property prospectus Rome Architecture Esquilino is named after Esquiline Hill on which it stands, one of the seven famous hills in Rome. When the capital of Italy moved to Rome from Florence in 1871, Umberto I built the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and it’s why the surrounding buildings on the square are built in a style more typical to northern regions of Italy. Large porticos shield the sidewalk from the rain and allow Chinese merchants a good space to sell their wares. Upstairs, grand apartments have been scooped up by artists, directors and filmmakers. Although Esquilino does not yet have many very hip or high-end shops or restaurants, the mix is still very interesting here. Local architects are renovating rooftop apartments and commercials are filmed on the streets, adding to the buzz. Esquilino Rome ——— Preface Hidden in the heart of the city, Rome’s most multicultural neighbourhood is attracting creatives to its vibrant and intrigueladen streets. Writer Ann Marie Gardner Photographer Rorandelli Rocco 01 The Esquilino neighbourhood is a bit of an island. Although it is located in the centre of Rome – walking distance from the Colosseum and south of the Central Railway Terminal – the multi-ethnic neighbourhood has managed to remain somewhat of a secret. Fashion designer Sergio Zambon, who has lived here for 15 years, describes Esquilino’s vibe as “NY’s West Village with a touch of Alphabet City”. Here Bangladesh and Chinese immigrants live alongside a growing African and Middle Eastern community, as well as international artists, writers, film directors and traditional Italian families. Architect Annalisa Bellettati bought here 10 years ago because it was affordable. “Esquilino is a smart place to live,” says Bellettati. “I lived in Monti Square but here I could buy a bigger house for the same price.The international community is very attracted to this area.” Granted, the neighbourhood is gritty and there is lots of intrigue around the empty clothing and jewellery shops rumored to be fronts for the Chinese mob. But you can also find Indian restaurants, kebab shops, great pizza and coffee bars.There is an open-air cinema in the main Piazza Vittoria in summer and an open air market where Indian women in saris, Italian nuns and Chinese families shop for eastern spices and Italian foods. All the locals agree: Esquilino is a unique side of Rome. — (M) Arrivals Flights to Rome From London BA, nine daily From New York Alitalia and Delta, daily direct flights From Tokyo Alitalia, daily from Narita 02 A B C D E F G Lorem ipsum Lorem ipsum Lorem ipsum Lorem ipsum Lorem ipsum Lorem ipsum Lorem ipsum 03 146 — issue 40 01 Some of the more grand architecture in Esquilino 02 Ilaria Frecchia’s house 03 Department store, Magazzini allo Statuto 04 The spice market in Piazza Vittorio 05 The library at Pontificia University Lateranense 06 A leafy corner of Esquilino 07 Panella bakery Shop Motel Salieri Via Giovanni Lanza 162 +39 06 4898 9966 Artist gallery and men’s shop selling Raf Simons and Comme des Garçons alongside Roman designers FQR and Japanese Visvim. It’s called a motel because clothing and art are considered the guests. A. Guidi Via Principe Eugenio 6-8 +39 06 734 3117 Armando Guidi sells socks, men’s shirts and even bras, like his grandfather who started the shop in 1929. The interior of the shop hasn’t changed a bit and Signor Guidi still uses the wrapping paper with original graphics from 1929. 04 Mille Records Via Merulana 91 PHONE NUMBER? A tiny historic record shop for music lovers. Everything from old disco records to jazz and classical from New York in the 1950s and 1960s. Baldieri Lighting Piazza Iside 5 +39 06 7047 6478 This family-run lighting shop carries FLOS and Artemide among many other Italian designers. Mas Via dello Statuto 11 +39 06 446 8078 Fascinating assortment of cheap clothes, pillows and shoes. Designers and artists come here for inspiration. 05 with a one-metre long mortadella and a fabulous selection of pastas, olive oils, jams spices, cheeses and breads from every region of Italy. Services Pool at Radisson Blu es. Hotel Via Filippo Turati 171 +39 06 444 841 In summer, locals swim in the rooftop pool. Beat Garage Via Giovanni Lanza 115 +39 06 488 0038 Sixty-two-year-old Guiseppe Divito can fix any old motorbike or scooter. He also collects everything connected to 1960s music so his garage is a museum for old radios, guitars and he changes/rearranges his collection regularly. Tintoria Arcobaleno Di Bernardi Franca Largo Brancaccio 92 +39 66 487 3174 A friendly, top-notch corner dry cleaners and laundry. Pontificia University Lateranense Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, Citta Del Vaticano +39 06 98 86 401 A beautiful new modern library in San Giovanni square at the Vatican University. It is