CRUISING WITH A MISSION
A socially meaningful and satisfying visit to the Caribbean
The following is a personal log of my own experiences during a recent Fathom cruise to
the Dominican Republic.
Day1
Sunday: after a speedy check-in I was on-board the Adonia and (as an Englishman)
I felt immediately at home because there is an evocative British flair to the ship with its
décor and surroundings. The ship, which was previously positioned under the P&O
brand for British cruises, has the feel of an English country manor-house rather than a
cruise ship plying Caribbean waters. Picture lots of dark wood, a paneled lending
library, a faux fireplace in one of the lounges and electric teapots in the cabins. Think
Downton Abbey in the tropics! At times you will hear very distinguished British accents
coming over the ship’s loudspeakers. “Don’t forget to put your suntan lotion on your
tummies!” was a regular announcement.
The Adonia has a swimming pool, spa and gym as well as excellent restaurants,
bars and lounges. There is also a small but efficient running/walking track for those
determined to exercise. Personally, I preferred to enjoy the chimichurri burgers that are
served poolside during afternoon barbecues. However, travelers should be aware that
there are no elaborate stage shows, casinos, or frills like ice-skating rinks or rockclimbing walls that are offered on more conventional cruise ships. (Class rather than
crass!)
Following our lifeboat drill we set sail in the late afternoon, leaving the glittering
Miami skyline behind us and enjoying a sublimely beautiful Caribbean sunset. The first
evening was spent meeting and chatting with other passengers and I had a delicious
dinner in the Conservatory Buffet. There is also fine dining available in the Pacific
Restaurant and a small upcharge to dine in the Ocean Grill I found the movie showing
“The Big Short” rather ironic because it portrayed so much human ‘greed’ while I and
my fellow passengers were about to see and experience an island of human ‘need’
instead.
Day 2
Monday: With a full day at sea I had time to study the list of our duties and activities
once we arrive in the Dominican Republic tomorrow. The Cuban coast on our starboard
side could be seen all day. I also read up on “Soundings” it’s the daily summary of
what's happening onboard and lists details of many ‘Impact + Travel Training’ choices to
be taken if desired.
In the morning I met-up with some of my fellow passengers, or Cohorts as Fathom
calls us, for an orientation and preparation discussion on just what travel with Fathom is
all about. This was led by our impact guide Greg who, throughout our voyage, would
meet with us and discuss the impact role we will have at our destination. We also learnt
a very valuable distinction: to understand our roles as volunteers with empathy as
opposed to sympathy. Something akin to the old idea of walking a mile in someone's
shoes. The preparations don't end there; we also get a lesson in Spanish phrases that
will come in handy over the next few days.
In the afternoon a seminar entitled Social Innovation in Action introduced us to
entrepreneurs from around the world who have found unique solutions to large social
problems. One of the best examples that sticks in my memory was a story of a regular
guy who trained rats to sniff out land mines left over from conflicts in Africa. His solution
worked so well that he now runs a non-profit organization that has made a true
difference in the world. The rodents do an amazing job of finding the unexploded
weapons and are much faster and more efficient than humans. Don’t worry, the rats are
too light to trip the mines, so it’s a happy ending for everyone, including the rodents.
Ended the day with a good meal and warm fellowship, I could have participated in a
merengue lesson but I know that I have two left feet and so decided to save it for
another time,
Day 3
Tuesday: Buenos Dias to Amber Cove and Puerto Plata in the Dominican Republic.
After a morning run, breakfast and a lesson on getting to know the Dominican
Republic it was time to prepare for my first on-shore impact activity and that was to work
alongside the Instituto Dominicano de Desarrollo Integral (Institute for Integral
Development). IDDI is one of two NGOs (Non-Government Organizations) along with
Entrena who assist with on- ground activities with Fathom. With IDDI we are to plant
endemic tropical cedar trees along the slopes of the mountains in the Yasica region.
Over the past years, large swaths of rainforest had been cleared for agricultural
purposes, which leads to erosion and loss of water in the river that gives the area its
name. The negative effects are felt downstream in the city of Puerto Plata because Rio
Yasica feeds the municipal water supply.
We drive deep into the mountains and hike-up into our chosen valley, passing by
thousands of baby trees planted by prior Fathom travelers. We start by measuring the
distance between the spots for planting with a four-meter pole. Each little seedling
needs plenty of room to grow into a mature tree, once the spots are marked, we dig
holes and plant the future trees. Our crew spreads across the hillside, measuring,
digging, and planting until we have many hundreds of new trees ready to grow in the
warm Dominican sun.
