A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight On 23rd October 1731, fire broke out in Westminster at the home of the greatest collection of manuscripts in Britain. The terrified librarian Dr Bentley fled into the street clutching the most precious of the many irreplaceable manuscripts. This library had been amassed by Sir Robert Cotton in the late 16th and early 17th centuries and contained a wealth of books, many of which had originally been owned by the great English monasteries before their dissolution. A bust of a Roman emperor surmounted each bookcase in the Cotton Library and it was with reference to these busts that the manuscripts were catalogued. Many priceless manuscripts were lost in the fire, but those that survived became part of the founding collection of the British Library. One of the manuscripts that narrowly escaped the fire is known to scholars as Cotton Nero A.x. It was the tenth manuscript on shelf ‘A’ of the bookcase in Cotton’s library beneath the bust of Nero. It contains four poems written in a northern Middle English dialect. The survival of the manuscript was extremely fortuitous, as two of the four poems that it contains are acknowledged jewels of late medieval literature. All four poems are known solely from this single manuscript, so their survival was very close run. The four poems are not named in the manuscript, but they are known today as: Pearl, Cleanness, Patience and Sir Gawain and the Green Knight. All four poems are written in the same dialect, and there are other similarities as well, so most commentators believe that they were the work of a single anonymous northern poet who wrote during the second half of the 14th century. There was a resurgence of English literature at this time, partly because English had become the native language of the aristocracy. Since the Norman Conquest the aristocratic overlords of England had spoken Norman French, but in the 1360s English became the official language of the courts and parliament. The new-found status of the language led to a patronage of verse in the vernacular and a flowering of English literature in the later years of the century. The greatest English poetry of this era was produced by William Langland, author of Piers Plowman, John Gower, author of Confessio Amantis and Geoffrey Chaucer, author of Troilus and Crysede and The Canterbury Tales. But the poems of the manuscript Cotton Nero A.x are considered to be on a par with the greatest works of these authors. Pearl and Sir Gawain, certainly rank amongst the most outstanding works of Middle English literature and Sir Gawain is arguably the greatest English poem of the age. In this one document we have the work of one of the nation’s greatest poets, but the identity of this author is completely unknown. A new analysis of Sir Gawain has enabled the present author to identify the patron of the poem and the site where the drama of the poem unfolds. The name of the poet remains a mystery, but a solution may be within reach if the argument presented here is correct. Sir Gawain – the language Sir Gawain is a truly remarkable piece of literature that deserves to be far better known. It is a very polished composition and clearly the work of a mature and accomplished poet. The tale blends the chivalry of the Arthurian court with folk elements that suggest pre-Christian fertility rites. Like all good poetry, the verse has many layers of meaning and the poetry is rich and evocative. The story is also captivating from start to finish, every line has been chosen with care. The poem is enthralling and in places it is also humorous. The poetry of the Gawain-poet is as sophisticated as Chaucer’s, but the style is very different. Most of the lines of Sir Gawain are alliterative. This means that in each line there is a repetition of the stressed consonants, which usually occur as the first letters of the most significant words in the line. For instance, the following is a typical line of the poem, with modernized spelling: After the season of summer, with the soft winds Alliterative poetry may at first sound unfamiliar to the modern reader, but it had a long tradition dating back to Anglo-Saxon verse and beyond to the oral tradition of the northern European bards. Epics, such as Beowulf, were written in alliterative verse many centuries before the time of the Gawain-poet. The onomatopaeic potential of alliteration is used to great effect in Sir Gawain, bringing a vivid colour to each scene, as in the line above which evokes a calm summer’s day with a gently billowing breeze. It is clear that the poem was written to be recited. A dramatic auditory performance would reveal the full power of the poetry. But this was normal in the Middle Ages. There exists a painting of Chaucer reading to the court including Richard II. Solitary reading to oneself in private would have been unusual. The poetry of the Gawain-poet is not as well known as Chaucer and there is no denying that it takes more effort on the part of a modern reader. The main reason for this is that, whereas Chaucer’s dialect was that of the capital and has evolved into modern English, the Gawain-poet wrote in a regional dialect. Long ago experts in Middle English, such as J. R. R. Tolkien, located this dialect to the northwest Midlands of England, the area of