GIORNATA MAPIC 2014 Milano, 15 aprile PROGRAMMA DI INTERNAZIONALIZZAZIONE: PERCORSO GUIDATO FRA DATI DI MERCATO UE E FOCUS MERCATO RUSSO Vincenzo Rialdi Amministratore Delegato e Direttore Tecnico Vevy Europe Presidente Mapic ‐ EFfCI Board Member L’INDUSTRIA DELLA COSMETICA USA 59.000 (40) mll € JAPAN 30.000 (30) mll € Cosmetica europea settore dinamico e vibrante che rappresenta un terzo del mercato cosmetico globale. 2/22 Fonte: Cosmetics Europe EU 27* 72.000 (71) mll € Vincenzo Rialdi IL MERCATO COSMETICO EUROPEO 2008 2009 2010 2011 1 1 1 1 = 2 2 2 2 = 4 3 4 4 3 4 3 3 5 5 5 5 = 6 6 6 6 = 7 7 7 7 = 12 9 8 10 8 8 9 8 9 11 10 9 13 13 11 11 = 10 12 12 12 = 14 14 13 13 = 15 15 15 14 = 18 18 16 16 17 16 17 17 11 10 14 15 16 17 18 18 = 19 19 19 19 = 20 20 20 20 = 21 21 21 21 = 22 22 22 22 = 23 23 24 24 24 24 23 23 25 25 25 25 = 26 26 26 26 = 3/22 2012 COUNTRY 1 GERMANY 2 FRANCE 3 UNITED KINGDOM 4 ITALY 5 SPAIN 6 NETHERLANDS 7 POLAND 8 SWITZERLAND 9 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG 10 SWEDEN 11 PORTUGAL 12 AUSTRIA 13 NORWAY 14 DENMARK 15 FINLAND 16 ROMANIA 17 GREECE 18 CZECH REPUBLIC 19 HUNGARY 20 IRELAND 21 SLOVAKIA 22 BULGARIA 23 LITHUANIA 24 SLOVENIA 25 LATVIA 26 ESTONIA TOTAL % 17,8 14,5 14,1 13,4 9,4 3,9 3,8 3,0 2,7 2,4 1,8 1,8 1,7 1,4 1,3 1,2 1,2 1,1 0,9 0,9 0,7 0,4 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,1 100,0 PROGR. 2012 RSP 2011 RSP 2010 RSP 2009 RSP 2008 RSP 12‐11 2012 2011 12‐11 % mll € (B) mll € (B) mll € (B) mll € (B) mll € (B) % SMEs SMEs % 17,8 12.851 12.673 12.792 12.629 12.604 1,40 399 318 2,0 32,2 10.455 10.211 10.725 10.517 10.746 2,39 618 691 ‐1,8 46,3 10.191 9.628 9.261 9.108 9.072 5,85 305 295 0,2 59,7 9.655 9.834 9.653 8.855 9.142 ‐1,82 686 723 ‐0,9 69,0 6.772 7.037 7.134 4.502 7.781 ‐3,77 409 400 0,2 73,0 2.837 2.804 2.783 2.779 2.719 1,18 95 92 0,1 76,8 2.761 2.677 2.754 2.361 2.632 3,14 344 378 ‐0,8 79,8 2.165 1.625 1.982 1.768 1.333 33,23 146 146 0,0 82,5 1.960 1.918 1.881 1.850 1.810 2,19 69 77 ‐0,2 84,9 1.736 1.793 1.595 1.299 1.594 ‐3,18 184 169 0,4 86,7 1.313 1.487 1.539 1.292 1.125 ‐11,70 65 63 0,0 88,5 1.274 1.325 1.361 1.233 1.391 ‐3,85 77 79 0,0 90,2 1.264 1.224 1.189 1.066 1.110 3,27 27 30 ‐0,1 91,7 1.047 1.069 967 967 1.026 ‐2,06 33 34 0,0 92,9 904 898 929 808 794 0,67 16 20 ‐0,1 94,1 893 843 879 848 915 5,93 64 63 0,0 95,3 846 931 1.045 1.375 1.380 ‐9,13 81 98 ‐0,4 96,4 772 784 875 835 949 ‐1,53 124 126 0,0 97,3 677 659 684 651 705 2,73 125 117 0,2 98,2 656 653 676 581 611 0,46 10 9 0,0 98,9 488 341 441 431 486 43,11 22 22 0,0 99,3 279 264 268 256 243 5,68 78 68 0,2 99,5 156 144 147 197 215 8,33 5 5 0,0 99,7 155 152 163 164 172 1,97 23 24 0,0 99,9 114 88 88 91 108 29,55 23 18 0,1 100,0 91 85 87 88 94 7,06 5 1 0,1 72.312 71.147 