Hubbard County
Shoreland Guide to
Lake Stewardship
2011
This guidebook will provide you with basic information on good lake stewardship; however, it should
not be considered complete or current. Many of
the matters discussed are
subject to detailed ordinances, rules, regulations,
and statutory provisions to
which you should refer for
details and are subject to
periodic changes that may
not be reflected in this
guidebook. Neither the
Hubbard County SWCD
nor any of the other contributors assume any
responsibility for errors or
omissions.
Funding Partners:
Hubbard County COLA
Hubbard County SWCD
Itasca Mantrap Electric
Co-op
U. of MN Extension
Rolf Smeby
Boulder Lake Assn.
Potato Lake Assn.
Little Sand Lake Assn.
Spider Lake Assn.
Long Lake Assn.
Kabekona Lake Assn
Bad Axe Lake Assn.
Portage Lake Assn.
Big Mantrap Lake Assn.
In memory of
Gary Stolzenberg
In memory of
Vern Thompson
Table of Contents:
Introduction Section .......................................................................
1
It’s Up to Us ...................................................................................
2
Curb Pollution: Reduce Phosphorus and Other Pollutants............
3,4
Reduce Rainwater Runoff..............................................................
5,6
Buffer the Lake from Runoff...........................................................
7,8,9
Allow Water to Settle Into the Soil—Not Run Off Into the Lake! ...
10,11
Don’t Let Your Shoreline Slip Away—Curb Erosion.......................
12,13,14
Be a Careful Boater .......................................................................
15
Properly Install, Operate, and Maintain the Septic System ..........
16,17
What Permits are Required in the Shoreland Zone?.....................
18,19
Working Around Wetlands .............................................................
20
Hubbard County Landowner’s Checklist........................................
Inside Back Cover
Hubbard County Contact Information ...........................................
Back Cover
Production Credits:
Content: Paula West, West Communications
Design: Marlene Waller, The Paper Plan-It
Printed 2011; Range Printing, Brainerd, MN
Photo Credits:
Front Cover: “Glorious Sunrise/Potato Lake” by Andrew Nyhus Photography;
www.andrewnyhusphotography.com; “Trumpeter Swans Enjoy the Icy Waters of a Park
Rapids Winter” by Renee Bexell, Little Sand Lake Lake–Fish Hook River; “Anna and
Joey Planning Tomorrow’s Lake Adventures From Grandpa J’s Dock” by Becki Murphy,
Palmer Lake; and “Mother Loon” by Andrew Nyhus Photography, Potato Lake.
Back Cover: Deb Rogers, “Sunrise Fishing on Duck Lake.”
Photos on page 1: Historical photos courtesy of Jerry Fuller, Fuller’s Gun and Pawn,
Park Rapids, Minnesota. Large photo: Fish Hook, 1909; Fish Hook River, 1910.
Other photos: Park Rapids Lumber mill and Fishhook outlet.
References:
1
Lakescaping for Wildlife and Water Quality, State of Minnesota, Department of
Natural Resources; Henderson C; Dindorf C; Rozumalski, F.
2
Rain Barrel Fact Sheet, Crow Wing County Extension, 2007.
3 Hubbard County Shoreland Homeowner’s Checklist:
Depending on what you want to do with your shoreland
property, permission and/or permits may be required from
one or more agencies before proceeding with a project.
Contact the Hubbard County Environmental
Services Department before starting any project in
the shoreland zone.
The first step is to bring in a detailed plan of the project to
review with the staff. Staff will then be able to provide
advice on what permits or applications will be necessary
for your individual project. Contact staff at 218-732-3890 or
stop by the office on the 2nd floor of the Hubbard County
Courthouse, 301 Court Avenue, Park Rapids, with any
questions.
Contact the Hubbard County Soil and Water
Conservation District (SWCD) for:
• Technical information and assistance on projects that
involve shoreland stabilization (erosion control) and
shoreland and woodland management.
• Technical information and assistance on shoreland
restoration/landscaping projects.
• Funding assistance for abandoned well sealing, low interest septic compliance loans, and conservation program
assistance.
• Cost-share programs for water quality and shoreline
restoration projects; wildlife projects on private land; and
wetland restoration projects.
• Tree sales.
Contact the Minnesota DNR before:
• Removing emergent vegetation (cattails, bulrushes, wild
rice); contact the Fisheries office.
• Using chemicals to control any aquatic vegetation; contact the Park Rapids Area Fisheries office.
• Clearing a path through lilypads for access to open
water; contact the Fisheries office.
• Altering a lake bed or any work done below the OHWL;
contact Waters/Bemidji.
• Purchasing an automatic aquatic plant removal device.
Hubbard County Coalition of Lake Associations (COLA)
PO Box 746
Park Rapids, MN 56470
Website: http://www.minnesotawaters.org/group/hccola/welcome
The Hubbard COLA is a non-profit organization dedicated to protecting and enhancing the quality of Hubbard County’s lakes and rivers; preserving the economic and
recreational values of its shorelands; and promoting responsible use of its waters
and related habitats. The COLA is comprised of 30 lake associations representing a
total of 41 lakes and 2,150 lake association members.
The Hubbard COLA is active in the Healthy Lakes and Rivers Partnership which has
led to the formation of 18 lake associations developing lake management plans and
the formation of an Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) Task Force to prevent the spread
of AIS. It has been recognized throughout Minnesota for its AIS prevention efforts
and clean water initiatives. Ken Grob, COLA past president, was selected as the
2010 Minnesota Waters Volunteer of the Year, and the Hubbard COLA was selected
by the Northwest Minnesota Foundation for its 2010 Quality of Place Award for
Natural Assets.
The COLA supports three annual initiatives for lakeshore and water quality improvement. Financial and volunteer support is provided to the Children’s Freshwater
Festival sponsored by the Hubbard County SWCD; shoreline shrubs/trees are distributed for lake associations; and the COLA coordinates the Water Monitoring
Program for the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency (MPCA) and Minnesota DNR.
Working Around Wetlands
What are Wetlands?
Statewide, Minnesota has
lost over 50% of its prestatehood wetlands and
has about 9.285
million acres of wetlands
remaining. Let’s protect
what we have left.
Wetlands are a vital transitional link between land and water. When you think of wetlands you probably think of wet marshy areas filled with cattails and ducks.. This would
be true for some, but there are eight different types of wetlands in Minnesota. Wetlands
can include moist forested areas, brushy lowlands, and small wet areas near a lake.
Generally, a wetland is defined as an area that is mostly wet soil, is saturated with water
either above or just below the surface, and is covered with plants that have adapted to
wet conditions.
Wetlands have extremely valuable benefits, including:
• Water Quality Protection: Wetlands filter and absorb polluted surface water runoff
before it enters groundwater, lakes and rivers.
Wetlands are valuable
because:
• they clean the water.
• recharge water
supplies.
• reduce flood risks.
• provide fish and
wildlife habitat.
• provide recreational
opportunities and
aesthetic benefits.
If access to the lake is
limited due to the presence of wetlands along
the shoreline, boardwalks
and docking is encouraged.
• Flood Control and Groundwater Recharge: Wetlands serve as holding areas for
water, slowing flood damage and soil erosion during heavy rain falls.
• Fish and Wildlife Habitat: Wetlands provide homes, nesting areas, and feeding
areas for wildlife. Wetlands along shorelines are especially important due to the
habitat they provide to aquatic insects and amphibians, which are also food sources
for fish.
• Reducing shoreline erosion: Wetlands, and the deep rooted plants that grow in
them, protect shorelines from the forces of wave action that erode away the shoreline.
Who has permit authority?
Despite these benefits, wetlands have been considered nuisances in the past and have
been drained or filled in shoreland areas for development.
