Esquilino Arrivals Architecture

property prospectus
Esquilino is named after
Esquiline Hill on which it
stands, one of the seven
famous hills in Rome. When
the capital of Italy moved to
Rome from Florence in
1871, Umberto I built the
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
and it’s why the surrounding
buildings on the square are
built in a style more typical
to northern regions of Italy.
Large porticos shield the
sidewalk from the rain and
allow Chinese merchants
a good space to sell their
wares. Upstairs, grand
apartments have been
scooped up by artists,
directors and filmmakers.
Although Esquilino
does not yet have many
very hip or high-end shops
or restaurants, the mix is still
very interesting here. Local
architects are renovating
rooftop apartments and
commercials are filmed
on the streets, adding to
the buzz.
Hidden in the heart of
the city, Rome’s most
multicultural neighbourhood
is attracting creatives to
its vibrant and intrigueladen streets.
Ann Marie Gardner
Rorandelli Rocco
The Esquilino neighbourhood is a bit of
an island. Although it is located in the
centre of Rome – walking distance from
the Colosseum and south of the Central
Railway Terminal – the multi-ethnic
neighbourhood has managed to remain
somewhat of a secret. Fashion designer
Sergio Zambon, who has lived here for 15
years, describes Esquilino’s vibe as “NY’s
West Village with a touch of Alphabet
City”. Here Bangladesh and Chinese immigrants live alongside a growing African
and Middle Eastern community, as well as
international artists, writers, film directors
and traditional Italian families.
Architect Annalisa Bellettati bought
here 10 years ago because it was affordable. “Esquilino is a smart place to live,”
says Bellettati. “I lived in Monti Square
but here I could buy a bigger house for the
same price.The international community
is very attracted to this area.” Granted, the
neighbourhood is gritty and there is lots of
intrigue around the empty clothing and
jewellery shops rumored to be fronts for
the Chinese mob. But you can also find
Indian restaurants, kebab shops, great
pizza and coffee bars.There is an open-air
cinema in the main Piazza Vittoria in
summer and an open air market where
Indian women in saris, Italian nuns and
Chinese families shop for eastern spices
and Italian foods. All the locals agree: Esquilino is a unique side of Rome. — (M)
Flights to Rome
From London
BA, nine daily
From New York
Alitalia and Delta, daily
direct flights
From Tokyo
Alitalia, daily from Narita
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146 — issue 40
01 Some of the more grand
architecture in Esquilino
02 Ilaria Frecchia’s house
03 Department store,
Magazzini allo Statuto
04 The spice market in
Piazza Vittorio
05 The library at Pontificia
University Lateranense
06 A leafy corner of
07 Panella bakery
Motel Salieri
Via Giovanni Lanza 162
+39 06 4898 9966
Artist gallery and men’s
shop selling Raf Simons and
Comme des Garçons
alongside Roman designers
FQR and Japanese Visvim.
It’s called a motel because
clothing and art are
considered the guests.
A. Guidi
Via Principe Eugenio 6-8
+39 06 734 3117
Armando Guidi sells socks,
men’s shirts and even bras,
like his grandfather who
started the shop in 1929.
The interior of the shop
hasn’t changed a bit and
Signor Guidi still uses the
wrapping paper with original
graphics from 1929.
Mille Records
Via Merulana 91
A tiny historic record shop
for music lovers. Everything
from old disco records to
jazz and classical from New
York in the 1950s and 1960s.
Baldieri Lighting
Piazza Iside 5
+39 06 7047 6478
This family-run lighting
shop carries FLOS and
Artemide among many
other Italian designers.
Via dello Statuto 11
+39 06 446 8078
Fascinating assortment of
cheap clothes, pillows and
shoes. Designers and artists
come here for inspiration.
with a one-metre long
mortadella and a fabulous
selection of pastas, olive
oils, jams spices, cheeses
and breads from every
region of Italy.
Pool at Radisson
Blu es. Hotel
Via Filippo Turati 171
+39 06 444 841
In summer, locals swim in
the rooftop pool.
Beat Garage
Via Giovanni Lanza 115
+39 06 488 0038
Guiseppe Divito can fix any
old motorbike or scooter. He
also collects everything
connected to 1960s music
so his garage is a museum
for old radios, guitars and
he changes/rearranges his
collection regularly.
Tintoria Arcobaleno Di
Bernardi Franca
Largo Brancaccio 92
+39 66 487 3174
A friendly, top-notch corner
dry cleaners and laundry.
Pontificia University
Piazza San Giovanni in
Laterano, Citta Del Vaticano
+39 06 98 86 401
A beautiful new modern
library in San Giovanni
square at the Vatican
University. It is interesting to
see priests and nuns from
all over the world studying
in this modern environment.
