Chardonel Wine Recipe (1 Gallon)
16-18 lbs. Grapes
8 tbsp French Toasted Oak Chips (per 5-6 gallons) (In primary if adding)
Sugar – (As needed to get to Starting SG below)
Acid Blend – (As needed to get to Acid Reading below)
Wine Tannin – (Not needed with wine grapes – skins will provide enough)
1/16 tsp. Potassium Metabisulfite (1/4 tsp every 5 gallons)
1 tsp. Yeast Nutrient (Heavy body wines add 1/2 tsp, light body wines add 1 tsp)
3/4 tsp. dry or 1/8 tsp. liquid Pectic Enzyme
1 pkg. Wine Yeast Red Star Cote des Blancs (if picked to soon - Lavlin ICV D47)
Potasium Sorbate (if sweetening add 1/2 tsp, if not sweetening add 1/4 tsp)
Super Kleer (Kitosol 40) Fining Agent
Starting SG (Specific Gravity) - 1.095
Finish SG (Specific Gravity) – 0.996
Starting PA (Potential Alcohol) - 13%
1.095 – 0.996 = 0.099; 99 * .125 = 12.375% PA
1.095 – 0.996 * 131.8 = 13% PA
1.095 – 0.996 / .735 = 13.5% PA
Acid Reading - .70 to .75 - See special note below in step 4.
STEP 1: Sanitizing
Mix 1/4 cup Potassium Metabisulfite or five crushed Campden tablet in a one gallon jug of water. This will
be your sanitizing solution. Sanitize all equipment and utensils by coating surfaces with sanitizer solution
and waiting 10 minutes. Rinse sanitizing solution from all equipment and utensils with clean cool tap
water. (Remainder of sanitizer solution can be kept in a sealed container for future use.)
STEP 2: Must Preparation
Crush fruit in primary fermentor using a crusher or wooden paddle. Press to separate the skins from the
juice.
Chardonel is not successful if fermented with the skins on, so the juice must be separated from the skins
before fermentation.
STEP 3: Additives
To make a wine making liqueur take the crushed Grapes and put them into a primary fermenter such as a
food grade pail or stone crock. Then add just enough water to barely cover the Grapes. Add to this the
Potassium Metabisulfite, Acid Blend, and all other ingredients as called for in the above home wine
making recipes.
Add the full amount of Pectic Enzyme 12 hours after adding the Potassium Metabisulfute (K-Meta)
as directed on the package it came in, based on the total batch size. This will allow the fruit’s pectin to be
broken down faster than normal.
If adding oak chips – add at this time.
Do NOT add the Yeast Nutrient, Sugar or Yeast at this time.
NOTE: Adjust acid only if you have an acid test kit. It is almost impossible to adjust acid, either up or
down, without one. You would probably be better off not to add any acid blend if you do not have an acid
test kit. Cover the primary fermentor with a towel, loose-fitting lid, or plastic sheet and wait 24 hours.
STEP 4: Additives – Continued and Yeast Preparation
24 hours after adding the Potassium Metabisulfite (K-Meta) what you will notice during this period is
that the wine making liqueur will change from a thick, pasty mixture to a thinner, “syrupy” mixture and will
have a more candied appearance.
Remove enough must (unfermented juice) to fill the hydrometer test jar. Float the hydrometer in the jar.
Spin or tap the hydrometer to dislodge air bubbles and let the hydrometer come to rest. (It should float
freely, not touching the sides or bottom.) At eye level, read the figure on the SG scale of the hydrometer
where the liquid surface cuts across the stem. If it is less than 1.095, add 1lb sugar at a time. Dissolve the
required amount of sugar in must or water and add it to the primary fermentor. Continue taking
hydrometer readings and adjusting sugar and liquid amounts until you have 1 gallon of must with a SG
reading of 1.095 or PA reading of 12.7.
NOTE: The final alcohol content may be determined by using the Potential Alcohol scale readings
corresponding to the original and terminal Balling readings. Subtract the terminal P.A. reading (Step 9)
from the original P.A. reading (Step 3) to get an estimate of alcohol by volume. You may also use this
reading to adjust sugar required. It isn't as accurate as SG reading but it is easier to read on most
hydrometers. Take into account the temperature of the must – read instructions on temperature
corrections.