In 1991, the Minnesota Wetland Conservation Act (WCA) was passed to stop the loss of
wetlands. To accomplish this, anyone proposing to drain, fill, or excavate in wetland
areas must first try to avoid disturbing the wetland; second, try to minimize the impact on
the wetland; and finally, mitigate, or replace the square footage of wetland loss. Some
exemptions to the law may apply to certain situations. Generally, wetlands in shoreland
areas are given extra consideration for protection due to the benefits they provide to
lakes.
If access to the lake is limited due to the presence of wetlands along the shoreline,
boardwalks and docking is encouraged. The Hubbard County SWCD can also provide
assistance in helping you determine if wetlands are on your property and what permits
may be needed. Work that is done below the ordinary high water level (OHW) in lakes,
rivers or public waters will require a permit from the DNR Public Works Program.
Contact the Hubbard County SWCD at (218) 732-0121 for permit information and
requirements when working around wetlands.
Page 20
Hubbard County
Shoreland Guide to Lake Stewardship
Introduction
Hubbard County is blessed to have some of the clearest and cleanest lakes in the State of Minnesota. Some lakes have
water clarity over 40 feet deep. These crystal clear waters provide a wonderful recreational venue for residents, seasonal
visitors, and vacationers alike. During the summer people come from all parts of the country to fish, swim, boat, or just
relax while taking in the natural beauty that abounds in lake country. With 313 lakes and 230 miles of rivers, water covers
almost 20 percent of the county and provides plenty of recreational opportunities for everyone.
Big Pine Lake
With these great resources comes responsibility. Our area lakes have been a cornerstone of the local economy from the
time trappers and loggers arrived. These pioneers were followed by resorters and anglers and now land developers and
lake service providers. As has often occurred in the past and still occurs today, maintaining the quality of our local water
resources can take a back burner to the economics of lake country. Keeping the current local economy strong and preserving the local tax base are very important, but striking a balance with proper management of our water resources will
ensure clean water and a sustainable and strong economy for generations to come. Nature is designed to take care of
itself to a point, but when harmful impacts reach the tipping point water resources can be quickly degraded. Once a
downward trend begins it is difficult and expensive to reverse, if it can be reversed at all.
The Hubbard County Shoreland Guide to Lake Stewardship is designed to provide lakeshore owners and lake users with
some simple tips and tools that can be used to ensure that clean water persists long into the future. It is our hope that
our children and grandchildren can enjoy recreating in the same clean water we grew up with and enjoy today. Although
this guide does not include ideas or solutions for every issue related to management of our waters, it is meant to provide
a foundation that can be built on by each of us in our own unique situations. We hope you will enjoy and use this guide.
Page 1
It’s Up to Us
“ ….we must never
forget that the land and
the water are ours for the
moment only, that generations will follow who must
themselves live from the
land and drink that water.
It would not be enough to
just leave something for
them, we must also leave it
a little better than we
found it.”
L. L’Amour
This Shoreland Guide to Lake Stewardship will provide you with basic information on
good lake stewardship. You'll learn about two primary ways you can manage your property to protect water quality: 1) curbing pollution at the source; and 2) reducing, capturing, and cleansing runoff that can carry pollutants to the lake. If we who live around
the lake practice the ideas in this guide, collectively we will keep our lakes healthy to
protect our investment in shoreland property, continue our enjoyment of the lake, and
also preserve ecological integrity.
When you own shoreland you do have certain rights and privileges, such as the right to
put out a dock to a navigable depth; to fish, boat, hunt, and swim; and to use the water
for domestic purposes. But, these rights must be exercised in compliance with the rules
of Hubbard County and the State of Minnesota. These rules are in place for the benefit
of your health and safety and the health of the adjacent lake or stream.
Along with those rights also comes the responsibility to protect, improve, and enhance
the quality of the water for your enjoyment and that of future generations, keeping in
mind that the water itself is a public resource for everyone to enjoy. That's called stewardship: the individual responsibility to manage one's life and property with
regard for the rights of others. The lake is a living ecosystem and part of the larger
ecosystem of all living plants and animals to which we also belong.
Keeping Our Lakes Healthy
Water quality is primarily dependent on what happens on the land around the lake
or along a river and within its watershed, which is the area of land that drains to a
particular waterbody. It's the runoff from the land, and the pollution that is carried with it,
that can determine the quality of the water.
A healthy lake depends on a healthy watershed. A healthy lake doesn't just happen. It
comes about when shoreline property owners and others living in the watershed take
steps to insure the lake's health.
Each lake has its own watershed or land that directly influences what comes into the
lake and ultimately impacts water quality. Each lake watershed is part of a larger watershed that influences water quality, too. The southern half of Hubbard County lies within
the Crow Wing River Watershed, the northwestern portion is in the Mississippi
Headwaters Watershed, and the northeastern portion is in the Leech Lake Watershed.
While the land activity in the watershed contributes pollution to the lake, the shoreland
zone is the lake’s first line of defense. What you and your neighbors do or don’t do on
your shoreland property can have a significant impact on the quality of the lake.
Managing water quality means appropriately managing the land use around the lake to
reduce the amount of pollution that enters the lake.
Page 2
The 4 Zones of Lake Protection
The 4 zone
approach to
lake protection
is most
restrictive at the
shoreline, and it
is more flexible
as one progresses further up the
watershed.
shoreline
shoreline
buffer
shoreland
watershed
The 4 Zones:
a) At the shoreline interface of land and water;
b) The shoreline buffer
zone, the land immediately adjacent to the
water;
c) The shoreland zone—
1,000 feet from a lake
and 500 feet from a
river or stream;
d) The lake’s watershed.
if: 1) the dock, not including the watercraft lift or canopy, is
not wider than 8 feet and is not combined with other structures that create a larger structure; or 2) the dock is no
longer than is necessary to reach navigable water depth, is
not a safety hazard, it does not close off access for others
to the lake, allows for free flow of water under it, and is not
intended for use as a marina.
A general permit was issued in 2008 that allows for a modest platform at the lake end of the dock under the following
circumstances: 1) a single temporary platform up to 120
square feet measured separately from the access dock, or;
2) 170 square feet including the area of the adjacent
access dock. The access dock must be 5 feet or less in
width and is located on a lake with a classification of
General Development or Recreational Development. The
general permit for platforms expires when the revised rules
for docks are adopted. A DNR Waters permit will be needed if a dock exceeds these conditions. Check the DNR
website for final dock rule revisions.
Control of Aquatic Plants
The removal or destruction of aquatic plants in
Minnesota lakes is regulated by the Minnesota
DNR. Aquatic plants are a valuable part of the
lake system. They stabilize bottom sediments,
protect water clarity, prevent shoreline erosion
and provide fish habitat. Keep destruction of
aquatic plants to a minimum.
If you see unusually high plant growth where it
has not previously occurred, look for possible sources of
phosphorus getting into the lake from your property that
might be fueling this growth, such as excessive runoff, a
malfunctioning septic system, or shoreland erosion.
If it is necessary to manage submersed aquatic vegetation
for swimming or boat docking consider removing only that
vegetation allowed without permit (see below). DNR aquatic plant management applications are available on the web
under “Fishery Permits” at mndnr.gov or call the Area
Fisheries office.
DNR Aquatic Plant Management rules require:
• No destruction of emergent aquatic plants (bulrushes,
cattails,wild rice) is allowed unless authorized by a
DNR permit.
• Limited mechanical control (cutting or pulling) of submerged vegetation not exceeding 2,500 square feet
or wider than 50 feet along the shore or half the width
of your property, whichever is smaller; more than that
requires a permit.
• Cut or pulled vegetation must be removed from the
water and the cleared area must remain in the same
place from year to year.
permit is required for:
• Use of any chemicals or automated mechanical
devices (such as the Crary WeedRoller, Beachgroomer or Lake Sweeper).
• Use of copper sulfate for control of swimmers itch or
filamentous algae.