Via Merulana 54-55
+39 06 487 2344
Beautiful and pricey gourmet
bakery, pasticceria and shop
issue 40 — 147
property prospectus
Sonia Hang Zhou
Roscioli bakery
Dog-walkers in the park
at Piazza Vittorio
05 A. Guidi
06 Radisson Blu es. Hotel
07 Elly Nagaoka’s house
Property guide
Buying a new apartment
€750,000 to €850,000 euro
for a two-bedroom 85 to 90
sq m with terrace
Buying an old apartment
Average price for a basic
one bedroom in Esquilino is
€380 to €420 per sq m
Eat + Drink
Hang Zhou da Sonia
Via Principe Eugenio 82
+39 06 487 2732
The daughter of Chairman
Mao’s mistress, Sonia is
Esquilino’s most famous
Chinese restaurant owner.
It is considered the best
Chinese in Rome if you can
stomach the celebrity photos
and tribute to the Chairman
covering the walls.
Bar Pasticceria D’Amore
Snc Di Iannella Vittoria C,
Via dello Statuto 37
+39 06 4436 3205
A neighbourhood institution,
Bar D’Amore’s Marco is the
keeper of Esquilino’s secrets.
He has been serving coffee
here for 16 years and knows
everyone and everything.
Via dello Statuto 60
+39 06 487 2812
Regoli pastry shop is most
famous for chocolate torta
della nonna and a giant mille
feuille in the shape of a star.
Via Buonarroti 48
+39 06 446 714
Bakery serving homemade
food and the best pizza in
the neighbourhood. Samir
and Antonietta from Puglia
are the colorful characters
behind the counter. Family
owned since 1970.
Radisson Blu es. Hotel
Via Filippo Turati 171
+39 06 444 841
The es. Hotel is the only
choice in Esquilino. Newly
designed and built over
Roman ruins, the rooms at
the back abut the train
terminal and are quite loud
but the place is booked
solid year round. The
rooftop bar is fantastic in
three seasons and the pool
is a scene in summer.
G. Fassi
Via Principe Eugenio 67
+39 06 446 4740
Oldest ice cream factory in
Italy and a bargain. Three
huge scoops for €1.50 and
a whack of fresh whipped
cream on the top. People
wait in line outside the shop
to open everyday at noon.
Trattoria Monti
Via di San Vito 13
+39 06 446 6573
Locals’ favourite restaurant
for homemade pasta and
the house specialty – tortino
– a savoury parmigiano flan
that is surprisingly delicious.
148 — issue 40
The process
Foreigners buying property in Rome must
ask for the historic record of the house from
the agent and also from the notary of the
client. This paperwork with specifics about
when the roof or electric was fixed or if it
needs a renovation is not required by law.
New property laws require the
apartment layout to agree with the map
on file at city hall. Often changes are not
registered with city hall and if not, it erases
the buying contract and the buyer will be
fined and have to pay for the maps to be
changed (typically €1,000 fine and €1,500
for lawyers to complete paperwork).
Notary fees: 3 per cent
Agent’s fee: 6 per cent
Estate agent: L’Agenzia Immobiliare di
Gabriella Giampietro
+ 39 06 704 54772
Annalisa Bellettati
39, architect
“My favourite place in
Esquilino is the spice
market. I’m addicted to
Indian food and here you
can find everything. In my
building there are Iranians
working for the UN and old
Italian families who moved
here when the building was
first built in the 1930s.”
Elly Nagaoka
41, artist
“The neighbourhood has
cleaned up a lot since
I moved here 15 years ago.
It’s a good location and
close to the station – it takes
five minutes to get to the
airport. Italy is so provincial
from a food point of view
but it’s the one part of Rome
to get international food.”
Sergio Zambon
44 fashion designer
“Esquilino is the first real big
city area of Rome. It’s close
to the central station so it
feels very downtown. It’s
central but still hidden, with
a mix of Italian bourgeois,
ethnic and cosmopolitan.”
Paolo Tamburella
36, artist
“I moved here three years
ago from Brooklyn. Esquilino
is not like Rome; it attracts
artists and filmmakers and
is the only area with a mix
of other cultures. It’s less
expensive than NY but still
expensive for Rome.”
Ilaria Frecchia
50, filmmaker
“I moved here 10 years
ago from New York. I moved
here to find a place with
no such specific identity.
It’s a fascist neighbourhood
combined with Chinese
mafia, the art world and
the next generation of
filmmakers. Here, I found
a mix that is not the
obvious. It’s not just a
beautiful neighbourhood;
it’s a tough neighbourhood.”
Sergio Zambon
Annalisa Bellettati
Andrea Ricci
Poalo Tamburella
Annalisa Bellettati’s home
Renata di Leone, film make-up artist
Annalisa Bellettati’s bathroom
Annalisa Bellettati’s living room
issue 40 — 149