The fruit of our labors may not be apparent for several decades but, as the trees
mature, they will provide stability to the soil, habitat for wildlife, help clean the air, and
will be seen by future generations. The job was hot and dirty but the gratitude shown
was priceless.
We all enjoyed the wonderful scenery during an interesting drive back to the ship
while fellow passengers shared their stories. Finally we were back on-board for a much
need shower and change, dinner, drinks and a movie followed with more fellowship and
relaxed conversations with my fellow passengers, Buenos noches.
Day 4
Wednesday: Another early start and run/meditation followed a hearty breakfast I
was offshore for my second impact activity (Clean water access). I traveled to the
village of Higuerito with my Fathom Cohorts to work with Wine to Water. By teaming up
with Fathom, Wine to Water hopes to make 1,500 clay water filters in a year's time,
impacting 7,500 people in the Dominican Republic.
Participating in almost every step of the production process, I sifted sawdust,
worked the clay, molded the filters, and helped check safety levels of water after initial
filtration. As I worked I learned about the innovative way the filters work. The materials
used to create the filters are all locally sourced, except for the liquid silver needed to kill
bacteria. Waterborne illness is the leading contributor to infectious diseases, causing
men women and children to miss work and school because their stomachs are infested
with parasites and other bacteria. When the filters our Fathom team molded are later
fired in the kiln, a layer of charcoal is created from the sawdust - trapping the bacteria to
allow the silver to do its work. This is a truly remarkable concept bringing clean and
drinkable water to the community and I had the quiet glow of feeling that I was making a
significant difference.
A leisurely drive back to the ship and clean up followed. Tonight like most nights
there was plenty of music and entertainment, local bands are brought in to add flavor
and dishes on the menu are locally chosen.
People on cruises always make friends with fellow passengers but I’ve noticed the
relationships developing on this cruise are far more immediate and intense, based on
the shared and intense experience of hard-work for a good cause. By extending beyond
our normal comfort zones, we have all become more open and aware in a uniquely
shared environment.
Day 5
Thursday: Today is going to be a doubleheader for me as I have back-to-back
activities ashore. Of all the Impact Travel projects I participated in during this trip, the
one where I saw the most immediate impact was the building better foundations project:
‘Concrete Floors in Community Homes”
During the short drive into Puerto Plata our Dominican facilitator explained what it
was like growing up in a house with a dirt floor. When it rains, the floor becomes mud,
and life becomes dirty, sordid, difficult and unhealthy. Hearing this first hand description
really brings to life the importance of this program and inspires us to tackle the hard
work ahead within our host family's home. We meet up with representatives of IDDI
again who have coordinated with Fathom to identify families in need of this valuable
service.
Before we begin, we meet the family and then they all join with us in the hard
physical work. This family of 6 lived in a very small dwelling and the small floor we were
to lay concrete for was for the 26 year old daughter who was 6 months pregnant. The
room was for her and her future baby. I was really touched, and it made all the hard
work more meaningful. The process is decidedly low-tech; we mix sand, mortar/cement
and water directly on the ground using shovels. Once the mixture is ready to be laiddown inside, we send it along by bucket brigade into the dwelling. Full buckets in empty buckets out.
Because we have enough manpower, the process is very effective. Since there is
no way a big truck could ever fit into the narrow streets of this neighborhood, this proves
to be an efficient alternative. The procedure continues for several hours but, to be
honest, we are so focused on our tasks that we barely notice. Before noon we have
made, mixed, and poured enough concrete to floor the room. Our reward is to take a
look inside and see the smooth, new concrete covering the old dirt, and even more so
the host family's smiling faces. There is nothing like the feeling of that ‘Before’ and
‘After’.
We find that we have one more reward waiting when we walk to the nearby church
for an incredible lunch of chicken, rice and beans, plantain, and cassava. Absolutely
delicious, and couldn't be more authentically Dominican.
I had brought some supplies with me from the US and it just so happened that I had
a large box of wipes which I gave to the future Mum. What a perfect coincidence that I
had brought these, as well a soccer ball which the 6 year old boy was happy to receive
and a few religious items I gave out. We all prayed and huddled together afterwards.