• Removal of lily pads in an area larger than a channel
15 feet wide to open water.
• Any removal of any bulrushes, cattails, or wild rice.
• Removal or relocation of a bog.
• Planting aquatic plants below the OHWM (ordinary
high water mark).
These activities are not allowed in any circumstances:
• Excavating the lake bottom for aquatic plant control.
• Using lake-bottom barriers to prevent the growth of
aquatic plants.
• Removing vegetation within posted fish-spawning
areas.
• Removing aquatic plants from an undeveloped shore.
• Removing aquatic plants where they do not interfere
with swimming, boating or other recreation.
Hubbard County Shoreland Management
Ordinance
All counties and municipalities with shorelands within their
jurisdiction are required to have and enforce a Shoreland
Management Ordinance that regulates activities done in
the shoreland zone. The local government ordinance must
meet or exceed the Minnesota State Shoreland Rules.
The Hubbard County Shoreland Management Ordinance is
not a building code. It addresses the setbacks and the
location of structures on a shoreland lot and defines
restrictions on the types of activities that can take place
within the shoreland zone. It also regulates the setback
and construction of septic systems.
Please contact the Hubbard County Environmental
Services Department before commencing any project
to find out what regulations may apply, what zoning
approvals may be required, and if the project is allowed.
A DNR Fisheries aquatic plant management (APM)
Page 19
What Permits Are Required
in the Shoreland Zone?
Who Has Regulatory Authority in the Shoreland Zone?
Knowing what you can
and cannot do in the
water and on the adjacent
shoreland area, and following the regulations
that apply, is an important
stewardship practice.
The shoreland zone in Hubbard County is defined as the land within 1,000 feet of a lake
and 500 feet of a river or stream plus the near shore waters.
• For any actions in the water or on the land below the ordinary high water
level (OHWL) of a public water (lakes, rivers, streams, wetlands), check with the
appropriate Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) office for permits
that may be required.
• For any actions on the land above the OHWL (the upland areas of your property) and within the shoreland zone, contact the appropriate county, city or watershed office.
Ordinary High Water Mark (OHWM)
(Above is Hubbard County jurisdiction)
Any activity that
disturbs land, plant or
animal life or applying
chemicals in the water is a
regulated activity to
ensure that the quality of
the environment is not
compromised.
Ordinary High Water Level (OHWL) (Below DNR)
Record high
water level
Cattails, Bulrushes, Sedges,
and other aquatic vegetation
See checklist
on inside back
cover for
appropriate
authority in
various situations.
Average Water Level
Record low
water level
How do I know where the ordinary high water level (OHWL) is? For lakes and wetlands, the OHWL is the highest water level that has been maintained for a sufficient period
of time to leave evidence on the landscape; it is not necessarily the highest place the
water has been. It is commonly that point where the natural vegetation changes from predominately aquatic to predominantly terrestrial.
If there is a question about the OHWL on your property, contact the DNR Area
Hydrologist or the Hubbard County Environmental Services Department (HCESD).
What Rules Apply To These Shoreland Activities?
Any land alteration in the shoreland area above the ordinary highwater mark, including
building retaining walls and installing rip-rap, requires a permit from the HCESD.
Dock Placement and Size
Docks are privately owned structures, which are allowed to be placed in the
public waters of the state to provide access to the use of the water. The DNR
establishes dock rules to prevent the deterioration of the lake's ecosystem
from excessive or inappropriate dock placement that can harm aquatic plants
or disturb fish spawning, feeding, and shelter from predators.
Local governments have the authority to regulate docks; Hubbard County
currently follows state rules.
Currently, no DNR permit is needed to install, construct, or reconstruct a dock
Page 18
Curb Pollution: Reduce
Phosphorus and Other Pollutants
Nitrogen, potash, and phosphorus are the nutrients necessary for plant growth.
Phosphorus is the key nutrient needed for aquatic plant and algae growth. When excessive phosphorus reaches the lake, it fuels the overgrowth of aquatic plants and algae,
those microscopic organisms that give water a greenish tinge and can cause blue-green
scums along the shore. Excessive plant and algae growth decreases water clarity, interferes with the recreational use of the lake, and diminishes oxygen for fish.
The average one acre
lawn yields one pound of
phosphorus to the lake
every year.
Natural rainfall contains some phosphorus, which increases when the rain hits a surface
and picks up grime. We can't control rainfall, but we can control our own shoreland practices that contribute phosphorus to the lake. Excessive phosphorus can get into lakes
from shoreland properties in a number of ways, including:
• excessive fertilizer application;
• decomposition of leaves and other plant
material;
• erosion of soil, which has phosphorus
particles attached to it;
• improper human and pet waste
management, both of which contain high
amounts of phosphorus; and the
• use of household products high in
phosphorus.
One pound of phosphorus can feed the
growth of over 500 pounds of algae.
Apply Fertilizer Sparingly. Use Zero-Phosphorus Lawn Fertilizer—
It’s the Law in Minnesota
By law since 2005, Minnesota homeowners cannot use fertilizers containing phosphorus,
except for exemptions for new lawns or when a soil test indicates a need for phosphorus.
In much of Hubbard County, soils are naturally high in phosphorus so lawns generally
don’t need extra phosphorus.
When shopping for fertilizer, buy a brand that has a middle number of zero i.e. 22-0-15. The law did not prohibit
retailers from selling phosphorous fertilizers, and even
though most retailers are carrying more zero phosphorus
fertilizers, it’s up to you to make sure you comply with the
law.
Managing water quality
means appropriately
managing the land use
around the lake and
within the watershed to
reduce the amount of
pollution that enters the
lake.
If you have left over phosphorus fertilizer, using it on the
garden is a good way to dispose of it.
Other herbicide and pesticide precautions to follow:
• Eliminate the use of fertilizers near water or
wetlands.
• Before you consider fertilizing your lawn, aerate it
first and see if that improves its health.
• Use the minimum amount needed to replenish the
soil and apply at the right time of year, usually spring
and early fall. Water lightly after fertilizing to ensure
absorption by the roots before a heavy rainfall.
• Sweep fertilizer that has spilled on the driveway and
other hard surfaces back onto the lawn to prevent
runoff.
Page 3
Use Herbicides and Pesticides Sparingly, or Not at All
• Keep lawn healthy to avoid the need for herbicide applications.
• When necessary, use the least toxic and most degradable herbicide and follow
directions carefully.
• Use corn gluten meal, a byproduct of the corn milling process, as a natural preemergent herbicide that stops the root growth of germinating plants. If you can’t find
it in major retail stores, ask them to carry it.
• Remove dandelions and other unwanted plants from your lawn using hand-tools
instead of chemical applications. If you feel you must use a herbicide for control, do
not apply it to the whole lawn. Instead, use an applicator which allows you to direct
a small spray towards each unwanted plant.
• Identify the pest and learn about the best way to control it; there are many methods
of control other than pesticides. See Integrated Pest Management resources.
• When you use pesticides outside your house, on the lawn and in the garden, use
them according to the instructions on the label to prevent spillage on the ground,
where watering or rain can percolate it into the groundwater or wash it into the lake
with runoff.
Do Not Dump Yard Waste
Never use fertilizers,
pesticides, or herbicides
near the lake. Runoff can
carry these products into
the lake and harm fish,
plants, and other wildlife.
Grass clipping, leaves, and aquatic plant material that wash up on shore all contain
phosphorus, which is released when the plant material decomposes. To prevent
phosphorus from getting into the lake:
• Use a mulching lawn mower and leave grass clippings on the lawn as natural
fertilizer.
• Collect and compost leaves and clippings, or haul them away from the lake to a
disposal site.
• Leave a strip of taller grass along the lake to catch windblown leaves and debris.