interesting to see priests and nuns from all over the world studying in this modern environment. Panella Via Merulana 54-55 +39 06 487 2344 Beautiful and pricey gourmet bakery, pasticceria and shop 06 07 issue 40 — 147 property prospectus Rome 01 02 03 04 Sonia Hang Zhou Panella Roscioli bakery Dog-walkers in the park at Piazza Vittorio 05 A. Guidi 06 Radisson Blu es. Hotel 07 Elly Nagaoka’s house Property guide Buying a new apartment €750,000 to €850,000 euro for a two-bedroom 85 to 90 sq m with terrace 01 Buying an old apartment Average price for a basic one bedroom in Esquilino is €380 to €420 per sq m 02 03 Eat + Drink Hang Zhou da Sonia Via Principe Eugenio 82 +39 06 487 2732 The daughter of Chairman Mao’s mistress, Sonia is Esquilino’s most famous Chinese restaurant owner. It is considered the best Chinese in Rome if you can stomach the celebrity photos and tribute to the Chairman covering the walls. Bar Pasticceria D’Amore Snc Di Iannella Vittoria C, Via dello Statuto 37 +39 06 4436 3205 A neighbourhood institution, Bar D’Amore’s Marco is the keeper of Esquilino’s secrets. He has been serving coffee here for 16 years and knows everyone and everything. Regoli Via dello Statuto 60 +39 06 487 2812 Regoli pastry shop is most famous for chocolate torta della nonna and a giant mille feuille in the shape of a star. Roscioli Via Buonarroti 48 +39 06 446 714 Bakery serving homemade food and the best pizza in the neighbourhood. Samir 04 05 and Antonietta from Puglia are the colorful characters behind the counter. Family owned since 1970. Stay Radisson Blu es. Hotel Via Filippo Turati 171 +39 06 444 841 The es. Hotel is the only choice in Esquilino. Newly designed and built over Roman ruins, the rooms at the back abut the train terminal and are quite loud but the place is booked solid year round. The rooftop bar is fantastic in three seasons and the pool is a scene in summer. G. Fassi Via Principe Eugenio 67 +39 06 446 4740 Oldest ice cream factory in Italy and a bargain. Three huge scoops for €1.50 and a whack of fresh whipped cream on the top. People wait in line outside the shop to open everyday at noon. Trattoria Monti Via di San Vito 13 +39 06 446 6573 Locals’ favourite restaurant for homemade pasta and the house specialty – tortino – a savoury parmigiano flan that is surprisingly delicious. 07 148 — issue 40 06 The process Foreigners buying property in Rome must ask for the historic record of the house from the agent and also from the notary of the client. This paperwork with specifics about when the roof or electric was fixed or if it needs a renovation is not required by law. New property laws require the apartment layout to agree with the map on file at city hall. Often changes are not registered with city hall and if not, it erases the buying contract and the buyer will be fined and have to pay for the maps to be changed (typically €1,000 fine and €1,500 for lawyers to complete paperwork). 01 02 Residents Notary fees: 3 per cent Agent’s fee: 6 per cent Estate agent: L’Agenzia Immobiliare di Gabriella Giampietro + 39 06 704 54772 Annalisa Bellettati 39, architect “My favourite place in Esquilino is the spice market. I’m addicted to Indian food and here you can find everything. In my building there are Iranians working for the UN and old Italian families who moved here when the building was first built in the 1930s.” 04 Elly Nagaoka 41, artist “The neighbourhood has cleaned up a lot since I moved here 15 years ago. It’s a good location and close to the station – it takes five minutes to get to the airport. Italy is so provincial from a food point of view but it’s the one part of Rome to get international food.” Sergio Zambon 44 fashion designer “Esquilino is the first real big city area of Rome. It’s close 05 03 to the central station so it feels very downtown. It’s central but still hidden, with a mix of Italian bourgeois, ethnic and cosmopolitan.” Paolo Tamburella 36, artist “I moved here three years ago from Brooklyn. Esquilino is not like Rome; it attracts artists and filmmakers and is the only area with a mix of other cultures. It’s less expensive than NY but still expensive for Rome.” Ilaria Frecchia 50, filmmaker “I moved here 10 years ago from New York. I moved here to find a place with no such specific identity. It’s a fascist neighbourhood combined with Chinese mafia, the art world and the next generation of filmmakers. Here, I found a mix that is not the obvious. It’s not just a beautiful neighbourhood; it’s a tough neighbourhood.” 06 07 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 Sergio Zambon Annalisa Bellettati Andrea Ricci Poalo Tamburella Annalisa Bellettati’s home Renata di Leone, film make-up artist Annalisa Bellettati’s bathroom Annalisa Bellettati’s living room 08 issue 40 — 149
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