Cheshire, Staffordshire and Derbyshire. One of the charms of reading the poem is that it is a bit like deciphering a huge cryptic puzzle. Most of the words have modern equivalents, but with an unusual pronunciation and often with a strange and inconsistent spelling. Some words, including gradely, fettle, nobut (nothing but), are now unknown outside northern dialects. Other words survive as features in the landscape, such as scout, meaning mountain, which is preserved in the name of the highest hill in the Peak District, Kinder Scout, frith, meaning wood, is still found in many names, such as the town Chapel-en-le-Frith, lawe or low, which means mound is still used in many places, such as the stone circle Arbor Low in Derbyshire. Other words are well known from Old English, Middle English or Shakespearean literature, such as welkin – sky, worm – dragon. And yet others have survived in modern German, but not modern English. For instance, frayn, which in German is fragen, “to ask”, and hals, which is German for “neck”. And there are yet other words, such as the technical terms describing Gawain’s armour, or the hunting scenes that require a glossary or commentary from an expert in Middle English. To read a line of Sir Gawain, we must proceed in several steps. First, the manuscript contains a number of shorthand abbreviations that must be expanded. It also uses three letters that no longer exist in modern English. These are the letters thorn, þ, yogh, ʒ, and ash, æ. For instance, the first line, as transcribed by J. R. R. Tolkien and E. V. Gordon, is: The letters can be modernized to give the following line: Sithen the sege and the assaut watz sesed at Troye We can then modernize the spelling to give: Sithen the siege and the assault was ceased at Troy A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 2 And then translate any obsolete or dialect words into modern English and we finally arrive at: Since the siege and the assault was ceased at Troy Simon Armitage in his alliterative modern translation gives the opening line as: Once the siege and assault of Troy had ceased Before seeking the origin of the poem, a quick run through the plot will set the scene. Outline of the Story It is New Year and the court at Camelot is in the middle of their fifteen-day Yuletide celebrations. King Arthur and his knights are about to tuck in to their New Year’s feast when Arthur declares that he will not eat until he has heard a fabulous tale or seen a strange marvel. Right on cue a knight enters Arthur’s hall. The mysterious knight has long green hair that flows into his great green beard and down to his belt. He is clothed in green and sits on a handsome green horse. The huge knight holds a branch of holly in one hand and a mighty axe in the other. He proceeds to issue a challenge to the knights of Arthur’s court. He will allow one of them to strike off his head with the axe and in exchange he will return a similar blow to them. The knights remain seated, reluctant to take up the strange request. Arthur, himself, is about to perform the feat when Gawain gallantly steps forward to take the king’s place. He raises the axe and severs the green knight’s head from his body. The green knight then retrieves his head from the floor and, holding it by the hair, he issues his challenge to Sir Gawain that he will be waiting for him at the Green Chapel in a year’s time, and that Gawain must find the Green Chapel and receive his return blow. The green knight then leaves, and the astonished knights hang up the axe on the wall and carry on with their New Year’s banquet. The year passes and as the winter arrives Gawain anxiously prepares for his journey in search of the Green Chapel. He travels through North Wales and into England and in the depths of winter arrives in a rugged snow covered landscape. Just as he is wearying of his journey, on Christmas Eve he arrives at a beautiful castle. He is welcomed inside and joins in the Christmas festivities. For four days the partying continues; then the guests leave. Gawain is about to take his leave, but the Lord of the Castle asks him to stay. Gawain explains that he must find the Green Chapel by New Year’s Day, if he is to keep his word. The Lord of the Castle replies that it is less than two miles away and that he will send a guide with Gawain, so he can safely stay for another three days. Gawain agrees, and then the Lord suggests that they should make a bargain. They should exchange what they win each day and, while the Lord goes out hunting with his men, Gawain should stay at the castle and lie in late, as he must be exhausted with all his travels and the Christmas revelry. Gawain agrees and goes off to bed. In the morning the Lord rises early and goes off hunting deer in the rough icy terrain around the castle. Meanwhile, the Lady of the Castle creeps into Gawain’s room and while Gawain is still in bed she banters with him seductively and offers herself to him. Gawain resists all temptations, but agrees to kiss her, as she persuades him that it is the chivalrous thing to do. In the evening A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 3 when the Lord returns he gives Gawain all the venison that he has caught during the day and Gawain gives him the kiss in return. The following day, the same bargain is struck. Gawain