• Do not burn leaves near the lake; it destroys the organic matter releasing the phosphorus, which could then be washed into the lake.
Locate Fire Pits Away from the Shore and Dispose of Ash
The leftover ash from burning wood is very high in phosphorus. If the fire pit is located
near the lake, rain can wash the ashes into the lake.
• Locate the fire pit at least 50 feet away from the lake; and,
• Remove ashes from the fire pit to prevent the phosphorus-loaded ashes from being
blown or washed into the lake.
Pick Up Pet Waste
Improper disposal of pet waste not only jeopardizes water quality, but your health as
well. Pet waste contains phosphorus and may contain disease causing organisms,
which, if washed into the water, can make it unsafe for swimming.
• Pick up pet waste in the yard or near the shore and dispose of it properly.
Practice Low-Impact Boating
To reduce the pollution impact of motorized watercraft on the lake:
• When fueling the boat, take precautions not to overfill the fuel tank. If you do spill,
wipe it up with a rag, do not hose into the water.
• Boat slowly; motors stir up sediments releasing nutrients that can lead to
deterioration of water quality. A 50-horsepower motor operated full throttle can stir
the water column and sediment up off the bottom in water as deep as 15 feet.
• Keep your motor well-tuned; use four-cycle motors.
Page 4
3 Practice Water Conservation
Too much water flowing into the tank will cause the tank to
back up and lead to ineffective treatment of wastewater. To
prevent this:
• Repair all leaky faucets, fixtures, and appliances.
• Install low water-use fixtures and appliances (especially toilets and shower heads).
• Do not empty roof drains and sump pump water into
the septic system.
• Wash only full loads of clothing and dishes, and
spread out water use, such as laundry, throughout the
day and week. Consider front loading machines; they
use less water.
• Reduce the length of showers and the number of toilet flushings, especially during high use periods.
• Do not route water softener discharge water into the
septic system.
• Do not hook floor drains or drain tile into the septic
system.
3 Limit What Goes Down the Drain
• Do not put household cleaners, paint, solvents, medications, and other chemicals down the drain.
• Limit the use of antibacterial products. As the name
suggests, they can reduce the amount of working
bacteria in the septic tank.
• Use only the recommended amounts of liquid nonphosphorus detergents and cleaners.
• Do not use powdered laundry detergent as it can clog
your drainfield.
• Prevent food particles, grease, lint from a washing
machine, coffee grounds, plastics, and other nondegradable solids from getting into the system.
• Use single-ply toilet paper for the best decomposition.
3 Do Not Use System Additives
It is not necessary to use starters, feeders, cleaners, or
other septic additives to enhance the performance of your
system. If your system is properly maintained and operated, it will operate at maximum performance with the use of
naturally occurring bacteria.
3 Protect Your Drainfield
Compacting or obstructing the soil over the treatment area
can cause malfunctioning of the drain field. To protect it:
• Keep heavy vehicles off the drainfield.
• Maintain vegetative cover, but do not plant trees or
shrubs on the drainfield because the roots may penetrate and clog the distribution system.
• Mow the area, but do not fertilize or water.
• Reroute roof drains and drain tile away from the
drainfield.
For more information on septic system design and
maintenance, see the University of Minnesota Water
Resources Center's homeowner resources at:
http://septic.umn.edu/owners/index.htm; call the hotline at
800-322-8642; or email questions to [email protected]
Protect Your System from
Freezing in the Winter
Common causes of septic system freezing during the winter
can be lack of snow cover, extreme cold, compacted snow,
irregular use of the system, leaking plumbing fixtures, pipes
not draining properly, or a water-logged system.
What to do if the system freezes? Unplug your pump
and call a septic system professional. Do not add
antifreeze, additives, or continuously run water to try to
thaw the system.
To prevent freezing, follow these general guidelines:
• Fix any leaking plumbing or appliances prior to winter.
• Late fall, add a layer of hay or straw mulch (8-12 inches) over the pipes, tank, and soil treatment area.
• Spread hot water use (laundry, showers, dishwasher)
out over the day and week.
• For high efficiency furnaces that have low water discharge, you can put a heat tape in the pipe or install a
small condensate pump.
• If you are gone for extended period of time, consider
having someone stop by to run hot water regularly or
pump the tank before leaving.
Hubbard County Requirements
Who Regulates? The design and installation of septic
systems is regulated by Hubbard County, and permits
are required from the Environmental Services
Department. All septic systems, including outhouses,
must be designed, permitted, installed, inspected, and
maintained (pumped) by a state-licensed business. For
a list of licensed contractors see:
www.pca.state.mn.us/programs/ists/ or ask your preferred provider for license information.
Who certifies systems? Licensed inspectors review all
newly installed septic systems and will sign a Certificate
of Compliance on properly installed new systems. For
an existing system, a certificate of compliance can be
obtained by a certified design professional.
What are the setbacks from a structure? Ten (10)
feet from the structure for the septic tank and 20 feet for
the drainfield. Wells require a 3 foot setback from the
structure; they are regulated by the MN Department of
Health.
Call the Hubbard County Environmental Services
Department for questions about septic systems,
including your lake setback requirement.
Page 17
Properly Install, Operate, and
Maintain the Septic System
Many homes in shoreland and rural areas rely on Subsurface Sewage Treatment Systems (SSTS), commonly known
as a septic system. Your septic system, if designed,
installed, operated and maintained properly, will effectively
treat wastewater before it is returned to the environment to
protect public health and prevent pollution of nearby waters.
What Causes a Septic System to Fail?
Septic system failure is most commonly the result of:
• Improper design or installation of the system;
• Overuse of water in the home; and/or
• Improper maintenance.
Understanding your system is essential to proper operation
and maintenance. The basic components of most systems
are:
When your system, or a neighbor’s system fails, untreated
wastewater could come in contact with people, causing a
public health hazard. Or, it could enter the groundwater
and eventually a nearby lake, river, or stream, adding pollution that can contribute to increased algae and aquatic
plant growth and declining water quality.
ı The Septic Tank receives the wastewater from the
household plumbing. In the tank, the solids are separated
from the liquid. Here, naturally occurring bacteria decomposes food particles and human waste and the remaining
solids settle to the bottom until they are pumped out.
Newer tanks will have an inspection pipe for monitoring of
the tank and a manhole for access when pumped. The
size of the tank is based on the home’s potential water
use and types of appliances installed. When the capacity
of the tank is reached, the excess liquid flows, or is
pumped, over into the drainfield.
What are the signs of a potentially failing system?
• Sewage backup into the house or slow toilet flushing,
• System alarms sounding,
• Wet and/or black areas around a septic mound,
• Algal blooms and excessive plant growth in the water
near shore,
• Sewage odors indoors or outdoors,
• Water or sewage surfacing in the yard or a nearby
low spot, or
• High levels of nitrates or coliform bacteria in well
water tests.
Understand How Your Septic System Works
ı The Soil Treatment System (drainfield) is typically a
network of perforated pipes surrounded by small rock
and soil. The liquid, which contains pathogens (diseasecausing organisms), nutrients such as phosphorus, and
fine solids, is treated naturally by bacteria as it percolates down through the soil. The design of the treatment
system (trench, mound, etc.) is based on the soil conditions on your property, which must allow for at least three
vertical feet of unsaturated soil for the wastewater to percolate through for proper treatment. The correct type of
system needed for your property will be determined by a
state-licensed septic designer. Where gravity flow is not
enough to move the liquids from the tank to the soil
treatment system, pumps or lift stations are used. This is
typical with mound systems.
Source: University of MN Extension Protecting Our Waters Series, #2
Page 16
If you have a problem:
1. Contact a licensed installer for advice.
2. Reduce/eliminate the volume of wastewater until the
problem can be addressed.
3. If the drainfield or household pipes are not clogged,
have the system pumped for both solids and liquids as a
temporary measure.