Around 1:30pm we left for the ship, tired and exhausted, but I still had a 2:30pm
activity commitment, so after a quick shower and change onboard, I was back ashore in
the transport van, off to a English-Learning activity.
Our Impact Travel Facilitator, who works with Etrena -- one of the on-the-ground
Dominican organizations with which Fathom works to access the needs of the
community -- takes us to a local village way up in the mountainside. By meeting with
local adults, we are building on the English lesson plans that Etrena has already created
to bring people together in a cross-cultural manner.
It does not matter how much Spanish you know, the villagers we worked with only
want you to speak English to them. English proficiency is the largest driver of economic
success for job applicants in the Dominican Republic. It feels good to see the impact
that Fathom has already had, and know that we too played a small part in it - and it's
only the beginning. Our goal is to interact with folks in their homes and, in the process,
interact in a manner that eludes most travelers. Our hosts have an opportunity to
practice and refine their language skills - our lesson revolved around telling time,
building on prior lessons such as counting, basic greetings and the names of days and
months.
But it is the social aspect of our visit that is such a blessing. And we were smiling
knowing that the next group of volunteers will finish what we started. With our lessons
finished, we walk around the village as our hosts show us around, learning about each
other’s' lives and finding the magical mix of English and Spanish that makes journeys
like this so memorable.
We left the village around 5:30PM to return to the ship and the sights and sounds as
we drove through the early Dominican evening were great. The rest of the evening was
spent enjoyably socializing over dinner with fellow travelers followed by a viewing of the
Old Man and the Sea movie. There are several hangouts for relaxing and drinking on
board the Adonia. The Crow’s Nest, as well as Andersons, with its English looking dark
wood panels and club-like atmosphere made me hanker for a Scotch-and-soda.
Day 6
Friday: After a brisk run and breakfast I was headed for my fifth and final activity,
the Chocal Chocolate factory. Chocal along with RePapel are two locally owned
women’s cooperatives. RePapel creates items like coasters, candles and other
souvenirs from recycled paper and used-products and the women sell these items. The
location for both cooperatives is both important and significant as they are both close to
the homes of the workers, thus enabling the workers to remain close to their families. In
the past the women would have had to leave their children behind all day while they
traveled miles to find work.
The Chocal location is set high in the mountain’s on the edge of Puerto Plata. We
saw the whole process of how the raw Cacao seeds are eventually made into fine
Artisanal chocolate bars. These finished chocolate bars have several different but all
delicious flavors and are sold at the port to visiting cruise passengers as well as to large
local supermarkets. Our group donned masks and followed the cacao beans on the next
step of their journey to becoming chocolate. We cleaned, roasted and ground the beans
into chocolate and did some wrapping and packaging and of course - the best part was the tasting afterwards.
After many fond and emotional farewell-hugs it was back to the ship and a 1:00pm
sailing home. It's an election year in the Dominican Republic and the mood is festive
with colorful signs everywhere. The streets are filled with vehicles blaring-out music and
candidate-endorsements from speakers mounted on their roofs, and everywhere there
are spontaneous parades of flag-waving supporters taking to the streets.
Day 7
Saturday: The final day was spent reflecting on the week’s activities. There were
also several seminars and sessions onboard that one could participate in. These
included “Where to go from here” and “Storytelling your adventures.” The “Life Hack
Bootcamp” session later in the day, taught us how to be more effective with our time
and how to be more impactful with you children your work, your community or even the
whole wide world!
The most important lesson we learned is that making a difference in the world
should follow us home - wherever that may be. There is always a way to reach-out and
help others - we just need to be open enough to see it, and to be creative enough to
jump-in and do what's best.
Because of my age and my English nationality, I never had the opportunity to
participate in the Peace Corp. I always regretted that I’d missed the chance to travel to
a new country, to explore a different culture, to experience a life so different from my
own – and to have the satisfaction of knowing that in some small way I had made a
contribution and made the world a slightly better place. As I sit on the deck of the
Adonia, heading back to Florida, reflecting on the past week, I feel that I have had a
taste of what those young Peace Corp volunteers must feel. It’s a good feeling.
Day 8
Sunday: Arrive at sunrise into Port Miami just in time for a nice cafecito and
adios Adonia: - Hasta la próxima vez. What a wonderfully rewarding, enjoyable,
entertaining and spiritually satisfying week this has been!