receives two kisses from the Lady and the Lord succeeds in killing a wild boar, which he exchanges with Gawain when he returns to the castle. On the third day, while the Lord is out hunting a fox, the Lady wants to exchange a love token with Gawain. She offers Gawain a ring, but he declines it because it is valuable. Then she offers him her green girdle. Gawain again refuses it, but she tells him that it has magical powers. Whoever wears it cannot come to any harm if someone tries to kill him. Gawain realises that this may come in handy when he faces the Green Knight, so he accepts and agrees not to mention it to the Lord. The Lady also kisses Gawain three times during her visit to his bedroom. When the Lord returns, Gawain gives him three kisses and in exchange the Lord gives him the coat of the fox that he has captured. The following morning, after wrapping the green girdle around his waist under his armour, Gawain sets off with his guide for the Green Chapel. He is taken through the rugged cliffs in the neighbourhood until his guide tries to persuade him to turn back. Gawain says that he must go on and proceeds alone. Eventually, Gawain finds a cave in a gorge that is overgrown with grass and realises that this devilish place must be the Green Chapel. He hears the noise of an axe being sharpened in the undergrowth on the other side of the gorge. Then the Green Knight appears, hops over a fast-running stream and confronts Gawain. Gawain bares his neck to receive the chop and the Green Knight swings his axe. But Gawain shrinks away and the Green Knight halts his stroke. Gawain steadies himself and says that this time he won’t flinch. The Green Knight takes a second stroke, but again stops before hitting Gawain’s neck. He says that as Gawain is now ready, he will finally deliver the blow. The third stroke of the axe just nicks Gawain’s neck and as the blood falls from the cut, he jumps up, thrusts his shield in front of him and tells the Green Knight that he has now accepted the return blow and if he attempts another, then Gawain will certainly defend himself. The Green Knight now explains that he is the Lord of the Castle and because Gawain was honest on the first two days when they had made their agreement, he had left him unscathed with his first two blows, but because on the third day Gawain kept the present of the green girdle secret he nicked him with his third blow. However, he didn’t remove Gawain’s head because Gawain’s dishonesty was not due to greed or lust, but simply because he wanted to save his life, which is understandable and much less of an offence. Gawain returns to the court of King Arthur to tell his tale and the knights agree that in future they will all wear green girdles swathed across their chests in honour of Gawain’s adventure. What brings the story to life is that a great deal of attention is paid to the fine details creating memorable images such as the Green Knight nonchalantly stroking his beard as he awaits one of Arthur’s knights who might accept his challenge or towards the end of the poem, where the Green Knight can be heard sharpening his axe before using it to hop across the stream and confront Gawain. In another vivid line the poet likens the brilliant white towers and crenellations of the castle to a paper cut-out decoration that would have been used to adorn the plates of a grand banquet. The Order of the Garter Sir Gawain makes definite references to the Order of the Garter and this is the starting point for our investigation into the origin of the poem. The Lady of the Castle gives Gawain a green A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 4 girdle, which is also referred to as a belt. Gawain describes the girdle as a baldrick and ties it over his right shoulder and knots it under his left arm. At the end of the poem, Gawain returns to Arthur’s court and tells his tale to the other knights. In Gawain’s honour, they decide that henceforth they will all wear the green girdle. At the very end of the manuscript are written the words: Honi Soit Qui Mal Pense. This is clearly a variant of the motto of the Order of the Garter: Hony Soyt Qui Mal Y Pence, which roughly translates from Old French as ‘Shame on anyone who thinks bad of this’. This line was not written by the scribe who wrote out the poems in the manuscript, but it is in a contemporary hand. Presumably by someone who recognised the relationship between the poem and the order. These connections strongly suggest that the patron of the poet was a Knight of the Garter. The Most Noble Order of the Garter remains the pinnacle of the British honours system. Its origin is well documented. In 1330, King Alfonso XI of Castile instituted the Order of the Band in imitation of the Knights of the Round Table. The insignia of the order was a band worn over the shoulder in the same manner as Gawain’s green girdle. This was the first order of knighthood to be established in medieval Europe and was widely emulated by other European monarchs. Alfonso and his knights went on aggressive campaigns to expand the borders of Castile. In 1343, the English knight Henry of Grosmont fought for Castile in these campaigns. The following year Henry returned to England and the court of King Edward III with tales of the chivalrous exploits of the Castilian knights. Inspired by the