4. If there is surface pooling of wastewater, temporarily fence
off the area to prevent contact with humans or pets, and
then repair or replace the septic system immediately.
Properly Operate and Maintain Your System
Proper operation and maintenance will extend the life of
your system for many years and prevent costly repairs.
3 Pump the Tank Regularly
Have a licensed professional pump the solids (floating
scum and sludge) that have accumulated in the septic tank
every one to three years; the more use, the more often
pumping is needed. Make sure they pump through the
manhole and not an inspection pipe. While garbage disposal use is not recommended with septic systems, pump
annually if you are using one. Failure to remove the solids
can cause them to enter the drainfield, which can result in
expensive repair or replacement. For licensed septic
system maintenance services, see the yellow pages.
Reduce Rainwater Runoff...
It Doesn’t Go Away!
What is runoff?
Rainwater or snowmelt that does not soak into the ground and instead runs off hard surfaces that don't absorb water (impervious surfaces) or washes off lawns and steep
slopes is called runoff. Impervious surfaces include roofs, driveways, sidewalks, and
compacted soils. When the runoff reaches the lake, it can carry with it nutrients, eroded
soil sediments, toxic materials, bacteria and other pollutants that can cause reduced
water clarity, increased aquatic plants and algae, and impact fish and wildlife habitat.
What was once an occasional cabin along a wild shore has become a ribbon of structures and paved areas circling the lakes. All this construction has added more rooftops,
roads, walkways, decks, parking areas and driveways, increasing the amount of impervious surfaces, which act like funnels for runoff to reach lakes, rivers, and wetlands.
Runoff from compacted soils and impervious surfaces also increases erosion and sedimentation.
Rainwater runoff is the
#1 source of pollution to
our lakes. Residential and
urban runoff has been
increasing in Hubbard
County in recent years
while other sources of
pollution have been
declining.
Managing runoff on your property is the best way to reduce pollutants before they
reach the lake. Increasing opportunities for water to soak into the ground (infiltrate)
instead of running off is the best way to reduce runoff and filter out the pollutants before
they reach the lake.
Learn From Mother Nature
With the natural water cycle, when there is precipitation, water will evaporate, run off the
land, or soak (infiltrate) into the ground. The amount of vegetative cover on the ground
will determine the amount of runoff and infiltration. Natural vegetation will hold back the
runoff providing time for it to soak into the ground.
How much of the
rainfall runs off?
You Don’t Have to Live on the Lake for Runoff to
Impact Water Quality
Woods ............................ 0.05%
Prairie ...........................
1%
Lawn ...........................
3%
Impervious surfaces ..... 98%
If you live in town, the water running off your lawn and into the storm sewers has to go
somewhere, and it eventually drains to the lake carrying with it nutrients, pollutants, and
sediments that impact water quality. Whether you live on the lake or not, practice the
principles in this guide for reducing the amount of runoff from residential and commercial
properties to increase the amount of rainfall that infiltrates back into the ground.
Page 5
Maintain Natural Vegetation
If we love our lakes, we
have to change our ideas
about what is a good lawn
for shoreland properties.
Limit the amount of lawn
and keep it as natural as
possible to reduce maintenance and increase its
ability to absorb runoff.
Natural vegetation will naturally reduce runoff by holding back the water to provide time
for it to soak into the ground.
• When clearing your lot, minimize the removal of wooded areas, trees and low growing shrubs. Their removal causes more rain to fall to the ground instead of landing
on leaves and branches.
• Grading large areas of land removes the natural depressions of land where water
can pond and soak in.
• Carefully landscape your yard near roads, driveways, and along the shoreline to
direct runoff away from the lake.
Practice Good Lawn Management
Maintain a Healthy Lawn to Absorb More Water
• Aerate your lawn to alleviate some of the compaction that turns
many lawns into “green concrete.”
• Mow to a height of two to three inches; mow when dry to prevent clumping. Taller grass provides shade for better root
growth, which helps with water absorption.
• Consider replacing some of the grass in your lawn area with
clover, native grasses, or other groundcovers that don’t need
watering.
• If watering is necessary, water deeply, but infrequently, to encourage deep root growth. Water with lake water. (Hint: use the nutrients in the lake to make a healthy lawn instead of frequent fertilizer applications.) Water in the morning, not mid-day or evening.
• In hot weather, allow lawn grasses to go dormant so that they
require less water and nutrient intake for survival. Water 1/4 to
1/2 inch every two or three weeks to keep crowns from dehydrating beyond the point of recovery.
Building a home and
establishing a lawn to the
water’s edge can cause
seven times the amount of
phosphorus and 18 times
the amount of sediment to
enter the water compared
to a natural shoreline.1
Identifying Lake Problems Caused by Runoff
Problem
Possible Cause
Is the water near shore cloudy?
Excess sediment reaching the water.
Problem
Possible Cause
Is there an oily rainbow film on the water?
Possible petroleum contamination.
Problem
Are there algal blooms, green scum, or abundant plant
growth in the water?
Excess nutrients such as nitrate or phosphorus reaching
the water.
Possible Cause
Problem
Possible Cause
Problem
Possible Cause
Page 6
Are washouts, trenches, small piles of sediment, leaves, or
debris found at the bottom of slopes?
Excessive water runoff across the property.
Is your shoreline eroding?
Removal of natural vegetation for property development or
creation of beaches, both on-shore and in the lake; dredging, filling, or construction on or near the shoreline; trampling of banks; inadequate protection against runoff from
roofs, driveways, roads, or other developed areas.
Be a Careful Boater
In Minnesota it is against
the law to transport any
aquatic plants and invasive
species.
Stop the Spread of Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS)
Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) are plants and animals released either accidentally or
intentionally into areas where they are not native. Such introductions usually occur
through human activities and often are spread through boating activity.
Common AIS in Minnesota lakes include:
• Eurasian watermilfoil is now in over 246 lakes, rivers,
and streams statewide. There are no infested lakes in
Hubbard County yet; let's keep it that way.
• Curlyleaf pondweed is found in 3 lakes in Hubbard
County.
• Zebra mussels are still not found in Hubbard County
but they are found in over 70 lakes statewide.
• Faucet snails are present in one lake and river system.
Zebra Mussel
The law requires boaters to
remove the drain plug and
drain all water from the
boat. The plug must remain
out while the boat is
transported.
Eurasian Watermilfoil
AIS, such as Eurasian watermilfoil and Curlyleaf
pondweed, cause problems by replacing native plants
important for fish and wildlife habitat and form thick mats
that make boating difficult. When Curlyleaf pondweed dies
back in mid-summer it releases phosphorus that can fuel
noxious algal blooms. Zebra mussels attach to hard surfaces and interrupt the food chain eventually impacting fish
populations.
To stop the spread of AIS, boaters should:
• Inspect boat, trailer, and boating equipment (anchors, centerboards, rollers, axles)
before entering a lake or leaving a lake, and remove any plants and animals that
are visible.
• Drain water from the motor, livewell, bilge, and transom wells while on land before
leaving any waterbody; it is the law.
• Dispose of unwanted bait in the trash. Never release live bait into a waterbody.
When cleaning off fishing lines, collect plant fragments in a bucket and dispose of
onshore away from the lake.
• Wash then dry your boat, tackle, downriggers, trailer, and other boating equipment
to kill harmful species that were not visible at the boat launch.
• Know which waters are infested; check lake accesses for DNR infested waters
signs.
Jet skies can carry AIS, too, so clean out all water intakes and other parts before transporting jet skies.
