JITTERY DRIVESHAFT Hi Allan, my trusty Hilux has taken me to some pretty amazing places over the years, but recently it’s developed a rather nasty vibration when it’s in 4WD. It’s an old diesel ’91 model with a solid, leaf-sprung front axle. I noticed the vibration on my last trip out to Coffs, I can feel it in low range, but it seems to get worse in high range. I’ve been told that there’s a double Cardin joint in the front tailshaft and it could be the source of my problems. But after hearing so many different opinions, I wanted to know if there is a way I can check the actual joint before dipping my hand in pocket to replace it if it’s not the problem? I’ve checked normal unis before and not sure about this type of joint as it seems to have a link between the two unis on the Cardin joint, do you have any pointers. Brian Cleveland, Sawtell, NSW Brian, the double-Cardin joint is held in line with a self-aligning bearing, that’s the link you can see between the two unis. In raised vehicle applications, the increased tailshaft angles can cause these can fail rapidly. An ordinary universal joint type tailshaft can be used if a lift kit is fitted. A quick check you can do on the tailshaft is to see if the Cardin joint can be lifted out of alignment, as this indicates a faulty central-locating bearing. Good luck! – Allan MYSTERY LEAK ASK ALLAN! If you’ve seen my DVD segments, you’ll know that I just can’t help but get to the bottom of your mechanical problems. If you’re having some trouble with your 4WD, simply visit www.4wdaction.com.au/ask-allan to submit your question and I’ll get right onto the case for you. Allan Gray Terrain Tamer G’day Allan, I have a 1996 diesel LandCruiser, non-turbo. It appears to have an oil leak, I think, near the injectors and I have no idea where the oil is coming from. It’s coming from the base of the injectors where they screw into the block and from around the inlet manifold. I’ve attached a couple of photos for you to look at where the oil is sitting on the block. I hope you’re going to tell me it’s nothing to worry about. It’s serviced regularly and the vehicle runs fine. There is 242,000km on the clock. What would be causing the oil leak in this area? Charlie Boomer Giru, QLD down and run the engine with a strong light and mirror handy, if you do this first, I think you’ll find exactly where the leak is coming from. Just keep wiping it down or ideally clean it away with compressed air. We use compressed air in the workshop so we can blow the leak away over and over to pin-point where the source of the leak is. But I think that you’ll find that an injector service is on the cards. Thanks. – Allan Charlie, have you changed the injectors? Remember, at 100,000km the injectors would have pulsed millions of times and they’re bound to be worn out. The reason I say this is you don’t mention when the injectors have been changed. If you wash the area 10 010-011 ASK ALLAN.indd 10 22/09/11 9:12 AM EXPERT ADVICE Ask Allan SERVICE TIME Hi Allan, I recently purchased a GQ Patrol Ute with a TD42. It didn’t come with any service history, but I know it’s done between 310,000km and 380,000km. It’s not in bad shape, but it does have a few loose ends that seem to be from someone who has tried to modify things, but didn’t know what they were doing. So, I want to make sure it’s al l good for the next 300,000km. Would you advise an engine oil flush and cooling system flush to start with? The big diesel is also a little hard to start first thing in the morning and a friend told me that it has an air leak in the fuel system coming from the primer? What’s the best way to check this out? I really want this truck to be reliable and get it into tip top condition before I start any trips I have planned. Pete Nagle, Via email Peter, be careful when using flushes. Firstly, it’s difficult to ensure with a cooling system service that all the air is excluded on refill. There are numerous ways of bleeding the system, but many engines have been damaged due to air being still entrapped in the cooling system. With engine oil flushing, I’m not sure about it with that kind of kilometres on the clock? I’d just change the oil every 5,000km, with a filter of course. Flushing the oil can be a bit of a worry in a very few cases, particularly with high mileage. I’d also fit new or reconditioned injectors every 100,000km and check glow plugs. My Terrain Tamer DVDs cover all these replacement items so you can see how to do it yourself. Good to hear from you. – Allan OIL LIGHT GRIEF Hi Allan, I drive a ’96 model, 80 Series ’Cruiser DX. I’ve been 4WDing for about five years now and I’ve managed to see some pretty amazing places. I have a few of the usual touring accessories to make the old girl a little more capable off-road. Recently my 80 Series has been giving me some grief. It’s been bringing on the low oil level light on the dash when I’m out driving. It comes on first thing in the morning, mainly if I sit on the freeway on my way to work on a constant and steady speed, as soon as the engine’s back to idle, it goes off. The funny thing is the oil pressure seems to be reading correctly when the low oil level light comes on. So far I have no idea why it’s doing this? I’d love to run the 80 up to the Cape, as well as a trip through the centre of Oz someday, but I really want to sort this problem out before I’d feel comfortable to head away. I fear that I might be doing damage to my engine even just driving around town. Is this a simple fix or is something terminal wrong? Marco Crescenzi Atwell, WA Marco, this one is a relatively common problem on the LandCruiser, and you’ll be happy to know it’s a simple fix. You’ve got a low oil level float switch on right-hand side of the sump. If you disconnect the wiring and short the wires out it should rectify the problem. If it does, it proves the sensor has packed it in. Simply pick yourself up a new sensor, screw it in and that’s all there is to it. Good luck. - Allan 11 010-011 ASK ALLAN.indd 11 22/09/11 9:12 AM
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