71.898 66.551 70.757 1,64 4.033 4.066 ‐0,81 Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic Vincenzo Rialdi EXPORT INTRA/EXTRA EU27 2012 trn. pos 2 1 3 4 5 7 9 6 20 18 10 12 21 14 24 16 19 17 11 23 22 15 25 26 8 13 4/22 2012 COUNTRY 1 FRANCE 2 GERMANY 3 UNITED KINGDOM 4 ITALY 5 SPAIN 6 POLAND 7 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG 8 NETHERLANDS 9 IRELAND 10 CZECH REPUBLIC 11 SWEDEN 12 AUSTRIA 13 SLOVAKIA 14 DENMARK 15 SLOVENIA 16 ROMANIA 17 HUNGARY 18 GREECE 19 PORTUGAL 20 LITHUANIA 21 BULGARIA 22 FINLAND 23 LATVIA 24 ESTONIA SWITZERLAND NORWAY TOTAL 2012 RSP TOT EXP EU27 EXP INT UE27 EXP INT EXP EXT UE27 EXP EXT 2012 mll € % 2012 mll € % mll € (B) 2012 mll € 10.455 10.446 5.060 48,4 5.386 51,6 12.851 6.762 3.716 55,0 3.046 45,0 10.191 3.470 2.281 65,7 1.189 34,3 9.655 2.779 1.516 54,6 1.263 45,4 6.772 2.222 1.032 46,4 1.190 53,6 2.761 2.028 1.223 60,3 805 39,7 1.960 1.808 1.216 67,3 592 32,7 2.837 1.248 856 68,6 392 31,4 656 514 315 61,2 199 38,8 772 444 321 72,3 123 27,7 1.736 377 210 55,7 167 44,3 1.274 373 290 77,8 83 22,2 488 301 291 96,9 9 3,1 1.047 297 195 65,7 102 34,3 155 270 161 59,7 109 40,3 893 227 59 26,1 168 73,9 677 201 118 59,0 82 41,0 846 148 107 72,2 41 27,8 1.313 123 89 72,4 34 27,6 156 85 21 24,1 65 75,9 279 74 39 52,2 36 47,8 904 61 24 38,8 37 61,2 114 58 24 42,1 33 57,9 91 29 16 55,6 13 44,4 2.165 1.264 72.312 34.343 19.180 15.163 Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic EXP EXT UE27 2011 mll € 5.028 2.794 1.020 1.154 1.020 736 976 315 175 108 160 75 8 107 119 123 66 32 26 51 31 32 29 8 14.193 Vincenzo Rialdi LA SPESA PRO CAPITE 2010 2 1 3 4 5 7 6 10 8 12 11 9 13 14 15 18 19 16 17 20 22 21 25 23 24 26 5/22 2011 2 1 4 3 5 7 6 11 10 8 12 9 14 13 15 22 18 16 17 19 21 20 24 23 25 26 = = = = = 2012 COUNTRY 1 SWITZERLAND 2 NORWAY 3 DENMARK 4 SWEDEN 5 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG 6 NETHERLANDS 7 FINLAND 8 UNITED KINGDOM 9 FRANCE 10 ITALY 11 GERMANY 12 AUSTRIA 13 IRELAND 14 SPAIN 15 PORTUGAL 16 SLOVAKIA 17 SLOVENIA 18 GREECE 19 CZECH REPUBLIC 20 POLAND 21 ESTONIA 22 HUNGARY 23 LATVIA 24 LITHUANIA 25 ROMANIA 26 BULGARIA TOTAL 2012 trn. pos 8 13 14 10 9 6 15 3 2 4 1 12 20 5 11 21 24 17 18 7 26 19 25 23 16 22 2012 RSP PEOPLE PURCHASE PURCHASE PURCHASE 12‐11 mll € (B) unit (2011) 2012 € p.c. 2011 € p.c. 2010 € p.c. € p.c. 2.165 7.858.800 275 207 252 69 1.264 4.623.000 273 265 257 9 1.047 5.475.791 191 195 177 ‐4 1.736 9.082.995 191 197 176 ‐6 1.960 10.782.374 182 178 174 4 2.837 16.645.200 170 168 167 2 904 5.325.587 170 169 174 1 10.191 62.041.708 164 155 156 9 10.455 65.447.374 160 156 164 4 9.655 60.494.632 160 163 153 ‐3 12.851 82.438.000 156 154 155 2 1.274 8.356.707 152 159 163 ‐6 656 4.422.100 148 148 153 1 6.772 