AIS Prevention in Hubbard County
The Hubbard County Coalition of Lake Associations (COLA) is recognized as a leader
and innovator in AIS prevention. Several AIS initiatives that were started in Hubbard
County have become the standard for counties across Minnesota. Currently, the COLA is
educating lake users and lake residents about the negative impact AIS can have on our
lakes through billboards, roadside signs, signage at boat ramps, distribution of AIS information to resorts and campgrounds, and by sponsoring public service announcements
on the radio. The COLA has also worked hard to obtain funding from the DNR, several
area townships, lake associations, and private sources to ensure that Hubbard County
lakes receive the highest level of watercraft inspections possible each summer.
AIS Infested Lakes in
Hubbard County:
Zebra Mussels: None
Curlyleaf Pondweed:
Upper Twin, Portage, and
11th Crow Wing
Faucet Snails:
Upper Twin
Although Hubbard
County does not have
zebra mussels, rusty crayfish, eurasian watermilfoil,
or flowering rush each of
these harmful invasive
species are found in counties that share a border
with Hubbard County.
To learn more about local AIS initiatives or how to become a volunteer
watercraft inspector, visit the Hubbard County COLA website at
http://www.minnesotawaters.org/group/hccola/welcome.
Page 15
Reduce Erosion By Slowing Down the Boat
Boat wakes can cause tremendous shoreland erosion, so slow the boat down. In shallow areas (less than 15 feet), motor at slow-no-wake speeds (5 mph or less) to reduce
the boat wake and the consequent wave action that can erode your shoreline and the
shoreline of others around the lake. Observe all posted “no-wake” and low-speed zones.
For personal watercraft, running at slow, no-wake speed within 150 feet of the shore is
the law.
Boating slowly makes less wake, less noise, reduces pollution and is less disruptive to
bottom sediments, wildlife and other people. When running at higher speeds, keep the
motor properly trimmed to reduce noise and the boat wake.
Make Friends with the Ice Ridge
Ice ridges are formed by the pushing action of the lake's winter ice sheet against the
shore. Cracks form in the ice because of different contraction rates at the top and bottom
of the ice sheet, and it is especially pronounced in years when there is little insulating
snow cover. Ice cracks also develop because the edges of the ice sheet are sometimes
firmly attached to the shore. Then, as the water rises in cracks and freezes, the ice
sheet expands slightly and exerts thrust against the shore.
Unless the ice ridge is impeding your use of the lake or access to your dock area, consider making friends with the ice ridge and leave it alone. An ice ridge has many benefits
to the lake, such as creating a natural berm to protect the lake from nutrient runoff.
Nutrients collect on the landward side of the mound, producing fertile soil where trees
and plants thrive and provide roots to hold the soil in place. If you do want to remove an
ice ridge, you must follow the Hubbard County requirements. Historical ice ridges are a
feature of many lakes and are protected by state law as a valuable resource to prevent
runoff into the lake.
Hubbard County Ice Damage Repair Policy
Ice ridges provide a natural form of shoreline protection and have many
benefits to the lake.
In Hubbard County, property owners may repair damage to a shoreline from a single
season of ice damage that occurred within the last twelve months when the ice ridge
had been legally altered in prior years providing such work is reported to the
Environmental Services Department. Removal of an ice ridge in all other circumstances
must be authorized by a variance. Permanent ice ridges may not be removed.
Before doing any repair work on an ice ridge, contact Hubbard County
Environmental Services for the current requirements.
Natural shoreline vegetation and other preventive actions are the best protection from both wave erosion and ice heaves, and it's less expensive and
longer lasting.
Page 14
Buffer the Lake from Runoff
Scientific research shows that the way we treat our shorelines affects lake water quality
and fish and wildlife habitat. To protect and improve our lakes, we need to improve
our shorelines. The best way we can do that is by adding or keeping a buffer strip of
natural vegetation along the shore. Buffer strips of native wildflowers, grasses, trees,
and shrubs protect water quality and provide habitat for fish and wildlife.
If you have lawn to the water's edge, lawn behind rip-rap, steep slopes, or little vegetation near the shore, consider a natural shoreland landscaping project to restore the
native vegetation by creating a shoreland buffer zone—an area of native vegetation
along the water's edge.
Rethinking How our Shorelands Should Look
Creating and maintaining a natural buffer zone along your shore does not mean your
property has to look messy, but it may mean you have to re-think what your shoreland
should look like. Lawn-to-lake shorelines are no longer ecologically smart.
Creating or keeping a native shoreline buffer reduces the amount of nutrients entering
the lake along with providing better wildlife habitat. For example, a 20-foot buffer strip
along the lake can trap about 80% of the phosphorus runoff and about 90% of the sediment pollutants.
This lawn is labor-intensive and expensive
to maintain. Fertilizer and grass clippings
add nutrients to the lake leading to weed
and algae growth. A shallow-rooted lawn
(turfgrass) has a minimal ability to filter
nutrients and sediment entering from rainwater runoff and is ineffective at allowing
infiltration of water into the soil. The
shallow roots leave subsurface runoff
untreated while native plant roots intercept
and withdraw the nutrients and water.
This shoreland buffer of native vegetation protects the shoreline, maintains the natural landscape, and filters out boat noise. Many plants are
suitable that are low growing and won't impede
your view of the lake. Using ornamental grasses,
perennials and smaller woody plants will significantly reduce and filter runoff while restoring the
natural beauty to the shore, and they are less
work so there’s more time to recreate.
Benefits of a
Shoreland Buffer
1. Enhances water
quality. A good buffer
protects your lake,
stream, or wetland by
slowing runoff and allowing it to soak into the
ground.
2. Stabilizes shorelines.
Buffers prevent fluctuating water levels, moving
ice, flooding, surface
runoff and wave action
from eroding your shoreline.
3. Provides fish and
wildlife habitat. The
shoreline buffer provides
habitat for fish and cover
for birds, butterflies, turtles, and other wildlife.
4. Enhances aesthetics.
Natural buffers beautify
your yard with a variety
of colorful wildflowers,
create a natural screen
for privacy, and enhance
that “Up North” feeling.
5. Increases property
value. A high quality
buffer is an asset that can
add resale value.
6. Limits nuisance
bugs and wildlife. A
native plant buffer creates a natural barrier to
Canada geese.
Page 7
Getting Started Creating a Shoreland Buffer
One of the greatest benefits
of establishing native vegetation is their deep root systems that stabilize the shore
from erosion and ice damage, and they loosen the soil
allowing the rain to soak into
the ground instead of running off to the lake.
What is a
shoreland buffer?
There are a number of ways to create a shoreland buffer
depending on the characteristics of the shoreland and the
desires of the property owner. Some decisions in creating
a buffer are easy, such as: “How tall do you want the
plants to be?” Others, are more complicated, like: “What is
your soil type and holding capacity?”
Native plants are more
effective at stabilizing
soils and banks because
their roots are longer (35 feet) and more dense
than typical Kentucky
bluegrass (2-3 inches).
They hold the soil particles together to prevent
erosion and reduce ice
damage.
A shoreland buffer is an
unmowed strip of native vegetation that extends both
lakeward and landward from
the water’s edge. A buffer
zone of native plants that
extends 25-50 feet landward
from the shore is preferable, but even adding a buffer as
narrow as 10-15 feet can restore many functions critical to
the health of the lake that may have been eliminated previously by sod, hard structures, or mowing. When it comes
to shoreland buffers, wider is better for more benefits.
The Hubbard County SWCD can assist you with, and possibly help fund, the installation of a shoreland buffer on
your property. Contact the Hubbard SWCD:
212 1/2 2nd St W
Park Rapids MN 56470
218-732-0121
Website: www.hubbardswcd.org
A shoreland buffer consists of:
• The shallow aquatic zone of the emergent, submerged, and floating leaf aquatic plants that provide
food and shelter for ducks, songbirds, frogs and other
amphibians, and fish. The taller plants, like bulrush,
sedges, and cattails can reduce the energy of wave
action to minimize erosion and help maintain water
quality.
• The wetland transition zone of more water-loving
plants that bind the lake bed to the upland soils.