example of Alfonso of Castile, Edward III announced that he intended to set up his own order of knighthood, the Order of the Garter. In 1348, the order was established. There were originally 26 knights including the king. Each knight was assigned to his own stall in St George’s Chapel at Windsor. In these wooden stalls, beneath their pennants and coats of arms they would hear mass and take communion. The king held stall 1. This stall is still reserved for the monarch today. In the original investiture of the knights, Edward III’s eldest son Edward, who became known as the Black Prince, held stall number 2 and Henry of Grosmont, later the Duke of Lancaster, held stall number 3. If we refine our quest for the patron of Sir Gawain to a Knight of the Garter with strong connections in northern England who flourished in the second half of the 14th century, this pares down the number of candidates considerably. One man stands out. John of Gaunt John of Gaunt was born on 24th June 1340. He was the third surviving son of King Edward III. His nickname is a reference to his birthplace - Ghent. But during his lifetime it would have been more usual to refer to him by one of his titles. John of Gaunt was invested into the Order of the Garter in 1361, in stall 14, when he was 21 years old. He later transferred to stall 2 in 1377 after the death of his brother Edward the Black Prince. The most famous portrait of John of Gaunt includes at the top left the knotted belt of the order with its inscription: Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense surrounding his coat of arms. There are many clues that suggest that Sir Gawain and the Green Knight was probably written in his honour. A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 5 [Portrait of John of Gaunt] John of Gaunt married Blanche, daughter of Henry of Grosmont in 1359. When Henry died two years later, John was invested as the new Duke of Lancaster and through his wife’s inheritance became the greatest landowner in northern England, with extensive estates throughout Lancashire, Cheshire, Staffordshire, Derbyshire and Yorkshire. In 1369, John’s beloved wife Blanche of Lancaster died of the plague and was buried in Westminster Abbey. Thirty years later, John would be buried by her side. Blanche was lovingly commemorated in Geoffrey Chaucer’s first major literary work The Book of the Duchess, which was written for John after her early death. Geoffrey Chaucer had been in royal service since the age of 14, as page to Lionel, Duke of Clarence, elder brother of John of Gaunt. In The Book of the Duchess Chaucer makes numerous references to the colour white, which is taken to refer to Blanche herself and at the end of the poem there are also cryptic references to two of the titles of John of Gaunt as ‘long castel’ i.e. Lancaster (line 1318) and ‘ryche hil’ i.e. Richmond (line 1319) and the narrator swears by St John, which is John of Gaunt’s saint’s name. Chaucer remained close to John of Gaunt throughout his life. After Blanche’s death, John appointed Catherine de Roet, the sister of Chaucer’s wife, to be the governess of his children. It wasn’t long before they became lovers and she eventually became his third wife. Much of John of Gaunt’s early adult years were spent campaigning in France and Spain. In 1370, during these campaigns he was given the title Lord Bergerac and Roche-sur-Yon. He fought for Pedro the Cruel, the King of Castile and on 21st September 1371 he took Pedro’s daughter Constance as his second wife. When Pedro was deposed by his brother, John of Gaunt fought to have him re-instated. After Pedro’s death, John unsuccessfully claimed the title of King of Castile. (From 1372 he styled himself King of Castile and Leon.) If John of Gaunt is identified with the Lord of the Castle in Sir Gawain, then his wife Constance of Castile as the Lady of the Castle would be ideally suited to hand out the green girdle and introduce Gawain and Arthur’s knights to the Castilian Order of the Band. A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 6 John of Gaunt was a leading member of the Order of the Garter who offered his patronage to his friend the poet Geoffrey Chaucer, but, as a member of the royal court, would he also have offered his patronage to a poet writing in a northern dialect? There are good reasons to suppose that he might. One of John of Gaunt’s favourite castles was Tutbury in Staffordshire. This castle had been the home of John’s first wife Blanche and her father Henry of Grosmont. This suggests that the dialect of the Gawain-poet may well have been familiar to John of Gaunt’s circle. He is also known to have supported the minstrels in Staffordshire. John set up a gild for the northern minstrels and established an annual festival at Tutbury Castle, at which minstrels competed to be King of the Minstrels for a year. This festival continued until the 18th century. No doubt the Gawain-poet was a more sophisticated author than these minstrels, but it seems reasonable to suppose that John of Gaunt would not have been averse to hearing a good tale well told in his court. But there are other reasons to believe that the poem might have been written in his honour. John of Gaunt’s birthday, the 24th June, was an important feast day on which the nativity of John the Baptist was celebrated. This