
Place the pieces vertically in a glass, add ½ inch of hot water, cover with plastic,
and let steep for 24 hours. Remove the plastic, add the cuttings you wish to root,
and let steep in a dark place for another 24 hours before planting the cuttings. You
can also make larger quantities of willow tea to water the cuttings after they have
been planted to further encourage root development.
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
35
Kaolin Clay:
A white, powder or clay derived from kaolinite, kaolin clay has a variety of garden
and non-garden applications. Look for kaolin clay at:
• local agriculture and feed stores
• ceramic supply stores
• all-natural food stores/ herbal shops
• cosmetic or soap-making suppliers
F U R T H ER RE S O U R C E S
Books:
Pleasant, B. (2010). Starter vegetable gardens: 24 no-fail plans for small organic gardens. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing.
Salatin, Joel. (2010). The sheer ecstasy of being a lunatic farmer. Shenandoah
Valley, VA: Polyface, Inc.
Marshall Bradley, F., Ellis, B.W., Phillips, E. (Eds.). (2009). Rodale’s ultimate
encyclopedia of organic gardening: The indispensable green resource for every
gardener. USA: Rodale, Inc.
Coleman, Eliot. (1999). Four season harvest. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea
Green Publishing.
Ellis, Barbara. (1996). The organic gardener’s handbook of natural insect and
disease control. Emmaus, PA: Rodale Press, Inc.
Coleman, Eliot. (1995). The new organic grower. White River Junction, VT:
Chelsea Green Publishing.
Internet:
Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey (2011). If plants could talk.
http://ifplantscouldtalk.rutgers.edu
Rodale, Inc. (2011). Organic gardening. http://organicgardening.com
Sullivan, P. (2003). Overview of cover crops and green manures. National
Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/
covercrop.html
36
Starti n g a C a m p u s G ard e n
Renewal is a Christ-centered
creation care network that strives to
inspire, equip and connect
students in their sustainability efforts.