• The upland zone of native trees, shrubs, grasses,
and wildflowers slows rainwater running over-land,
making sediment drop out, absorbing water and nutrients, and breaking down pollutants.
Native Shoreland Buffer
Photo courtesy of Steve Hall, Shoreline Creations,
www.shorelinecreations.net
Resource professionals recommend
that you maintain a shoreland
buffer along 75% of the shoreline frontage.
Here are some options to help you decide how you want to
establish a shoreland buffer.
Source: University of Minnesota Extension
Service, 2005; Item #08308
Page 8
Don’t Mow, Let It Grow A simple, no-cost way to get
started in restoring your shoreland is to stop mowing for
the width of the desired buffer strip. Turf grasses will grow
12-24 inches before going to seed, after which seeds in
the soil will germinate and valuable native plants will begin
to appear. You can note the types of native plants and
wildflowers growing on natural shorelands around the lake
to get an idea of what is likely to appear or will be suitable
for growing in your area. While the buffer is getting established, you may need to weed out nuisance species or add
native plants for diversity, but not mowing will get you
started. Perennial native plants will take three to five years
to become apparent.
Preventing Erosion
Some basic preventive actions include:
• Preserve existing rock and vegetation that naturally occur along the shoreline.
• Stop mowing a strip of land near the shoreline or restore a shoreland buffer of
native vegetation.
• Prevent impervious surface (i.e. roofs, driveways, etc.) runoff from flowing to the
shoreline, steep slopes and bluff areas.
• Avoid construction within 100 feet of the shoreline, steep slopes or bluffs.
• Protect berms pushed up by ice action along lakeshores. They prevent excessive
surface runoff and trap sand which "nourishes" the beach.
• Limit the amount of foot traffic and other recreational activities in erosion prone
areas. Regardless of preventive measures, the right combination of conditions,
such as high water level, violent windstorms, drastic ice movement, and certain
shoreline configurations, may result in serious shoreline erosion.
Neither rip-rap or
retaining walls will prevent ice ridges from
forming because rock
cannot withstand the up
to 30,000 pounds of ice
pressure per square foot.
Preventing Erosion on Steep Slopes and Bluff Areas
The erosion potential on steep slopes and bluffs can be reduced by:
• Diverting water away from steep slopes by rerouting drainpipes and gutters.
• If you need a walkway to the shore, follow the natural contours of the slope to go
across or around the slope, or use steps when a walkway must go directly up and
down a slope, but minimize destruction of natural vegetation during construction.
• Keep the moisture- and nutrient-absorbing natural vegetation on steep slopes by
limiting clearing and grading.
• Replant vegetation on barren slopes.
• Create a view corridor through the trees with selective pruning for an excellent view
while maintaining the natural trees and shrubs.
Naturalizing your
shoreline or maintaining
the natural shoreland
vegetation is the most
important way to reduce
shoreland erosion.
On steep bluffs, selectively prune trees to create a view corridor of the lake.
Keep the vegetative undergrowth to stabilize the soil on the bluff.
Page 13
Don’t Let Your Shoreline
Slip Away—Curb Erosion
Rainwater runoff or waves lapping at the bank of your shore can erode the shoreline, silt
up the water, wash away sand blankets and impair fish spawning areas. When soil
washes into the lake, it carries with it phosphorus, the nutrient that stimulates algae
growth. It causes sediment to build up in the lake; increases turbidity; and impacts fish
and wildlife habitat. Degradation of the water quality is the result. Reducing the erosion
of soil into the lake will lower the amount of pollutants reaching the lake.
Shorelines can erode through many processes. Natural causes of erosion include currents, waves, ice, and rain. Many human activities may significantly increase the rate of
erosion. Some common causes of erosion include:
• removal of natural vegetation for property development or creation of beaches, both
on shore and in the lake.
• improper installation of erosion control structures, such as retaining walls.
• increased wave action from watercraft traveling close to the shore.
• dredging, filling, or construction on or near the shoreline.
• trampling of banks by human, animal, or vehicle traffic.
• inadequate protection against stormwater runoff from roofs, driveways, streets, and
other paved or hard surfaces.
Curbing the erosion of
soil into the lake will
reduce pollutants
reaching the lake.
Signs of a Serious Problem
• A large area of bare soil on a
steep, high shoreline bank.
• A noticeable recession of the
shoreline over a period of time.
• Large patches of muddy water
near a lakeshore, or unusually
muddy streams during periods of
high water or following a rainstorm.
• Excessive deposits of sand or
other sediments on the stream
bed, or very wide, shallow areas
in a stream.
Erosion may be accelerated by activities such as boat
wakes or high waves during storms. Each year erosion
causes the loss of valuable shorefront property.
How can shoreline erosion be controlled?
If your shoreland is eroding away, stabilizing the shoreland will be necessary to
reduce erosion.
Each shoreland situation is different. You are encouraged to consult with shoreland landscaping professionals, the DNR Area Hydrologist, University of Minnesota Shoreland
Specialists, or the Hubbard County Soil and Water Conservation District to determine the
best solution for your shoreline erosion situation.
Rip-rap, stone, retaining walls, or turf grass might seem like good solutions for stabilizing
erosion, but they are not usually the best choice. Rip-rap reflects wave energy back
towards the lake causing previously sandy areas to erode to gravel or cobblestones.
Water can undercut retaining walls and turf grasses. Rip-rap and non-native grasses
don’t reduce chemical runoff polluting the water and causing unsightly algal blooms.
These choices can negatively impact the lake by creating an unnatural barrier between
upland areas and the shoreland environment that destroys vegetative transition areas
and eliminates critical habitat for many species.
Page 12
Restore Your Shoreline
Local nurseries and garden
centers are starting to carry
more native plant stock and
can recommend the best
plants for your site. Plants
used should be native to this
region of Minnesota-don't
buy plants from a mail order
catalog grown in another
part of the country and
expect them to grow. The
DNR website has a list of
native plant suppliers and
landscapers. Consult with
University of Minnesota
Shoreland Specialists, DNR
Shoreland Restoration
Specialists, or the Hubbard
County Soil and Water
Conservation District for
resources and fact sheets on designing your project, selecting plants, preparing the site,
and planting. Take one of the many classes, tours, and open houses offered throughout
the summer on the basics of shoreland restoration. Professionals teaching the classes
will help you design your own project and may later be available for further consultation.
Many classes include an opportunity to participate in the planting of a restoration project
to give you experience for planting your own project.
The book Lakescaping
for Wildlife and Water
Quality is a highly
recommended resource.
It is available in
bookstores and online at
www.mnbookstore.com.
Another valuable tool is
the Restore Your Shore
online tool available at
www.dnr.state.mn.us/
restoreyourshore/index.
html.
Hire a Professional
Shoreland restoration is a rapidly growing field among landscape professionals; consult
the yellow pages or watch for promotions. Ask for recommendations from other property
owners who have completed re-vegetation projects. If your site has a steep slope or
other unusual characteristics, getting professional assistance will be very important to
the success of your project.
Maintaining Your Restored Shoreland
A shoreland restored with native vegetation should maintain itself once it is established.
Apply mulch to new planting beds to prevent soil erosion, hold moisture in the soil, and
control weeds. You may need to water and weed the first season, but once the plants
are established, they will be able to out-compete most weeds. Native species should
never be fertilized because they are adapted to the nutrient levels found in local soils,
and fertilizers and pesticides applied to areas near shore can be a threat to aquatic life
and water quality. Plants left standing in fall and winter provide seeds and shelter for
wildlife, protect the soil from wind erosion, and capture windblown leaves and debris.
Protect the Aquatic Zone
The aquatic zone is a vital part of the shoreland buffer. Emergent vegetation, such as
soft stem bulrush, wild rice, and cattails, help purify the lake by removing contaminants
and calming the water, which allows suspended soil particles to settle to the lake bottom.