Then add entire contents of yeast packet to about 2-3 oz of 104F - 109F water, do not stir. Set aside for
no more then 15 minutes or until yeast "puffs up," or water becomes cloudy. Stir gently to suspend yeast
and add to primary fermentor, stir in well and cover. Then add the yeast and yeast nutrient to the must.
STEP 5: Primary Fermentation
Fermentation should start within two days, evidenced by CO2 bubbles and/or a "cap" of pulp pushed to
the top of the fermentor by the fermentation. Maintain temperatures of 65o to 75o F, keeping the
fermentor off the cold floor. Stir twice daily for 6 - 7 days or until the hydrometer reading reaches SG
1.025 – 1.035.
STEP 6: Preparation for Secondary Fermentation
Syphon or pour through a funnel into a carboy (secondary fermentor) and attach airlock (filled with
required amount of water). Make sure airlock adapter and carboy neck are dry before applying airlock.
(Save any extra wine in a gallon jug fitted with an airlock or covered with plastic wrap fastened
with rubber band. This wine may be used in Step 7 to top off.)
Secondary fermentation temperature should be between 55o and 70o F.
STEP 7: Secondary Fermentation
For the first 4-6 months stir the lees up in the wine once a month. This process is known as “sur lees”
aging. It contributes a rich, creamy texture to the wine, which balances the naturally higher acidity and
creates a more harmonious wine.
In 3-4 weeks or when wine has fermented to dry (0.990 ish), rack (syphon) the wine into a clean
secondary fermentor, leaving the sediment behind. Racking is done by placing the full container on a
table and the empty container on the floor. (A) Place the sanitized racking tube (with syhon hose
attached) into the full container. Apply suction to the hose while holding it horizontally. Completely fill the
hose with wine (no bubbles, if possible). Close the hose clamp at the end closest to the suction. (B)
Lower the end into the empty container, and open the clamp. Rack again in 4-6 weeks and once more in
4-6 weeks time. (If you have only one carboy you must first rack the wine into the sanitized primary
fermentor, clean and sanitize the carboy, then re-rack the wine back into the carboy.)
If you wish to sweeten the wine at bottling time, add 1/2 tsp. Potasium Sorbate and 1/16 tsp. potassium
metabisulfite per gallon of wine to prevent renewed fermentation in the bottle, and use a syrup made of 2
cups sugar per 1 cup water. Bring to a boil and continue boiling just till the mixture miraculously clears.
Cool completely and sweeten the wine to your taste
STEP 8: Degassing
Degassing will rid your wine from excess CO2.
Degass the wine as follows:
Use vacuum pump to degass.
Check your wine for residual CO2 as follows:
Use a wine thief to place about 200ml of wine in a 375ml clear wine bottle.
Cover the mouth of the bottle with your thumb and shake vigorously.
If the wine foams substantially, further degassing is warranted.
Splash Rack the wine into a sanitized carboy into which 1/4 tsp of potassium metabisulfite has been
added. Check fluid level in airlock and reattach to carboy.
NOTE: Lengthy bulk aging will also rid the wine of excess CO2.
STEP 9: Fining
Keep wine as cool as possible before bottling (40o - 50oF is ideal) this will allow acid to drop out in the
form if ice crystals.
Fining is a procedure to clear the "solid particles" that may be suspended in your wine. There are different
fining products available at your local brewing and wine supply house. Follow the directions for whichever
one you use, but be sure to wait at least 7 days after fining to bottle. Fining your wine does remove some
flavor but is probably worth doing for most homemade wines. If you get a little settlings in your wine
during aging, you can always rack again or transfer to a different bottle before giving as a gift or serving.
STEP 10: Preparation for Bottling
To add a finished polish to your wine you can filter it with a mini jet filter (Buno Vino). Allow another
month to pass after filtering to ensure there is no more sediment.
When the wine appears clear and stable (hydrometer reading should be at or below 0), the wine is ready
for bottling.
Bottle the wine and age it for 6-12 months. The longer the better, if you can wait.