was a popular summer festival in the Middle Ages and the preparations for the celebration of this festival are recorded in John of Gaunt’s register. John the Baptist’s head was famously served up on a silver platter to Herod’s daughter Salome. A whimsical beheading story might have appealed to John who shared his birthday with the Baptist. It might also be significant that the Christmas festivities in the poem are centred around St John’s Day – 27th December. Gawain’s Travels and the Tale’s Topography Sir Gawain offers the modern reader a number of mysteries. The action takes place in the castle inhabited by the lord who later reveals himself to be the Green Knight and at the Green Chapel where the dramatic climax of the poem is reached. The poem appears to describe a real landscape. It would be in keeping with medieval literary practice if the action took place in the domain of the patron of the poem. There are no convincing theories about the identity of the poet, but we are confident that we can now ascertain the identity of the patron and the sites where the drama takes place – the castle and the Green Chapel. It is the identification of these places that tie the poem firmly to John of Gaunt. In the poem, when Gawain sets off from Arthur’s court he holds Anglesey on his left (which, incidentally, could mean that Arthur’s Camelot is to be identified with Caernarfon Castle) then proceeds to Holy Hede, which is usually identified with Holywell. St Winifred’s well at Holywell was an important pilgrimage site. The Life of St Winifred tells how she was decapited, but with the help of St Beuno her head was restored. This beheading tale fits the theme of the poem and is generally considered to be the motivation for its inclusion. Holywell is in the east of North Wales close to the estuary of the River Dee. Gawain crosses the Dee near Holy Hede and enters the wilderness of the Wirral, which was a royal forest. Gawain then travels on to a rocky and desolate region in his search for the Green Chapel. Most commentators agree that Gawain is continuing on his eastwards journey until he reaches the Pennines and the region where the dialect of the poem has been located. This seems natural, as the rugged nature of the Pennines A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 7 fits the scenery of the poem much better than any other region of northern England. Eventually, Gawain reaches a castle. Later we learn that the castle, which is surrounded by harsh and precipitous scenery, is in a great area for hunting. Peveril Castle in Castleton, Derbyshire, or Peak Castle as it used to be known, fits the bill very well. Peak Castle was the grand hunting lodge for the Royal Forest of High Peak. The royal forests were not simply wooded areas, they had their own legal system and were governed by strict laws designed to prevent any cultivation of the land and to maintain the areas as undeveloped wildernesses teeming with game. Strict laws punished poaching. High Peak was one of the favourite hunting grounds for the medieval English kings. The forests were filled with deer, as well as wolves and wild boar. Henry II boasted in a letter to the Byzantine Emperor Emmanuel that in High Peak “the deer were so plentiful that when they were hunted they helped by their numbers to their own destruction”. This chimes well with the words of the Gawain-poet: And the lord of the land still led the hunt, driving hinds to their death through holts and heaths, and by the setting of the sun had slaughtered so many of the does and other deer that it beggared belief. Peak Castle The geography and purpose of Peak Castle fit the description of the castle in the poem, but what about its architecture? [Peak Castle – The main entrance to the castle would have been across a drawbridge that spanned the gorge to the left of the keep in the photograph.] Today Peak Castle is a ruin. The keep shines like a broken tooth standing proud against the skyline above the town of Castleton. It would have looked even brighter when its millstone grit facing was intact. The main castle is situated at the top of a steep triangular crag. On one side there is a precipitous drop into Cavedale. On the other is a steep narrow gorge. The castle walls A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 8 surround the triangular top of the crag. In the poem, Gawain finds the castle by chance and, as luck would have it, stumbles on the main entrance. He is confronted by the barbican on a mound surrounded by wooden palisades. The castle is enclosed by a double-ditch and there is a deep moat. Beyond the barbican Gawain sees the keep and other towers of the castle shining brightly through the trees. It is: The most commanding castle a knight ever kept, Then Gawain passes through the gate and across the drawbridge, where he is greeted by squires who stable his horse and welcome him into the castle. Looking at Peak Castle as it appears today it is not obvious that it conforms to the description given in the poem. However, to a visitor in its heyday it would have looked quite different. This is not simply because the castle is now a ruin, but also because the entrance by which tourists approach the castle today is up a steep path that zig-zags directly from the town below. In the Middle Ages, this was not the main