Medieval Christmas in Linköping
in Sweden
From Sweden comes an old bishop’s
manual dating from c. 1520. It tells the
story of how Christmas was celebrated in
Linköping in Östergötland.
Hans Brask was bishop in Linköping from 1513 – 1527 until he fled the country due to his continued
revolt against Protestantism. During this period he hosted king Christian II with whom he celebrated
Christmas in 1520. The particulars of the Christmas celebrations this year are not known. More
generally, however, we are well informed about the usual Christmas celebrations at the court of the
bishop, who left a detailed manual in his household book. Recently transcribed and edited – alas in
Swedish – it offers us a detailed and fascinating description of how Christmas was organised and
celebrated in the cold winter in Östergötland; not least, it also offers a splendid Christmas menu to be
inspired by.
The Christmas Celebrations
Medieval Food. Served at the Medieval Museum in Stockholm. Photo: Anders
Hviid
Not everything is detailed, which pertains to the Christmas celebrations as a lot of what went on in the
late autumn was part of the more general preparation for surviving winter in the cold and harsh north. So
much is certain, though, that November was the month for slaughter and we learn that on the 13th pork
should be smoked in order to avoid rancidity; in all probability the pigs were slaughtered up to St. Martin
and the steward was thus reminded not to let the carcasses rot.
However, on the 20th of December planning gets more specific. We hear that the steward is obliged to
acquire “game and fresh fish for Christmas” as well as be sure to have oblations ready for the servants in
the household, which they might offer on Christmas day during mass. Even the bell-ringer should receive
an oblation and should be called to table “with the others”. This seems to have taken place in the late
morning of the 24th and probably in the courtyard since we also learn that the household rules
(gårdsretten) should be read aloud “and the “boys” should “loose their skin”.
Afterwards, Christmas was celebrated with a large communal banquet at which three to five servings
with eleven dishes served. On this occasion, it seems that everyone shared in all the delicacies; as
opposed to normally, when some would be reserved for the lord’s table and probably served in his private
dining hall.
The menu for the Christmas evening is marked by a number of dishes carefully living up to the rules
pertaining to fasting:
Cured salmon. As it specifically says, this dish should be served at each
“bread”, which obviously means that everybody shared in this – and
presumably also the other – dishes. served on Christmas day. Such cured
salmon would probably be fresh salmon cured in a mixture of salt, honey
and mustard and tasting somewhat like modern, Swedish “gravlax”
Fried herring and eel with mustard
Dried and salted cod served with raisins and almond
Herring from Scania and boiled small herrings.
Fresh Fish served in its cooking water [perhaps jellied?]
Common ling served in oil or fish from Bergen. Probably this would be a
dish somewhat like “lutfisk”, literally lye-fish, which is still served today
made of dried ling, which after having been soaked in cold water for five
days (with water renewed every day), has to be soaked for two days in a
solution made of water and lye. This gives it a jelly-like consistency.
Today, it is generally served with potatoes, mashed peas, mashed kohlrabi
and mustard. At the Christmas dinner in Linköping, the dish was served
with oil as condiment; perhaps oil from mustard seeds. This was of course
in strict adherence to the rules of fasting: vegetable oil was allowed, while
butter was prohibited.
Saltwater-fish
Finnish pike or another dried fish [Dried pike imported from Finland was
a special delicatessen].
Fried fish
Salmon from the Bothnian Sea
Apples and nuts
Christmas Day
After this would follow the vigil and the three masses at midnight, sunbreak and morning followed by yet
another communal banquet. The menu for this meal, the Christmas dinner proper, exists in two versions
in the manuscript. Here, they have been merged.
Roasted meat served all the way down the table
Black-pudding or perhaps porridge served with black-pudding.
The “main dish” with ham. This would – apart from the ham – include a
piece of silverside, newly smoked mutton, pork sausages, fresh beef,
salted beef, salted pork and sausages, udder and newly smoked fat pieces
of meat.
Patés or stew with beef
Small steaks. Probably steaks from hares, game and young chickens as
well as meat-loafs,Cheese pudding [äggost], cheese cake or creamed
butter. Traditional Swedish Cheese pudding is still a delicatessen in
Bohuslän in Sweden. It is made of sour milk whipped with egg and cream,
which slowly cooks until at starts to set. Poured into a traditional form
with holes in the bottom, it drains and forms into cake. Traditionally
served with cured herring or sausages, it is more often served today
sprinkled with sugar and berries. The cheesecake would probably have
been made with the same mixture as the cheese pudding; in this instance,
however, it would also be baked in the oven.
Meat in pastry, and small bits
Apples, Pears and old cheese. Old cheese would be cottage cheese, made
without rennet; then drained and pressed into a form and left to dry for a
period of time; the longer, the “older” and grainier.
In the evening the bishop would partake of a festive dinner, presumably together with his close
entourage and perhaps friends. At this would be served a more refined menu consisting of:
Steak cooked in an iron pot and served as a stew
Game served in its sauce
Fresh chicken or other small birds (pigeons) served fried
Jelly of tongues served with raisins and almonds
Fresh fish served in salt water
Fried cabbage
Small delicacies and old cheese
To all this would be served freshly baked yeast bread as opposed to the traditional hard bread baked of
barley.
We have no inkling on what would be served for drinking at these meals. It is probable, however, that
beer was served as well as perhaps a bottle or two of imported wine. Hans Brask had studied in Germany
and lived in Italy for years before he became bishop. It is believed that he copied elements of the
gastronomy he had experienced in the south of Europe and had it imported to Linköping.
Epiphany
On Christmas eve we learn that one of the jobs of the steward is to organise that Christmas greetings are
sent to friends together with gifts. Unfortunately there are not mentioning of any celebrations around
epiphany and we do not hear further of any giftgiving.
SOURCE:
Biskop Brasks måltider. Svensk mat mellan medeltid och renässans
Ed. by Madeleine Bonow, Magnus Gröntoft, Sofia Gustafsson and Markus
Lindberg
Stockholm, Atlantis 2016
FEATURED IMAGE:
Brask and Gustav Vasa celebrating Christmas in 1523. Diorama from Linköping Slotts- och Domkyrka
Museum.
http://www.medievalhistories.com/hans-brask-bishop-linkoping-1464-1538/