46.954.694 144 150 152 ‐6 1.313 11.317.192 116 131 136 ‐15 488 5.389.180 91 63 82 27 155 2.055.942 75 74 79 1 846 11.295.002 75 82 93 ‐8 772 10.467.542 74 75 84 ‐1 2.761 38.073.745 73 70 72 2 91 1.340.122 68 63 65 4 677 10.076.581 67 65 68 2 114 2.267.886 50 39 39 11 156 3.436.561 45 42 43 3 893 22.246.862 40 38 40 2 279 7.973.673 35 33 34 2 72.312 515.889.250 140 138 139 2 Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic Vincenzo Rialdi IL MERCATO DEGLI INGREDIENTI 2012 RSP 2012 COUNTRY mll € (B) 1 GERMANY 12.851 2 FRANCE 10.455 3 UNITED KINGDOM 10.191 4 ITALY 9.655 5 SPAIN 6.772 6 NETHERLANDS 2.837 7 POLAND 2.761 8 SWITZERLAND 2.165 9 BELGIUM / LUXEMBURG 1.960 10 SWEDEN 1.736 11 PORTUGAL 1.313 12 AUSTRIA 1.274 13 NORWAY 1.264 14 DENMARK 1.047 15 FINLAND 904 16 ROMANIA 893 17 GREECE 846 18 CZECH REPUBLIC 772 19 HUNGARY 677 20 IRELAND 656 21 SLOVAKIA 488 22 BULGARIA 279 23 LITHUANIA 156 24 SLOVENIA 155 25 LATVIA 114 26 ESTONIA 91 TOTAL 72.312 6/22 MIN 10% 1.285 1.046 1.019 966 677 284 276 217 196 174 131 127 126 105 90 89 85 77 68 66 49 28 16 16 11 9 7.231 Fonte: Cosmetics Europe – Elaborazione dati: Mapic AVG 15% 1.928 1.568 1.529 1.448 1.016 426 414 325 294 260 197 191 190 157 136 134 127 116 102 98 73 42 23 23 17 14 10.847 MAX 20% 2.570 2.091 2.038 1.931 1.354 567 552 433 392 347 263 255 253 209 181 179 169 154 135 131 98 56 31 31 23 18 14.462 Vincenzo Rialdi LA COMPOSIZIONE DEI CONSUMI SETTORE 7/22 % Cura della pelle 25,2 % Igiene‐Cura personale 25,4 % Cura dei capelli 21,3 % Profumeria 15,1 % Decorativa 13,0 % Fonte: Cosmetics Europe Vincenzo Rialdi GLI ADDETTI Impiegati Diretti 8/22 200,000 (200,000) Impiegati Indiretti 1,300,000 (1,500,000) Personale Tecnico Total 1,500,000 (1,700,000) Studenti Life Science 500,000 Impiegati 975,000 Fonte: Cosmetics Europe 25,000 Vincenzo Rialdi IL MOTORE DEL SETTORE Innovazione linfa vitale dell’industria cosmetica. Ogni anno un quarto dei prodotti cosmetici approvato e lanciato ex novo sul mercato per incontrare le aspettative di milioni di consumatori. 9/22 Fonte: Cosmetics Europe Vincenzo Rialdi COSMETIC MARKET INVESTIGATION B R I C S R U N H TH A S D I A S S I N F I I A A R L A I C A WORLD COSMETIC MARKET 310 bll € 2010 340-350 bll € 2011 (E) Other 15% Russia 3% China 6% Brazil 9% Japan 9% EU (27 countries), Norway, Switzerland 23% USA 12% Asia (excl. Japan, China) 23% 11/22 Source: RBC Research Vincenzo Rialdi RUSSIAN COSMETIC MARKET ‐ VALUE IN € 14,0 12,0 10,0 8,0 10,8 11,1 11,0 2011 2012 E 2013 F 11,6 12,5 9,0 7,8 6,0 4,0 2,0 0,0 2009 12/22 2010 Source: RBC Research 2014 F 2015 F Vincenzo Rialdi IMPORT VS INTERNAL PRODUCTION 30% Domestic Imported 70% 13/22 Source: RBC Research Vincenzo Rialdi IMPORT TO RUSSIA (2011) Other 23% Spain 2% France 