entrance to the castle. A reconstruction of the castle in the 14th century is shown in the following picture: [Peak Castle Reconstruction – the model is shown from the opposite direction to the photograph shown above of the castle as it looks today.] When the castle was in use, the main entrance, as shown in the reconstruction, was across the drawbridge that spanned the precipitous gorge next to the keep of the castle. Over the drawbridge from the castle were outbuildings enclosed by a wooden palisade with a gateway defended by a barbican tower. This area was protected by a ditch which is still clearly visible on the hillside. Also still visible is the track that led away from this outer ditch up the hill and beyond to the south. This would have been the route by which Gawain approached the castle if our analysis is correct. In fact, within the poem there seem to be veiled references to the main administrative sites in the area: Wormhill, Tideswell and Hazelbadge and these allusions occur in the correct order if Gawain were approaching Castleton from the south. A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 9 sumwhile wyth wormes her werres and with wolves als (line 721) Wormhill is a small village that was one of the judicial centres of the High Peak and according to a Wikipedia article about Wormhill: “There was a tradition of wolf hunting in Wormhill in the fourteenth century. It was said that a living was made by some and that an annual tribute of wolfheads was shown. It has been reported that the last wolf killed in England was at Wormhill Hall in the 15th century.” Towards the end of the same stanza in Sir Gawain is the line: The knight wel that tyde (line 736) This could be a reference to Tideswell, which was the main administrative centre of the Royal Forest of the High Peak. It is a small town ten miles south of Castleton, where each year two Great Courts were heard. A few lines later: The hasel and the hawthorn were harled al samen, with rough ragged mosse rayled aywhere, (line 744) which might be an allusion to the Manor of Hazelbadge, which is situated by Moss Rake on the road between Tideswell and Castleton. Hazelbadge Hall was owned by the High Steward of the Royal Forest of High Peak. Continuing along this route would bring Gawain northwards over the hills to the main entrance of Peak Castle, which he first sights twenty lines later at the start of the next stanza. These veiled allusions to the places that Gawain passes as he nears the end of his journey are perhaps not strong enough to be accepted as independent evidence for the identification of Peak Castle as the castle of the poem. But they are the sort of references that we might expect to find in the poem if it was written for an audience who might attend a banquet in the castle. These three named places were the homes of the local gentry who administered the royal forest. The patron of the poem would have been an altogether grander person. If Peak Castle can be positively identified with the castle in the poem, then the owner of the castle must be the prime candidate for the patron. So, who owned Peak Castle in the second half of the 14th century? King Edward III’s wife was Philippa of Hainault. On 14th August 1369, Phillipa succumbed to the plague and her titles and estates reverted to the king. These estates included the Royal Forest of the High Peak. When John of Gaunt returned from his overseas campaigns, he ceded the earldom of Richmond in Yorkshire to his father in exchange for the lordship of High Peak. The transaction was completed on 5th June 1372, when he took over the lordship of High Peak and with it Peak Castle. No doubt John of Gaunt could see the attractions of hunting in this unspoilt wilderness. We can be sure that the royal family made use of their northern hunting lodge in the following years. In 1374, a visit to Tideswell is recorded of John of Gaunt’s 18 year old son, the future Henry IV. Whilst he was in Tideswell, Henry bought a greyhound from Benedick Tatton for 10d, probably for the purpose of hunting in the Royal Forest. To summarise, Peak Castle fits the poem in the following respects: it is in the area of the country identified with the dialect of the poem; it is situated in rugged countryside that matches the description in the poem; it was a grandiose hunting lodge, which fits with the hunting that takes A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 10 place in the poem and it was owned by a senior member of the Order of the Garter who patronised poets and minstrels. Furthermore, the archaeological reconstruction of the castle seems to fit the poem’s description very well. But if we are to take this identification seriously, then we must also find the site of the Green Chapel. The Green Chapel The Gawain-poet describes the Green Chapel as: nobut an old cave or a crevasse of an old crag This suggests that the Green Chapel should be identified with an overgrown cave. A number of contenders for the site of the Green Chapel have been suggested over the years. One candidate is Wetton Mill Cave in the Manifold Valley in Staffordshire. But the most popular suggestion is Lud’s Church, an overgrown crevasse in the rugged hills known as the Roaches on the Staffordshire-Derbyshire border. Lud’s Church is a very interesting and evocative