They provide food, shelter and spawning areas for fish and other wildlife and add oxygen back into the water. If submerged aquatic plants are interfering with swimming, clear
by hand only what is needed to provide a small swimming area and access to the water.
Leave other submerged plants in place. Remember, aquatic plants are protected and
any disturbance or removal may require a DNR Fisheries permit (see page 19).
Suggested Buffer
Strip Plants:
Blue giant hyssop
Bigleaf Aster
Canadian Anemone
Ox-eye Sunflower
Goldenrod
Fireweed
Columbine
Wild Bergamot
Sneezeweed
Prairie Blazing Star
Black eyed Susan
Big Bluestem
Side Oats Gramma
Fox Sedge
Tussock Sedge
Page 9
Allow Water to Settle Into the Soil—
Not Run Off Into the Lake!
The fewer hard surfaces there are for
rainwater to collect and runoff from the
less likely there will be erosion and runoff
into the lake. The key to solving this
problem is to stop water from running off
your property so it can soak into the
ground. You can capture rainwater and
allow it to be cleansed through natural
soil processes.
The best way to do this is to: divert rainwater off roofs, driveways, walkways,
and other hard surfaces into rain barrels
or to the lawn, or create a rain garden
designed to capture and cleanse the
rainwater naturally.
Divert Rainwater off Roofs and Driveways
Paved driveways and roofs of buildings comprise most of the impervious
surfaces on a lot. Redirect rainwater flow from downspouts, roof gutters, and
driveways onto lawns or into a rain garden where it will have time to naturally infiltrate into the ground. Or, capture the water in a rain barrel, where it
can be used later for watering.
Install a Rain Barrel
A rain barrel is any type of container used to catch water flowing from a
downspout and store it for later use.
The rain barrel is placed underneath a shortened downspout diverting the
roof runoff into the barrel. The rain barrel has a spigot to collect the stored
water for use in watering flower gardens, house plants and lawns. Rainwater
is naturally high in phosphorus; it's a natural way to fertilize.
Humans and pets should not drink the stored water, nor should it be used on
food products. A screen should be installed on the barrel to keep mosquitoes
and debris from entering. Mosquitoes cannot breed if the barrel is drained
weekly.
Rain barrels need to be drained regularly during spring and summer months
to reduce algae growth. During winter months, take your barrel out of operation by simply turning it upside down at the same location or storing it
elsewhere. Rain barrels can be purchased at garden centers, ordered online
from garden catalogs, or you can make your own.
Page 10
How much rain do I need to fill
a 50-gallon barrel? For every
inch of rain that falls on one
square foot of your roof, you can
collect just over half a gallon of
rainwater. Example: 100 square
feet of roof could collect 60 gallons of rainwater during a 1-inch
rain event.2 Sixty-five (65) percent of all annual rain events are
one inch or more.
Plant a Rain Garden
A rain garden is just what it sounds like, a garden to soak up rain water. It
is a recessed planting bed, shaped like a saucer or shallow bowl, and it is
designed to collect runoff from driveways, roofs, other hard surfaces. The
collected water is absorbed into the ground instead of running off to the
lake.
Rain gardens are planted with hardy, water-loving native perennial plants
that have deep roots, which along with the soil, work to provide a filter system to catch pollutants such as phosphorus, oil, mercury and other heavy
metals.
Rain gardens capture nutrients that are carried in runoff so plants in the
garden can absorb them. During a rainfall, the highest concentration of
pollutants is during the first inch, or first flush of the storm, which is
retained in the rain garden. Rain gardens are designed so any water collected will be absorbed into the ground within a few hours of the rainfall
ending.
To be effective, rain gardens must be properly designed for the right shape
and size to accommodate runoff from the amount of roof, driveway, and
other hard surfaces on your property as well as your soil conditions. For
proper design, it is recommended you consult the Hubbard County SWCD
or a landscape professional. Remember to always call the Gopher State
One Call at 800- 252-1166 before digging to prevent cutting into an electrical line or cable.
Additional Resources for Rain
Barrels and Gardens:
Constructing a Rain Barrel:
http://home.comcast.net/~leavesdance/
rainbarrels/construction.html
Designing a Rain Garden:
http://www.lowimpactdevelopment.org/
raingarden_design/
how2designraingarden.htm
http://bluethumb.org/raingardens/
Suggested Rain Garden Plants:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Butterfly Weed
Smooth Blue Aster
Common Yarrow
Stiff Goldenrod
Little Blue Stem
Beaked Sedge
Bush Honeysuckle
Pagoda Dogwood
Downy Arrowwood
Rain Garden Tips:
• Don’t worry about mosquitoes. Most
rain gardens should not hold water
long enough for mosquitoes to
reproduce.
• When first planted, hand weed
biweekly until native plants are
established.
• Don’t fertilize near the rain garden,
it will stimulate weed competition
without benefiting the native plants.
Source: Taylor Creek Restoration
Nurseries
Use Pervious Pavement and Pavers
Pervious pavement and pavers are made of special materials that allow
the water to flow through and infiltrate into the ground. They can be used
for driveways, sidewalks, walkways, and patios. Pavers are quite attractive
and some have a 5-year life span. A 1,000 square foot pervious driveway
can infiltrate over 12,000 gallons of water per year. Runoff from rooftops
and lawns can be diverted to pervious areas for additional water treatment.
Page 11
Frequently Called Numbers & Contact Information in Hubbard County
Projects that impact Minnesota's water resources are regulated by a variety of local, state, and federal agencies.
This guidebook does not attempt to offer a comprehensive
list of water-related contacts.
HUBBARD COUNTY CONTACTS
Hubbard County Government Services Center
301 Court Ave, Park Rapids MN 56470
Phone: 218-732-2300
Hubbard County Website
www.co.hubbard.mn.us/
Government officials (county, city, and township)
and links to county departments.
Hubbard County Environmental Services
2nd Floor of the Hubbard County Courthouse,
301 Court Ave. Park Rapids MN 56470
Phone: 218-732-3890
Hours: Mon-Friday, 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
www.co.hubbard.mn.us/environmental.htm
Hubbard County Soil and Water Conservation District
212 1/2 2nd St W, Park Rapids MN 56470
Phone: 218-732-0121
Website: www.hubbardswcd.org
Hours: Mon. – Friday 8:00 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Hubbard Solid Waste Department
Phone: 218-732-9568
www.co.hubbard.mn.us/Public%20Works/solidwaste.htm
Hubbard County Highway Administration Public
Works Building
101 Crocus Hill Street Park Rapids, MN 56470
Phone: 218-732-3302
www.co.hubbard.mn.us/Public%20Works/highway.htm
MINNESOTA STATE OFFICE CONTACTS:
Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR)
MN DNR Information Center
Toll free: 1-888-MINNDNR (646-6367)
TTY: 1-800-657-3929
[email protected]
www.mndnr.state.gov
Division of Fish and Wildlife - Park Rapids
Area Fisheries, 301 South Grove Avenue
Phone: 218-732-4153
Area Wildlife, 603 1st Street West
Phone: 218-732-8452
Division of Ecological and Water Resources
Bemidji office, Permits - Work in Protected Waters
Phone: 218-308-2620
Itasca office, Aquatic Invasive Species program
Phone: 218-699-7293
Minnesota Pollution Control Agency (MPCA)
Detroit Lakes Office: 218-847-1519
ISTS Licensing Phone: 651-296-7789
Minnesota Department of Health (MDH)
State Office Phone: 800-383-9808
University of Minnesota Extension
201 Fair Ave, Park Rapids, MN 56470
Phone: 218-732-3391
http://www.co.hubbard.mn.us/extension.htm
Shoreland Education website:
www.extension.umn.edu/Shoreland/