27% Belgium 3% Great Britain 3% China 4% 14/22 USA 7% Germany 13% Italy 8% Source: RBC Research Poland 10% Vincenzo Rialdi MARKET SEGMENTS Perfumery Skin care Colour cosmetics Hair care Bath care Sun care Deodorants Depilation cosmetics Male grooming Other 15/22 Source: RBC Research Vincenzo Rialdi COSMETICS PRODUCERS • About 400+ cosmetic producers • About 320 contract manufacturers + own brand • About 80 own brand only • 10‐12 big manufacturers • Local biggest cosmetic manufacturer: Kalina 16/22 Source: PCAR Vincenzo Rialdi MAIN COSMETICS PRODUCERS Key cosmetic manufacturers in Russia • • • • • • • • • • • L’Oréal* Avon* Kalina (Unilever) Nevskaya Kosmetika Faberlic Arnest Svoboda Vesna Alfa Cosmetics Mezoplast Unikosmetik * Produces some products locally 17/22 Source: RBC Research Vincenzo Rialdi GEOGRAPHIC LOCATIONS 18/22 Source: PCAR Vincenzo Rialdi INGREDIENTS SUPPLIERS • About 20 official ingredients distributors • About 5 official ingredients local producers (SMEs) 19/22 Source: PCAR Vincenzo Rialdi CURRENTLY REQUESTED INGREDIENTS «Natural» claims attractive for consumers Most popular ingredients: • Minerals • Collagen • Herbal components Different targets for Russian comsumers • Elder consumers: preference for products bearing natural claims, containing herbal ingredients • Younger consumers: preference for innovative products, proteins, aminoacids, minerals, UV protection 20/22 Source: RBC Research Vincenzo Rialdi REGULATORY STATUS Customs Union of Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan: Regulatory deed in transition • Since July 2012 • Fully entrance in force by July 2014 Cosmetic Regulation • Harmonization close to EU Cosmetic Regulation • Almost same ingredients lists Ingredients Regulation • No REACh/CLP similar Regulation ongoing • Complete documentation of the producer (TDS/MSDS) • Significant restrictions for Ethanol and derivatives 21/22 Source: PCAR Vincenzo Rialdi REPRESENTATIVES Institution 22/22 Name Position e-mail PCAR Perfumery and Cosmetics Association of Russia Tatiana Puchkova Chairman [email protected] Alexandra Skorobogatova Executive Director [email protected] Studio legale Legalife Massimiliano Ballotta Associate [email protected] Studio legale Carnelutti Pietro Ferrero Associate [email protected] Studio legale IC & Partners Group Mauro Galluzzo Associate [email protected] Camera di Commercio Italo-Russa Marisa Florio Direttore [email protected] ICE Istituto per il Commercio Estero Maurizio Forte Direttore [email protected] Acilio Rizzello Responsabile [email protected] Banco Popolare Maurizio Zucchetti Direttore [email protected] UBI Banca Ferdinando Pelazzo Direttore [email protected] Vincenzo Rialdi
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