place that is thought to have been used as an open-air chapel by the Lollards in the late 14th century. However, there are serious obstacles to identifying either of these sites with the Green Chapel. For instance, neither is close to a castle, whereas in the poem the Lord of the Castle tells Gawain that the site of the Green Chapel is less than two miles from the castle. A guide will get you there at dawn on New Year’s Day. The place you need is near, two miles at most away. Both Wetton Mill Cave and Lud’s Church must therefore be dismissed as unsatisfactory locations for the Green Chapel. By complete contrast, we do not have to look very far to find a significant cave that is associated with Peak Castle. Close by the castle there is a cave that, like the castle, still belongs to the Duchy of Lancaster. This cave is Peak Cavern and it is situated at the bottom of the steep narrow gorge that would have been spanned by the castle’s drawbridge. The cave entrance has a high domed roof, like the nave of a church. It is reputed to be the largest cave entrance in Britain. With the dimensions of a chapel and with the entrance overgrown with grass, trees and bushes, it answers very well to the description of a green chapel. At the bottom of the gorge a fast-running stream passes the entrance to the cave. This is how a Victorian tour guide to the Peak District describes the cave: “The Peak cavern, called by some the Devil's Hole, is close to the village of Castleton, and not five hundred yards from the parish church; it is under the hill on which the castle stands. The approach to Peak’s Hole is beautiful. The trickling stream issuing from the cavern, the perpendicular rocks on either side; the rookery among the elms, are all charmingly picturesque. The entrance to it is by a dark and gloomy recess, formed by a chasm in the rocks which rise A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 11 perpendicularly on each side to a great height, and it is a steep ascent to an opening in the hillside which resembles a Gothic arch, and is 120 feet wide and 42 high.” [Picture of the entrance to Peak Cavern] In the poem, Gawain describes the Green Chapel as an ugly oratory, an evil place and the most accursed church that he has ever seen. He thinks that it looks like the sort of place where the Green Knight would say his devilish devotions. And he goes on to say that the fiend i.e. the devil, had tricked him into agreeing to this meeting in order to destroy him. For many centuries Peak Cavern has been associated with the devil. It is referred to as the Devil’s Hole or Devil’s Cave and is now marketed to tourists as the ‘Devil’s Arsehole’. (The association of Derbyshire caves with the devil is not simply a standard convention. Many are associated with hermits, saints, elves and Viking gods, for instance.) As Gawain approaches the Green Chapel he hears a rasping sound from the other side of the ravine. The Green Knight then appears out of the undergrowth, vaults the fast-running stream with his axe and confronts Gawain. Just in front of Peak Cavern is a small clearing next to the stream that precisely matches the description and would have been a great site for the Green Knight to wield his axe and behead Gawain. Of course, Gawain only receives a nick on his neck and lives to tell his tale. But before he departs for Arthur’s court, he asks the Green Knight to reveal his name. The Green Knight replies as follows: ‘That I shall tell thee truly,’ quoth that other then, ‘Bercilak de Hautdesert I hat in this land.’ He then admits to being the Lord of the Castle. It would be in keeping with the conventions of late medieval literature if the name Bercilak de Hautdesert were a veiled reference to the patron of the poem, just as we have seen with Chaucer’s allusions in The Book of the Duchess. I think that this cryptic puzzle can be cracked. Hautdesert means ‘High Wilderness’. It is probably also a pun as it could be interpreted to mean ‘highly deserving’. In John of Gaunt’s register, which is written in Norman French, High Peak is actually referred to as ‘Haut Peek’, an example of which is shown in the following illustration. A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 12 [Item 1740 in John of Gaunt’s registry which refers to the chief forester of ‘Haut Peek’.] Furthermore, ‘desert’ was a term that was used for the royal forests. Within another royal forest, Cannock Chase in Staffordshire, there is still a place called Beau Desert i.e. ‘beautiful wilderness’. Hautdesert or High Wilderness would certainly be an apt name for the Royal Forest of the High Peak. Could Bercilak de Hautdesert be a cryptic reference to two of John of Gaunt’s titles: Lord Bergerac of High Peak? Sir Gawain and the Green Knight would have been a great piece of medieval entertainment. It is divided into four fits, each of a suitable length to be read to the diners between the courses of a long meal. It would be appropriate if the poet intended to recite his gripping poem for his patron during a New Year’s banquet. It is our contention that this banquet would have been held in Peak Castle in honour of John of Gaunt. But who was the poet? Nicholas Mee London November 2010 A New Location for Sir Gawain and the Green Knight by Nicholas Mee 13
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